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S11 cross-slide removal
开云体育How do I remove the cross slide from my Super11?? I removed the 2
bolts in front and unscrewed the feed screw.? In the center slot there is a
cap screw and a slotted screw.? Right now the slide does not slide off the
dovetail.? It looks like the?cap screw holds the feed block, and the
slotted screw is just a backlash adjustment.? If I remove them both,?I
have a feeling the presumably brass?block will just drop off, and?I
don't know that I want that, nor do I know how to reassemble.? Do I need to
screw the?feed screw back in to hold the block and then?take out both
of these screws, and will the cross slide just slide off after that, or am I
missing something?else?
?
--
Regards,
Rich
================================
Richard Kleinhenz
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Re: bed wear - reality check
Frank Hasieber
开云体育I am not familiar with the S11, I haven’t even seen one in person, but it seems to follow the V13 very closely, I did reset the headstock on my V13 once (after 20 years use) when I detected an error of 0.01mm (0.0004”) over 100mm, This is not to be undertaken lightly, I spent about 4 hours before I got it down to 0.005mm (0.0002”) in 100mm. Frank. ? -----Original
Message----- |
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Re: bed wear - reality check
--- In emcoV10lathe@..., "Rich Kleinhenz" <richk@...> wrote:
Since I don't have a faceplate it's not too important to have thecenter, like Frank said, I can turn a point if I simply want an alignment test. Depending on what it costs I'll get one from Emco when I order the change gears. There is an extra threaded hole in the spindle for a drive rod. You don't need a face plate to turn between centers. Thread a rod into the hole, use a dog or tread a screw into the work, and toss it on a center. But just for kicks: I'm still curious what sort of vertical playothers live with. I doubt that everyone has a perfect lathe - or do you? .001 to .002. I'm betting you can get better than .005 with some tweaking. you'll probably want to tighten it a bit more toward the headstock side of the carriage. As I recall, you bought one of the pretty repainted ones. Was it the one with a cracked casting on the front gib? Said something in the ebay ad about it. If your's has been apart, is the headstock properly aligned? In other words, if you chuck up a 6" long chunk of 2" diameter steel and turn it down slightly, does it have a taper? The headstock alignment method seems a bit lacking to me. It doesn't seem to really nest against the V ways well. If the person who re-assembled it didn't dial it in, it might be off quite a bit. |
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Re: bed wear - reality check
Frank Hasieber
开云体育The carriage then is different to the V13, I have the parts manual and there are definitely no bolts shown for adjustment of the front, the rear one is the same as the S11, centers are hardened but you can turn it using an indexable carbide insert, the cheaper ones tend to be case hardened and not heat treated/hardened right through, I have turned the outer race of ball bearings/ball races. The V13 spindle does not have a step at the junction of the taper and the spindle bore, which is 36mm. Frank. ? -----Original
Message----- From: emcoV10lathe@...
[mailto:emcoV10lathe@...]On
Behalf Of davedamouth
Sent: Saturday, April 22, 2006 2:48 AM To: emcoV10lathe@... Subject: [emcoV10lathe] Re: bed wear - reality check ? There are 4
bolts that tighten the front carriage gib.? 2 are hidden |
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Re: bed wear - reality check
Thanks, Dave. I'm pretty clear on the MT, that's what I thought. I think Frank's spindle on his V13 probably has a larger bore and does not have the step the S11's spindle has. Since I don't have a faceplate it's not too important to have the center, like Frank said, I can turn a point if I simply want an alignment test. Depending on what it costs I'll get one from Emco when I order the change gears.
I'll take a closer look at the gibs - makes sense that there should be more bolts. When I get back home after the weekend I'll check it out. But just for kicks: I'm still curious what sort of vertical play others live with. I doubt that everyone has a perfect lathe - or do you? In reality it's more important to have the lathe do what I want it to when I want it to, with as little fuss as possible, than worrying about numbers - I'm just trying to get a feeling for this stuff. I've been using a small Chinese wonder for a while and have got used to a certain amount of slop. (Though I have been working on improving it for years ;-) On 4/22/2006 at 12:48 AM davedamouth wrote: There are 4 bolts that tighten the front carriage gib. 2 are hidden-- Regards, Rich ================================ Richard Kleinhenz ================================ |
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Re: bed wear - reality check
There are 4 bolts that tighten the front carriage gib. 2 are hidden
under the crosslide, and require the crosslide to be removed for access. The plastic rear carriage gib strip is adjustable also, and if it has been scored up from years of poor cleaning, can be reversed to make it like new. The spindle is a MT5, sort of. The full MT5 taper is pretty long, and spindle's routinely use an abbreviated taper. This one is really shortened. A normal length MT5 will not fit. It can, however, be shortened to fit. The problem is, most centers are pretty hard. I have the original MT5 dead center, as well as a cheap MT5 to MT3 reducer bushing that was milled down to fit. If you need any pictures or measurements, let me know. --- In emcoV10lathe@..., Richard Kleinhenz <richk@...> wrote: the S11 there is that same lip - just 2 screws can tighten the gap. That 'adjustment' is what I was talking about. Is this a silly way to think about it? main components to assuring accuracy and good cuts. I don't have a center for the headstock yet. I know I have to adjust the setover because on a long bar I found more of a taper than I would like. Don't recall the number but I figure it'd be easy to do better. For that I need to make a test bar I think. Actually, I don't have a center for the headstock, something I will also need. It's supposed to be MT5. But in the manual it looks like a short stubby thing, and looking into the spindle I see that it would need to be. Can someone that has an S11 with the D1-4 spindle verify that this is a part I need to get from Emco? That a MT5 dead center from Enco would not work? under the edge of the bed to prevent lifting, but this is not adjustable, the only form of adjustment is the carriage clamp, but I don't think that is it's primary purpose although there are 2 cap head screws which can be tightened to stiffen up the carriage travel. [mailto:emcoV10lathe@...]On Behalf Of Frank Hasieber Sent: Friday, April 21, 2006 3:04 PMand tried, I mounted the dial gauge on the saddle, with the plunger in contact with the flat portion of the bed between the ways, using a 0.01mm gauge I get less than 0.01mm (0.0004") over a 500mm movement of the carriage. I assume you meant move the carriage not live it, or was that Lift? Lifting of course would not really prove anything, it would only indicate the clearance of the tightening adjustment, if the carriage was loosened to the point where it was very easy to move it could be quite large, but if you tighten to the point where it is difficult to move the carriage it should be almost zero, the weight of the saddle etc plus the downward cutting force should keep it firmly in contact with the ways at all times. Looking at the V13 parts manual there is a fiber, keep plate that fits under the edge of the bed to stop the rear lifting, there doesn't appear to be anything listed for the front they could be relying on weight alone to keep it down. I hope I have understood correctly. Frank. |
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Re: bed wear - reality check
Frank Hasieber
开云体育I cannot see any problem with using a standard MT5 center, unless there is a lip/step inside the spindle to stop it going right in, you could turn a short spigot on the end if it won’t go in fully, the V13 has the same spindle bore and takes a standard MT5 center. I rarely use a center at the headstock, when I do I just take a piece of scrap bar, mount it in the 3 jaw and turn a 60 degree point on it, this is just as accurate unless you remove it from the chuck, if you do, all that is needed is to take a light cut off of it to true it up the next time you use it, save your cash for something else J. I have my tailstock set, and never touch it; it is a real PITA to get it reset accurately, I‘ve been promising to make an adjustable center for the tailstock for taper turning. Another I have on the “To Do” list is a taper turning attachment! Frank. ? -----Original
Message----- From: emcoV10lathe@...
[mailto:emcoV10lathe@...]On
Behalf Of Richard Kleinhenz
Sent: Friday, April 21, 2006 4:05 PM To: Emco V10 group Subject: RE: [emcoV10lathe] bed wear - reality check ? Yes, I meant lift.? I was looking for any kind of adjustment, and on the S11 there is that same lip - just 2 screws can tighten the gap.? That 'adjustment' is what I was talking about.? Is this a silly way to think about it? ? I was curious about the weight and downward cutting force being the main components to assuring accuracy and good cuts.? I don't have a center for the headstock yet.? I know I have to adjust the setover because on a long bar I found more of a taper than I would like.? Don't recall the number but I figure it'd be easy to do better.? For that?I need to make a test bar I think.? Actually, I don't have a center for the headstock, something I will also need.? It's supposed to be MT5.? But in the manual it looks like a short stubby thing, and looking into the spindle I see that it would need to be.? Can someone that has an S11 with the D1-4 spindle verify that this is a part I need to get from Emco?? That a MT5 dead center from Enco would not work? ? --
Regards,
Rich
================================
Richard Kleinhenz
================================
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Re: bed wear - reality check
开云体育Yes, I meant lift.? I was looking for any kind of adjustment, and on
the S11 there is that same lip - just 2 screws can tighten the gap.? That
'adjustment' is what I was talking about.? Is this a silly way to think
about it?
?
I was curious about the weight and downward cutting force being the main
components to assuring accuracy and good cuts.? I don't have a center for
the headstock yet.? I know I have to adjust the setover because on a long
bar I found more of a taper than I would like.? Don't recall the number but
I figure it'd be easy to do better.? For that?I need to make a test
bar I think.? Actually, I don't have a center for the headstock, something
I will also need.? It's supposed to be MT5.? But in the manual it
looks like a short stubby thing, and looking into the spindle I see that it
would need to be.? Can someone that has an S11 with the D1-4 spindle verify
that this is a part I need to get from Emco?? That a MT5 dead center from
Enco would not work?
On 4/21/2006 at 3:33 PM Frank Hasieber
wrote:
--
Regards,
Rich
================================
Richard Kleinhenz
================================ |
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Re: bed wear - reality check
Frank Hasieber
开云体育I just looked at the lathe, there is a lip on the apron which fits under the edge of the bed to prevent lifting, but this is not adjustable, the only form of adjustment is the carriage clamp, but I don’t think that is it’s primary purpose although there are 2 cap head screws which can be tightened to stiffen up the carriage travel. ? -----Original
Message----- From: emcoV10lathe@...
[mailto:emcoV10lathe@...]On
Behalf Of Frank Hasieber
Sent: Friday, April 21, 2006 3:04 PM To: emcoV10lathe@... Subject: RE: [emcoV10lathe] bed wear - reality check ? I don’t know, I’ve never tried! OK correct that, I’ve just been down and tried, I mounted the dial gauge on the saddle, with the plunger in contact with the flat portion of the bed between the ways, using a 0.01mm gauge I get less than 0.01mm (0.0004”) over a 500mm movement of the carriage. I assume you meant move the carriage not live it, or was that Lift? Lifting of course would not really prove anything, it would only indicate the clearance of the tightening adjustment, if the carriage was loosened to the point where it was very easy to move it could be quite large, but if you tighten to the point where it is difficult to move the carriage it should be almost zero, the weight of the saddle etc plus the downward cutting force should keep it firmly in contact with the ways at all times. Looking at the V13 parts manual there is a fiber, keep plate that fits under the edge of the bed to stop the rear lifting, there doesn’t appear to be anything listed for the front they could be relying on weight alone to keep it down. I hope I have understood correctly. Frank. ? -----Original
Message----- ? Thanks.? So if you mount an indicator on the cross slide and indicate on the bed, and live the carriage - how much play do you get?
--
Regards,
Rich
================================
Richard Kleinhenz
================================
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Re: bed wear - reality check
Frank Hasieber
开云体育I don’t know, I’ve never tried! OK correct that, I’ve just been down and tried, I mounted the dial gauge on the saddle, with the plunger in contact with the flat portion of the bed between the ways, using a 0.01mm gauge I get less than 0.01mm (0.0004”) over a 500mm movement of the carriage. I assume you meant move the carriage not live it, or was that Lift? Lifting of course would not really prove anything, it would only indicate the clearance of the tightening adjustment, if the carriage was loosened to the point where it was very easy to move it could be quite large, but if you tighten to the point where it is difficult to move the carriage it should be almost zero, the weight of the saddle etc plus the downward cutting force should keep it firmly in contact with the ways at all times. Looking at the V13 parts manual there is a fiber, keep plate that fits under the edge of the bed to stop the rear lifting, there doesn’t appear to be anything listed for the front they could be relying on weight alone to keep it down. I hope I have understood correctly. Frank. ? -----Original
Message----- From: emcoV10lathe@...
[mailto:emcoV10lathe@...]On
Behalf Of Richard Kleinhenz
Sent: Friday, April 21, 2006 1:54 PM To: Emco V10 group Subject: RE: [emcoV10lathe] bed wear - reality check ? Thanks.? So if you mount an indicator on the cross slide and indicate on the bed, and live the carriage - how much play do you get?
--
Regards,
Rich
================================
Richard Kleinhenz
================================
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Re: bed wear - reality check
开云体育Thanks.? So if you mount an indicator on the cross slide and indicate
on the bed, and live the carriage - how much play do you get?
On 4/21/2006 at 12:34 PM Frank Hasieber
wrote:
--
Regards,
Rich
================================
Richard Kleinhenz
================================ |
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Re: bed wear - reality check
Frank Hasieber
开云体育Rich, I wouldn’t bother, it is rare that you will want to turn anything longer than 10”, I did in one of our early contacts mention that you would probably find this to be the case, as about 90% of all the use of the lathe is within 10” of the chuck, in the 20+ years I have had my V13 I think I have only once needed to turn a piece of more than 500mm long, I do now feel the travel tighten as I move the carriage towards the tailstock, but it is of no consequence, one of the big plusses is that the headstock of these lathes is removable from the bed which simplifies the grinding if you decide to have the bed reground, chuck a piece of bar preferably at least 1” diameter and make a test cut over a 10” length and measure any difference between the two ends, but I would do nothing until you find it is a problem. I set it to work comfortably near the headstock, I can still traverse the full bed length but it does tighten up slightly. Frank. ? ? -----Original
Message----- From: emcoV10lathe@...
[mailto:emcoV10lathe@...]On
Behalf Of Richard Kleinhenz
Sent: Friday, April 21, 2006 2:55 AM To: Emco V10 group Subject: [emcoV10lathe] bed wear - reality check ? OK, I'm getting used to my new Super 11.? So now I am discovering the little things you don't notice at first when you buy a new lathe.? Unless you have the experience to look exactly for the right things. ? I find the bed is worn near the headstock.? Not unexpected in a used lathe.? I'm sure others' used lathes have that also.? So my question is:? How much vert. play do you have on the carriage near the headstock?? If I set for close to zero play at the tailstock end, I have nearly .005" hear the headstock.? Well, life is not perfect though I'd like it to be.? How do you live with the play?? Does it affect how you work?? Do you tighten to get rid of play when working near the headstock, and loosen it if you work on a long piece?? Or not bother? ? --
Regards,
Rich
================================
Richard Kleinhenz
================================
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bed wear - reality check
开云体育OK, I'm getting used to my new Super 11.? So now I am discovering the
little things you don't notice at first when you buy a new lathe.? Unless
you have the experience to look exactly for the right things.
?
I find the bed is worn near the headstock.? Not unexpected in a used
lathe.? I'm sure others' used lathes have that also.? So my question
is:? How much vert. play do you have on the carriage near the
headstock?? If I set for close to zero play at the tailstock end, I have
nearly .005" hear the headstock.? Well, life is not perfect though I'd like
it to be.? How do you live with the play?? Does it affect how you
work?? Do you tighten to get rid of play when working near the headstock,
and loosen it if you work on a long piece?? Or not bother?
?
--
Regards,
Rich
================================
Richard Kleinhenz
================================ |
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Re: Need manuel for V10P
I have a manual for my V10P, I'll scan it and send you a copy. Please
send me an email directly & any other takers. Eric --- In emcoV10lathe@..., "rns928rns928" <rpierce@...> wrote: V10P lathe/mill and was looking for a manuel of operation/parts.The latheis in good shape and came with a bunch of extra stuff I`m trying tofigure out what it`s for.What type oil is used in the gear box and is themill gear box the same type.Any help would be greatly appreciated.ThankYou Ray |
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Need manuel for V10P
Hi All, New to the board and hoping for some help.I just bought a V10P
lathe/mill and was looking for a manuel of operation/parts.The lathe is in good shape and came with a bunch of extra stuff I`m trying to figure out what it`s for.What type oil is used in the gear box and is the mill gear box the same type.Any help would be greatly appreciated.Thank You Ray |
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Re: V10 parts and accessories...
almus_kenter
--- In emcoV10lathe@..., "Charles Morrill"
<chasfred2002@...> wrote:
I was planning on purchasing a gear cutter from Blue Ridge asthey probably know exactly what I'll need. Was thinking of pressing the Sheldonshaper into use, but I don't think a single point tool will cut the fiber allthat well. I've been told the fiber was used to cut down on noise, but I'mnot sure this is so.cost but I've always wanted to build one and have an extra six inch Chinese scale leftover from another project. What the heck, it's kind of fun to get out the soldering iron.version of their toolpost grinder, or several? There's one on ebay now and I'mwondering if it would work for the V10-p I have a tool post grinder. I purchased it from someone who used it on their V10P. He said it was for a S11. Apparently it fits both. But I have not used it yet. A gentleman I corresponded with had a whole bunch of V10P stuff that he sold me as a package; grinder, change gears , Uni quadrant, stop, Thread dial... The guy who sold me the grinder said that he used it twice. I am not sure when I would use it. But now that I have it I will have to think of a reason. Good luck with the Shumatech. I often curse the Chinese scales They have too many idiosyncracies. I can understand why no one who used a lathe professionally would use a chinese-scale based DRO. They are prone to failure. You can just get a chinese 6 inch caliper for 15 dollars, modify it with a dremel tool and you are set. Long ~28inch chinese scales are comparable in cost to glass qudrature scales. Yes indeed the fiber gears are much quieter than the steel ones. My super 11 is very noticeably noiser. I have the dvd on making a gears which involves making a gear hob. Pretty straightforward. Have you tried Boston gear? It is possible that you could get gears that would work but may need modification of the bore. Good luck,. -Almus |
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Re: Steady rest for S11
On 4/19/2006 at 12:22 AM Richard W. Remington wrote:
The Metal Lathe Accessories (www.mlatoolbox@...)Steady rest worksOh good - I was looking at that, but it said 12" swing and up, been meaning to ask -- Regards, Rich ================================ Richard Kleinhenz ================================ |
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Steady rest for S11
Richard W. Remington
The Metal Lathe Accessories (www.mlatoolbox@...)Steady rest works
well on the S11, as does the rear mounted cutoff tool post. I agree on the follower rest-- I have had one on order with Blue Ridge for over 6 Mo. I give them a call every month to remind them of my back order. Why replace the S10 gears with fibre? It would not be as quiet with metal gears but more rugged. Prehaps replaceing the 2 or3 final drive gears with metal would help. |
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Re: V10 parts and accessories...
Charles Morrill
Thanks for your reply Almus.
> I have yet to strip a gear. How do you plan to make the gears? are you going to buyI was planning on purchasing a gear cutter from Blue Ridge as they probably know exactly what I'll need. Was thinking of pressing the Sheldon shaper into use, but I don't think a single point tool will cut the fiber all that well. I've been told the fiber was used to cut down on noise, but I'm not sure this is so. As regards the Shumatech DRO...I think you're right about the cost but I've always wanted to build one and have an extra six inch Chinese scale left over from another project. What the heck, it's kind of fun to get out the soldering iron. Speaking of Emco stuff, do you know if EMCO made a single version of their toolpost grinder, or several? There's one on ebay now and I'm wondering if it would work for the V10-p Many thanks. Waumbek |