I have a hardtop?('93) with the same problem. So water entry around the rear hatch may be independent of the various poptop/camper features.
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My sense is that water flow from heavy rains (in northern CA) may overwhelm the existing (old) seals around the rear hatch.? I haven't found the exact entry point. The vehicle is parallel parked on a flat street that tilts slightly towards the gutter, so most of the water flow around the rear hatch drains off on the gutter side of the vehicle, and that's the side where the interior dampness occurs.? ??
On Mon, Feb 5, 2024 at 8:41?AM Steve via <seaweedsteve=[email protected]> wrote:
Just guessing at probable "weak links", but it could be a window or anywhere!? ?I just think that replacing the pop-top gasket is good maintenance in general and helps eliminate that as an issue for any problem solving now or future.
As for replacing the silicone patch, it may actually be just fine and it IS a lot of work to clean it off.? AND if it's truly silicone (poor roof seal material), removal leaves you open to the well-known silicon contamination problem (nothing sticks to it or it's residue) unless every bit is removed.? So, that may not be the efficient thing to do without some proof that the leak is there.
Still, one wonders how smooth and level the patch is.? Ultimately, a patch that is so different from the metal roof will seal differently.? Maybe fine, maybe not.? The marine sealants will stick better, be sufficiently flexible yet sand-able and allow later reworking (stuff can stick to it) without full removal if needed.?
Myself, I would change it out without proof because I'm anal and want repairs to be as full integrity as possible before I hit the road.? But you might not want to spend a lot of time on what turns out to be a non-problem and then still have to find the actual leak!? So, grain of salt, eh?
One test you could do is remove any trim that obstructs your view of water entry around that corner and hit it with a hose while watching.? I wouldn't abuse the seal with heavy direct pressure but yes, simulate a windy driving rain.?
As a general comment for all? -? it's best to avoid silicone except for certain glass and bath/kitchen uses.... perhaps.? There are much better sealants out there these days.? ?Generally, when I might want a good clear Silicone, I go for "Lexel" or similar.? The ones that advertise "Crystal Clear" are usually that type.?
And then Polyurethanes or the (silane-modified/polyether) variations like Locktite Marine are very very good where they fit.? Roof or window sealing is an ideal use case.? Just verify that they say "UV resistant"? or paint if exposed.