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While a nostalgic “original” switch might be nice, a drum switch that allows reversing is far more practical – especially for metric threading. Pays your money… takes your chances… Sent from Mail for Windows

Recently got a 6" Atlas. Had to take it apart to get it in my basement. The motor and on/off switch was detached by my son-in-law helping me get the lathe inside. Today I went to re-install the switch and it will not fit into the lathe's rectangular hole that appears to be designated to receive the switch. The width of the switch's housing is too wide. I asked my son-in-law and he said the switch was held to the lathe with long bolts and not actually inside the rectangular hole. There was electrical tape (remove in the pic) wrapped around the wires and body of the switch to prevent contact. Does anyone have specs on the switch so I can find one online and get it? Or was it actually designed on this lathe to just sit against the housing? Thanks!

Either the 618 or the MK II will do.

Anyone looking for a decent QC54 Atlas mounted on a welded steel bench. I have one that has been sitting in the shop for a few years. Lots of new parts includes a 3-jaw Shars chuck and a 4-jaw Craftsman chuck and some tooling. Located in West Virginia.

I’m needing a thickness measurement of the feed slide nut washer part number 932-041. This was from my 10in. lathe and I discovered that it was missing one part , the slide washer. I really don’t want to put it up for sell missing this part.

Does anyone know where the S7-163 3/8" ID flat washer with the anti-rotation tab on the ID might be purchased? I finally located a picture of the washer I need, but there were no dimensions given so I have no idea how large it is. I've cobbled a washer from soft mechanics wire (bailing wire). Rolled into a ring with a hook to go into the shaft keyway and then flattened somewhat on the bench anvil. I think it will work ok, but it would be nice to have the correct washer that was missing on the shaft. Cheers from NC/USA

Hey just found this forum. I'm dewey from Saskatchewan. I recently bought an atlas 109 lathe and kinda forgot to give it the care and attention it needs. As a result, I managed to destroy the spindle bushings (front and back). There was not mueft of front tapered one and back was showing .585 on calipers. Lots of radial and axial movement now. I was wondering if anyone had the dimensions for the front bearing.l? It's a tapered split bronze bushing I with a threaded end for preload I guess?

I agree that the best thing to do with 6” gears is to find someone with a 6” who needs them. Besides having to bore out the hubs, you will also have to make spacers before you can use them on a 10F 0r equivalent age 12”. Robert Downs

So I have two sets of gears that are with the atlas lathes that belonged to my father. one appears to be a metric set for a Atlas 6 and a set of gears that’s look like the set for a 10” is there any reason for me to have these gears for the 6?

Not sure if this is appropriate to this group, as the Craftsman horizontal bandsaw is made by Covel, not Atlas, but since there are other references to it in some of the other messages I’ll throw this in the mix hoping someone has an answer. My saw is not cutting well, and it is likely the blade. I’m having trouble locating the correct thickness of blade. The manual is quite specific that the saw uses .020 blades, 1/2” x 60”. “Caution, Experience has proved that blades thicker than .020 inch will soon break under the strain of turning around the pulleys. Many commercial blades are thicker… avoid these. You can alway purchase blades from Sears as noted above!” Well, we know where leads. Anyone have a source for the proper blades? There are three blade teeth configurations As well, 10, 14, and skip tooth. thanks in advance. Kit Maira -- “Everyone carries a part of society on his shoulders; no one is relieved of his share of responsibility by others. And no one can find a safe way out for himself if society is sweeping toward destruction. Therefore, everyone, in his own interests, must thrust himself vigorously into the intellectual battle. None can stand aside with unconcern; the interest of everyone hangs on the result. Whether he chooses or not, every man is drawn into the great historical struggle, the decisive battle into which our epoch has plunged us.” ― Ludwig Von Mises

Found an issue on my Craftsman 12" 101.07401 old girl. The face cut isn't flat all the way across. So I was trueing up an approx 5 1/2" backplate for a chuck, made of cast iron. After turning I decide to check how flat it was. I used a test indicator across the face. The test indicator is on a magnet stand on the compound. As it traversed the backplate with the cross slide I determined the backplate had a taper of .005" in 2" on the side opposite of the cutting tool!!! Of course there was not an issue on the side of the cut, as the cross slide just made that side parallel to the cross slide. So I figured either the headstock or the cross slide wasn't at a perfect right angle to the ways. So after putting a machinist square across the ways and running a dial indicator plunger against the edge of the square I found the cross slide was very square to the ways maybe a .0001 or so across the ways deviation. So that means the headstock must be a bit off. So after long thinking about this I figured if the head stock is canted away from the cutting tool and you face cut you get a convex surface a straight edge across will show light on the end( this is my situation). And you get a concave shape if the headstock is turned towards the cutting tool then a straight edge will show light in the middle of the facing cut. So the headstock isn't adjustable, was thinking to correct this I'd have to shave some headstock a bit to get some movement and then shim it straight, tighten cut and test. Anyone do something like this before ? Any advice ? Oh and I don't think it is bed twist either as I did the leveling some time back and is it really possible for a twisted bed effect the work when working so close to the spindle, the cutter is less than a 1/4" from the spindle nose and the saddle legs were around the headstock. Ideas to fix ?

you know the rules , not mine https://sfbay.craigslist.org/nby/tls/d/vineburg-lathe/7610441278.html animal

Yea , I've seen TbT before & his fiddle playin is up there with the best . The bulk of my listening these days is Americana & JamGrass . Tons of great fiddlers in that area . I am a huge fan of 60's from San Fransisco bands & there were somany great planers from that time & some of them are still playing , Santana , Jorma , Bob Weir to name a few . But these new guys are steps above alot of those players . Find Billy Strings on youtube , Marcus King just to name 2 of them . I listen to these new players & I'm reminded of a interview with Stevie Ray before he was killed . He was asked where he thought Jimi's playing would be if he was alive today , Stevie looked at the interviewer & said " he was already there man " . Covers it for me . animal On 4/11/2023 7:05 AM, Jon Elson wrote:

Hi I am finally getting my atlas lathe ready to go. I am about to take the apron off and check things out the half nut lever and the half nuts don't seem to be engaging right. The lathe is a 101.07403 and has the 3/4" lead screw. I was wondering if people are replacing these with brass or staying with the zmack and where are good places to look to buy the half nuts and other parts in the future. Is Clausing still stocking the half nuts and if so does anyone have a link to the site? Thanks in advance, Ed C'

We spend so much time talking about our machines, I wonder if anyone ever makes/fixes anything. I thought it might be interesting if everyone posts a picture of their most recent project be it big and complicated or a more mundane job. I will start with something rather mundane. I bought a trailer with a damaged jack. The wheel bearing is seized with rust. The bracket to hold the wheel is badly bent. I had to cut the end of the pipe to re-weld the bolt holding the bracket because it just spun when trying to remove it. I heated the bracket in my hardening oven in order to hammer it straight. I mounted the wheel on my lathe and bored out the rust for the new bearing. While it was in the lathe I also turned the outside to square it up with the bore and make it look nice. Lastly, I had to make a new sleeve to go between the bearing and the bolt through the wheel. A little paint and grease and it works great. The company that made this jack discontinued it and no longer carries parts. A replacement would have cost around $250 and required welding a different bracket to the frame. This repair cost me $10 for the bearing and 3 hours of my labor. Well worth it to me.

Hello All, First of all, this is not intended to revive the long-standing belt debate. I think we've all heard enough of that lately. I'm writing to ask for assistance in finding a replacement belt for my Atlas 450 toolpost grinder. Please note that this is not the 10-450 toolpost grinder that most are familiar with. The Atlas 450 grinder was produced up until the early 1940s, when the 10-450 grinder came out. I've been in contact with Clausing. Adrianne was able to provide me with a copy of the "Instructions and Parts List" for the 450 grinder, but she tells me that there are no parts available. She was able to tell me that the dimensions of the belt I need, a part number 9-471 are (1/16x1/2x13-3/4 I.C.). Does anyone know where such a belt might be found? It occurs to me that there may be a suitable flat belt in common use in vacuum cleaners, but I've never been able to find the dimensions of vacuum cleaner belts published anywhere. Any ideas? Bill

I know "some people" absolutely hate the idea of using a Tool Post Grinder. Especially because of the mess. Well I "think" I can prepare for the mess and be able to deal with it. With that being said, I have a problem with tool alignment. HOW?? How does one align the tool post grinder? It mounts on a swivel bolt so there is no way to accurately align it. I have a three jaw chuck that the previous owner somehow drilled a hole in one of the jaws. I thought I would build a tool post grinder but then I got a Dumore #44 Tool Post Grinder at a Tool Swap. I ground down the jaws with a internal 1" and 3/8" grinding wheel. The jaws looked nice. Actually I removed about 5 thou and saw that the depression was actually very deep so I stopped there. Then I found that my grinder was not "aligned" exactly to the jaws. So made up a test bar. Obviously the jaws are hitting at the back, the front of the jaw is at 1 1/8" there is a fine mark. So how do I align the Tool Post Grinder? I would like to be able to grind internal tapers. I could probable live with just setting it by eye ball for external grinding but not for internal grinding. Thanks for the help. Ralph

Hello to all! I have an addiction and want to be straight about it. Over thirty years ago a collection of Atlas/Craftsman metal working tools was started. The idea of a complete metal shop with 1/2 horse power motors was conceived. The line of Atlas/Craftsman machine tools is a perfect fit! These tools are used and no trailer queens here. 'Atlas grinder/hone Atlas belt and disc sander Atlas 7" shaper Atlas drill press Craftsman milling machine Craftsman 12 x 36 plain change gear lathe Atlas 10 x 36 plain change gear model D lathe Am considered a old fart now and love making parts for the machines! Thank you for listening to my confession.

If anyone would like to have two Honda 205 Dreams and a Honda 50 to take apart for parts as Mike suggests, contact me directly at jejennings@.... All from the 1960's and none are in running condition but one of the Dreams and the 50 might be repairable. Located in Southern New Jersey, Camden County, and I will practically give them away for scrap value to get rid of them.

Agreed. I had heated seats in the BMW. I don't miss them now, because I selected cloth seats for the truck, so I don't have to deal with leather seats. I find them terribly hot in summer and even more terribly cold in winter. But I do miss the heated steering wheel. That was freaking awesome. I rented a Porsche one time and it had air-conditioned seats. Now that was sweet. Did not feel terrible riding leather seats in summer.