Yeah, I have been inside both devices and have pics, plus some tech documents I've been able to find.
I'm excited to share what I have an what I will learn as I move forward with this 'swap'.? I have a busy couple of months ahead, but I look forward to trying this before the end of the year.
Thanks for the advice and encouragement.
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Indeed, the real PITA is the dust: whan I did the mod I worled under a hood vent, but something stuck on the panel anyway, and I used scotch tape to try and remove it.
@ QY6000000: the Host Selector switch is fully operating, actually I use MIDI, and had no issues so far.
Finally, I second using the included resistor, @Eric is right on excluding the resistor. The LED is "dim" enough to have the LCD lighted, without being too bright.
Best to all, and keep up QYing!
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Re: QY100 goose neck lamp
Hi @kaltar... your gooseneck thing is making me rethink my backlit mod... no tampering inside the QY, and looks great!
Keep up the good work
PS: and the second lamp can be fitted with a regulator into an XLR to light up the mixing desk using a phantom mic channel, other fun project.
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@larrydanna
Oh my, you have the highly coveted Optrex DMF 50202NY-LY and you haven't transplanted it into the QY100 yet?? How is this possible, what are you waiting for?!?!?? LOL Have you looked inside the TG300 yet?? Do you have any pics??? If you're comfortable taking things apart, there is a good chance that removing the display from the TG300 wouldn't be destructive.? You may be able to temporarily "loan" it to the QY100 by simply unplugging it and removing the 4 screws holding it in place.?? If it's like the QY100, it probably has an 8 wire harness for the display that plugs into the main board.?? According to the datasheet there should be another 2 wire harness for the LED backlight.? I would guess that the display itself should have the same physical dimensions and the same electrical characteristics as the DMF 50202N.? My assumption would be that the display would work in the QY100 just by plugging it in, assuming the connector is the same, but you should compare the datasheets to be sure.? The real trick is powering the LED backlight.? If you could measure how the TG300 powers that, then you're getting very close. ? Looking at the datasheet, I'm not clear on what the LED backlight needs for power.? There is something about 16V reverse voltage and 7.6 - 8.8V forward voltage on page 7 of the datasheet, but I really have no idea what this means. Depending on what the power requirements are, you might be able to find somewhere in the QY100 to get this power.? This seems to be the main challenge.
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I meant pin 8! ?(my mistake) It¡¯s lower voltage but higher amp. You probably won¡¯t need the resistor.
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It¡¯s been over a year of its release, but no mention here. Since there are very few handheld music stations (walkstations), What do you think about this portable device?
I used trackers in the 90s and many times wished the QY70/100 had an input way like the trackers (the event list is far from it).?
It¡¯s looking to me like a better handheld composition device (for non handheld, performance and gear connectivity the QY is still the king), buts that just my point of view since I have experience in trackers.
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Very good points.? I never would have even considered the available current/watts.? I should say, I'm a TOTAL amateur with this stuff.? Seriously.? I find all of this very fascinating but I know next to nothing as far as electrical theory goes.
With that said...If Pin 7 can only deliver 4.84 mA, that will be a problem.? At 5V with the 82 ohm resistor in place, the frontlight draws 24mA. ?
Fortunately, the service manual is readily available.? Just looking over the block diagram on page 9, I can see at least one promising option.? Right after the 9V input, there is IC33 which delivers +5DC.? It's the giant transformer on the main board.? The part number is SI-8501L.?? That probably supplies the MIDI out and whatever else needs 5V. Looking at the datasheet, I found the output pin and I just measured it on the QY100.? It's right at 5V.? I have no idea how to determine if an extra 24mA will be a problem for this thing.? No clue.? Also, there is IC24 which feeds the contrast knob.? It says it converts from +5 to -10.? Maybe I could connect to the input which I'm guessing is fed by IC33.? ?
Is there any reason not to connect the frontlight directly to the output of IC33?? There couldn't be an easier spot to solder onto.? Fairly big pin with not much around it.
Too bad it'll take a couple weeks to get replacement kits, I'm chomping at the bit to get this done.
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On Mon, Sep 12, 2022 at 12:02 PM, <staffwrite@...> wrote:
There is probably a 5V regulator or something on the board to feed the MIDI out port.? If anyone knows where there is another 5V connection, I'm all ears.?
Hey Staffwrite, keep in mind that Voltage is not everything that needs to be considered, but the available amperage too, since more Watts is what you need. Going back to my measurements notes, the Computer Connector on the QY100 has the following: pin 6 : 3.86 V . 0.31 mA (1.19 mW) pin 7 : 4.94 V . 4.84 mA (23.9 mW) pin 8 : 3.61 V . 106.3 mA (383 mW) While the pin 7 has practically 5 V, there is very low mA, so low Wattage. pin 8 has only 3.6 V, but 22 times more amps! so more Watts.? When I made my gooseneck lamp, I took notes of everything, and I wrote "... pin 7 have a very dim light", and ".. pin 8 is perfect!" so maybe you just need to get it not from 5V, but from a higher amperage source (try pin 7!). And please document everything! YOU NEED TO SUCCEED! so later on you can write a step by step guide for us! :D
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I'm so glad to see this conversation.? It's nice to know I'm not alone.? I, too, have been thinking about this for a long time.
I even have a Optrex DMF 50202NY-LY on hand and I'm more tempted than ever to try the 'swap'.? Sadly I'd have to scavange it from my Yamaha TG300.? It would ease my pain a bit, if the TG300 could use the the QY100 screen.? I don't think I want to sacrifice a vintage piece of hardware.
That being said... the price of TG300 parts boxes might go up soon.? ;)? (... because the TG300 has the backlit screen we all need...)
I'll be sure to post any progress, here.? Thanks for the inspiration!
Best regards,
Larry
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Re: QY100 goose neck lamp
Kaltar,
Thanks!
Looks like I just picked up another fun little side project.
Best regards,
Larry
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Thanks for your reply.
The dust was driving me nuts so I opened it back up.? I peeled the frontlight off the double sided tape and blew it out with an actual air compressor, not a can of compressed air.? When I put it all back together, it was worse!? LOL.? I have no idea how that happened.? This time, it wasn't dust but strange marks appeared on the surface of the frontlight when it was lit.? Maybe peeling the it off the tape stressed the plastic or something.? I am going to order a couple more kits and do it again.? Also, I think I am going to make one of these for my next attempt:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xPEa0Wc9iUc
Also, next time, I am going to connect it to power and see if there are any defects BEFORE I install it.
I would like to explore this resistor issue a bit more.? The included resistor is actually 82 ¦¸.? I'm not sure why I thought it was 1 ¦¸.? I just did an experiment.? On the GBA, the frontlight is supplied with 5V so I just connected the frontlight to a 5V supply with the resistor in the circuit and measured 24 mA and the light is BRIGHT!!!? I didn't even try it without the resistor, I'm sure it would have been absurdly bright.? Then I connected the frontlight to 3V with the resistor in the circuit and measured 2.9 mA and the light was VERY dim.? Then I removed the resistor and measured 5 mA with a moderate improvement in brightness, but still MUCH dimmer than the 5V connection.? Correct me if I'm wrong, but if the frontlight is designed to handle 24 mA on the GBA shouldn't it be very comfortable at 5-10 mA on the QY100 without the resistor???? ?
For my next attempt at this, when the replacement kits arrive, I think I will connect the red wire of the front light to the +5V of the MIDI out connector and leave the resistor in the circuit.? This will essentially be the same power setup as the GBA.? This is how I connected the previous frontlight kits eons ago.? It worked well and it had no effect on the function of the MIDI port.? Maybe there is a better place to find a 5V supply.? There is probably a 5V regulator or something on the board to feed the MIDI out port.? If anyone knows where there is another 5V connection, I'm all ears.? I might need to increase the resistor value if it's too bright.? If I understand what Prea said correctly, I think the Host Selector switch should still work to turn the light on and off.? This is such a good idea.? Previously, I installed a little switch in the battery compartment.? The Host Selector switch is is so much cleaner.? I also installed a tiny dimmer but I never really used it, it was always at full blast.
Any thoughts?
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Hey guys,This past messages about the lamp remind me I forgot to write something I finished a month ago: the goose neck lamp for the QY100 that goes into the computer port. Just uploaded the photos to the group./g/YamahaQY70AndQY100/album?id=278477&p=Name
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Congratulations on your mod !
BTW, I would speculate that the inclusion of the 1k resistor is not so much about the voltage difference of the LED (though that certainly could be a factor if the voltage difference is large enough), but rather that LEDs have a VERY LOW impedance (aka internal resistance). ?The problem is without any resistor the LED will overheat and thus significantly shorten its lifespan¡ it might work great for a day, a week, or even a few months but then it will suddenly die¡ I mean it could last a long time, but that would definitely be the less likely outcome. ? However, you are right that 1k is probably a bit of overkill, so you could probably (very easily) get away with a 220 ohm resistor without any issue¡ or you could push the LED a bit harder with a 100 ohm resistor (though lifetime could be affected slightly at 100 ohms)). ?Anything less than 100 ohms is potentially rolling the dice. ?Of course, this is assuming there are no resistors built-in to the front-light itself.?
Cheers,?
Eric
--
¡°The longest journey starts with the first step." ?- Lao Tzu
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Thanks for the great info and pics!
I just did this mod myself on my QY100.?
I would say this is definitely worth doing.? The idea of using the Host Select switch to turn the frontlight on and off is brilliant.?
I did most of the work in the bathroom with the fan on after running the hot shower for a few minutes so the steam would help remove any dust. After putting it all together and turning the light on, there was no dust, but there was some sort of smudge on the frontlight panel which wasn't visible when it was turned off.? Clearly this was something that came from the manufacturer.? Fortunately it was on the back side of the panel so I didn't have to pry it off the double side tape.? I took it all apart and used a micro fiber cloth wrapped around a Q-tip to wipe it off.? I was successful in removing the smudge but somehow this introduced a LOT of dust between the front light and the QY100 clear plastic panel.? No amount of compressed air would remove it.? I'll live with it for now but I think I will have to go back in and try to deal with the dust.? I may have to get another kit, we'll see.
I would make one major suggestion to anyone wanting to do this.? Don't use the included 1 ohm resistor.? I find that it makes the light too dim.? Connecting the frontlight without the resistor gives much better results.? I don't know what voltage the LED is rated for but I highly doubt the added voltage will be enough to do any harm.? Also, I don't know what the voltage is on the GBA that this kit connects to.? It might be significantly more than 3.3V, hence the resistor.?
FYI, I modded two QY100's about 20 years ago with the original Triton Labs kit.? The results were good but it was a little more difficult to install.? The real trick was the polarizing film.? You had to add a layer of this film to the QY100 display to hide the reflections caused by the light panel.? It was REALLY hard to do this without getting dust underneath the film.? I was working at a place that had a clean room so I did it there.? I couldn't imagine trying that at home. ? Also, I think those kits were around $30-40 back then.? These new kits generally look as good, are much cheaper and much easier to install.?
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Gotta send Roland a cease and desist... no one infringes on my patented "powers of 2" email repetition technique without consequences!
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Consider yourself lucky: I only got 2 from Roland advertising their piano App
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On Aug 5, 2022, at 3:46 PM, QYedit via groups.io <domgoold@...> wrote:
?just got 4 identical emails from Roland Global, if it's any consolation.
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Glad we resolved the multi email issue. I've never made a mistake.? Thanks for the time and instructions. I¡¯ll keep you posted. Gary
just got 4 identical emails from Roland Global, if it's any consolation.
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just got 4 identical emails from Roland Global, if it's any consolation.
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Thanks for the heads up, re: multiple emails.
I am exclusively using the web interface, which allows editing of posts. It's not clear that this also sends a new email with each edit. I'm assuming that's the cause here. Mea culpa. I'll avoid this "feature" in the future.
(FYI, the web interface does not inherently indicate the intended recipient of a message, either, so it took me a second to figure out this complaint might be directed at me.)
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Another subtle FX difference: Phaser 2 has a parameter for "LFO Phase Difference," which Phaser 1 lacks. Found that in the QY70 List Book, which seems to be as thorough as it is detailed.
Looks like absence of other caveats to other FX params in the docs indicates each numbered preset is the same algorithm under the hood. Was ambiguous to me before, but this makes sense now.
J
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prea
Eric