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Interesting, Jeff !
12V sucked from 48V, without an inverter ! Thumbs up !
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In your intended setup of your battery banks, do you use 1 common BMS, or 1 on each (48V) battery ?
How about redundancy, if a common BMS fails ? (= no power at all.)
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Another thing, how about making the motor wattage output adjustable, so it is possible to use eg. 96V for a burst mode ? Many 48V motors can be powered by 96V (or higher).
I assume that the wiring can handle that. Making two sets of banks 48V, to be serial connected to 96V.
The short "event" should of course be managed by the BMS/power management system.
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i'm wondering if this new Li-battery technology is becoming a little too advanced for sailing now...
Safety first, when out on the water, right ? We can't just park the boat at the curb and call a cab when out on the blue.
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To be true, things made in China is not my cup of tea, but in these days, unfortunately simply unavoidable !
I was a supervisor in China for several years, and know how they make things, and all of QC is not like in the West.
Buy a ME1616 electromotor. Made in China, then sold in the West.
Buy yourself a german or US car. Half of the smaller parts in it are made in China by now.
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Company supervisors are not in China now, because of the Made in China virus.
Who wants to spend 2-4 weeks in quarantine to go for an inspection ??
Who's checking the quality now ?
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However, I believe that new, checked, LiFePO4 batteries will last my sailing life out, but the electronics is another concern.
Especially in a marine environment (humid and salty).
Can you provide recommendations where to setup these (rather large) electronic regulators/inverters/BMS'es in the boat ?
I guess IP rating is not relevant, if not encapsuled in IP-rated boxes.
If put into boxes, then there's a cooling issue...
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Working hard on the ultimate solution for my own EMS/Y system conversion design.
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Cheers, guys
Carsten
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Hint : EMS/Y = Electric Motor Sailing Yacht ;-)
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