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Anyone know where is the best place to purchase change gears for a V10P would be? Or is it better to buy commercial gears and make them fit? Eric

wrote: Try Blue Ridge. They might have them. But I would recommend that you call them several times to get them to check. Otherwise watch and wait on ebay. I have a full set for my V10P. -Almus

Thanks Almus, I spoke with Blueridge on some other parts mostly handles & division collars (measurement - not sure of the correct term)... Not inexpensive. I thought there might be another source.

I added two photos in regard to my Hardinge QC tool post in the photos section under my folder 'Dan Falck'. The first photo is a shot of one of the tool holders getting milled for a lower center

wrote: There is a video that shows how to make gears with a hobb. I forgot the name of the guy who does it. I have a copy of the thing. Not very professional in regards to the editting, but the

I am still looking for a manual for the S11. If anyone has a decent copy I would gladly pay costs for copy/mailing. The Blue Ridge ones are way too crappy to pay 25.00 for. -Almus Kenter

Glad I am not the only one that thinks Blueridge is expensive. I thought of buying standard gears and machining the bore. Eric wrote: correct

Almus, there is a pic in the photo section of the VFD installed in the stock electrical panel. I managed to use the stock switches. Let me know if I need to summarize how I arranged the jumpers on the

Thanks for the interesting photo. The vendor who sold me the VFD said the worst thing I could do was to turn the lathe off then on with the switch while the VFD was on. Turning it off was fine but

The vendor is right. You don't want to switch downstream of the drive. I routed the power going to the drive through the safety disconnect. The barrel switch has been reconfigured to switch the the

- Thanks Dave. I will look at the specs for the VFD this evening. Do you have wiring diagrams for the S11? I am trying to avoid buying manuals from BR as the stuff I got from them before looked like

Almus- The diagram is in the pics section, and the text file is in the files section. The only factory wiring diagram I have is the little 4 inch one glued to the inside of the electrical panel. Did

1 person running 2 auctions for 2 fixed up pretty machines and 1 ugly machine. Item # 7599599147 Item # 7599600615 Item # 4447527001 The person running the first 2 has 2 chucks listed also. The first

I saw all the listings. The guy wants quite a bit for the machines completely bare; not even a 3jaw. The third machine seems to have abunch of goodies but it looks a bit more used. However it is

The longer I stare at it, the more potential the dirty one has. Might clean up pretty nicely. Looks like a quick change toolpost. That would be really useful. I'll even help offset the cost. Figured

- If the ways are not bunged up I bet it would clean up real well. I think it is a much better deal than the the ones that have *NOTHING* for 3250.00 ---they don't even have a toolpost. If it were

Well I broke down and purchased a Chinese AXA / 100 QCTP. Built a riser block for it to mount to. Used a 9/16 UNF x 6" bolt (turned into a stud) for mounting. There is a picture if anyone is

Thanks Dave, Your diagram is very instructive. The EMCO wiring diagram for the switch (B1) is crazy confusing. I plan on hooking up tomorrow. It seems that most of the VFDs are very similar. Common

Also.... Dave, I was impressed that you got your VFD in to the lathe electrical enclosure. Mine won't fit. I also have a different electrical set up; no red E off switch and I also have a long

I used to have one of those. It's in a box with all the fuses and starters and whatnot. A word of caution: One of the barrel switches on mine require removal of the electrical panel to get to the