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A frustrating problem that manifested itself in a non-repeatable way. Sharing here so as to help anyone else encountering this issue. The ME1115 would fail to start with the below error: DSP Encoder Fault 0x52C1 Encoder Input wire-off is detected This motor has a small sensor used to measure the position of the rotor: RMB29AC01SS1 *There is a small compartment on the end of the motor, opposite the drive shaft, housing this sensor. This sensor had started to corrode. A new sensor had to be ordered and installed to resolve. See attached picture. I used GE All Purpose Silicon to reseal the sensor compartment. Ryan R. Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone

44 ft catamaran Max prop easy18 in diameter 4 blade pitch is adjustable 16 to 24 degrees 72 volt 18 kw motor, max RPM 2500 Reductions =90-tooth bottom pulley 28-tooth top pulley = 3.21:1 ratio 39.5ft waterline- hull speed is close 7.8 to 8.4 knots I think the reduction is too much, I would like advice on what to set the pitch to.

I would recommend checking out the ePropulsion outboards. I first bought an Elco 9.9 and was not happy with the noise and low efficiency. I then bought an ePropulsion Navy 6.0, which is much quieter, and much more efficient with its' larger 3 bladed props. The Elco is basically built on the bottom unit of a small-propped gas outboard, and loses efficiency in the 90 degree turn from the drive shaft to the prop, whereas the ePropulsion is a more modern design, with direct drive motor underwater that the prop is directly attached to. There are lower kW units that would be cheaper than the 6.0 that would be appropriate for your smaller (displacement?) boat.

Guys, I'm building a 12 foot cat dinghy. I'm probably going to go with the Elco outboard but thinking of a longtail type inboard instead. I haven't been following motors for a couple of years. Looking for a 3-5 kw brushless motor and controller. Please let me know of which motor you guys would pick. Thanks, Jerry Barth

Hi all, I've just completed building an electric-powered boat, and upon wiring up the batteries found that the voltage at the end of the line (electric outboard power plug) is higher than expected. My battery bank is four (4) 24v / 75 Ah lithium ion (LiFePO) batteries, wired with two pairs of batts each wired in parallel, and then series connecting the pairs, which should produce a nominal 48 volts output. The meter however reads 58.3 volts, which is higher than the combined "fully charged" voltage "should"(?) be. Since my outboard (Karvin 6800) has a maximum input voltage of 55 volts, this creates a puzzle. Am I missing something? Do I need to add a component to reduce the output voltage of the batteries? Etc... Any advice much appreciated, Jim

Hello, I have a thunderstruck motor system Ac34 kit in my sailboat. I recently had a failed contractor and seem to have fried the motor controller. (Curtis 1238-5601) I was getting error message 37 “motor open”. I spoke with Bill over at HPEVS, when I told him the leads from controller to motor tested good, he right away suspected the controller. He was going to have me send it in to them to see if they could fix it, but when I told him I could hear something rattling around inside he said sounds like a fried MOSFET and suggested I send it to FSIP in Pa. FSIP will ONLY do a full reconditioning for $1200.00, tempting as it will come back like new condition with a one year warranty. But I was curious if anyone knows a place that might just fix what is broken and cost much less, or if any one has opened up the case of one of the Curtis controllers and had any luck replacing burned out mosfet’s. I think FSIP’s price to rebuild will be the same even if I was to mess up up even further! Thank you for any help you can offer! Anton

Hi all. FOR PICKUP OR DROPOFF ONLY - San Jose, CA and South Bay area PLEASE TAKE ALL OR NOTHING - feel free to resell/gift what you don't want. I have all the parts from a Columbia 8.3 repower that never happened ... we moved from NY to CA and sold the boat. 10 years later and it's past time to give these parts to someone who can use it for a project :-) Pickures below .... Sized for 3/4" shaft, extension, key, coupling and collars are 316L, the rest of the metal is 6061-T6 aluminum. Sketch shows how everything was intended to go together and mount in the motor bay ... all bolts (not included) for easy install and allignment. Please message me if interested, hope this doesn't violate group rules. Thanks. --Tim

Hello! I have an Allmand Sail 31 sailboat and I removed its motor to convert it to electric. I would like to share my ideas and listen to recommendations from people with more experience before making purchases. Engine: I want to buy the 10KW or the 12KW thunderstruck-ev.com motor kit, I would like to know what you recommend. When I removed the old motor I took out everything it had, including the cooler and the pump, the truth is that everything was in poor condition. Now that I am going to buy the electric motor, if I choose the solution with liquid cooling I would have to buy the entire cooling system, and if I choose the air-cooled version it is not much of a problem because I have 2 new blowers that I was thinking of installing for an air conditioning but that idea was cancelled. Does anyone have the 10KW air cooled motor? Have any problem? I also plan to buy the support with the 2:1 reduction (although I don't know why when I go to buy it says 2.67:1?) Batteries: My idea is to build a battery bank with 16 Lifepo4 320 AH batteries and a 250A BMS. Read experiences about it? Charger: 5000W Solar Inverter (already purchased) It is this: https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256803396031941.html 12V: My idea is to have a common 12V battery and a DC-DC Converter that I already bought, this is the 60A version: https://www.aliexpress.us/item/2251832330206798.html Thank you very much for your support, and I will tell you about the whole process here and also on my YouTube channel that I started to allocate to this project. Cheers! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vkq-EcKeYjA&t=112s I appreciate your subscription and like, which helps with the YouTube algorithm.

Hello! I have a Ac34 system with a cutis controller from thunderstruck motors on my sail boat. https://www.thunderstruck-ev.com/ac-34-w-1238-5601-clone-en-2.html After being away from the boat for around six weeks, I turned the switch and I heard a loud pop and saw a flash in the engine compartment… The controller gave an error 39. Error: 39 Main Contactor Did Not Close After I replaced the contacter, it makes it’s usual click quickly followed by a second click and now I get error 37: Motor Open 1) Motor phase is open 2) Bad crimps or faulty wiring Set: Motor phase U, V or W detected open Clear: Cycle KS I cleaned contacts for the three cables coming from controller to motor and continuity tested good, but still getting the error 37. The spare contractor I had on hand is not as beefy as the previous one and is possibley not rated correctly for the system, I have ordered a new one. In the meantime are there tests I can do on the motor to make sure that there is not an issue with it as I wait for new contactror? My google searches have come up with some multi meter tests but seem spacific to particular motors. Any help would be greatly appreciated, I am missing out on the sailing days I waited the whole foggy summer for here on the San Francisco Bay …! Thank you! Anton Herbert

What are people's thoughts on the use of NMC versus LFP on a boat, for propulsive power? NMC has considerably better energy density (by mass), but of course is less safe from a thermal-runaway standpoint. The supplier I'm considering says the 'flash point' of his cells is 400C ("close to LFP" he says), but I see more like 300C for NMC and 500C for LFP (round numbers). I'm attracted to the better energy density of NMC, but don't want to endanger our lives by moving to it.

Hello group! Recently installed the 10kw Thunderstruck sailboat kit on my Cal-29. Everything works great but literally 3 days after installation got these massive rust deposits on the lower shaft pulley and belt. Wondering if anyone might have some suggestions if I need to grease the pulley or spray it with anticorrosive? The boat is in free water in a river. It’s not the driest of boats but generally pretty dry. Not sure why the rust would kick in so soon? TIA! Anton -- Best Regards, Anton Slutsky, Ph.D.

Hello all, Kicking around replacing my 32 "group 31" AGM's aboard Retreat Time and would appreciate some input. So many choices! Does anyone have a top three list?

Installed both ME1616 liquid cooled systems and have Curtis code - throttle disabled because encoder sensor is not detected. Does anyone have experience replacing or repairing this part? If so, please share. Thanks John

A question to those of you who no longer have an ICE with altenator and therefore no engine negative bus for attaching a 12 VAC safety ground (green) wire to: where are you now connecting your AC safety ground wire? Best practice seems to be to isolate our 48+ VDC propulsion system's electrical components; but are you grounding any non-current carrying components of your 48+ VDC system or of your 12 VDC boat and/or 12 VDC propulsion system control and monitoring sub-system? If you are, to what ultimately are you connecting these ground lines? I've been communicating with technical support at ABYC to get clarifications of their standard E-11, but I'm curious about what people are actually doing out there. Thanks! [-tv] Thomas VanderMeulen "Grace O'Malley" Cape Dory 27 Montroe, MI

My 19 foot sailboat uses a Minn-Kota Endura 55 supplied by two 100Ah AGM batteries. I do have shore power, but would like to be as self-sufficient as possible. I have a semi-flexible 100 watt solar panel, but finding a good method for mounting it has eluded me. I also have a Victron MPPT solar controller, but it has not had anything connected to it for several years. I recently read an article describing arrays of floating solar panels, so wondered if that concept could be my mounting - or non-mounting - solution. I don't know about the long-range suitability of my components for being partially or totally submerged, but the initial test showed promise and the batteries appeared to be charging normally. The marina staff took notice, but did not sound an alarm. I would appreciate any input from those with more experience as to whether there would be any hazards this system might produce. With an exercise mat bonded to the backside, it floats in my slip next to the boat and I have no connection to shore power. I previously tested it at a beach with some wave action. Water washing over the panel did not appear to reduce the voltage output appreciably. Not a problem within the marina, but this could be important if used at anchor or on a mooring. Other particulars: Suaoki module, rated 17.8V at 5.62A; Voc 21.6V; Isc 5.97A.

This electric jetski got good reviews. https://www.taigamotors.com Priced at $18k. Has a 24 kwh lifepo4 pack. The battery must be almost half the cost. If you could figure out how to hook it to boat pack you could tow this "range extender" off the back of the big boat. When you get low on boat power take some from it. When the bad guys come for you you do like James Bond and hop on it with your supermodel girlfriend and escape to cocktails. Seriously it would be great to have at my off grid house to supplement the house pack. No info on website about pack voltages although probably too high based on the motor is 160kw and you can get it with DC fast charging. Jerry Barth

I am exploring the possibility of building my own electric pod motor for a sailboat. Boat is 5+ tons. What are the motors used in pods? Brushless, with reduction gear? Preferably 10KWh, compact 48vdc 130 / 160 amp max draw, and shaft RPM would be in the range of 1800. Regen would be nice, I assume that is dependant on the motor control. Thanks in advance!

Thank you both. Capt.Carter gave a pretty convincing pitch there. I will look for a motorcycle chain lubricant if not the exact PJ1 product Darryl found. Ryan R. Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone

I realized that I've been using some CALB SE100 cells in my little pack for 6 years now. When I bought the cells, they were old stock from Genasun, so I'm not sure what their manufacturing date was. It's possible they could even be 10 years old. The pack sees gentle service (typical load 0.2C, max 0.4C, charging 0.1C) on my little WR16 trimaran, and was previously powering a 6m proa. I've never actually run it down yet (always prefer to sail), but it sits at near full charge for a month or two each summer when the boat sits in the yard with one 100W panel connected (through MPPT controller). I store it at about 50% SOC, no charging, no loads except BMS (no balancing) over the winters. I've really enjoyed building and using this pack. I wonder how long the cells will last? Is it possible that one of the cells will suddenly degrade, or will it just 'mellow' for many more years? Does anyone else have experiences to comment from?

Hi All, I did a thunderstruck 10kw conversion on my Catalina 30 a few years ago. I am using the gear reduction plate and the chain coupler. I have noticed the chain coupler had gotten quite rusty. Anyone using a grease or other lubricant on this part? *attached pic of chain coupler. Ryan R. Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone