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I am in Fort Smith Arkansas. The car is all original, no modifications or upgrades. The previous owner said the car was running when he parked it, (10 years ago). I have done nothing but clean it up. It does have the 6hp motor and I do have a clear title. Mileage is 4155. Thanks. Lloyd.

Hello All, I am moving and must sell my 1981 Comutacar but haven’t a clue as to what it worth. It needs brakes, batteries, and accelerator work. Any input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Lloyd.

It's worth noting I have a 77 transitional car. I lack the hump and bracing of a commutacar, so my batteries are under seat, controller in back like a Citicar, but I have the 6hp and running gear of a commutacar. Long story short, I did not change the location of the contactor, although I did change it's position a half inch or so. I'm glad to help with whatever I can during your conversion. It is much more pleasant to drive and I've put 1400 miles in a year on it with the conversion so far.

Dave, This is great. I see you moved them to the controller to the back of your rig. Mine in a 1980 is under the seat. Thanks for the pics, I'll be working on it more in the coming weeks. I'll be asking a lot more questions haha. Tony Perreault

My molding is shot. I did a search of the group hoping to find an easy answer but sounds like we need something custom. Any chance folks over ordered so there are extras available? Otherwise, I'd appreciate your thoughts on how I might move forward. This is not urgent, my 1980 car needs pretty much everything done, so this is just on the list. Thanks and be well. JL Johnson 1980 Lime ComutaCar Lees Summit, MO jlj4774@... #LimeEV @User47

I’m not very clear on how amps and amp hours work. Ultimately I looking for a clear answer. I have an all original Comutacars. I would love to go the 38mph and 40 mile range. But don’t want to spend $200 or 300. Per. Battery. Feel free to explain what I’m looking for or provide a link of what I need. Thanks in advance.

Hello, This email message is a notification to let you know that a file has been uploaded to the Files area of the C-Car group. File : /Batteries needed Uploaded by : justinbreal87@... <justinbreal87@...> Description : I need all 8 batteries without breaking the bank and with good range. You can access this file at the URL: https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/C-Car/files/Batteries%20needed To learn more about file sharing for your group, please visit: https://help.yahoo.com/kb/index?page=content&y=PROD_GRPS&locale=en_US&id=SLN15398 Regards, justinbreal87@... <justinbreal87@...>

Hi All, I've been working on my brakes on my 1980 ComutaCar--but I think the proportioning valve may be stuck. Here are the symptoms: I've flushed both brakes on the front, and now the right side locks up--but the driver side remains unchanged when someone presses on the brakes (I have the car jacked up). It took much longer to flush the driver side than the passenger side. Does that sound like what's happening? Any tips or tricks for unsticking it, or finding a replacement online? I don't know whether this is one of the generic parts that Sebring-Vanguard/Commuter V. Inc. used, or if it's one of the impossible-to-find parts... Thanks! - Jacob Field 1980 Gold ComutaCar

Hi All, Perhaps this is common knowledge--It seems like a lot of the brake parts for the drum brake cars came from Cushman Haulster brakes--I've had success finding brake shoes that look identical to mine by searching eBay for "Cushman Haulster Truckster brakes." I haven't ordered any yet, but a set of four can be found for around $50-$60 -- which seems like a good price compared to the evperformance website. (Here's an eBay link for 4, $44.45: https://www.ebay.com/itm/4-Set-Front-brake-SHOES-824573-cushman-HAULSTER-truckster/172036100835?hash=item280e2692e3:g:0i8AAOSw3KFWd~qD) I have other links as well, if anyone is interested--the above is simply the lowest price. I'm curious if anyone has discovered this and found out if the cushman haulster/truckster brakes are the same? They look identical... - Jacob Field 1980 Gold ComutaCar

"I have a hood on my Citicar that I just Pop open to get to the wiring, master cylinder, battery etc." I'm wondering if you could post pictures of your hood opening?

BobHenry, I have a brake pedal assembly, I will sell. Price is $10.00 plus shipping. I can send a pic if you want. Are you looking to replace the master cylinder with a original single reservoir or a newer double ?For a single, I have drilled hole in the filler cap, tapped it for quarter in. pipe , run a piece tygon tubing up along the left side dash and capped it off with a fitting To accept a pipe plug. When low, I remove plug and fill with a funnel. The tygon lets me see how full it is. I have lots of spare parts from 3 citicars. Sent from Mail for Windows 10

Hi all, thanks for the responses. I've bled them (of course). They all run free of bubbles (Except the one with the leaking cylinder), but the front brakes still have old rusty fluid in them, so I should probably flush them. I do have the dual cylinder (thank goodness), so it wasn't hard or expensive to replace. Bob, if your car has the dual-cylinder system, the master cylinder isn't too hard to find, and I have a part number for it. Nicholas, I do mean foot to the floor. I don't think the pedal actually touches the floor, but it goes as far as the master cylinder will mechanically allow it. I tried readjusting the brakes (front only) to be tighter (probably pretty close to 1 rev) and noticed that they drag unevenly. Is this normal? (I suspect the brake shoes are unevenly worn, since the brakes were (I think) pretty out-of-adjustment when I adjusted them. I do have sources for new shoes (I did a bunch of internet-sleuthing to find them), but they're still $50 for a set of 4, so I'd like to try working with the ones I have, first. Of course, tightening the brakes didn't help any. I think my next steps will be to flush the lines, maybe just by opening the bleeder on one at a time and letting the reservoir run down (I'll top it off now and then). I might also order a new set of rubber seals for the rear cylinder that's leaking, and go through taking the axle out and working around it all over again... For a long term solution, I think I'd like to somehow incorporate rudimentary regenerative or plug braking. Save expensive brake parts, and it would help the braking power of the car a lot. (Fun fact: If you have a contactor-based system, you're all set up for regenerative braking already. Just stick it in reverse while driving forwards, and apply the accelerator lightly! It worked for me, but I don't think the BMSs on my Li-ion batteries liked it a lot... Don't actually try this, since it's terribly uncontrolled and probably bad for your batteries.)

I have a hood on my Citicar that I just Pop open to get to the wiring, master cylinder, battery etc.

Hi All, When I bought my CCar, the brakes (while they worked) weren't good and I figured they could use some work. Here's what I've done so far: Replaced the master cylinder. I did bench-bleed it. (tried to) Rebuild the left rear brake cylinder. It was leaking, so I got it new rubber, honed it, and put it back together. It still leaks, but not as bad now... The internal metal piece was bent out of shape on the new rubber on the side that leaks (Still). I wonder if that it the cause of the leak. I adjusted all the brakes, though I've never done it before. They worked much better afterwards (testing the car at 1-5MPH rolling). Here's the problem--despite everything I've done, the brakes somehow manage to be worse than when I bought the car! Other than that leaking cylinder, I don't see anything wrong with the system. The pads and drums should be fine, the car has under 2K on it. Anyone have any tips for how to get the brakes back to working condition? (To give an idea of how bad they are: 10MPH, foot down to the floor, and the brakes do almost nothing. If I was on level ground, I might stop after 20-30 feet.) Thanks in advance! - Jacob Field 1980 Gold ComutaCar

I have had this happen alot in my car. It has a d&d motor 48v and an altrax axe controller. The wiring is all new in the whole car. It uses the stock forward reverse contractor. Sometimes when I hit the accelerator it will make a sound like a kazoo and the harder you press the louder it gets. I let off the accelerator and lightly get back on. This almost always stops this whine from continuing. It has been doing this for a thousand miles or so. I am not experiencing and problems but I am not sure what it could be. The controller is 600a and I have a 400a slow blow fuse attached to it. Any ideas what could make this noise. It is not terribly loud but you can hear it about the volume of someone talking quietly. Sent from my MetroPCS 4G LTE Android Device

Greetings C-Car friends. I recall when I joined the group there was a lot of chatter about a C-Car meetup in Florida. My wife and I travel quite a bit (kiddo too!) and are eyeing a quick trip back to Florida where I know these events tend to cluster. Are there any shindigs coming up? I regret we won't be able to bring #LimeEV, but I'd sure like to get my eyes on what everyone else has done and/or is doing to their own C-Cars. Thanks and be well, JL Johnson Lees Summit, MO JLJ4774@... @User47 / #LimeEV

Here is a link for a citicar for sale in Virginia. It's a 1975 https://www.ebay.com/itm/1975-CitiCar-Electric-Vehicle-Street-Legal-Golf-Cart-Project-Sebring-Vanguard/173867370195?hash=item287b4d86d3:g:CLUAAOSwl7pci5Bk

Hi folks. Kriss here from Normal, IL. I need to decide whether to get a new set of batteries for this year or sell my 1975 citicar. It is original with contactors, original charger, etc. Some body cracks. 48 volt. I got my last set from a guy that had some used up in Milwaukee. Also might be interested in a smart charger. The one in the car I think shortened the life of my current batteries. Thanks in advance. Kriss Davis 1975 citicar. Red.

Hi Frank The “Black Box” in the lower right attached to the fuse is the main contactor, (SU80) that turns on the electricity to all the components, its on that list of parts and prices I sent you. Bob

Hi Bob, I see another black box pictured in the lower part of the photo? What is that? Also, you mentioned you have some hand drawings, would you mind sharing them? Thanks again, Frank