I see that Enco has the 8" Bison with D1-4 back for $318 plus tax, free shipping. I am no longer floored by the prices of these things and realized I consider it a bargain now... may go for it. Darn thing is 38 lb!

On 4/15/2006 at 1:44 PM almus_kenter wrote:

I think Bison stuff is great. I have their set-tru 5c
collet chuck. In fact, If I didn't ahve a EMCO 3J
I would get a bison #J set tru; great support, spare parts,
jaws, etc...
I will check the weights of the 3j versus the 4j

--
Regards,
Rich
================================
Richard Kleinhenz


================================

Is that $270 new or used? Sounds like an excellent price! How much was the resistor?

I know mine won't fit into the lathe - you probably don't have the 'safety electric' version - in that one all the space is taken up with the extra relays etc

On 4/15/2006 at 1:33 PM almus_kenter wrote:

What VFD do you have? I understand some VFDs have the control

circuit built in so externally you just need a passive resistor.

I only need a passive resistor. My VFD is a Westinghouse-TECO.
I have one one for my mill as well; I like having the "shared
heritage" for the benefit of the learning curve.

I paid 270.xx for it. So far I think it is great, Like Dave
I manged to get mine inside the back of the lathe.

--
Regards,
Rich
================================
Richard Kleinhenz


================================

I have a V10P lathe as well as my S11...OK I confess
I also have a compact 8..(but I am getting rid of it)

I have the 4J for the V10P; it is beautiful. It is light-weight
/narrow bodied. It is nominally 6". In fact it is one of
the main reasons that I am keeping the V10P lathe; 'cause
I have a 4J that fits it.

I don't think that the S11 would have any problem with
an 8" 4J. In fact I would only get one smaller
if it were a great deal. The V10P +i think+ is < 1hp.

I think Bison stuff is great. I have their set-tru 5c
collet chuck. In fact, If I didn't ahve a EMCO 3J
I would get a bison #J set tru; great support, spare parts,
jaws, etc...
I will check the weights of the 3j versus the 4j

-A

What VFD do you have? I understand some VFDs have the control

circuit built in so externally you just need a passive resistor.

I only need a passive resistor. My VFD is a Westinghouse-TECO.
I have one one for my mill as well; I like having the "shared
heritage" for the benefit of the learning curve.

I paid 270.xx for it. So far I think it is great, Like Dave
I manged to get mine inside the back of the lathe.

-ALmus

On 4/14/2006 at 7:19 PM Richard Kleinhenz wrote:

And I also came across the term semi-steel as I am looking
for info on chucks.

Found out what semi-steel is. Apparently can be good but not necessarily...

--
Regards,
Rich
================================
Richard Kleinhenz


================================

On 4/14/2006 at 7:19 PM Richard Kleinhenz wrote:

What's 'C1'?

OOPS that's CI not C1 and abbr. for Cast Iron I bet :-)

--
Regards,
Rich
================================
Richard Kleinhenz


================================

Thanks for the info

What's 'C1'? And I also came across the term semi-steel as I am looking for info on chucks.

On 4/15/2006 at 12:37 AM Frank Hasieber wrote:
Rich I think the S11 could take it, at the spindle bore you have the
spindle could very well be the same as the V13, which would mean the same
bearings, Steel bodied? No they aren’t, some have CI bodies, on the V10,
NO, I think this would be pushing it, (but the S11 appears to be more than
an upgrade to the V10, more like a cross between the V10 and V13, but I
have never seen an S11 in real life,) this thing is heavy, and you don’t
want to drop it on your toes! At maximum safe opening the jaws clear the
bed of the V13, but at 13” swing this has extra center height compared to
the S11, I will measure the max OD across the jaws at maximum opening and
get back to you, I had a thought, I will check on whether or not I can get
the body for the turret stop flame cut and how much it will cost, shipping
costs could be the problem, but others might be interested if the price is
right.

--
Regards,
Rich
================================
Richard Kleinhenz


================================

开云体育

Almus,
I don't know exactly. The main problem is that it requires more than a passive resistor - the control circuitry is NOT part of my VFD - it's external. There has to be a DC bus voltage sensor, and control that switches in the resistor. Along with some fuses, thermal protection etc. I've done a little reading, and this is a well-known trap apparently, and a lucrative captive market for the drive manufacturer.

What VFD do you have? I understand some VFDs have the control circuit built in so externally you just need a passive resistor.

Don't know whether I can find out resistor specs. I have a feeling knowing the DC bus voltage (which I can measure) and the horse power of the motor I should be able to calculate both resistance and wattage. V^2/R is the power so if I know how high the voltage rises and ... well, never mind, it doesn't matter ;-) I'm not about to design a control circuit

On 4/14/2006 at 11:15 AM almus_kenter wrote:

What is the spec on the resistor that you need?
How many watts, ohms?

--
Regards,
Rich
================================
Richard Kleinhenz


================================

On 4/14/2006 at 10:46 PM Frank Hasieber wrote:
Rich, the 4 jaw chuck for my V10 is 150mm/6”, Bison chucks are excellent
and reasonably priced. Oops! Just done a Google, the smallest they make is
8”. The V13 has an 8”, but for speeds of 2500rpm you should have a steel
bodied chuck.

Steel-bodied as opposed to ? Aren't they all?

So can you tell me how far the jaws stick out on the 8"? Of course one will always rotate by hand first, so I don't really know why I'm concerned. Biggest concern I think is the mass of an 8", is it a match for the S11. Would you consider putting the 8" onto the V10?

--
Regards,
Rich
================================
Richard Kleinhenz


================================

开云体育

开云体育

--- In emcoV10lathe@..., Richard Kleinhenz <richk@...> wrote:

I just called Reliance about the cost for the braking resistor. I

nearly fainted when I heard a number over $300!!! This thing is a
little more than the resistor, there is also the control logic that
gets it into the circuit when the DC bus voltage goes up. I
understand that some drives have the logic in the drive, and the
resistor is the only external part. But looking around I still see
this as a really high $ item. Wow!!! My drive cost me $80... it's
used, of course, and there's no way I'll stumble across a specialized
accessory like that. Still hard to swallow the price!

m
================================

What is the spec on the resistor that you need?
How many watts, ohms?

-Almus

I just called Reliance about the cost for the braking resistor. I nearly fainted when I heard a number over $300!!! This thing is a little more than the resistor, there is also the control logic that gets it into the circuit when the DC bus voltage goes up. I understand that some drives have the logic in the drive, and the resistor is the only external part. But looking around I still see this as a really high $ item. Wow!!! My drive cost me $80... it's used, of course, and there's no way I'll stumble across a specialized accessory like that. Still hard to swallow the price!

On 4/8/2006 at 7:19 PM davedamouth wrote:

--- In emcoV10lathe@..., Richard Kleinhenz <richk@...> wrote:

Are you using what's referred to as a 'snubber resistor' in my VFD

manual? Had you tried without that and found you needed it, or is it
something that is just generally recommended and should always be used?

Not sure on the terminology your manual is using. All but the very
cheapest vfd's can usually use a braking resistor. It's a large
resistor that will attach to an extra set of terminals. Allows for
much faster deceleration than just the drive transistors. At 30 rpm,
a 1/2 second braking ramp will stop the spindle in 1/4 revolution.

I use them wherever possible. If something is going wrong, I want the
spindle to stop quickly. Even changing the work in and out of the
chuck goes quicker when you don't need to wait for it to stop.

--
Regards,
Rich
================================
Richard Kleinhenz


================================

--- In emcoV10lathe@..., Richard Kleinhenz <richk@...> wrote:

I wonder if Emcos or specifically Super11s have a reputation for

leaking oil? I found a little puddle, but I can't exclude transport
or some of the strange manipulations to get it in place. Of course I
am keeping my eyes open from now on.


I thought I had a leak in my V10 QC gearbox, and it turned out that
it was just over-filled. I looked at the parts diagrams
and there was no indication of a seal where the lead screw
and power feed shafts come through.. The oil level was
above where the shaft(s) came through, and it would leak
very slowly

The headstock has a inspection window for checking the
lubrication level but the QC gear box does not..
If the previous owner was a little too enthusiastic
in fixing up the lathe he may have over filled it.

-Almus

开云体育

Thanks, Dave! I took the handwheel into the shop at work and one of the guys welded it :-) Works perfectly again.

* REPLY SEPARATOR *

On 4/12/2006 at 12:57 AM davedamouth wrote:

I received an email from loffy770.

"You can get new original handwheels from pro machine tools in UK.

I bought a number of them over time."

I don't have contact info, just wanted to pass along the option.

--
Regards,
Rich
================================
Richard Kleinhenz


================================

I received an email from loffy770.

"You can get new original handwheels from pro machine tools in UK.

I bought a number of them over time."

I don't have contact info, just wanted to pass along the option.


--- In emcoV10lathe@..., Richard Kleinhenz <richk@...> wrote:

I broke the handwheel on my new (used) S11 tailstock by dropping

it... Does anyone know about a generic replacement, or where would I
get it - does BlueRidge stock parts, or will they get them, or do I go
to Enco - here in the US or in Austria?

--
Regards,
Rich
================================
Richard Kleinhenz


================================

--- In emcoV10lathe@..., Richard Kleinhenz <richk@...>
wrote:

It occurred to me that instead of routing the incoming through the

red rotary switch, if I bypassed that switch and instead put the switch
in series with the power-on low-voltage line to the VFD that might be a
better arrangement. This would use the electric brake when I hit the
switch.

That would work. I suppose for the ultimate in control when threading
up to a shoulder, you could also create a really nice circuit with a
mometary contact, like a jog button. In parallel with the existing
circuit, wire a mometary contact. When depressed, it stays active
until you release it. Releasing a button just before the collision is
much more likely to happen than turning a switch. I hate single phase
motors on lathes for that reason. They only reverse after coming to a
complete stop. Trying to run up to a shoulder, it's easy to get overly
nervous and throw the switch past off and into reverse. At which
point, it continues forward no matter how hard you twist the knob. Not
pretty....

Well, I have a master disconnect in the form of a switch in front of the VFD which allows me to disconnect all power to the machine for service work without having to run to the elec. panel and hit the circuit breaker.

It occurred to me that instead of routing the incoming through the red rotary switch, if I bypassed that switch and instead put the switch in series with the power-on low-voltage line to the VFD that might be a better arrangement. This would use the electric brake when I hit the switch.

On 4/10/2006 at 10:18 AM davedamouth wrote:

Yes. In order to be a real safety circuit, the power to the drive
needs to be interupted. Might not be foremost on the minds of a
hobbyist, but interupting a logic circuit while leaving the drive
powered is haphazard.

Now that you're learning about the multitude of commands and inputs,
anything becomes possible. If you prefer a single pushbutton to
cancel any speed or direction, toss one on. You can use the safety
interlock to do it, but be sure to leave an alternate master
disconnect. (a plug intead of hardwiring would suffice for the home shop)

--
Regards,
Rich
================================
Richard Kleinhenz


================================