Bill,
Good to periodically reinforce this point and detail.
I did not know track was thicker. Now I'll have to trim my cork a bit. good thing I'm just starting the track work. Can you please update the Z-bend Module Standards document, pg 10 to reflect this detail as it does not state the issues 1) First 2-1/8" of roadbed needs to be lower and 2) modification of the 8592 expansion track. (can you also add page #'s too)
Also, MicroTrains' flex track has slightly thinner 'profile' as the rails are closer to the ties than Marklin. This results in a higher effective rail height for the MT track (there will be about a 0.015" gap under the MT flex when mated to Marklin). This would make the mating to the Marklin 8592 expansion even worse.
To improve our clubs module interconnection strength, we have added to additional holes 9.5" from either side of centerline plus one at centerline (depends on who has done what with the center of the modules), 1.25" from the top. This allows the gap between the top edges of the module to better controlled.
I have been working on a template jig for both starting track layout and drilling the holes, just have to keep prodding the son at the machine shop to get it done. This will help better control all the critical dimensions related to 1:220. Especially when one builds with pre-cut 2x2 or 2x4 panels, always less than 24" :)
Jeff Merrill
SF Bay Area BAZ Boys
zbendtrack@... wrote:
Hi all:
I got an off-line question from one of the list members regarding Expansion
Tracks between modules. The question was a good one, and the answers may help
several of you building home layouts and/or modules.
Regards,
Bill K.
- - - offline answer - - -
Here are best tips I know of, and the combination has worked here for 7
years...and...several other ZBT groups report it works fine for them, too. And
almost all of the ZBT modules at the NTS conformed...or were made to conform on
the spot...and the expansion tracks were not an issue during the show.
Rule 1: Your fixed module tracks must stop 2 and 1/8 inches from the end of
your module. No more, no less. Work hard to get it to the nearest +/- 32nd
of an inch. Equip all rail ends with a rail joiner, both sides. There will be
no rail joiners on the expansion track.
Rule 2: Your roadbed must be lowered 1/16 to 1/8 of an inch relative to your
fixed track. The expansion track is a silly millimeter thicker than
"standard" track and will bow up into an arch if it is forced to set on the same
height cork roadbed your fixed track is sitting on. The expansion track will also
bow up if the modules on either side have rails that are too long, thereby
squeezing the hell out of the expansion section.
Rule 3: Modify the expansion track as follows:
Turn the track over on its rails, and use a hobby knife to cut the plastic
link to the first and last plastic ties. At that point, the first/last ties
will only be held on by their molded-in spikes. Peel the first/last ties off
with your fingers and discard them.
Then grab the end of a rail joiner with needle nose pliers and rotate the
handles...the joiner will peel off like a banana peel. So long as you don't bend
the rail itself, the method of removing the joiner is not critical.
If you don't remove the first and last ties, the four rails will not be able
to move independently...and that will cause more problems than you can
imagine.
Rule 4: Do NOT ever, ever assume that that brand new locos or a piece of
rolling stock came to you with the wheels in gauge. About 60% of MTL F7's
arrive, brand new, with one or more axle out-of-gauge (almost always too wide).
About 20% of Marlin products are too narrow.
A $10 MTL track gauge is the best $10 you will ever spend. If an axle is too
wide, it will get pinched in the expansion track, forcing the axle up into
the air...creating a jolt to the entire train...and risking derailment. If an
axle is too narrow, it will love the expansion track...but derail at the first
turnout, crossover or double slip.
Mind you, crossovers and double slips are not allowed on ZBT mainline because
there is no standard wheel profile in Z (Marklin, MTL, AXL, FR, etc)...and
these two products really need to be relabeled as "prototype derailers" when it
comes to Z because of the wide range of wheel and axle designs out there.
If you need help in correcting wheel gauge, drop me a note and I'll share my
corrective experiences on that topic.
Important: Mark the bottom of your expansion track with "your" two color
paints. Failure to do this will tend to reduce your supply of expansion tracks
by one piece at each public show. No, its not on purpose...but unmarked track
looks just like the other guys during module disassembly and packing things
away.
As far as brands of track:
There should be zero difference between rail products (MTL, Peco, Marklin).
Their basic rail profile differs only by a few ten thousands of an inch. I
don't use MTL because the sections are too short to work with. And I can't
afford Aspen or Wright matching turnouts. But others do use it, and report no
problems mating it to Marklin expansion tracks after observing rules 1-4 above.
Hope this helps ... let me know how the fixes work for you.
Bill K.
Houston
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