开云体育

photos when I can get it outside for better shots a after a I get a little
color on it.

Jeff M.
SF Bay Area 'BAZ Boys'
BAZ Modules

All:

Please take note that Z-Bend Track is proliferating to other countries
outside the USA.

We have several new members who joined this list and have indicated that they
(or group of modelers in some cases) are starting Z-Bend Track layouts
(and/or group modules) in:

Switzerland
Italy
New Zealand
Brazil
Australia
Germany (the ZBT manual is available in the German language now)
Canada

I proposed that we have a World Z-Bend Track Convention in some neutral
place...maybe on the beach in Tahiti? <smile>

Please welcome the new members and new countries.

Bill Kronenberger
Houston

Robert:

I am really happy we decided to go with Z-Bend Track as our club's
modular standard, and even happier we have lots of bends instead of
the traditional N-Trak style modules. ZBT is great!

Excellent progress report. To the best of my knowledge, you folks are the
first ever to build a "Y" module. Makes me want to run out and make one myself.


Bill K.
Houston

Last Sunday I took my new 15 degree module to Jeff's so we could debug
our new modules. (the BAZ group in the SF Bay Area) Much to my
satisfaction, Jeff's modules have nice bends in them too.

Jeff has an S Curve module that jogs the track over 4 or 5 inches, a
2-part Y module which looks really neat, a 3'x 4' balloon module with
wide sweeping superelevated turns, and a small 2' square balloon
module with a small test loop in the middle. All Jeff's mainline turns
and bends are superelevated, as are my minimal balloon modules, and we
did run smoothside passenger trains, which looked so cool as the cars
negotiated all the turns on this crazy bending layout we setup last
Sunday.

I am really happy we decided to go with Z-Bend Track as our club's
modular standard, and even happier we have lots of bends instead of
the traditional N-Trak style modules. ZBT is great!

-Robert

--- In Z-Bend_Track@..., zbendtrack@a... wrote:

Rule 4:? Do NOT ever, ever assume that that brand new locos or a

piece of

rolling stock came to you with the wheels in gauge.? About 60% of

MTL F7's

arrive, brand new, with one or more axle out-of-gauge (almost

always too wide).?

About 20% of Marlin products are too narrow.?

A $10 MTL track gauge is the best $10 you will ever spend.? If an

axle is too

wide, it will get pinched in the expansion track, forcing the axle

up into

the air...creating a jolt to the entire train...and risking

derailment.? If an

axle is too narrow, it will love the expansion track...but derail

at the first

turnout, crossover or double slip.?

Yes, the track / coupler / wheel gauge is one of the most useful
tools for that critical wheel gauge setting.

As for MTL F7s, lately they have been much better. There may still
be older units in dealer stock, but in a recent purchase of many
replacement wheelsets all were bang-on. Newly purchased locos are
far less likely to have wheels out of gauge than they were a year
ago. And yes, usually they are (were) gauged too wide. Actually i
have never seen a MTL wheelset gauged too narrow.

If too wide, undo the two screws in the truck bottoms and lift the
plastic sideframe and wheels out, mark them for re-install in exactly
the same position. Place the offending wheelset in a pair of large
offset jaw pliers and squeeze gently. Offset jaw places the squeeze
force straight inline with the axle so you don't bend the axle and
cause wobble. A 'click' will be felt as the wheels slide into their
proper position. Do not overdo it past the click, its a lot easier
to squeeze into gauge than pull back out again if set too narrow.

Bill,

Good to periodically reinforce this point and detail.

I did not know track was thicker. Now I'll have to trim my cork a bit. good thing I'm just starting the track work. Can you please update the Z-bend Module Standards document, pg 10 to reflect this detail as it does not state the issues 1) First 2-1/8" of roadbed needs to be lower and 2) modification of the 8592 expansion track. (can you also add page #'s too)

Also, MicroTrains' flex track has slightly thinner 'profile' as the rails are closer to the ties than Marklin. This results in a higher effective rail height for the MT track (there will be about a 0.015" gap under the MT flex when mated to Marklin). This would make the mating to the Marklin 8592 expansion even worse.

To improve our clubs module interconnection strength, we have added to additional holes 9.5" from either side of centerline plus one at centerline (depends on who has done what with the center of the modules), 1.25" from the top. This allows the gap between the top edges of the module to better controlled.

I have been working on a template jig for both starting track layout and drilling the holes, just have to keep prodding the son at the machine shop to get it done. This will help better control all the critical dimensions related to 1:220. Especially when one builds with pre-cut 2x2 or 2x4 panels, always less than 24" :)

Jeff Merrill
SF Bay Area BAZ Boys

zbendtrack@... wrote:
Hi all:

I got an off-line question from one of the list members regarding Expansion
Tracks between modules. The question was a good one, and the answers may help
several of you building home layouts and/or modules.

Regards,
Bill K.

- - - offline answer - - -

Here are best tips I know of, and the combination has worked here for 7
years...and...several other ZBT groups report it works fine for them, too. And
almost all of the ZBT modules at the NTS conformed...or were made to conform on
the spot...and the expansion tracks were not an issue during the show.

Rule 1: Your fixed module tracks must stop 2 and 1/8 inches from the end of
your module. No more, no less. Work hard to get it to the nearest +/- 32nd
of an inch. Equip all rail ends with a rail joiner, both sides. There will be
no rail joiners on the expansion track.

Rule 2: Your roadbed must be lowered 1/16 to 1/8 of an inch relative to your
fixed track. The expansion track is a silly millimeter thicker than
"standard" track and will bow up into an arch if it is forced to set on the same
height cork roadbed your fixed track is sitting on. The expansion track will also
bow up if the modules on either side have rails that are too long, thereby
squeezing the hell out of the expansion section.

Rule 3: Modify the expansion track as follows:

Turn the track over on its rails, and use a hobby knife to cut the plastic
link to the first and last plastic ties. At that point, the first/last ties
will only be held on by their molded-in spikes. Peel the first/last ties off
with your fingers and discard them.

Then grab the end of a rail joiner with needle nose pliers and rotate the
handles...the joiner will peel off like a banana peel. So long as you don't bend
the rail itself, the method of removing the joiner is not critical.

If you don't remove the first and last ties, the four rails will not be able
to move independently...and that will cause more problems than you can
imagine.

Rule 4: Do NOT ever, ever assume that that brand new locos or a piece of
rolling stock came to you with the wheels in gauge. About 60% of MTL F7's
arrive, brand new, with one or more axle out-of-gauge (almost always too wide).
About 20% of Marlin products are too narrow.

A $10 MTL track gauge is the best $10 you will ever spend. If an axle is too
wide, it will get pinched in the expansion track, forcing the axle up into
the air...creating a jolt to the entire train...and risking derailment. If an
axle is too narrow, it will love the expansion track...but derail at the first
turnout, crossover or double slip.

Mind you, crossovers and double slips are not allowed on ZBT mainline because
there is no standard wheel profile in Z (Marklin, MTL, AXL, FR, etc)...and
these two products really need to be relabeled as "prototype derailers" when it
comes to Z because of the wide range of wheel and axle designs out there.

If you need help in correcting wheel gauge, drop me a note and I'll share my
corrective experiences on that topic.

Important: Mark the bottom of your expansion track with "your" two color
paints. Failure to do this will tend to reduce your supply of expansion tracks
by one piece at each public show. No, its not on purpose...but unmarked track
looks just like the other guys during module disassembly and packing things
away.

As far as brands of track:
There should be zero difference between rail products (MTL, Peco, Marklin).
Their basic rail profile differs only by a few ten thousands of an inch. I
don't use MTL because the sections are too short to work with. And I can't
afford Aspen or Wright matching turnouts. But others do use it, and report no
problems mating it to Marklin expansion tracks after observing rules 1-4 above.

Hope this helps ... let me know how the fixes work for you.
Bill K.
Houston








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Hi all:

I got an off-line question from one of the list members regarding Expansion
Tracks between modules. The question was a good one, and the answers may help
several of you building home layouts and/or modules.

Regards,
Bill K.

- - - offline answer - - -

Here are best tips I know of, and the combination has worked here for 7
years...and...several other ZBT groups report it works fine for them, too.? And
almost all of the ZBT modules at the NTS conformed...or were made to conform on
the spot...and the expansion tracks were not an issue during the show.

Rule 1:? Your fixed module tracks must stop 2 and 1/8 inches from the end of
your module.? No more, no less.? Work hard to get it to the nearest +/- 32nd
of an inch.? Equip all rail ends with a rail joiner, both sides.? There will be
no rail joiners on the expansion track.

Rule 2:? Your roadbed must be lowered 1/16 to 1/8 of an inch relative to your
fixed track.? The expansion track is a silly millimeter thicker than
"standard" track and will bow up into an arch if it is forced to set on the same
height cork roadbed your fixed track is sitting on.? The expansion track will also
bow up if the modules on either side have rails that are too long, thereby
squeezing the hell out of the expansion section.

Rule 3:? Modify the expansion track as follows:

Turn the track over on its rails, and use a hobby knife to cut the plastic
link to the first and last plastic ties.? At that point, the first/last ties
will only be held on by their molded-in spikes.? Peel the first/last ties off
with your fingers and discard them.

Then grab the end of a rail joiner with needle nose pliers and rotate the
handles...the joiner will peel off like a banana peel.? So long as you don't bend
the rail itself, the method of removing the joiner is not critical.

If you don't remove the first and last ties, the four rails will not be able
to move independently...and that will cause more problems than you can
imagine.

Rule 4:? Do NOT ever, ever assume that that brand new locos or a piece of
rolling stock came to you with the wheels in gauge.? About 60% of MTL F7's
arrive, brand new, with one or more axle out-of-gauge (almost always too wide).?
About 20% of Marlin products are too narrow.?

A $10 MTL track gauge is the best $10 you will ever spend.? If an axle is too
wide, it will get pinched in the expansion track, forcing the axle up into
the air...creating a jolt to the entire train...and risking derailment.? If an
axle is too narrow, it will love the expansion track...but derail at the first
turnout, crossover or double slip.?

Mind you, crossovers and double slips are not allowed on ZBT mainline because
there is no standard wheel profile in Z (Marklin, MTL, AXL, FR, etc)...and
these two products really need to be relabeled as "prototype derailers" when it
comes to Z because of the wide range of wheel and axle designs out there.

If you need help in correcting wheel gauge, drop me a note and I'll share my
corrective experiences on that topic.

Important:? Mark the bottom of your expansion track with "your" two color
paints.? Failure to do this will tend to reduce your supply of expansion tracks
by one piece at each public show.? No, its not on purpose...but unmarked track
looks just like the other guys during module disassembly and packing things
away.

As far as brands of track:
There should be zero difference between rail products (MTL, Peco, Marklin).?
Their basic rail profile differs only by a few ten thousands of an inch.? I
don't use MTL because the sections are too short to work with.? And I can't
afford Aspen or Wright matching turnouts.? But others do use it, and report no
problems mating it to Marklin expansion tracks after observing rules 1-4 above.

Hope this helps ... let me know how the fixes work for you.
Bill K.
Houston




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

To those awaiting ZBT cables, the following cable orders were shipped
Saturday morning by Priority Mail:

Zip Code USPS Tracking number
98625 03051720000120846157
62966 03051720000120846164
97504 03051720000120846171

Enjoy,
Bill K.
Houston

Thank you for the help. I thought it best to ask rather than just start
experimenting. I have also been reminded that the first tie on each end of
the expansion track is to be removed. This should make it easier.



Thanks,

Robin

You can pull it off with a little effort. You will note that there is a
small notch in the joiner right were the simulated rail spikes are. You'll
likely damage the spikes so I just cut them off first. Make sure you hold
the track down firmly, especially that last tie. I place it right at the
end of the table so that I can cleanly grab the joiner (you'll crush the
normal joining end).

I've had a few that I think must have been REALLY molded on as I could not
get them off without a little extra work around the spikes but that was just
3-5 out of hundreds.

Jeff M
SF Bay Area (BAZ)

Robin:

How do I get that connector off of the 8592 track?

Turn the track over on its rails, and use a hobby knife to cut the plastic
link to the first and last plastic ties. At that point, the first/last ties
will only be held on by their molded-in spikes. Peel the first/last ties off
with your fingers and discard them.

Then grab the end of a rail joiner with needle nose pliers and rotate the
handles...the joiner will peel off like a banana peel. So long as you don't bend
the rail itself, the method of removing the joiner is not critical.

If you don't remove the first and last ties, the four rails will not be able
to move independently...and that will cause more problems than you can
imagine.

Hope this helps,
Bill K.
Houston

My understanding is that I need to remove the marklin track connector
from the 8592 track so that it can plug into the connectors on the
module track.

How do I get that connector off of the 8592 track?

Thanks,
Robin

All:

Many of you have been looking for affordable sources of 8592 expansion tracks
for your Z-Bend Track modules. Here's one.

Helmut is the fellow that sells manual turnouts for sets for $8.50 each, and
other bargains as well. I know a half dozen folks who have done business with
this German seller, and to date, all have glowing reports of a prompt
shipment, as-advertised, no-complications purchases. I bought $220 worth of turnouts
from this fellow and got them in 5 days after a PayPal payment.

I wrote to Helmut and asked if he could supply expansion tracks. He can.
His price is $4.70 Euros ($5.85usd). All his past orders (that I'm aware of)
cost $6.00 usd to ship to the USA. I believe he only accepts PayPal payments.

Sounds like an opportunity for groups/clubs to make group orders, huh? His
email address can be found below.

Regards,
Bill K.
Houston

- - - - - Helmut's response - - - - -

From: toys@...
Sent from the Internet (Details)

Hello,
the track 8592 costs the piece with us without value added tax 4.70 Euro.
Greeting Helmut :-)
?
- - - - - - - -



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Those are great photos. I now see that the reason it looks like
real dirt and rocks is because it is.

Thanks, Robin

--- In Z-Bend_Track@..., "pray59_3" <pray59@s...> wrote:

I have some photo's of Tom's club's Nn3 One Trak modules taken at

the

GATS in SF last winter:

<>

They uses Bragdon's foam rock molding system, and weathering

powders.

They also use lots of natural dirts, and decomposed rocks in their
scenery, for a very natural appearance.

There are also some photo's of his Z Scale Marklin Mogul that he
modified to look more like a recognisable Narrow Gauge Mogul.


-Robert

I'm not a geologist but notice Bragdon uses the same term. What is
"decomposed rock"??

Thanks.

Don

In a message dated 8/8/05 4:57:26 PM, d.f.avila@... writes:

decomposed rock

It is rocks that has been exposed to the elements. It can be very different
after the affects of water, heat, cold, etc get to it.

For instance, it Switzerland, the mined rocks used for ballast are all a
light, bright gray. The same rocks exposed to the elements are dark brown, almost
purple.

Rob Kluz



Ztrack Magazine Ltd.
6142 Northcliff Blvd.
Dublin, OH 43016
phone/fax: (614) 764-1703

Distributor for American Z Line

I have some photo's of Tom's club's Nn3 One Trak modules taken at the
GATS in SF last winter:

<>

They uses Bragdon's foam rock molding system, and weathering powders.
They also use lots of natural dirts, and decomposed rocks in their
scenery, for a very natural appearance.

There are also some photo's of his Z Scale Marklin Mogul that he
modified to look more like a recognisable Narrow Gauge Mogul.


-Robert

--- In Z-Bend_Track@..., "Robin" <robinchris@k...> wrote:

In the photos file under "some layout pix" dated Aug. 24, 2001 there
are pictures from member trknapp. Does anyone know how the
"dirt" on the layout in the photo was made? It looks so real! Just
when you think your scenery is looking good, you see something like
this and get blown away.

Hello Robin

Those pictures are of Tom Knapp's Nn3 modules.

Go to and join the Nn3 Yahoo Group at;



I know there has been discussion on how he does his great job on
modeling dusty, dirty ground cover. He has modeled a lot of it in the
process of modeling the Southern Pacific in California in Nn3.

You can search the past Nn3 messages for words like 'dirt' or phrases
related to that, and you should find a number of references as to how
he gets such a good looking result. Naturally you can just ask the
question in the group after you join too ;^)

If anyone would want to see, I have a few captures from a video camera
car I was running on the Nn3 layout at the 2002 National Narrow Gauge
convention in Warwick RI. The ones that were taken on Tom's modules
are very nice because of the structures and terrain. They aren't of Z
scale subjects naturally, but might show the kind of detail in the
ground cover and track that you could expect from Tom's techniques. I
don't remember if the track was Peco Z, or handlaid code 40, or a mix
of both but looks very nice either way. I could leave the pictures up
for only a relatively short time then delete them. The depth of field
isn't too great, but when watching the video, it can be a benefit
because it keeps the people and exhibit hall in the background from
distracting too much from the railroad in the near foreground.

Thanks,
Jim Hoover

In the photos file under "some layout pix" dated Aug. 24, 2001 there
are pictures from member trknapp. Does anyone know how the
"dirt" on the layout in the photo was made? It looks so real! Just
when you think your scenery is looking good, you see something like
this and get blown away.

{TIC}

You must be tired daddy, assuming that your little one WILL decide on Z. :)
I really think we should allow our children to choose for themselves.

It is up to us to educate them and then at the right age, 18 or 21, they
should decide for themselves!
Now don't get upset if he becomes a N scaler, or maybe N & Z, HOn30 is
becoming the new thing.
Maybe he will just brush off Z altogether, then what will you do?

We must undeniably love our children, no matter what scale they decide on.

And you have NO idea what tired really is, wait until he wants to put that
decoder in that Z scale engine (with no room).
Or the day he says.. Lets convert the entire basement or garage into a
'model railroad empire',
Then you will learn what tired really is!

You are also required to memorize every episode of 'Thomas the Tank Engine
and Friends'.
They have some great stories! Rev Awdry may have been ahead of his time.

Finally there are nursery stories where someone doesn't fall down and break
into a million pieces
Or some lady has so many children she doesn't know what to do, and now we
know why we are afraid of spiders...

Richie Einhorn 'DOTS' Protecting Children's Rights to 'Decide On Train
Scales' Organization

www.TheTrainShow.com Producer/Director Watch us ONLINE anytime! 'All
Aboard' RFD-TV Satellite, Coast-to-Coast

"Honorary Member" Long Island Live Steamers

Richard Einhorn