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A friend sent the pic to me. The winner gets 5 1/2 tons of nickels delivered to there house, condo, apartment, or garage. Sent from my MetroPCS 4G LTE Android Device

Hello All, I am in the process of restoring a nice original 1976 Citicar for my wife. I have rebuilt the entire front and rear suspension, brakes, and rear end. Now comes my dilemma. I am very mechanically inclined but dangerous at best with electrical. I have 99% of the components needed like new controller, F/R contactors, etc. I am looking for any references for a place in the Buffalo, Rochester, or Syracuse area that could do the final wiring. Perhaps maybe even a fellow Citicar member would be interested in making some extra money :] I have tried 3 golf cart places near me but they never even heard of this car, which seemed odd, and they did not seem interest in doing the work either. So if anyone has any suggestions on a place or would be personally willing to wire it up feel free to contact me. Thanks in advance for any assistance. Regards, Frank

I have the citicar with the batteries under the seat. Anyone have a suitable cover for my car? Maybe a link? Bart

Hi all, I keep a regular eye on local craigslists for old EVs I can't afford, and recently stumbled across a 1980 blue Citicar. It's in East Wenatchee for $1850. Seller doesn't know much/anything about it, says it looks complete. Looks original from the few pictures, but who knows. Might have the optional factory radio, since there's an antenna mounting bracket on it. Just posting here in case anyone's interested: https://seattle.craigslist.org/see/cto/d/east-wenatchee-1980-citi-car/6784896717.html Jacob Field 1980 Gold ComutaCar The Dalles, Oregon

Good to know all that. I'm capacity testing the cells individually--I actually disassemble the laptop battery packs to salvage individual cells--so everything should be pretty close to balanced. The cells (18650 lithium cells, same as the Tesla Model S) are 3.7V nominal, and I have them configured in sets of 4 in series, each set has 3 in parallel to triple the AH and continuous A output. (Don't ask why I chose 4 cells in series instead of three, three would have been much easier and I'm considering changing how the packs are built once I get my 16 testing modules done). Each pack has a nominal voltage of 14.8V and a max A output of 15A based on the batteries being able to handle about 2C, and with the capacities I've been using they range from 6AH to 8AH. Based on the specs on the motor, and the starting resistor, I've optimistically guesstimated that I'll need ~90A to get started in the lowest speed. My 16 packs will put out 120A in the 2 lower speeds, and 60A in 48V speed. I have fuses inline with the packs, so I won't destroy any BMSs or batteries, I hope. I understand that 120-60A is not going to be enough to get going anywhere fast, but I hope it's enough to go around the block so I can get some current draw readings. I'll attach a few pictures of the packs I'm making. In the first, I'm testing a power distribution thing I made for the Aux battery, the second shows it installed in the CCar under the driver's seat. I'll need to make some holder so they don't slide around while driving. In terms of work though, I'm beginning to wonder if it would have been better to just get some pre-made module...

Hi Jacob and All, I'd be worried about used laptop cells in series/parallel as so out of balance and likely less capacity they would be hard to keep alive and need a very robust BMS to keep them together raising the cost. Used EV modules are likely cheaper and a lot less work. Volt modules are likely the best as cheapest, have 16C output and doesn't seem to need a BMS as so high quality. Another is the citicar is a heavy feeder of amps so you'll need a much larger pack of laptop cells which typically are 1C. You'll need an e controller of at least 450 amps or better, 600 amps. Being lighter you can take a leaf out of the leaf springs to soften the ride. Jerry Dycus

Good afternoon, everyone! I just joined the group, so I thought I'd give a little background on my CCar for anyone interested. I got my ComutaCar in June last year, from someone who'd bought it in non-working condition in 2002. He was interested in learning about alternative energy, so he did a partial restore and got it working again with lead-acid and the original contactors. I saw it sitting in his driveway, stopped to investigate, and ended up buying it from him for $350. (A steal that even a freshman in college like me can afford!) He was done with it, and wanted it to go to someone who was interested in doing more with it and learning about it and EVs. I did buy it without the batteries, though--I'm currently working on building it Li-ion packs from cells salvaged from old laptop battery packs. It's a slow process, it's getting close to being able to drive around the block, assuming my hopeful estimations about how much current it will draw are correct. There have also been a few non-battery things I've done to get it completely road-worthy: I replaced the Master Cylinder, and just rebuilt the left rear brake cylinder (I have parts links if anyone wants) Designed a 3D printed windshield washer nozzle, because the original was long gone Put a new (old, giant, loud, amp-eating) horn in, because the original horn was missing. Fixed the horn switch, because it was broken Attached are some pictures. If anyone here uses Instagram and is interested in following my progress, I have a blog for the CCar @explosive_golfcart. With Li-ion cells, that's pretty much what my CCar will be... Jacob Field 1980 Gold ComutaCar The Dalles, Oregon

Your bumpers are interesting. My "foam" covered original bumpers are deteriorating and I am looking for a way to repair or replace them. E. Lepard Sent from my Galaxy Tab? A

It was in Washington, and I haven't transferred the title yet. I think I'll get it plates that say "OG TSLA" ... I've found a few of those sites, I think. There's a doc I have where I've compiled every other document of parts numbers I come across. That would be great! I'm sure there are a few others near the Portland area, as I've seen pictures of several with Oregon plates. Jacob Field 1980 Gold ComutaCar The Dalles, Oregon

Jacob, Welcome! I kind of new too and I'm just up the road in the Seattle area (Kitsap). There are a lot of cool people in this group and history. I see it has Washington plates, it wa in Oregon? My car came form Salem or area. Less rust. When you are Googling parts, EVdrives is a great place to get parts and it is in Port Townsend wa, vintage carts has brake parts too, it is in Sqeim Wa. So you will be close to some good parts. Hope we can start a west coast c-car meet up. Feel free to ask questions. Tony Perreault

Looking to see if anybody has used plasti fix. Some cracks along the windshield appeared from this season's cold weather in Connecticut. I believe this is the best product on the market does anybody know any other products that work better? Sent from my MetroPCS 4G LTE Android Device

Howdy. My wife and her family bought me a lime green 1980 commuta-car late last year. It's in pretty rough shape, but seems all of the parts are there, including all of the original glass. I am excited to dig in and do a full restore. My car didn't come with keys, so I think that will be my first step. Beyond that, I'm not sure of next steps. Since many of you have already been through this I figured it would be best to ask for your advice. What do you wish you'd known before you started? Any thoughts on the priority of all the various mini-projects required to bring the C-Car back to pristine? My golf cart batteries are shot but I have experience with lipo batteries. For the short term plan to run a custom 48v pack coming in at something like 4kWh. From what I can see that's about half of what one would get out of lead-acid batteries, but my pack will weigh about 60 pounds versus the more than 500 so maybe I'll see extra range just in weight reduction. Thanks for reading, I look forward to your thoughts as I embark on this exciting and overwhelming journey. -JLJ

Hello group, I am a new member. I purchased a CIticar in Okeechobee, Florida. I went to the DMV and the St. Lucie county seat to get a title. They do not recognize the serial number. I think I might just scrap the car for parts and use the chassis for a golf cart rolling yard tool box. My Citicar is pretty ruff. The window is cloudy around the perimeter. The door plexiglass is crystalized. I have no batteries. I would be willing to sell the back hatch glass and fibreglass body panels. I will need the engine and control switches to drive around the yard. What do you think? Peter Vonbredow Rochester, NY 716 478 7013 petervonbredow@... Virus-free. www.avast.com

Good Morning All, I believe I burt up one of my brushes and was looking through this forum and found Tom K's post in 2011 about the high quality brushes they had custom made from Helwig Carbon. Here is a link to Tom's video about them: https://youtu.be/5BvHgGPcgTc I got a quote for them, if I order 4, they are $61 each, but if I order 8 they are $36 each, a significant price reduction. If anyone would like to go in on the order, I'll coordinate the effort. Then get a new quote for the group. Please reply with your name and the number you need. I'm replacing all 4 in my 1980 Comuta-car with the 6hp GE motor. Look forward to hearing from you all. Tony

Ellie stopped running today we took her to a festival at garfield park indianapolis, IN got about 3/4 way there aprox 5 miles from home and she quit had at least 3/4 of a charge when we left home then about 5 miles out i heard a sizzle and the power dropped sharply and it ran about three blocks with out using much gas pedal but slowly then quit drained the pack also. Don't know anymore yet Hope the pack isn't fried any ideas would help jafortwengler@... Thanks

Put some modern led headlights into Citicar today. The difference is not even measurable. Maybe the drl are as bright as the originals. Low beams are bright and highs are really bright. I'll adjust them tonight and put the trim on. I used a 7inch led designed for a Jeep Wrangler. Thank goodness Jeep kept the 7" alive for aftermarket. The drl "halo" is v shaped like vanguard, and the circumference halo is orange and flashes with the turn signal. Two extra wires need to be added, one for the drl halo, and one for the turn signal halo. The headlight connection was pinned the same and just plugged in. The adjusting housing neded to be trimmed a bit to fit the heat sink. This step could be skipped, but the headlight would extend 1/4 or so out from normal, and may not cool appropriately, and may leak more at the gasket than it already does by design. Very straight forward. I have a few pics in a public album.

Very interesting. Thanks for sharing the photos. Regards, Russell Homan

Sorry John I stink at photos. I had forgotten about the sizing issue when posting from my phone.

C'mon guys. Please don't post huge photo files. My ISP chops mails at 250 Mb! The rule for at least a decade has been no more than 100kb photos. 50kb is what I use and the pics are perfectly clear on a computer monitor. Sorry for sticking my nose in here. John list admin

I came close to purchasing those very same ones. It's said those have the best light output, among the Jeep guys. Probably better than mine, but I was a sucker for that v on a vanguard.