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Re: bed wear - reality check

 

Good points, thanks, need to check into it. Will get back when I have some data

--
Regards,
Rich
================================
Richard Kleinhenz


================================
Re: bed wear - reality check

Frank Hasieber
 

开云体育

I am not familiar with the S11, I haven’t even seen one in person, but it seems to follow the V13 very closely, I did reset the headstock on my V13 once (after 20 years use) when I detected an error of 0.01mm (0.0004”) over 100mm, This is not to be undertaken lightly, I spent about 4 hours before I got it down to 0.005mm (0.0002”) in 100mm.

Frank.

?

-----Original Message-----
From: emcoV10lathe@... [mailto:emcoV10lathe@...]On Behalf Of davedamouth
?

If yours has been apart, is the headstock properly aligned?? In other
words, if you chuck up a 6" long chunk of 2" diameter steel and turn
it down slightly, does it have a taper?? The headstock alignment
method seems a bit lacking to me.? It doesn't seem to really nest
against the V ways well.? If the person who re-assembled it didn't
dial it in, it might be off quite a bit.
Re: bed wear - reality check

 

--- In emcoV10lathe@..., "Rich Kleinhenz" <richk@...> wrote:
Since I don't have a faceplate it's not too important to have the
center, like Frank said, I can turn a point if I simply want an
alignment test. Depending on what it costs I'll get one from Emco
when I order the change gears.

There is an extra threaded hole in the spindle for a drive rod. You
don't need a face plate to turn between centers. Thread a rod into
the hole, use a dog or tread a screw into the work, and toss it on a
center.

But just for kicks: I'm still curious what sort of vertical play
others live with. I doubt that everyone has a perfect lathe - or do
you?

.001 to .002. I'm betting you can get better than .005 with some
tweaking. you'll probably want to tighten it a bit more toward the
headstock side of the carriage.

As I recall, you bought one of the pretty repainted ones. Was it the
one with a cracked casting on the front gib? Said something in the
ebay ad about it.

If your's has been apart, is the headstock properly aligned? In other
words, if you chuck up a 6" long chunk of 2" diameter steel and turn
it down slightly, does it have a taper? The headstock alignment
method seems a bit lacking to me. It doesn't seem to really nest
against the V ways well. If the person who re-assembled it didn't
dial it in, it might be off quite a bit.
Re: bed wear - reality check

Frank Hasieber
 

开云体育

The carriage then is different to the V13, I have the parts manual and there are definitely no bolts shown for adjustment of the front, the rear one is the same as the S11, centers are hardened but you can turn it using an indexable carbide insert, the cheaper ones tend to be case hardened and not heat treated/hardened right through, I have turned the outer race of ball bearings/ball races. The V13 spindle does not have a step at the junction of the taper and the spindle bore, which is 36mm.

Frank.

?

-----Original Message-----

From: emcoV10lathe@... [mailto:emcoV10lathe@...]On Behalf Of davedamouth
Sent: Saturday, April 22, 2006 2:48 AM
To: emcoV10lathe@...
Subject: [emcoV10lathe] Re: bed wear - reality check

?

There are 4 bolts that tighten the front carriage gib.? 2 are hidden
under the crosslide, and require the crosslide to be removed for
access.? The plastic rear carriage gib strip is adjustable also, and
if it has been scored up from years of poor cleaning, can be reversed
to make it like new.

The spindle is a MT5, sort of.? The full MT5 taper is pretty long, and
spindle's routinely use an abbreviated taper.? This one is really
shortened.? A normal length MT5 will not fit.? It can, however, be
shortened to fit.? The problem is, most centers are pretty hard.

I have the original MT5 dead center, as well as a cheap MT5 to MT3
reducer bushing that was milled down to fit.? If you need any pictures
or measurements, let me know.?





Re: bed wear - reality check

 

Thanks, Dave. I'm pretty clear on the MT, that's what I thought. I think Frank's spindle on his V13 probably has a larger bore and does not have the step the S11's spindle has. Since I don't have a faceplate it's not too important to have the center, like Frank said, I can turn a point if I simply want an alignment test. Depending on what it costs I'll get one from Emco when I order the change gears.

I'll take a closer look at the gibs - makes sense that there should be more bolts. When I get back home after the weekend I'll check it out.

But just for kicks: I'm still curious what sort of vertical play others live with. I doubt that everyone has a perfect lathe - or do you? In reality it's more important to have the lathe do what I want it to when I want it to, with as little fuss as possible, than worrying about numbers - I'm just trying to get a feeling for this stuff. I've been using a small Chinese wonder for a while and have got used to a certain amount of slop. (Though I have been working on improving it for years ;-)

On 4/22/2006 at 12:48 AM davedamouth wrote:

There are 4 bolts that tighten the front carriage gib. 2 are hidden
under the crosslide, and require the crosslide to be removed for
access. The plastic rear carriage gib strip is adjustable also, and
if it has been scored up from years of poor cleaning, can be reversed
to make it like new.

The spindle is a MT5, sort of. The full MT5 taper is pretty long, and
spindle's routinely use an abbreviated taper. This one is really
shortened. A normal length MT5 will not fit. It can, however, be
shortened to fit. The problem is, most centers are pretty hard.

I have the original MT5 dead center, as well as a cheap MT5 to MT3
reducer bushing that was milled down to fit. If you need any pictures
or measurements, let me know.
--
Regards,
Rich
================================
Richard Kleinhenz


================================
Re: bed wear - reality check

 

There are 4 bolts that tighten the front carriage gib. 2 are hidden
under the crosslide, and require the crosslide to be removed for
access. The plastic rear carriage gib strip is adjustable also, and
if it has been scored up from years of poor cleaning, can be reversed
to make it like new.

The spindle is a MT5, sort of. The full MT5 taper is pretty long, and
spindle's routinely use an abbreviated taper. This one is really
shortened. A normal length MT5 will not fit. It can, however, be
shortened to fit. The problem is, most centers are pretty hard.

I have the original MT5 dead center, as well as a cheap MT5 to MT3
reducer bushing that was milled down to fit. If you need any pictures
or measurements, let me know.




--- In emcoV10lathe@..., Richard Kleinhenz <richk@...> wrote:

Yes, I meant lift. I was looking for any kind of adjustment, and on
the S11 there is that same lip - just 2 screws can tighten the gap.
That 'adjustment' is what I was talking about. Is this a silly way to
think about it?

I was curious about the weight and downward cutting force being the
main components to assuring accuracy and good cuts. I don't have a
center for the headstock yet. I know I have to adjust the setover
because on a long bar I found more of a taper than I would like.
Don't recall the number but I figure it'd be easy to do better. For
that I need to make a test bar I think. Actually, I don't have a
center for the headstock, something I will also need. It's supposed
to be MT5. But in the manual it looks like a short stubby thing, and
looking into the spindle I see that it would need to be. Can someone
that has an S11 with the D1-4 spindle verify that this is a part I
need to get from Emco? That a MT5 dead center from Enco would not work?

On 4/21/2006 at 3:33 PM Frank Hasieber wrote:
I just looked at the lathe, there is a lip on the apron which fits
under the edge of the bed to prevent lifting, but this is not
adjustable, the only form of adjustment is the carriage clamp, but I
don't think that is it's primary purpose although there are 2 cap head
screws which can be tightened to stiffen up the carriage travel.

-----Original Message-----
From: emcoV10lathe@...
[mailto:emcoV10lathe@...]On Behalf Of Frank Hasieber
Sent: Friday, April 21, 2006 3:04 PM
To: emcoV10lathe@...
Subject: RE: [emcoV10lathe] bed wear - reality check

I don't know, I've never tried! OK correct that, I've just been down
and tried, I mounted the dial gauge on the saddle, with the plunger in
contact with the flat portion of the bed between the ways, using a
0.01mm gauge I get less than 0.01mm (0.0004") over a 500mm movement of
the carriage. I assume you meant move the carriage not live it, or was
that Lift? Lifting of course would not really prove anything, it would
only indicate the clearance of the tightening adjustment, if the
carriage was loosened to the point where it was very easy to move it
could be quite large, but if you tighten to the point where it is
difficult to move the carriage it should be almost zero, the weight of
the saddle etc plus the downward cutting force should keep it firmly
in contact with the ways at all times. Looking at the V13 parts manual
there is a fiber, keep plate that fits under the edge of the bed to
stop the rear lifting, there doesn't appear to be anything listed for
the front they could be relying on weight alone to keep it down. I
hope I have understood correctly.
Frank.

--
Regards,
Rich
================================
Richard Kleinhenz


================================
Re: bed wear - reality check

Frank Hasieber
 

开云体育

I cannot see any problem with using a standard MT5 center, unless there is a lip/step inside the spindle to stop it going right in, you could turn a short spigot on the end if it won’t go in fully, the V13 has the same spindle bore and takes a standard MT5 center. I rarely use a center at the headstock, when I do I just take a piece of scrap bar, mount it in the 3 jaw and turn a 60 degree point on it, this is just as accurate unless you remove it from the chuck, if you do, all that is needed is to take a light cut off of it to true it up the next time you use it, save your cash for something else J. I have my tailstock set, and never touch it; it is a real PITA to get it reset accurately, I‘ve been promising to make an adjustable center for the tailstock for taper turning. Another I have on the “To Do” list is a taper turning attachment!

Frank.

?

-----Original Message-----

From: emcoV10lathe@... [mailto:emcoV10lathe@...]On Behalf Of Richard Kleinhenz
Sent: Friday, April 21, 2006 4:05 PM
To: Emco V10 group
Subject: RE: [emcoV10lathe] bed wear - reality check

?

Yes, I meant lift.? I was looking for any kind of adjustment, and on the S11 there is that same lip - just 2 screws can tighten the gap.? That 'adjustment' is what I was talking about.? Is this a silly way to think about it?

?

I was curious about the weight and downward cutting force being the main components to assuring accuracy and good cuts.? I don't have a center for the headstock yet.? I know I have to adjust the setover because on a long bar I found more of a taper than I would like.? Don't recall the number but I figure it'd be easy to do better.? For that?I need to make a test bar I think.? Actually, I don't have a center for the headstock, something I will also need.? It's supposed to be MT5.? But in the manual it looks like a short stubby thing, and looking into the spindle I see that it would need to be.? Can someone that has an S11 with the D1-4 spindle verify that this is a part I need to get from Emco?? That a MT5 dead center from Enco would not work?

?


--
Regards,
Rich
================================
Richard Kleinhenz
================================
Re: bed wear - reality check

 

开云体育

Yes, I meant lift.? I was looking for any kind of adjustment, and on the S11 there is that same lip - just 2 screws can tighten the gap.? That 'adjustment' is what I was talking about.? Is this a silly way to think about it?
?
I was curious about the weight and downward cutting force being the main components to assuring accuracy and good cuts.? I don't have a center for the headstock yet.? I know I have to adjust the setover because on a long bar I found more of a taper than I would like.? Don't recall the number but I figure it'd be easy to do better.? For that?I need to make a test bar I think.? Actually, I don't have a center for the headstock, something I will also need.? It's supposed to be MT5.? But in the manual it looks like a short stubby thing, and looking into the spindle I see that it would need to be.? Can someone that has an S11 with the D1-4 spindle verify that this is a part I need to get from Emco?? That a MT5 dead center from Enco would not work?

On 4/21/2006 at 3:33 PM Frank Hasieber wrote:

I just looked at the lathe, there is a lip on the apron which fits under the edge of the bed to prevent lifting, but this is not adjustable, the only form of adjustment is the carriage clamp, but I dont think that is its primary purpose although there are 2 cap head screws which can be tightened to stiffen up the carriage travel.

?

-----Original Message-----
From: emcoV10lathe@... [mailto:emcoV10lathe@...]On Behalf Of Frank Hasieber
Sent: Friday, April 21, 2006 3:04 PM
To: emcoV10lathe@...
Subject: RE: [emcoV10lathe] bed wear - reality check

?

I dont know, Ive never tried! OK correct that, Ive just been down and tried, I mounted the dial gauge on the saddle, with the plunger in contact with the flat portion of the bed between the ways, using a 0.01mm gauge I get less than 0.01mm (0.0004) over a 500mm movement of the carriage. I assume you meant move the carriage not live it, or was that Lift? Lifting of course would not really prove anything, it would only indicate the clearance of the tightening adjustment, if the carriage was loosened to the point where it was very easy to move it could be quite large, but if you tighten to the point where it is difficult to move the carriage it should be almost zero, the weight of the saddle etc plus the downward cutting force should keep it firmly in contact with the ways at all times. Looking at the V13 parts manual there is a fiber, keep plate that fits under the edge of the bed to stop the rear lifting, there doesnt appear to be anything listed for the front they could be relying on weight alone to keep it down. I hope I have understood correctly.

Frank.

?


--
Regards,
Rich
================================
Richard Kleinhenz
================================
Re: bed wear - reality check

Frank Hasieber
 

开云体育

I just looked at the lathe, there is a lip on the apron which fits under the edge of the bed to prevent lifting, but this is not adjustable, the only form of adjustment is the carriage clamp, but I don’t think that is it’s primary purpose although there are 2 cap head screws which can be tightened to stiffen up the carriage travel.

?

-----Original Message-----

From: emcoV10lathe@... [mailto:emcoV10lathe@...]On Behalf Of Frank Hasieber
Sent: Friday, April 21, 2006 3:04 PM
To: emcoV10lathe@...
Subject: RE: [emcoV10lathe] bed wear - reality check

?

I don’t know, I’ve never tried! OK correct that, I’ve just been down and tried, I mounted the dial gauge on the saddle, with the plunger in contact with the flat portion of the bed between the ways, using a 0.01mm gauge I get less than 0.01mm (0.0004”) over a 500mm movement of the carriage. I assume you meant move the carriage not live it, or was that Lift? Lifting of course would not really prove anything, it would only indicate the clearance of the tightening adjustment, if the carriage was loosened to the point where it was very easy to move it could be quite large, but if you tighten to the point where it is difficult to move the carriage it should be almost zero, the weight of the saddle etc plus the downward cutting force should keep it firmly in contact with the ways at all times. Looking at the V13 parts manual there is a fiber, keep plate that fits under the edge of the bed to stop the rear lifting, there doesn’t appear to be anything listed for the front they could be relying on weight alone to keep it down. I hope I have understood correctly.

Frank.

?

-----Original Message-----
From: emcoV10lathe@... [mailto:emcoV10lathe@...]On Behalf Of Richard Kleinhenz
Sent: Friday, April 21, 2006 1:54 PM
To: Emco V10 group
Subject: RE: [emcoV10lathe] bed wear - reality check

?

Thanks.? So if you mount an indicator on the cross slide and indicate on the bed, and live the carriage - how much play do you get?




--
Regards,
Rich
================================
Richard Kleinhenz
================================
Re: bed wear - reality check

Frank Hasieber
 

开云体育

I don’t know, I’ve never tried! OK correct that, I’ve just been down and tried, I mounted the dial gauge on the saddle, with the plunger in contact with the flat portion of the bed between the ways, using a 0.01mm gauge I get less than 0.01mm (0.0004”) over a 500mm movement of the carriage. I assume you meant move the carriage not live it, or was that Lift? Lifting of course would not really prove anything, it would only indicate the clearance of the tightening adjustment, if the carriage was loosened to the point where it was very easy to move it could be quite large, but if you tighten to the point where it is difficult to move the carriage it should be almost zero, the weight of the saddle etc plus the downward cutting force should keep it firmly in contact with the ways at all times. Looking at the V13 parts manual there is a fiber, keep plate that fits under the edge of the bed to stop the rear lifting, there doesn’t appear to be anything listed for the front they could be relying on weight alone to keep it down. I hope I have understood correctly.

Frank.

?

-----Original Message-----

From: emcoV10lathe@... [mailto:emcoV10lathe@...]On Behalf Of Richard Kleinhenz
Sent: Friday, April 21, 2006 1:54 PM
To: Emco V10 group
Subject: RE: [emcoV10lathe] bed wear - reality check

?

Thanks.? So if you mount an indicator on the cross slide and indicate on the bed, and live the carriage - how much play do you get?




--
Regards,
Rich
================================
Richard Kleinhenz
================================
Re: bed wear - reality check

 

开云体育

Thanks.? So if you mount an indicator on the cross slide and indicate on the bed, and live the carriage - how much play do you get?

On 4/21/2006 at 12:34 PM Frank Hasieber wrote:

Rich, I wouldnt bother, it is rare that you will want to turn anything longer than 10, I did in one of our early contacts mention that you would probably find this to be the case, as about 90% of all the use of the lathe is within 10 of the chuck, in the 20+ years I have had my V13 I think I have only once needed to turn a piece of more than 500mm long, I do now feel the travel tighten as I move the carriage towards the tailstock, but it is of no consequence, one of the big plusses is that the headstock of these lathes is removable from the bed which simplifies the grinding if you decide to have the bed reground, chuck a piece of bar preferably at least 1 diameter and make a test cut over a 10 length and measure any difference between the two ends, but I would do nothing until you find it is a problem. I set it to work comfortably near the headstock, I can still traverse the full bed length but it does tighten up slightly.

?


--
Regards,
Rich
================================
Richard Kleinhenz
================================
Re: bed wear - reality check

Frank Hasieber
 

开云体育

Rich, I wouldn’t bother, it is rare that you will want to turn anything longer than 10”, I did in one of our early contacts mention that you would probably find this to be the case, as about 90% of all the use of the lathe is within 10” of the chuck, in the 20+ years I have had my V13 I think I have only once needed to turn a piece of more than 500mm long, I do now feel the travel tighten as I move the carriage towards the tailstock, but it is of no consequence, one of the big plusses is that the headstock of these lathes is removable from the bed which simplifies the grinding if you decide to have the bed reground, chuck a piece of bar preferably at least 1” diameter and make a test cut over a 10” length and measure any difference between the two ends, but I would do nothing until you find it is a problem. I set it to work comfortably near the headstock, I can still traverse the full bed length but it does tighten up slightly.

Frank. ?

?

-----Original Message-----

From: emcoV10lathe@... [mailto:emcoV10lathe@...]On Behalf Of Richard Kleinhenz
Sent: Friday, April 21, 2006 2:55 AM
To: Emco V10 group
Subject: [emcoV10lathe] bed wear - reality check

?

OK, I'm getting used to my new Super 11.? So now I am discovering the little things you don't notice at first when you buy a new lathe.? Unless you have the experience to look exactly for the right things.

?

I find the bed is worn near the headstock.? Not unexpected in a used lathe.? I'm sure others' used lathes have that also.? So my question is:? How much vert. play do you have on the carriage near the headstock?? If I set for close to zero play at the tailstock end, I have nearly .005" hear the headstock.? Well, life is not perfect though I'd like it to be.? How do you live with the play?? Does it affect how you work?? Do you tighten to get rid of play when working near the headstock, and loosen it if you work on a long piece?? Or not bother?

?


--
Regards,
Rich
================================
Richard Kleinhenz
================================
bed wear - reality check

 

开云体育

OK, I'm getting used to my new Super 11.? So now I am discovering the little things you don't notice at first when you buy a new lathe.? Unless you have the experience to look exactly for the right things.
?
I find the bed is worn near the headstock.? Not unexpected in a used lathe.? I'm sure others' used lathes have that also.? So my question is:? How much vert. play do you have on the carriage near the headstock?? If I set for close to zero play at the tailstock end, I have nearly .005" hear the headstock.? Well, life is not perfect though I'd like it to be.? How do you live with the play?? Does it affect how you work?? Do you tighten to get rid of play when working near the headstock, and loosen it if you work on a long piece?? Or not bother?
?

--
Regards,
Rich
================================
Richard Kleinhenz
================================
Re: Need manuel for V10P

 

I have a manual for my V10P, I'll scan it and send you a copy. Please
send me an email directly & any other takers. Eric


--- In emcoV10lathe@..., "rns928rns928" <rpierce@...> wrote:

Hi All, New to the board and hoping for some help.I just bought a
V10P
lathe/mill and was looking for a manuel of operation/parts.The lathe
is
in good shape and came with a bunch of extra stuff I`m trying to
figure
out what it`s for.What type oil is used in the gear box and is the
mill
gear box the same type.Any help would be greatly appreciated.Thank
You
Ray
Need manuel for V10P

 

Hi All, New to the board and hoping for some help.I just bought a V10P
lathe/mill and was looking for a manuel of operation/parts.The lathe is
in good shape and came with a bunch of extra stuff I`m trying to figure
out what it`s for.What type oil is used in the gear box and is the mill
gear box the same type.Any help would be greatly appreciated.Thank You
Ray
Re: V10 parts and accessories...

almus_kenter
 

--- In emcoV10lathe@..., "Charles Morrill"
<chasfred2002@...> wrote:

Thanks for your reply Almus.
I was planning on purchasing a gear cutter from Blue Ridge as
they probably
know exactly what I'll need. Was thinking of pressing the Sheldon
shaper into
use, but I don't think a single point tool will cut the fiber all
that well.
I've been told the fiber was used to cut down on noise, but I'm
not sure this
is so.
As regards the Shumatech DRO...I think you're right about the
cost but I've always
wanted to build one and have an extra six inch Chinese scale left
over from another
project. What the heck, it's kind of fun to get out the soldering iron.
Speaking of Emco stuff, do you know if EMCO made a single
version of their
toolpost grinder, or several? There's one on ebay now and I'm
wondering if it would
work for the V10-p

I have a tool post grinder. I purchased it from someone who
used it on their V10P. He said it was for a S11.
Apparently it fits both. But I have not used it yet. A gentleman
I corresponded with had a whole bunch of V10P stuff that he sold
me as a package; grinder, change gears , Uni quadrant, stop,
Thread dial... The guy who sold me the grinder said that he
used it twice. I am not sure when I would use it. But now
that I have it I will have to think of a reason.

Good luck with the Shumatech. I often curse the Chinese scales
They have too many idiosyncracies. I can understand why no
one who used a lathe professionally would use a chinese-scale
based DRO. They are prone to failure. You can just get
a chinese 6 inch caliper for 15 dollars, modify it with a dremel
tool and you are set. Long ~28inch chinese scales are comparable
in cost to glass qudrature scales.

Yes indeed the fiber gears are much quieter than the steel ones.
My super 11 is very noticeably noiser.

I have the dvd on making a gears which involves making a gear hob.
Pretty straightforward.

Have you tried Boston gear? It is possible that you could get
gears that would work but may need modification of the bore.

Good luck,.

-Almus
Re: Steady rest for S11

 

On 4/19/2006 at 12:22 AM Richard W. Remington wrote:

The Metal Lathe Accessories (www.mlatoolbox@...)Steady rest works
well on the S11, as
does the rear mounted cutoff tool post.
Oh good - I was looking at that, but it said 12" swing and up, been meaning to ask

--
Regards,
Rich
================================
Richard Kleinhenz


================================
Steady rest for S11

Richard W. Remington
 

The Metal Lathe Accessories (www.mlatoolbox@...)Steady rest works
well on the S11, as
does the rear mounted cutoff tool post. I agree on the follower rest--
I have had one on order with Blue Ridge for over 6 Mo. I give them a
call every month to remind them of my back order.
Why replace the S10 gears with fibre? It would not be as quiet with
metal gears but more rugged. Prehaps replaceing the 2 or3 final drive
gears with metal would help.
Re: V10 parts and accessories...

Charles Morrill
 

Thanks for your reply Almus.

> I have yet to strip a gear.
How do you plan to make the gears? are you going to buy
a gear cutter set? or are you going to make a hob? If you
figure out the gear dimensions and specs I would be
grateful if you were to share them with me. I would
like to have that information "just in case"
I was planning on purchasing a gear cutter from Blue Ridge as they probably
know exactly what I'll need. Was thinking of pressing the Sheldon shaper into
use, but I don't think a single point tool will cut the fiber all that well.
I've been told the fiber was used to cut down on noise, but I'm not sure this
is so.
As regards the Shumatech DRO...I think you're right about the cost but I've always
wanted to build one and have an extra six inch Chinese scale left over from another
project. What the heck, it's kind of fun to get out the soldering iron.
Speaking of Emco stuff, do you know if EMCO made a single version of their
toolpost grinder, or several? There's one on ebay now and I'm wondering if it would
work for the V10-p
Many thanks.

Waumbek
Re: V10 parts and accessories...

almus_kenter
 

--- In emcoV10lathe@..., "Charles Morrill"
<chasfred2002@...> wrote:

...Lots of interesting stuff.
Hi Charles. Thanks for the long post about V10p.

I have three emco lathes, C8, V10P and Super-11.
They obviously have a common heritage and many of
the parts are interchangeable. I guess this
is why I ended up with three lathes. My C8 spindle
accessories fit my V10P. The whole S11 compound would
fit the V10P; the mount spacings are the same.
I got tired of looking for accessories and then
bought a S11; D1-4 mount and 5c collets open up
a new world of options.

My v10p still has a functioning switch and electrics.
If the motor/switch were to die I would go to a VFD and
a 3 phase motor. The 3ph motors are readily available
in the US at ~120.00-150.00. The motor is a standard
European frame.

Blue Ridge has 3ph motors for the lathe for ~360.00. OUCH!

I have yet to strip a gear.
How do you plan to make the gears? are you going to buy
a gear cutter set? or are you going to make a hob? If you
figure out the gear dimensions and specs I would be
grateful if you were to share them with me. I would
like to have that information "just in case"



I have built two Shumatechs DROs and I have one mounted
on my mill and I am half done mounting one to my V10P.
I would be interested to see how you mount your scales
to your machine. Similarly, I would be glad to show you
how I will do mine. I have the X axis done and
am planning/doing the y axis (cross slide) now.
Are you using glass/quadrature scales? or the
Chinese scales?
I have all the parts to build a third Shumatech.
In my opinion, the Chinese scales and cables are the
weakest point of the Shumatechs. Also given the time and effort
and cost of making the shumatech, it is not clear it
is that great a deal. The folks over at the shumatech
group seem to worship the things.... I think they are
pretty good but if I had to do it over again, I might
try to find a used "name brand". The Shumatechs have
their quirks. A set of glass scales (Jenix) for the
V10P/S11 cost about 330.00 (6 inch + 28 inch).
Plus the Jenix scales are BIG; not a problem for
the x axis but a PIA for the y.


Good luck and let us know if you stumble across
any EMCO treasure troves.

-Almus
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