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I think 80% is optimistic. There is more torque when full stepping is used. I believe micro-stepping reduces the torque which is why the GECKO drives change over to full step after the resonance point

Thanks, John, Yes, measuring how much torque it actually takes is a good idea! I think the lowest speed on the Stark mill, which doesn’t have a back gear, is around 200rpm, so a 20-tooth gear would

New version of the DDCS v CNC controller. Check out further info via Facebook DDCS .1. 2.1 3.1? contact Jessy Chen. -- John

I use a ShuttleExpress on my CNC Router. Love it. Much easier to use than a pendant from China which I also have. A friend has the larger Shuttle that has extra buttons. Not sure all those would be

New to CNC. I have a pokeys57 running a mini lathe. Took a while to get working. Now I would like to get away from a PC keyboard and mouse. I have been looking at many different MPGs. It seems that

Thanks everyone for the help, it really works. Richard my 12x36 lathe is undergoing a new motor mount so it is in pieces. I do have a 4x12 mini lathe, so I can work on that. The reversing lever will

Here's my video from almost 10 years ago. The single button step distance was set to the amount to turn. I drilled and tapped a number of mounting plates and holders to match the size 23 stepper

For "gear ratio" below replace with "number of teeth" Richard

If you just need the stepper to rotate the D head the you can easily check and see what actual torque is needed some sort of arm with a weight on the end keep increasing the radius until it rotates

Thanks, John - was that on the rotary table, or on your belt drive one? This is the highest rated Nema 17 I found, 2.3a should work with the little TB6560 driver recommended in the “Arduino rotary

All you are showing in your photo is the reversing lever for change-wheel operation. I assume there were two gears on those two nutted "rods" and the lever engaged one or the other with the gear on

Nice to be talking to you again ,Yes Arduino was not on my list in year 19 but has climbed to near the top of the list due to gear in my workshop namely Rotary mill table ,rotary welding head as well

If you want buttons to move the motor then this is one solution. (He said with tongue in cheek). http://www.autoartisans.com/ELS/ John Sent: February-04-20 4:47 PM To: [email protected]

I going to need some strange pulley arrangement. The stepper motor has a 8 mm (.315") shaft. The leadscrew has a 19.5mm (3/4") shaft. Of course my big lathe is in pieces so I might be challenged if I

I cut a 5x piece of angle iron and made up a base plate: https://www.makerguides.com/tb6600-stepper-motor-driver-arduino-tutorial/ It actually looks good, now I need to cut a slot to fasten the motor

Richard once again I do not know what you are referencing? " * just the reversing lever. Surelythere is another part to the change wheel setup"* I mounted a 5x angle iron, looks like it should work

I used a Nema 17 for many years, it worked vert well, changed to Nema 23 during the full mill conversion to CNC , thus making it a true 4th axis machine, -- John

I am surprised that is all you have, just the reversing lever. Surely there is another part to the change wheel setup? Maybe pivoting around the leadscrew? Richard

Thanks John, that's what I was looking for good solid working ideas. Of course Norton did not like the script embedded in your file I figured out how to override Norton. Ralph wrote:

I take it that section that is on the lead screw pointing forward can be pivoted up or towards the back? If so do that and then make a plate between it and the reverse/forward pivot and clamp it down.