开云体育

I don't recall if I posted this request before, but here goes: I'm looking for a source of 1 millimeter valve gear screws. PFM once stocked them many moons ago. I have just a few and need some more

Pulleys work in parallel lines...straight through. They aren't happy with 90 degree turns. Square cut bands and four sharp corners that will try to ride up. You can't use a pulley on the motor

Just noticed my goof in the last paragraph. It's not aSalami motor, it's a Sagami motor. My spell check did that because it thinks the word should be salami. Richard in Vermont

This is, once again, something I've thought about but not actually experimented with for lack of a layout so bear that in mind... I have a few Varney spring drive F3s and I did find some O rings at a

Thanks for all your replies, that is exactly what I was hoping for. This is an experimental project so any and all inputs are very welcome. I have to make a correction before going any further. The

Thanks for all your replies. They are exactly what I was hoping for. This is an experimental project so an and all inputs are very welcome. My feeling is that if I can find the right pulleys and belt

I would think spring belts would suffer the same defects as the rubber band drives. Stored energy on acceleration and uncontrolled release on deceleration. Chuck Peck [yardbirdtrains]

Spring belt might be better than rubber bands. The issue will be the belt climbing in a 90 degree drive. Springs work somewhat better due to round cross section. But: You have zero gear

I was always disappointed by the jerkiness of the Athearn rubber band drives. Possibly some modern O-rings may do better. I would look at toothed belts if it were not for the right angle

Similar to the early locos that Athearn powered with rubber bands many years ago, I am going to try and re-power an old Mantua 0-4-0 with a pulley and belt, the advantage being quiet operation. So I'm

As if there aren't enough things going on ??b I'm trying to find a decent photo of a n antenna system on an M1a long distance tender . small doggy house and buckeye trucks ?? Many , many differences

Thanks Jeff !! Wow .Many differences . Henry H.

Hello list, I don't have a Cary M1 boiler to compare with my Bowser M1, but I do have a Cary I1s boiler that I could compare with my Bowser I1sa 2-10-0.?? My Bowser I1sa has the late production

Guys, I am no rivet counter. I just think the history of these models and how they evolved is interesting. As to the Cary I1, I also have two different Cary i1 boilers. The older boiler is maybe very

Also keep in mind that some model drawings in the various magazines weren't exact either and were used by manufacturers to produce models. Roger HuberDeer Creek Locomotive Works

Gents, please keep in mind that many models have been designed from RR drawing or even from diagrams. As a result, the model boiler was based on the actual diameter of the boiler. This did not

Jeff ! I did a side by side comparison of the brass boilered I1 and it's brother ? The Brass one is a bigger diameter across , the sand domes are slightly differentas are the turret cover casting >

I have ordered 6 of those motors, thank you. I will look into the Sagami motor later. \\ Mush Appreciated. Nathan Rich yardbirdtrains@...> wrote:

P.S. As far as the conversion, it was literally a drop-in fit. It screwed right to the mount with two metric washer head screws I salvaged from some piece of electronics. The shaft is just silicone

Nathan, Fortunately I kept the paperwork with the loco. It was a NWSL 2027 Sagami, so that should help you with an equivalent. It was rated at 9100 RPM at 12V, which is a bit speedy in these if