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Randy:

Wow, 10,000 feet of cables divided by 2 for each side

Divide 10,000 feet by 6 (3 cable runs down each side - inner, outer, aux
power)

That's still a lot of modules, I agree.

Keep in mind some folks have used ZBT just for home use. Their modules will
never see the trunk (boot) of a car on the way to public displays. Its just
not the way they want to enjoy Z scale.

That's OK too. So long as folks are having fun, that's the objective of the
hobby.

And there are folks who buy wire and connectors on their own, and I have no
idea where they are. There is absolutely nothing hard-to-find or "special"
about a ZBT harness. Which is part of the "why" the ZBT components were selected
in the first place (last forever, available everywhere, cheap)(and
electrically sufficient).

Regards,
Bill K.
Houston

Tell Bill he is all plugged up Bob Grant

--- In Z-Bend_Track@..., zbendtrack@... wrote:

All:
In the past 5 years, I've shipped close to 2 actual miles of
18-2 wire in harnesses (around 10,000 feet).
Regards,
Bill K.
Houston

Bill,
Anyone ever accuse you of being wired? I guess there are worse names
one could be called huh?
Loren

I have been making them out of single jacket multi-conductor cable (Alpha
1898/10C), 18 gauge 10 conductor. 2 pr for each inside and outside track, 1
pr for the Acc power and 4 for the DCC or user defined pins (22-25). You
can use Bill's PC bd or solder to your own 25 pin D-sub connector. For end
modules where you have one male and female, I use one wire-wrap type D
soldered back to back and then attach the cable for a "side mounted" exit.

Jeff

All:

I just posted the "new" prices to the zbendtrack.org website. My labor is
the same, but parts costs went up about 8% on this latest restocking. Sorry.

I'm started buying wire on 3,000+ foot spools instead of 1,000 foot spools to
hold some of the price increases down as long as I can.

Anyone want to build a layout on a wood wire spool? <smile>

Amazing fact: In the past 5 years, I've shipped close to 2 actual miles of
18-2 wire in harnesses (around 10,000 feet). Wouldn't it be fun to see all
those modules connected up one day? Wow. We could have a Z-only-NTS show.

Regards,
Bill K.
Houston

Jeff:

I have been making them

I like your innovation. It would work fine. Electrical current doesn't
worry about appearance, only the sufficiency of the conductor, connector and
insulation.

I work to insure the connectors I buy are rated at 5,000 or more insertions,
lifetime. The cheap stuff for video game "guts" are rated at 100 insertions,
lifetime. Which is correct for that application.

If you've seen one of the ZBT kits/assemblies, the loom and cable clips just
make the installation "pretty" to the eye and "durable" in transit. <smile>
At a cost of less than 43 cents extra per module.

Parts is not the problem. Time is.

Oh, to be retired....someday. And have unlimited "train time."

Bill K.
Houston

Randy, Michael:

My health is no longer an issue. But it did leave me months behind in almost
everything, hobby or not.

I''m due another $500 shipment of "stuff" tomorrow (so UPS says) so as soon
as I start to run low on parts, I'll give you both a "list" and "where-to-buy"
by offline email. The assembly instructions have been on the Z-Bend Track
website (in color, even) for the last year or more.

By design, all components are readily available on all continents (except for
Antarctica, perhaps). We learned from our N-Trak days about the value of
selecting wiring harnesses made from last-forever components available anywhere,
anytime, cheap.

I've made up a lot of "3rd hand" jigs along the way, but my assembly time is
still almost identical to someone who buys a single kit and does it themselves
on the family dinning table.

At $5 an hour, you won't get rich, but you will come in contact with just a
WONDERFUL bunch of Z scalers that you never knew existed out there.

I'd love the competition on cable assembly. Then I might be able to finish
this nude module I've been looking at for 20 months.

Regards,
Bill K.
Houston

Anyone:

I've been making ZBT cables for 8 years now, and in reasonable numbers for
the last 5 years. There are just an amazing number of folks building ZBT
modules, many of which are not part of organized clubs, but just want ZBT modularity
for home layouts.

That's just outstanding, I think. Who would have guessed that Z scale would
explode like it has in both numbers and products?

Is there anyone on the list that would be interested in assembling cables for
others, besides me (for a fee)?

Let me know offline at zbendtrack @ aol.com

Thanks,
Bill K.
Houston

Dear Loren:

You were at NTS 05, and saw what Rob Albritton did with his first
swiss layout. We need a module with a setup track on it, and since
I have the 2 T modules, I fugured the best thing I can do is make an
end module that is long enough for a set up track. Our modules are
also pretty flat, so I decided something with mountains would be
appropriate. It might take me a while to put it together because
the WIZkidZ have a special contest in the works, that might be
revealed in your next Z track magazine, or you will have to wait
until November to hear what it is. Rob Kluz knows about it and he
is very enthused about how the contest develops.

I only wish I had the talents you do with your tree's and other
scenery items. You are one of the best.

Rob A's swiss modules have mountains with no trees. It gives a
forced perspective that I like without taking up lots of space.
Thomas's foam method should help to keep the weight down, and allow
me to add water features.

However, spring is here, and the kids want me to put in another
Garden Railroad, plus a G and O scale layout in the basement of our
new house. I need to retire to get it all done.

That's enough rambling.

dave h.





--- In Z-Bend_Track@..., "loren snyder" <ljsnyder@...>
wrote:

--- In Z-Bend_Track@..., "Dave Hjortnaes" <dlhort1955@>
wrote:

I will continue to use wooden legs, but will think strongly

about

using a foam base instead of a thin piece of plywood. I love

the

depth you are able to get with the foam. I have to make an end
module, but I plan on making it 2x5. Thank you for your advice.
dave h.

Dave,
Your new end module that is going to be 5' long sounds intriguing.

Got

any special ideas for an end module that large/
Loren

--- In Z-Bend_Track@..., "Dave Hjortnaes" <dlhort1955@...>
wrote:

I will continue to use wooden legs, but will think strongly about
using a foam base instead of a thin piece of plywood. I love the
depth you are able to get with the foam. I have to make an end
module, but I plan on making it 2x5. Thank you for your advice.
dave h.

Dave,
Your new end module that is going to be 5' long sounds intriguing. Got
any special ideas for an end module that large/
Loren

United we stand, divided we fall. My T module is not the most stable
module either, but when we connect other modules to the 3 sides, we
find they hold up quite well. Is this what we call strength in
numbers?

I will continue to use wooden legs, but will think strongly about
using a foam base instead of a thin piece of plywood. I love the
depth you are able to get with the foam. I have to make an end
module, but I plan on making it 2x5. Thank you for your advice.

dave h.

However, when I look at your 4 foot pvc legs, I wonder how you
maintain stability without any cross braces. It looks like it would
be as wobbly as a newborn fawn. What do you do to correct that?

Thank you.

Dave H.

Dave,

You are absolutely right. By themselves they are as wobbly as a newborn
fawn but, when connected to other modules, they work just fine. At NTS
2005 both of my modules supported modules without legs that were
attached to the layout. I was surprised at how wobbly a module with
banquet table legs was. Evidently, there is strength in numbers.

Thom

For my modules, I use 1x2x48" drops, tied together at the bottom (pick a
height) and the top (flush, just under the end's bottom edge of the module).
Get wood from Home Depot, Lowes or lumber yard, Try for no knot and a
little simple sanding followed by white primer and. Very light weight but
somewhat bulky 2x4 square. Stack on top of each other.

Material: 3 pieces 96x1x2", 4ea #12x1-1/4 wood screws per module
(if you cant find #10 or #12 x 1-1/4 screws, use more common 1-1/2 but
grind off an 1/8 of the tip or it will likely poke threw when over
countersunk)

Construction: (assuming 3/4" wood framing on module):
cut two of the 96"x1x2 in half (~ 48" each)
from last 96", cut four pieces at 22-1/2" (that's 22 and a half !)
clamp legs into the corner.
clamp 22-1/2 up against bottom of module, across module end side.
drill #10 or #12 pilot hole (use special drill bits (e.g. cheap Ryobi
set) or single bit followed by countersink)
remove 22-1/2 piece, apply glue and replace while screwing.
ditto on the bottom, pick a height. Against floor (it will be 1.5"
higher with the feet installed) or use a spacer of some sort to set the
height off the floor.

Securing (others have commented already so sort of a cumulative):
Drill a 5/16 thru hole, half way down from the "inside" top (underside
of foam, etc.)

- Flat head 2" bolt from outside of module, flat washer and wing nut inside
- T-nut or threaded insert on outside, winged bolt x 1.5" on inside
(all avail at Home Depot or Lowes)

Feet: buy 1/4 treaded inserts. Usually brass or Cad-plate (silver). Make
sure they have sharp blades, like the ones Home Depot have, NOT the very
obvious course screw as it WILL split the wood.
Drill the appropriate size drill to clear the larges part of the
threaded insert body (not the threading fins :). If you have a complete
x/64's increment drill set, go 1/64 more, there's plenty of grip in these
things, believe me. Make sure you drill STRAIGHT and at least 1-1/2 to 2"
deep.
put a C-clamp across the narrow width of the leg to help keep the wood
from splitting. A vise or Vise-Grips (R) will do too.
thread the insert in with the supplied hex key.
The feet can be standard carriage bolts (2" or so) or elevator bolts (large
flat thin head) avail from Lowes. Mark the thread where 50" track height
would be, assuming a flat floor.
Buckeye Fasteners make the perfect big foot with rubber caps as an option
but I have yet to find a distributor that stocks small quantities for us or
will order same.

Setup:
module on its side. Lay legs up into corner, hold top cross brace like
a trombone slide against module end. Install screws. Other end and stand
module up.

If you are attached to others, it will be stable or you don't have to
install both ends (share with another :)
If you want more stability, simple 46-1/2 long horizontal cross braces at
the bottom between the legs will do. Clamp, pin or screw in place.

For table tops, cut 12", drill 5/16 hole and attach as above. No need for
cross bracing at this height.

Jeff

--- In Z-Bend_Track@..., "Thomas Welsch" <rvn20012000@...>
wrote:

How do you fasten legs to a module that only has a wooden frame

and

no

wooden support for the foam deck?

Dear Thomas:

I saw your module at NTS and loved your trestle work. I think your
method of attaching bolts for when displaying on a table is great.
However, when I look at your 4 foot pvc legs, I wonder how you
maintain stability without any cross braces. It looks like it would
be as wobbly as a newborn fawn. What do you do to correct that?

Thank you.

Dave H.

How do you fasten legs to a module that only has a wooden frame and

no

wooden support for the foam deck?

Hello Pierre,

The MidweZt HaulerZ enjoy options. That is why I made legs that screw
into my modules. We like to display our modules on a table top for
better viewing by kids and anyone else who might be height
restricted. I put a 2" X 2" block of wood in each corner of my
modules to support the legs. When we display on table tops, we use
1/4-20 X 2" or 3" carriage bolts to level the modules. When we
display with others (like at NTS 2005) I attach 1" PVC pipe legs to
the same leg supports. One of our members uses banquet table legs
with conduit extensions mounted to separate pieces of wood that he
attaches to his module with screws through the frame. I've posted
pictures of my module legs and support in the Photos section of this
group under "Thom'Z ModuleZ"

If you've got a "standard" 2' X 4' module, and you intend to set up
at only one height, I would suggest the banquet legs mounted to a
separate piece of wood mounted to the frame for stability.

I've always tried to keep as many options open as possible while
still keeping things simple.

I hope this helps,
Thom Welsch
MidweZt HaulerZ

Dear Pierre:

What we at the WIZkids have done is put T-nuts into the frame of the
module. You also use T-nuts at the bottom of the leg to put in
leveling screws.

I personally used 2x2 oak for my legs. It is not cheap, but I know it
will last a long time. Then I use the extra 1x4 pine to make the
cross braces. Each pair of legs looks like the letter 'H', and then
there are 2 more portable braces that connect the 2 leg pairs together.

There is a hole drilled through each leg. An eyebolt with a washer
goes through the hole in the leg, and screws into the T-nut. Go to a
True Value or Ace hardware store to get eyebolts and T-nuts. The big
guys like Lowe's, Home Depot, and Menards usually do not have the
right stuff.

I could e-mail you a picture if you would like. I have never figured
out how to send a picture to yahoo. With my software it is a pain in
the butt, so I gave up.

Hope this helps, and have a great time with Randy and the rest at
Philadelphia.

Dave H.

Hi Pierre,
I'd check with Rockler,The Woodcrafters Store, Lee Valley or one of the
other online wood working suppliers for card or other folding table leg
hardware.
Cheers,
Jay Greer

on 3/27/06 6:45, Pierre Vautravers at pierre.vautravers@... wrote:

If you are making wooden legs, then yes, a simple lag bolt (or two)
through the wooden sides of the modules into the legs will work.

While I don't have any modules, I do a lot of other wood work. I would
be concerned with using lag bolts over time as the holes will loosen and
eventually strip. My preferred method would be to use a long bolt
(preferably with a long shoulder to help minimize the hole being reamed
out) going into a captured nut of some type...minimally a blind nut. And
I would probably use two, one in each direction crossing (as long as I
could bury the head of the bolt so as not to interfere with the
module-to-module interface).

Similarly for leg length adjustment, at a minimum you can drill out a
deep hole in the bottom, insert a blind nut, and use a bolt for height
adjustment. 'Special' furniture units can be bought as a set, but I find
it easy to just buy the individual pieces.

Pierre,

There are many different types of legs that folks here are using. If you are making wooden legs, then yes, a simple lag bolt (or two) through the wooden sides of the modules into the legs will work. This is how I have done my module legs.

Others use fold-down table legs that are attached to the bottom of the modules (ala Northwest Crossing in Houston) or some kind of bracket to slip the legs into.

Randy Smidt

Pierre Vautravers <pierre.vautravers@...> wrote:
Hello,

My name is Pierre and I am new to building modules. I have been
collecting for a few years and I am a member of the TriState Z Scalers.

I will build a module for NTS 2006 in Philadelphia and I have
appreciated all the recent postings about how to build a module. But I
have a question.

How do you fasten legs to a module that only has a wooden frame and no
wooden support for the foam deck? Do you use a lag bolt though the 1x4
frame? Is there some kind of fitting that I do not know about? Are the
legs round or square?

Thanks for sharing all your knowledge. All Z best, Pierre

I cut 4 pieces of 1 x 6 long enough to fit inside the frame. 2 are
glued and screwed against the ends and the other two are placed to be
able to screw the leg braces into them.

I use table leg sets that are available from Home Depot and other home
improvement stores and then add pvc or copper tubing extensions on them.

At the end of each leg you add bolts that are used as levelers. The
leveling system choice is up to each individual

1. Insert wood dowels into the end of the rigid copper tubing or pvc,
securing with screws and having holes drilled into the dowel and
inserting a threaded insert or tee nuts and using a ?” or 3/8” carriage
bolt.

2. I found some appliance leveling devices that fit electrical pvc.
They are easy to turn and don’t need a wrench.

The choice is yours.

Larry D
San Antonio