Re: Drive Coupler Not Staying Engaged, Craftsman 101.21200 MK2
I'm sure there's more thatn one 10/22 that was taken apart &
to spend eternity in a cigar box with no lid . MY old boss had a
Colt Woodsman like that , His kids took it in & had it fixed
after he died . I would have loved to have that one . Spares ,
it's all about spares till they aren't the right size . SOme where
I have a box full of real good quality loose ball bearings from
good quality like Campagnolo bike parts like? hubs , pedals, head
sets & bottom brackets? . I just need to find it . I've never
made a spring the proper way . After I make a few I'm sure it will
be off to something else that I didn't know how to do . MY great
uncle owned a bar not to far from where I live today , he had all
these cute little signs with sayings hanging up behind the bar . I
remember reading all of them when I was @ 5-6 & one of them
said " when yer through learning yer through " I try to learn
something new every day . A lot of is may be worthless BS to most
folks , but if I didn't know it I do now .
thanks
animal
On 2/22/24 9:35 PM, Rick Kruger wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Did you mean to post this to the Atlas group??
Yes, it is too bad Hank spoiled it.? This and other stuff I'm
doing would be better shared on that group.?
Making springs is something I'm not drawn too.? Got way more to do
that is fun without getting wound around the axle on that one...?
I had to replace some springs on a friend's Ruger 10/22 22LR
firing pin and ejector.? My gunsmith showed me how to get it apart
but left it to me to get it back together.? I managed, but what a
pain.?
I've looked for that lost detent ball at least three times.? Good
think I picked up some spares when I was in Portland last time.?
Rick
On 2/22/2024 8:49 PM, mike allen
wrote:
Glad yer gettin the machine back on track . The spring that
ya removed may not be the original spring to yer lathe . I've
always been amazed at the hack job's some folks do to their
precision lathes & mills . They don't have time to do it
right but they have plenty of time to do it twice . Ya have
good discipline . It's too bad that Hank spoiled it to where
ya couldn't share your process over on the 618 group .?
Making springs is one thing I want to learn how to do . I can
kinda make one but I want to be able to make them right . I
had a bud that when he left the Army he grabbed some 1911
parts & one of them was a new recoil spring , it had
probably 3 more coils, at least that many more than the one in
my 1911 had . I didn't get to shoot it for a couple of weeks
& hell? when I got to the range I could barely rack the
slide . We never found where he put my original spring , it's
probably way under a bench 3 garages ago . Murphy said it
right when it came to ball bearings & springs , when ya
remove one it automatically goes straight to the darkest,
furthest & hardest to get to corners of yer work shop . I
think I ended up cutting 4-5 coils off that recoil spring 1/2
of a coil at a time & still it was way too hard to operate
. I finally bought a handful different ones at a gun show
& finally got it back in top form .
thanks
animal
On 2/22/24 1:17 PM, Rick Kruger
wrote:
Replacement ball detent kits arrived a while back but just now
got around to trying it out.? This kit may be "new" but I
think it is not "factory".? All I know for sure, the spring is
not the same as what was in my lathe's coupler.? Wire diameter
on my spring is 0.020".? Diameter of the two "replacement"
springs are 0.015".? On the right is my spring, left is the
replacement.? I'm didn't even try them.?
I had ordered some springs from McMaster-Carr as well; longer
ones and thicker wire, 0.022".? Clipped one, one more spiral
longer than the one that came out of my coupler and after
having lost one steel ball, got it back together.?
Coordinating depressing the ball/spring and aligning the
coupler key slot with the key took me a few tries.? Shiny
spring on the left is the one I used.? Middle is the original,
two on the left, the replacements.?
The McMC spring seems to be doing the trick.? It is noticeably
stronger but did slip out a few times just after being
installed.? Didn't with the lathe just running at top speed,
but did when load was applied to the spindle.? After a while,
that ceased and it is now remaining engaged after allowing the
lathe to run unloaded a while and then trying it with load.?
Likely will be just fine as I don't know what I'd do putting
much load on it at that top speed.?
Unless something else happens, I consider this issue
resolved.? Thanks for the assistance.
Rick
On 1/19/2024 6:15 AM, Bill in OKC
too via groups.io wrote:
It's a good question.??
about $18 including shipping on eBay. Believe it's
the same seller who sold me the replacement felts for
my headstock, and the wipers for the bed.?
Bill in OKC?
William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)
|
Re: Drive Coupler Not Staying Engaged, Craftsman 101.21200 MK2
Sorry, I mis-spoke.? The spring I used is not actually pictured, it
is installed on the lathe.? What is shown there is what was clipped
off.?
Even, so, I meant to make the spring stronger than what it was
replacing, so making it functionally the same would not have met my
intent.? If this had not worked, I had received the set-screw ball
detent devices from McM-C and would have installed one in the
clearance hole in the coupler, but what I've done is working at the
moment.?
Rick
On 2/22/2024 9:58 PM, Andrei wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
The new spring has 2 extra turns. Look up the
specs in machinery's handbook. They should be functionally
identical.
[Edited Message Follows]
Replacement ball detent kits arrived a while back but just now
got around to trying it out.? This kit may be "new" but I think
it is not "factory".? All I know for sure, the spring is not the
same as what was in my lathe's coupler.? Wire diameter on my
spring is 0.020".? Diameter of the two "replacement" springs are
0.015".? On the right is my spring, left is the replacement.?
I'm didn't even try them.?
I had ordered some springs from McMaster-Carr as well; longer
ones and thicker wire, 0.022".? Clipped one, one more spiral
longer than the one that came out of my coupler and after having
lost one steel ball, got it back together.? Coordinating
depressing the ball/spring and aligning the coupler key slot
with the key took me a few tries.? Shiny spring on the left is
the one I used.? Middle is the original, two on the right, the
replacements.?
The McMC spring seems to be doing the trick.? It is noticeably
stronger but did slip out a few times just after being
installed.? Didn't with the lathe just running at top speed, but
did when load was applied to the spindle.? After a while, that
ceased and it is now remaining engaged after allowing the lathe
to run unloaded a while and then trying it with load.? Likely
will be just fine as I don't know what I'd do putting much load
on it at that top speed.?
Unless something else happens, I consider this issue resolved.?
Thanks for the assistance.
Rick
On 1/19/2024 6:15 AM, Bill in OKC
too via groups.io wrote:
It's a good question.??
?
about $18 including shipping on eBay. Believe it's
the same seller who sold me the replacement felts for my
headstock, and the wipers for the bed.?
?
Bill in OKC?
?
William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)
|
Re: Drive Coupler Not Staying Engaged, Craftsman 101.21200 MK2
The new spring has 2 extra turns. Look up the specs in machinery's handbook. They should be functionally identical.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
From: atlas-craftsman@groups.io <atlas-craftsman@groups.io> on behalf of Rick Kruger <krugerr@...>
Sent: Friday, February 23, 2024 12:54:05 AM
To: atlas-craftsman@groups.io <atlas-craftsman@groups.io>
Subject: Re: [atlas-craftsman IO] Drive Coupler Not Staying Engaged, Craftsman 101.21200 MK2
?
[Edited Message Follows]
Replacement ball detent kits arrived a while back but just now got around to trying it out.? This kit may be "new" but I think it is not "factory".? All I know for sure, the spring is not the same as what was in my lathe's coupler.? Wire diameter on my spring
is 0.020".? Diameter of the two "replacement" springs are 0.015".? On the right is my spring, left is the replacement.? I'm didn't even try them.?
I had ordered some springs from McMaster-Carr as well; longer ones and thicker wire, 0.022".? Clipped one, one more spiral longer than the one that came out of my coupler and after having lost one steel ball, got it back together.? Coordinating depressing the
ball/spring and aligning the coupler key slot with the key took me a few tries.? Shiny spring on the left is the one I used.? Middle is the original, two on the right, the replacements.?
The McMC spring seems to be doing the trick.? It is noticeably stronger but did slip out a few times just after being installed.? Didn't with the lathe just running at top speed, but did when load was applied to the spindle.? After a while, that ceased and
it is now remaining engaged after allowing the lathe to run unloaded a while and then trying it with load.? Likely will be just fine as I don't know what I'd do putting much load on it at that top speed.?
Unless something else happens, I consider this issue resolved.? Thanks for the assistance.
Rick
On 1/19/2024 6:15 AM, Bill in OKC too via groups.io wrote:
It's a good question.??
?
about $18 including shipping on eBay. Believe it's the same seller who sold me the replacement felts for my headstock, and the wipers for the bed.?
?
Bill in OKC?
?
William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)
|
Re: Drive Coupler Not Staying Engaged, Craftsman 101.21200 MK2
Glad yer gettin the machine back on track . The spring that ya
removed may not be the original spring to yer lathe . I've always
been amazed at the hack job's some folks do to their precision
lathes & mills . They don't have time to do it right but they
have plenty of time to do it twice . Ya have good discipline .
It's too bad that Hank spoiled it to where ya couldn't share your
process over on the 618 group .?
Making springs is one thing I want to learn how to do . I can
kinda make one but I want to be able to make them right . I had a
bud that when he left the Army he grabbed some 1911 parts &
one of them was a new recoil spring , it had probably 3 more
coils, at least that many more than the one in my 1911 had . I
didn't get to shoot it for a couple of weeks & hell? when I
got to the range I could barely rack the slide . We never found
where he put my original spring , it's probably way under a bench
3 garages ago . Murphy said it right when it came to ball bearings
& springs , when ya remove one it automatically goes straight
to the darkest, furthest & hardest to get to corners of yer
work shop . I think I ended up cutting 4-5 coils off that recoil
spring 1/2 of a coil at a time & still it was way too hard to
operate . I finally bought a handful different ones at a gun show
& finally got it back in top form .
thanks
animal
On 2/22/24 1:17 PM, Rick Kruger wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Replacement ball detent kits arrived a while back but just now got
around to trying it out.? This kit may be "new" but I think it is
not "factory".? All I know for sure, the spring is not the same as
what was in my lathe's coupler.? Wire diameter on my spring is
0.020".? Diameter of the two "replacement" springs are 0.015".? On
the right is my spring, left is the replacement.? I'm didn't even
try them.?
I had ordered some springs from McMaster-Carr as well; longer ones
and thicker wire, 0.022".? Clipped one, one more spiral longer
than the one that came out of my coupler and after having lost one
steel ball, got it back together.? Coordinating depressing the
ball/spring and aligning the coupler key slot with the key took me
a few tries.? Shiny spring on the left is the one I used.? Middle
is the original, two on the left, the replacements.?
The McMC spring seems to be doing the trick.? It is noticeably
stronger but did slip out a few times just after being installed.?
Didn't with the lathe just running at top speed, but did when load
was applied to the spindle.? After a while, that ceased and it is
now remaining engaged after allowing the lathe to run unloaded a
while and then trying it with load.? Likely will be just fine as I
don't know what I'd do putting much load on it at that top speed.?
Unless something else happens, I consider this issue resolved.?
Thanks for the assistance.
Rick
On 1/19/2024 6:15 AM, Bill in OKC too
via groups.io wrote:
It's a good question.??
about $18 including shipping on eBay. Believe it's the
same seller who sold me the replacement felts for my
headstock, and the wipers for the bed.?
Bill in OKC?
William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)
|
Re: Drive Coupler Not Staying Engaged, Craftsman 101.21200 MK2
Replacement ball detent kits arrived a while back but just now got around to trying it out.? This kit may be "new" but I think it is not "factory".? All I know for sure, the spring is not the same as what was in my lathe's coupler.? Wire diameter on my spring is 0.020".? Diameter of the two "replacement" springs are 0.015".? On the right is my spring, left is the replacement.? I'm didn't even try them.? I had ordered some springs from McMaster-Carr as well; longer ones and thicker wire, 0.022".? Clipped one, one more spiral longer than the one that came out of my coupler and after having lost one steel ball, got it back together.? Coordinating depressing the ball/spring and aligning the coupler key slot with the key took me a few tries.? Shiny spring on the left is the one I used.? Middle is the original, two on the right, the replacements.? The McMC spring seems to be doing the trick.? It is noticeably stronger but did slip out a few times just after being installed.? Didn't with the lathe just running at top speed, but did when load was applied to the spindle.? After a while, that ceased and it is now remaining engaged after allowing the lathe to run unloaded a while and then trying it with load.? Likely will be just fine as I don't know what I'd do putting much load on it at that top speed.? Unless something else happens, I consider this issue resolved.? Thanks for the assistance. Rick
On 1/19/2024 6:15 AM, Bill in OKC too via groups.io wrote:
It's a good question.??
?
about $18 including shipping on eBay. Believe it's the same seller who sold me the replacement felts for my headstock, and the wipers for the bed.?
?
Bill in OKC?
?
William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)
|
Re: Atlass MFC knee quesitons.
McMaster.com also sells 3/8” wide adjustable link belts:
V-Belts
Steve Haskell
|
Re: Atlas MFC knee quesitons.
has them in a variety of sizes, available by the foot.?
The trade-off between a slightly painful, one-time cost that will last years and the significant task of tearing the spindle down...
...? I know what I would do...
Rick
|
Re: Atlas MFC knee quesitons.
They only have the 1/2" link belt. It's up to nearly $40 for a 4' (IIRC) length. Checked, it's $34.99 for 5'. I got the 3L belt from Enco years ago. Amazon has it, too, in various lengths.
William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)
Aphorisms to live by: Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement.? SEMPER GUMBY!
Expect in one hand, expectorate in the other. See which one gets full first.
On Tuesday, February 20, 2024 at 12:36:10 PM CST, Greg via groups.io <gregj@...> wrote:
I don’t know if appropriate for the use but Harbor freight has link belts too.? I’ve had one on my lathe for at least 15 years. ? Greg ?
From: atlas-craftsman@groups.io [mailto:atlas-craftsman@groups.io] On Behalf Of Bill in OKC too via groups.io
Sent: Tuesday, February 20, 2024 8:43 AM
To: atlas-craftsman@groups.io
Subject: Re: [atlas-craftsman IO] Atlass MFC knee quesitons. ? 3L link belt isn't cheap, but it is available. I'm not finding any at Travers.com, but MSC-Direct should have it. they did when they were running Enco. Just did a generic search, and found that Amazon has it.?? That was just one link, there are others for other lengths and costs.? William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.) Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement.? Improvise, Adapt, and Overcome.
Physics doesn't care about your schedule.
The only reason I know anything is because I've done it wrong enough times to START to know better. Expect in one hand, expectorate in the other. See which one gets full first. ? On Tuesday, February 20, 2024 at 10:20:00 AM CST, Ralph Hulslander <rhulslander@...> wrote: " ?remove the spindle " or just use ? On Tue, Feb 20, 2024 at 7:16?AM mondosmetals <jwrey@...> wrote: On Mon, Feb 19, 2024 at 02:41 PM, eddembowski wrote: I have a totally off topic question for you. I just got one of these mills, and the belts are breaking apart. What kind of belt are you using there? I see it's not a regular v belt. Do you need to disassemble the headstock to change it? Motor Belt: L3-125
Spindle Belt: M1-85S
The motor pulley is either 9-428 (1/2" motor shaft) or 10-428 (5/8"motor shaft).
Those pulley part numbers are the same as used on the 10" Atlas and 12" Craftsman lathes which use a 1/2" wide 4L series belt. The spindle pulleys are narrower and I believe use a 3/8" wide 3L series belt. I regret I do not have cross reference numbers but if you measure the LOA of the outside surface you should be able to find the right sizes in fractional horsepower belt charts.
You will need to remove the spindle to replace the spindle belt.
Raymond
|
Ha, everything in my shop is nos, then.? I do know what some of its,
but not to the level of Certs.?
Yes, it did come through.? Would make understanding your process
much less meaningful, if not.?
Rick
On 2/20/2024 3:34 PM, Roger F. R. Karl
via groups.io wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Hi Rick and all,
nos - an example of laziness,
intended to signify Not Otherwise Specified - I have no idea
what the alloy of the brass was.
Did the image come through?
God bless you all and best
regards'
Roger Francis Karl
|
Hi Rick and all,
nos - an example of laziness, intended to signify Not Otherwise Specified - I have no idea what the alloy of the brass was.
Did the image come through?
God bless you all and best regards' Roger Francis Karl
On Tuesday, February 20, 2024 at 06:28:23 PM EST, Rick Kruger <krugerr@...> wrote:
Roger, that is a nice, detailed description of your process.? Thanks.?
It runs much like I imagined I might do it, although I had not thought of the split lock washer.? As mentioned above, I'm now intending to leave the broken compound handle as it is, single-handed.? If I every do decide to repair it, I'll refer back to your details.?
BTW, I'm not clear on your use of "nos" after mention of brass stock.? I'm familiar with NOS meaning "new old stock", but it isn't clear how that applies to brass stock, unless you have had it for a really long time.
Rick
|
Roger, that is a nice, detailed description of your process.? Thanks.?
It runs much like I imagined I might do it, although I had not thought of the split lock washer.? As mentioned above, I'm now intending to leave the broken compound handle as it is, single-handed.? If I every do decide to repair it, I'll refer back to your details.?
BTW, I'm not clear on your use of "nos" after mention of brass stock.? I'm familiar with NOS meaning "new old stock", but it isn't clear how that applies to brass stock, unless you have had it for a really long time.
Rick
|
Nice work Rodger. Just sayin’ Brian
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Feb 20, 2024, at 5:42 PM, Roger F. R. Karl via groups.io <RFKARL@...> wrote:
?Hi Rick,??
Belated response to your commentary on the repair of the handle assembly. The attached image illustrates the 3 that I restored. Somewhat and time consuming. All had been broken at the narrow neck of the arm which I assume is typical. I flat filed the broken end of the arm, found the center of the flat filed end, center punched, drilled and tapped to receive a recessed hex head cap screw to secure the brass extension of the arm to the remaining original portion of the arm. The arm extension was made from a piece of brass stock nos, drilled and counterbored to receive the cap screw mentioned above. Tha new arm assembly was brought together face to face with a split ring lock washer between the faces to prevent rotation. Additionally, a hole was drilled on the cylinder of the arm Extension to secure the handle? to the arm, detailed following. The handle was fabricated from brass stock nos. One end of the handle was a full radius In a lathe using a flat file, the neck formed using a curved file and the other end curved to mate with the cylinder of the arm, the lower body of the arm drilled the receive a steel roll pin. The assembly of the handle to the arm extension was accomplished by first tinning the mating surfaces of the arm extension and the handle, pressing the roll pin into the handle , then pressing through handle and the arm extension together, followed by heating the assembly to get the solder to flow, adding solder as needed. The solder was silver bearing solder.
Hole that this helps. I am confident that with some thought there is an easier way to accomplish this. Is it perfect? No, but it works for me. God bless you all and best regards. Roger Francis Karl Manchester. Maine On Fri, Feb 16, 2024 at 4:41 PM, Rick Kruger <krugerr@...> wrote: Yes, I could have, if I wanted to take the time.? I even have the factory drawing.? But given what else is going on in my life right now, better to buy one.? I may have to make one for the compound given how scarce they are.? I'll first try to repair the broken one, but I think that has a low chance of success.?
<IMG20230907175303.jpg>
|
Hi Rick,??
Belated response to your commentary on the repair of the handle assembly. The attached image illustrates the 3 that I restored. Somewhat and time consuming. All had been broken at the narrow neck of the arm which I assume is typical. I flat filed the broken end of the arm, found the center of the flat filed end, center punched, drilled and tapped to receive a recessed hex head cap screw to secure the brass extension of the arm to the remaining original portion of the arm. The arm extension was made from a piece of brass stock nos, drilled and counterbored to receive the cap screw mentioned above. Tha new arm assembly was brought together face to face with a split ring lock washer between the faces to prevent rotation. Additionally, a hole was drilled on the cylinder of the arm Extension to secure the handle? to the arm, detailed following. The handle was fabricated from brass stock nos. One end of the handle was a full radius In a lathe using a flat file, the neck formed using a curved file and the other end curved to mate with the cylinder of the arm, the lower body of the arm drilled the receive a steel roll pin. The assembly of the handle to the arm extension was accomplished by first tinning the mating surfaces of the arm extension and the handle, pressing the roll pin into the handle , then pressing through handle and the arm extension together, followed by heating the assembly to get the solder to flow, adding solder as needed. The solder was silver bearing solder.
Hole that this helps. I am confident that with some thought there is an easier way to accomplish this. Is it perfect? No, but it works for me. God bless you all and best regards. Roger Francis Karl Manchester. Maine
On Fri, Feb 16, 2024 at 4:41 PM, Rick Kruger <krugerr@...> wrote: Yes, I could have, if I wanted to take the time.? I even have the factory drawing.? But given what else is going on in my life right now, better to buy one.? I may have to make one for the compound given how scarce they are.? I'll first try to repair the broken one, but I think that has a low chance of success.?
|
Re: Atlas MFC knee quesitons.
I think theirs are a 1/2 belt ?
animal
On 2/20/24 10:36 AM, Greg via groups.io
wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
I don’t know if appropriate
for the use but Harbor freight has link belts too.? I’ve had
one on my lathe for at least 15 years.
?
Greg
?
From: atlas-craftsman@groups.io
[mailto:atlas-craftsman@groups.io] On Behalf Of Bill
in OKC too via groups.io
Sent: Tuesday, February 20, 2024 8:43 AM
To: atlas-craftsman@groups.io
Subject: Re: [atlas-craftsman IO] Atlass MFC knee
quesitons.
?
3L link belt isn't cheap, but it is
available. I'm not finding any at Travers.com, but
MSC-Direct should have it. they did when they were
running Enco. Just did a generic search, and found that
Amazon has it.??
That was just one link, there are others for other
lengths and costs.?
William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)
Good judgement comes from
experience. Experience comes from bad
judgement.?
Improvise, Adapt, and
Overcome.
Physics doesn't care about your schedule.
The only reason I know anything is because I've
done it wrong enough times to START to know
better.
Expect in one hand,
expectorate in the other. See which one gets
full first.
?
On Tuesday, February 20, 2024 at
10:20:00 AM CST, Ralph Hulslander
<rhulslander@...> wrote:
" ?remove the spindle " or just
use
?
On Tue, Feb 20, 2024 at
7:16?AM mondosmetals <jwrey@...>
wrote:
On Mon, Feb 19, 2024 at 02:41
PM, eddembowski wrote:
I have a totally off topic
question for you. I just got one of these mills,
and the belts are breaking apart. What kind of
belt are you using there? I see it's not a
regular v belt. Do you need to disassemble the
headstock to change it?
Motor Belt: L3-125
Spindle Belt: M1-85S
The motor pulley is either 9-428 (1/2" motor
shaft) or 10-428 (5/8"motor shaft).
Those pulley part numbers are the same as used
on the 10" Atlas and 12" Craftsman lathes which
use a 1/2" wide 4L series belt. The spindle
pulleys are narrower and I believe use a 3/8"
wide 3L series belt. I regret I do not have
cross reference numbers but if you measure the
LOA of the outside surface you should be able to
find the right sizes in fractional horsepower
belt charts.
You will need to remove the spindle to replace
the spindle belt.
Raymond
|
Re: Atlas MFC knee quesitons.
I don’t know if appropriate for the use but Harbor freight has link belts too.? I’ve had one on my lathe for at least 15 years. ? Greg ?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
From: atlas-craftsman@groups.io [mailto:atlas-craftsman@groups.io] On Behalf Of Bill in OKC too via groups.io
Sent: Tuesday, February 20, 2024 8:43 AM
To: atlas-craftsman@groups.io
Subject: Re: [atlas-craftsman IO] Atlass MFC knee quesitons. ? 3L link belt isn't cheap, but it is available. I'm not finding any at Travers.com, but MSC-Direct should have it. they did when they were running Enco. Just did a generic search, and found that Amazon has it.?? That was just one link, there are others for other lengths and costs.? William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.) Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement.? Improvise, Adapt, and Overcome.
Physics doesn't care about your schedule.
The only reason I know anything is because I've done it wrong enough times to START to know better. Expect in one hand, expectorate in the other. See which one gets full first. ? On Tuesday, February 20, 2024 at 10:20:00 AM CST, Ralph Hulslander <rhulslander@...> wrote: " ?remove the spindle " or just use ? On Tue, Feb 20, 2024 at 7:16?AM mondosmetals <jwrey@...> wrote: On Mon, Feb 19, 2024 at 02:41 PM, eddembowski wrote: I have a totally off topic question for you. I just got one of these mills, and the belts are breaking apart. What kind of belt are you using there? I see it's not a regular v belt. Do you need to disassemble the headstock to change it? Motor Belt: L3-125
Spindle Belt: M1-85S
The motor pulley is either 9-428 (1/2" motor shaft) or 10-428 (5/8"motor shaft).
Those pulley part numbers are the same as used on the 10" Atlas and 12" Craftsman lathes which use a 1/2" wide 4L series belt. The spindle pulleys are narrower and I believe use a 3/8" wide 3L series belt. I regret I do not have cross reference numbers but if you measure the LOA of the outside surface you should be able to find the right sizes in fractional horsepower belt charts.
You will need to remove the spindle to replace the spindle belt.
Raymond
|
Re: Atlass MFC knee quesitons.
On the question about raising the knee I've always felt that the effort to raise it was out of proportion to its weight. One of my future projects is to figure out why. I have a friend with one I need to try his and see how it raises. Maybe they are all like that.
--
Bill from Socal
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Re: Atlass MFC knee quesitons.
Removing the spindle is not a trivial task. I rebuilt mine with new bearings and a slightly modified spindle to better retain the pulleys which were always coming loose even when I gronked on them hard. There is a metal part at front which MUST be aligned with a shaft key before pressing the spindle out. Very easy to mess up (ask me how I know) There was a You Tube video of a rebuild which was extremely helpful on what to do and not do.? Unless you what to take it apart for the knowledge? just use the link belts.
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Bill from Socal
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Re: Atlass MFC knee quesitons.
3L link belt isn't cheap, but it is available. I'm not finding any at Travers.com, but MSC-Direct should have it. they did when they were running Enco. Just did a generic search, and found that Amazon has it.?? That was just one link, there are others for other lengths and costs.?
Bill in OKC
William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)
Aphorisms to live by: Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement.? SEMPER GUMBY!
Expect in one hand, expectorate in the other. See which one gets full first.
On Tuesday, February 20, 2024 at 10:20:00 AM CST, Ralph Hulslander <rhulslander@...> wrote:
"
?remove the spindle " or just use
On Tue, Feb 20, 2024 at 7:16?AM mondosmetals < jwrey@...> wrote: On Mon, Feb 19, 2024 at 02:41 PM, eddembowski wrote:
I have a totally off topic question for you. I just got one of these mills, and the belts are breaking apart. What kind of belt are you using there? I see it's not a regular v belt. Do you need to disassemble the headstock to change it?
Motor Belt: L3-125
Spindle Belt: M1-85S
The motor pulley is either 9-428 (1/2" motor shaft) or 10-428 (5/8"motor shaft).
Those pulley part numbers are the same as used on the 10" Atlas and 12" Craftsman lathes which use a 1/2" wide 4L series belt. The spindle pulleys are narrower and I believe use a 3/8" wide 3L series belt. I regret I do not have cross reference numbers but if you measure the LOA of the outside surface you should be able to find the right sizes in fractional horsepower belt charts.
You will need to remove the spindle to replace the spindle belt.
Raymond
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Re: Atlass MFC knee quesitons.
"
?remove the spindle " or just use
On Tue, Feb 20, 2024 at 7:16?AM mondosmetals < jwrey@...> wrote: On Mon, Feb 19, 2024 at 02:41 PM, eddembowski wrote:
I have a totally off topic question for you. I just got one of these mills, and the belts are breaking apart. What kind of belt are you using there? I see it's not a regular v belt. Do you need to disassemble the headstock to change it?
Motor Belt: L3-125
Spindle Belt: M1-85S
The motor pulley is either 9-428 (1/2" motor shaft) or 10-428 (5/8"motor shaft).
Those pulley part numbers are the same as used on the 10" Atlas and 12" Craftsman lathes which use a 1/2" wide 4L series belt. The spindle pulleys are narrower and I believe use a 3/8" wide 3L series belt. I regret I do not have cross reference numbers but if you measure the LOA of the outside surface you should be able to find the right sizes in fractional horsepower belt charts.
You will need to remove the spindle to replace the spindle belt.
Raymond
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Re: Atlass MFC knee quesitons.
On Mon, Feb 19, 2024 at 02:41 PM, eddembowski wrote:
I have a totally off topic question for you. I just got one of these mills, and the belts are breaking apart. What kind of belt are you using there? I see it's not a regular v belt. Do you need to disassemble the headstock to change it?
Motor Belt: L3-125 Spindle Belt: M1-85S The motor pulley is either 9-428 (1/2" motor shaft) or 10-428 (5/8"motor shaft). Those pulley part numbers are the same as used on the 10" Atlas and 12" Craftsman lathes which use a 1/2" wide 4L series belt. The spindle pulleys are narrower and I believe use a 3/8" wide 3L series belt. I regret I do not have cross reference numbers but if you measure the LOA of the outside surface you should be able to find the right sizes in fractional horsepower belt charts. You will need to remove the spindle to replace the spindle belt. Raymond
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Steven H
Bill in OKC too
Roger F. R. Karl
Brian Cayer