Forgive me if I am too simplistic here: It is a common thing for non- electronically inclined people to say "shorted out" when an electrical item "does not work", but this misnomer confuses trouble shooting. First, please understand the difference between "shorting out" and "having intermittent contact". My guess is that the problem is the latter, common with models that have never been run. But, if the the real symptom is drawing lots of current ---dimming of the indicator light (if you have one) or a heavy "buzzing sound" when the power is applied on your power supply, then it is shorting out. The trouble shooting steps and fixing is different for each symptom.


If the unit is indeed new in the box and for real shorted out, what I would look for first is a tender truck that is installed backwards (turned 180*). All four insulated wheels of the tender should be on the engineer's side.? A stuck motor or mechanism can look like a short, and this sometimes happens. Applying power and "helping" the mechanism by hand at first can break things free if they are temporarily stuck. When the motor begins to run, the excessive current that looks like a short will go away. It is always a good idea to properly re-lubricate any machinery that has been inactive for 20 years. That means a sparing drop of medium weight oil on the moving parts, such as the motor bearings, worm and pinion, axle bearings and side rods at their pins. Model steam engines for the most part use the side rods to transmit running forces to the non-geared drive wheels, so these are crucial for good operation and longevity to be lubricated.

A stuck mechanism is possible if the side rods and valve gear have been damaged or out of place. I don't remember if the Lindberg engine model has valve gear, but the real #460 did. Since steam has been gone from the scene for so long, more and more people find the side rods and valve gear to be a total mystery. They must be set right or the engine will at best not run right, and at worst be stuck, thus locking the motor and looking like a short electrically. If you do all the suggestions here and have no success, shoot a good, close picture of both sides of the engine and post them to us to see of they rods are set right. Many of us here on Yardbirds understand both the real thing and model representations of them.

The best test for a newly running engine is to run it on the bench (after careful lubrication) before ever putting it on the track, just to loosen it up a bit. This is done by supporting the engine and tender in some sort of cradle upside down. Power from the power pack is applied to the engine and tender and this eliminates the probable contact problems at the wheels. One wire to the engine frame somewhere and the other to the tender, run the engine both ways for a few minute at medium speed. Then, while running lightly polish the drive wheel surface with 1000 grit emery paper to polish the tire's running surfaces. Polishing the metal surfaces of the tender truck wheels is more tedious as you must polish each wheel by hand. Get 'em good and shiny and the engine should run just fine on clean track. If the engine will not run in this manner and there was sparking of the wires where they contacted to engine or tender frame, then you do indeed have a short.

Clean track is also important, a similar polishing of the rail heads helps a lot too.

The engine must first run well on DC, though the standard motor used is not the best for DCC operation. It can be adapted though, if you are willing to modify the motor a little. Our mentor and sponsor Dan at Yardbird Trains offers a very nice upgrade motor and flywheel kit that can solve a lot of the problems Mantua and Tyco engines have out of the box and for easier conversion to DCC.

Try the above steps and get back to us, hope this helps.

Tom Knowles
NOTE NEW ADDRESS:  tomk@...

On 3/21/2013 4:26 PM, cwvpost1 wrote: