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Re: Belly Pan/Oil Change

Baldy
 

At 10:23 PM 9/18/2001 +0000, aberns@... wrote:
Since it sounds like the opinions on the effects of removing the
belly pan are mixed--what are the thoughts on cutting a whole in the
belly pan to allow for easier oil changes? Has anyone done this?
Go here:


Re: Hitch carriers

 

That's good to know. I was hoping to add something like that for our
6-month trip around the U.S. planned for next year[+1?]. We know we
did not want a trailer because the extra wheels come with speed limit
restrictions in some states.

Thanks for the info.
. . . Gary



--- In ev_update@y..., John Waterman <jwwaterman@w...> wrote:
I asked Marty about this and he said that the normal weight
distribution
of front engine vehicles is about 60/40. His point is that the
additional weight (which is maximum 200 lbs and for me probably
closer
to 100) is that having the weight in the back with a somewhat long
moment the weight distribution of the vehicle more closely
approaches
50/50.
John

gself@j... wrote:

I also do weight & Balance calculations when flying ¨C strictly VFR
stuff. I worried about the extra load being placed on the rear
tires. As you know, adding weight behind the rear wheels not only
adds that weight but also moves some of the load from the front
tires
to the rear tires. Each individual EVC tire is being run very
near
their design load limits.

I guess I worry too much. That may be due to the fact that I also
own a Ford Explorer!!!

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Re: Belly Pan/Oil Change

 

While I agree with Don on not removing the pan at all is a bad thing,
I understand the need to be able to do a quick oil change...

Do this, after cutting the "hole", don't throw the "hole" piece
away. Rather, attach a hinge on one side and a catch on the other so
you can open and close the "hole" for those quick oil changes.

At least once a year, you ought to pull the pan and check everything.

Jerry



--- In ev_update@y..., aberns@m... wrote:
Since it sounds like the opinions on the effects of removing the
belly pan are mixed--what are the thoughts on cutting a whole in
the
belly pan to allow for easier oil changes? Has anyone done this?


Re: Maaco or Earl Scheib

Don & Karin Thompson
 

----- Original Message -----
From: <carlton_john@...>
To: <ev_update@...>
Sent: Tuesday, September 18, 2001 4:06 PM
Subject: [ev_update] Maaco or Earl Scheib


To the horror of many I imagine, I'm thinking of painting my '93 EV
Weekender at Maaco or Earl Scheib. I'm not keen on its current teal
snip


Please share your experiences or thoughts.

Thanks,
John
I had a Maaco job done on my "93 and it was a BIG waste of money. In
retrospect, I should have paid a good body shop to work on the seam rust and
NOT to change colors.

Don Thompson

ex '93 GL, now '01 MV


Re: Belly Pan/Oil Change

Donald
 

--- In ev_update@y..., aberns@m... wrote:
Since it sounds like the opinions on the effects of removing the
belly pan are mixed--what are the thoughts on cutting a whole in
the
belly pan to allow for easier oil changes? Has anyone done this?
I have said this before: Its a very bad idea.

And it has nothing to do with cooling.

The only time anyone gets to see your engine/transmission is when the
cover is off during an oil change. If you have cut a hole the cover
does not to be removed and no one gets to inspect anything on the
engine. Untill it breaks or leaks.

There are lots of coolant hoses and fuel lines and rubber boots that
you can get a good look at while the oil is draining.


Re: Belly Pan/Oil Change

 

--- In ev_update@y..., aberns@m... wrote:
Since it sounds like the opinions on the effects of removing the
belly pan are mixed--what are the thoughts on cutting a whole in
the
belly pan to allow for easier oil changes? Has anyone done this?
I had a mechanic cut an access opening on my 95 EVC, then the same
procedure on my 97 EVC.
Now, my 2001 EVC comes with an access opening precut - almost exactly
as my old 97 EVC.

Kunio


Belly Pan/Oil Change

 

Since it sounds like the opinions on the effects of removing the
belly pan are mixed--what are the thoughts on cutting a whole in the
belly pan to allow for easier oil changes? Has anyone done this?


Re: Belly pan

Donald Hector
 

i've got 3 belly pans stacked up in the backyard !

don

-----Original Message-----
From: prousseau@... <prousseau@...>
To: ev_update@... <ev_update@...>
Date: Tuesday, September 18, 2001 4:54 PM
Subject: [ev_update] Re: Belly pan


While I'm posting, here's another 2 cents. I hate removing the belly
pan and hate the fact I can't see anything, "watch" and understand
my engine with it on. Having the light come from the bottom allows
for better visual inspect from the top and gives bottom visisbility
as well. I've been running 10000 miles without it, so far so good.

Paul

--- In ev_update@y..., "Michael G. McCarthy" <mgmccarthy@c...> wrote:
All other things being equal it would be better to
operate in the range when the thermostat is just
coming into full open then running just under the fan
temp switch point.
Don,

Even granting that the ideal temp range is a range where the
thermostat is
just opening (and I don't know what evidence there is for that) and
where
the fans accordingly should hardly ever turn on except when running
the A/C,
you are arguing that the hood/grill/bellypan is designed as a
coordinated
system in such a way to steadily evacuate air from the engine
compartment by
pulling it through the radiators such that the fans are NOT really
needed,
thereby keeping temps at an optimized lower-than-what-trips-the-
fans AND
high-enough-to-open-the-thermostat range. I follow your logic, but
I don't
believe the pan is part of a system that sophisticated and
optimized around
keeping the fans off. Why bother? Just run the fans.

I think instead that the pan is more simply part of a system
designed to
minimize the costs associated with weatherproofing and protecting
vulnerable
underhood components, and that's very important in highly
electronic cars
with lots of sensors, wiring and fittings. Likewise, costs are
reduced
because the pan forms a physical shield that protects components,
wiring and
plumbing thereby eliminating the need to engineer all those things
out of
harm's way, or make tem impact resistant. Is the pan also
engineered to be
part of a venturi-style cooling system that's optimize for an
idealized temp
range lower than the temp range that trips the fans? I highly
doubt it.
Could be, but I just don't think so.


----------
From: "Donald " <gibbonsnc@y...>
To: ev_update@y...
Subject: [ev_update] Re: Belly pan
Date: Tue, Sep 18, 2001, 12:30 PM


I was not thinking so much about the fans as I was about the coolant
temps being lower.

Look at it this way: If you have all other things equal (engine
speed, ground/air speed, grade of road) more air thru the radiator
will give you lower coolant temps.

I don't have my book with me right now but there are two temp ranges
here: Fan switch & thermostat setting. Its clear that no matter what
the ground/air speed the fan will come on when the coolant gets hot
enough. But there is a gap between when the thermostat is fully open
and when the fans come on. All other things being equal it would be
better to operate in the range when the thermostat is just coming
into full open then running just under the fan temp switch point.



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Re: install pollen filter on a 93

Christian R.
 

Please forget this message,

----- Original Message -----
From: "Christian R." <drz400@...>
To: <ev_update@...>
Sent: Tuesday, September 18, 2001 2:41 PM
Subject: [ev_update] install pollen filter on a 93


Hello,
Is it possible to install a pollen filter on a 93 eurovan ?

I want to order 2 items (cup holder, plug kit), is shipping now ok to CA
Bay
Area ?

Thanks
christian


____________________________________________________________________________
__
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vos emails depuis un navigateur, en POP3, sur Minitel, sur le WAP...


Re: 93 EV-High mileage potential?

Donald Hector
 

it maybe a good idea for those running their ev's without functioning guages
. to get them fixed so that a
leak doesn't go unnoticed . we blew the block to oil cooler hose last winter
and a working guage may save
an engine from an early demise.

don

-----Original Message-----
From: Sklashley@... <Sklashley@...>
To: ev_update@... <ev_update@...>
Date: Tuesday, September 18, 2001 4:03 PM
Subject: Re: [ev_update] Re: 93 EV-High mileage potential?


It may be possible that the early demise of the EV 5cyl is related to the
failure of cooling system fans or coolant leaks.

These seem to be weak points with the '92 - '95 EVs. If you don't keep
ahead
of the fan resistors, temp sensors and relays, and the T fittings and
coolant
hoses, you could have overheating problems that could easily destroy the
engines.

I have had very good luck with my '93 which is now pushing 160K. I just
replaced the blower motor this past weekend, and the T fitting on the block
for the second time.

Steve Lashley
SKL Enterprises Inc.

636-797-9015
636-789-2127 fax



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Re: Maaco or Earl Scheib

Tomas Jones
 

I still remember the Earl Scheib ads from when I was a kid in So. California

"I'll paint any car for $29.95"

Cheers, Tomas


install pollen filter on a 93

Christian R.
 

Hello,
Is it possible to install a pollen filter on a 93 eurovan ?

I want to order 2 items (cup holder, plug kit), is shipping now ok to CA Bay
Area ?

Thanks
christian


______________________________________________________________________________
ifrance.com, l'email gratuit le plus complet de l'Internet !
vos emails depuis un navigateur, en POP3, sur Minitel, sur le WAP...


Re: Maaco or Earl Scheib

Donald Hector
 

i repainted my Jamaican blue 92 Caribbean camper green instead . changing
body color also requires
painting the inside areas where doors, hood and hatch close . some of these
areas require careful preparation or paint
will flake off . i'd find a shop willing to properly strip and prepare the
vehicle for a decent job . some budget paint jobs
ignor sanding where it's too difficult .
years ago i had my jetta repainted a different color , i found an
independant shop which let me completely strip
and dewax the vehicle myself in his shop before they sanded it . i pulled
everything ,doors , hood, trunk lid , etc so every opening could be
painted the new color , it looked great when done and cost me $1000.00 cdn.
since then i've purchaced a compressor and paint gun and now repaint my own
vehicles.

don

-----Original Message-----
From: carlton_john@... <carlton_john@...>
To: ev_update@... <ev_update@...>
Date: Tuesday, September 18, 2001 4:07 PM
Subject: [ev_update] Maaco or Earl Scheib


To the horror of many I imagine, I'm thinking of painting my '93 EV
Weekender at Maaco or Earl Scheib. I'm not keen on its current teal
blue and am considering a dark blue color.

Has anyone painted their EVs at Maaco or Earl Scheib? And if so,
what were the results? The only reason I'm considering it is $$. A
really good paint job will cost me $3k to $4.5k while I can get a
(hopefully) decent paint job at either Maaco or Earl Scheib for about
$1k.

Please share your experiences or thoughts.

Thanks,
John





Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to


Re: Hitch carriers

John Waterman
 

I asked Marty about this and he said that the normal weight distribution
of front engine vehicles is about 60/40. His point is that the
additional weight (which is maximum 200 lbs and for me probably closer
to 100) is that having the weight in the back with a somewhat long
moment the weight distribution of the vehicle more closely approaches
50/50.
John

gself@... wrote:


I also do weight & Balance calculations when flying strictly VFR
stuff. I worried about the extra load being placed on the rear
tires. As you know, adding weight behind the rear wheels not only
adds that weight but also moves some of the load from the front tires
to the rear tires. Each individual EVC tire is being run very near
their design load limits.

I guess I worry too much. That may be due to the fact that I also
own a Ford Explorer!!!

Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
ADVERTISEMENT
[Image]



Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.


Re: Hitch carriers

 

I also do weight & Balance calculations when flying ¨C strictly VFR
stuff. I worried about the extra load being placed on the rear
tires. As you know, adding weight behind the rear wheels not only
adds that weight but also moves some of the load from the front tires
to the rear tires. Each individual EVC tire is being run very near
their design load limits.

I guess I worry too much. That may be due to the fact that I also
own a Ford Explorer!!!


Re: Belly pan

 

While I'm posting, here's another 2 cents. I hate removing the belly
pan and hate the fact I can't see anything, "watch" and understand
my engine with it on. Having the light come from the bottom allows
for better visual inspect from the top and gives bottom visisbility
as well. I've been running 10000 miles without it, so far so good.

Paul

--- In ev_update@y..., "Michael G. McCarthy" <mgmccarthy@c...> wrote:
All other things being equal it would be better to
operate in the range when the thermostat is just
coming into full open then running just under the fan
temp switch point.
Don,

Even granting that the ideal temp range is a range where the
thermostat is
just opening (and I don't know what evidence there is for that) and
where
the fans accordingly should hardly ever turn on except when running
the A/C,
you are arguing that the hood/grill/bellypan is designed as a
coordinated
system in such a way to steadily evacuate air from the engine
compartment by
pulling it through the radiators such that the fans are NOT really
needed,
thereby keeping temps at an optimized lower-than-what-trips-the-
fans AND
high-enough-to-open-the-thermostat range. I follow your logic, but
I don't
believe the pan is part of a system that sophisticated and
optimized around
keeping the fans off. Why bother? Just run the fans.

I think instead that the pan is more simply part of a system
designed to
minimize the costs associated with weatherproofing and protecting
vulnerable
underhood components, and that's very important in highly
electronic cars
with lots of sensors, wiring and fittings. Likewise, costs are
reduced
because the pan forms a physical shield that protects components,
wiring and
plumbing thereby eliminating the need to engineer all those things
out of
harm's way, or make tem impact resistant. Is the pan also
engineered to be
part of a venturi-style cooling system that's optimize for an
idealized temp
range lower than the temp range that trips the fans? I highly
doubt it.
Could be, but I just don't think so.


----------
From: "Donald " <gibbonsnc@y...>
To: ev_update@y...
Subject: [ev_update] Re: Belly pan
Date: Tue, Sep 18, 2001, 12:30 PM


I was not thinking so much about the fans as I was about the coolant
temps being lower.

Look at it this way: If you have all other things equal (engine
speed, ground/air speed, grade of road) more air thru the radiator
will give you lower coolant temps.

I don't have my book with me right now but there are two temp ranges
here: Fan switch & thermostat setting. Its clear that no matter what
the ground/air speed the fan will come on when the coolant gets hot
enough. But there is a gap between when the thermostat is fully open
and when the fans come on. All other things being equal it would be
better to operate in the range when the thermostat is just coming
into full open then running just under the fan temp switch point.



Yahoo! Groups Sponsor ADVERTISEMENT
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17050649
98:HM/A=793313/R=0/*; var
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Re: is it worth replacing ... T fittings on '93

 

The plastic T connect heater core to rear heater core to engine
block. They are located in front of brake booster, below brake fluid
reservoir. Mine was full of cracks and falling into pieces, so that
it was difficult to remove without leaving pieces inside. I don't
have the part number; we are in the middle of a move and the papers
are buried in a box somewhere, hopefully I can find them in a few
weeks. Part is about the size of 1/2" PVC T.

Paul

--- In ev_update@y..., HumphreyMoynihan@a... wrote:
--- In ev_update@y..., prousseau@t... wrote:
...The plastic T broke and we lost all coolant ... think about
replacing those plastic T. There are 2 of them, its a $4 part at
the
dealer. They don't seem to age well...

Paul, where are these T pieces? I am aware of a flange that some
have had fail that mounts to the head. Mike McCarthy has provided
the part numbers for this part, thanks Mike. Paul, do you have the
part number for what you had to replace? Thanks

Humphrey
'93 MV 5spd


Re: Mouse problem

Michael G. McCarthy
 

I've used traps that capture mice rather than kill them. They have a
teeter-totter ramp that the mouse walks up (in response to bait) and, once
the ramp totters, the mouse can't get back out. Then you take the entire
trap to your neighbor's house and release the mice (just kidding!).

----------
From: Janet Land <jland@...>
To: ev_update@...
Subject: [ev_update] Mouse problem
Date: Tue, Sep 18, 2001, 4:23 PM


I recently discovered mouse droppings in my '96 EVC. They'd been into a
bag of dog biscuits I had on the dash (which is how I first discovered
them) and also into the cupboard just above the back seat where I store dry
food stuff. I trapped 3 mice in two nights then left on a week long trip
in the van (set the traps the first night but they weren't touched) got
back and caught another mouse the second night back. So it looks like they
aren't living in the van yet and just coming in to scrounge for now. My
concern is that they might take up residence. I have put mouse tempting
items (including paper coffee filters) in containers but they still seem to
be coming in.
I'm not overly fond of trapping mice and would rather find a way of
keeping them out. Does anyone have any ideas of where they might be
getting in and how I might stop them?

Janet
Saturna Island BC

----------


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Mouse problem

Janet Land
 

I recently discovered mouse droppings in my '96 EVC. They'd been into a
bag of dog biscuits I had on the dash (which is how I first discovered
them) and also into the cupboard just above the back seat where I store dry
food stuff. I trapped 3 mice in two nights then left on a week long trip
in the van (set the traps the first night but they weren't touched) got
back and caught another mouse the second night back. So it looks like they
aren't living in the van yet and just coming in to scrounge for now. My
concern is that they might take up residence. I have put mouse tempting
items (including paper coffee filters) in containers but they still seem to
be coming in.
I'm not overly fond of trapping mice and would rather find a way of
keeping them out. Does anyone have any ideas of where they might be
getting in and how I might stop them?

Janet
Saturna Island BC

----------


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Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system ().
Version: 6.0.280 / Virus Database: 147 - Release Date: 11/09/2001


Re: Maaco or Earl Scheib

Michael G. McCarthy
 

Just make sure you roll up the windows or they'll paint the interior at no
extra charge!! LOL

Seriously, though, you can get a very decent result from a discount painter
if you are willing to do the time consuming stuff yourself, such as removing
a lot of things, masking others and getting the vehicle as clean as
possible. Most the expense and/or corner cutting has to do with prep work,
and Maaco or Earl Scheib can't do much of that for the prices they charge.

----------
From: carlton_john@...
To: ev_update@...
Subject: [ev_update] Maaco or Earl Scheib
Date: Tue, Sep 18, 2001, 4:06 PM


To the horror of many I imagine, I'm thinking of painting my '93 EV
Weekender at Maaco or Earl Scheib. I'm not keen on its current teal
blue and am considering a dark blue color.

Has anyone painted their EVs at Maaco or Earl Scheib? And if so,
what were the results? The only reason I'm considering it is $$. A
really good paint job will cost me $3k to $4.5k while I can get a
(hopefully) decent paint job at either Maaco or Earl Scheib for about
$1k.

Please share your experiences or thoughts.

Thanks,
John


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Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service
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