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Thanks, Tommy.This is THE way to do it ! By the pro's. But not many ordinary boat owners would do so...;-(

You could do color coding with electrical tape. In high voltage ac panels will have at the terminations red, orange or yellow wrapped on the wire to identify high voltage. You could just make a legend

Printed plastic labels have a tendency to peel off. Leaving you clueless.When they ARE in (the correct) place, it is good ! I bought a swedish boat, labelled extensively by the former DIY owner.But

That’s a good one, I’ll make good use of the label maker this week. ;-) I’m going to add “always use a multimeter to verify your assumptions about the circuit before beginning work.”

A general warning at the electrical panel stating that "This boat has 12 and 48 volt buss bars. Dan

Seams as if there should be color codes for ac/ DC48 and dc12 for pos/ and neg On Sat, Mar 27, 2021 at 2:03 PM, Ryan Sweet<ryan@...> wrote: Typo, hopefully obvious “48v or 12v” Why do we

Great info in that thread from Boatdesign.net but no conclusions for smaller vessels (<12T). Most of the links in the thread are old and go to 404. But still useful stuff. This stood out in the Mike

Hello, I used this type of flexible shaft coupling. It's very easy to install and align. I still have vibrations but pretty sure it's either the cutlass, shaft or prop. Or all three, will try to fix

Typo, hopefully obvious “48v or 12v” Why do we still use asdf keyboard layouts on thumb driven mobile phones? Sigh.

For those of you that have 12v systems and 48v systems, is there a standard or convention for making it really clear that a given bus bar is 48v or 12c? Mine are in very different places in the boat

Carsten, That would actually be a great idea!? Not likely to a huge scale, but there are a few of us wanting to use a good thrust bearing / thrust plate solution. I would certainly buy one that was

The double spherical roller bearing from grainger looks fine.Even a smaller bearing than the shown will be fine for your 12KW motor... I found an old thread in boatdesign.net. Please see reply #6 from

I will just give an interesting other point of view. Not sure if I can really recommend it, but for me it works. When I bought my boat it came with a 55hp yanmar. On the shaft just behind the gearbox

Dan, Carsten and others, I'm in somewhat of the same boat as Dan, considering the trailer hub.? I was (and still am) concerned about the forces -- trailer hubs are designed for PRIMARILY radial

Hello, I am poking around different shaft coupling ideas.? Has anyone used anything like this to reduce noise, alignment, vibration?

Carsten, Thank you!? I've found good bearings, but have no idea how to get them into a usable configuration. I've sketched out several ideas, but, unlike Dan, I don't have a lathe.? I agree that it

Some more on thrust bearing specifications... My boat came with a Volvo 23HP diesel and a Walter RV-10D v-drive that contained the thrust bearing. The Walter RV-10 is specified for 2HP/100rpm or 48hp

Carsten, Thanks for the useful details. I have googled it. Many hours spent. I should have said I was a hobbyist, not a novice. I don't have the knowledge on materials but I have some experience with

Dan, 34CrNiMo6 is for hard working shafts, and easy to machine in properly sized lathe, given the right treatment is done before machining.It is NOT stainless steel, and thus, not prone to

Nice setup, Steve !You wrote :??"places the biggest bearing where it will take the forward thrust".Ther might be situations, where you will need the use of full reverse (when anchoring), but