Mickey
I did find a spare mic cable from a FT7900 that worked.
--
Glen, WB4KTF, Austin, TX

I think what you want might be called reverse.
Pin 1 is the same color on both ends.
The 1st cable example you posted should work.

I ran into the same problem with many previous mobile installations with Yaesu radios, so I purchased the MEK-5 cable when I went to HRO to get my radio.
Turns out I had an extra 6-pin RJ-11 cable in a box from a previous installation. There are at least 4 other radios in my shack that utilize a 6-pin cable for either the control head, or the microphone.
So I winced when I took one of the older cables and cut a 3-foot end off. I installed a 6-pin RJ-11 on the other end, and after several tries got a shorter cable that I can use. Sure I could have bundled up 15 feet of extra cable and stuck it under the seat, but I learned my lesson this time and shortened up that cable. I haven't installed it yet (still have a bunch of cable wound up under the seat) so I am riding on borrowed time. In the past, the extra cable under the seat got caught in the sliding seat adjustment mechanism and was slice clean off. That time it was an 8-pin cable so it was easy to snag another ethernet cable to replace it.
The most difficult part for me was getting those tiny wires into the proper slots in the plug before crimping it. Fortunately I had the tools and the plugs to make my own cables. If you can find an appropriate 6P6C RJ-11 cable you are all set. But then again it is not impossible to make one yourself, I did it so it is definitely possible.

Please make sure of the cable you buy, and unless you mount your radio in the extreme back of your vehicle, you don't need 15 feet.

Micky K1XH

Hi
I have a new FTM-6000R and want to mount the Control Head and rig body remote from one another.? As it only came with the Control Head cable I must either purchase the Yaesu MEK-5 or a RJ12 6wire cable.? The Yaesu cable costs around $25-$30, while these 2 below are $5-$7 depending on the wiring.
Is the RJ12 wiring Straight thru or Reversed wiring?
Reverse:

or?
Straight:


Glen-WB4KTF

Hi all:

I spliced on a female DB-9 onto this alternate DirecTv cable that I had mentioned earlier, and I was able to enter programming mode with the Yaesu software.? I didn't actually do the programming just yet, since I need to assemble all my neighborhood frequencies, first.? I was able to download the factory programming that was already on the rig, though,? as I think it might have some of the baseline settings.? So, I think this confirmed full RS-232 communications.?

I cut the cable down to about a foot or so from the mini-DIN-10 end, and the color codes remained the same on that side of the factory splice.? If you want to duplicate this yourself please proceed with caution, as the last thing I would want would be for someone to damage their rig with instructions I provided.? One forum member reported some different pin outs than what I saw on my cable.? If everything works out, though, you should be able to substitute this homemade $7 substitute,?for what is normally a $50 Yaesu cable, (depending on whether or not you already had some of the rest of items needed in your junk parts box).

Here is the graphic that shows my connections:



Doug
NS4ZM

Below details of cable I purchased, ref pin out I got.

DIRECTV 10 PIN COMPONENT CABLE FOR H25, C31, C41, C51, C61, HR54 A/V DTV

This is direct tv OEM cable.

开云体育

More later Internet down hi

Jim:

I don't have a ready explanation for you on why you had continuity on the 1200 Baud lead but not the PKK/Squelch lead for your cable, which was the opposite for what I saw for the cable I got from Walmart.? Either cable would work for audio IN/OUT/PTT.

I finally decided the best way to make this cable work is to use phono plug to 3.5mm T/S mono adapters on each lead.? I payed about a buck a piece for a ten pack of those on Ebay.? Now I have to open the cable mid-stream and resplice everything to make the leads 'match up' and this will give me the three working 3.5mm mono leads for audio IN, OUT, and PTT.? Actually I think the cable that is provided is too long, anyway, so a little shortening won't hurt.

So far, I still only have about $17 invested, so I am willing to tinker a bit to make it work.

It's not so much the $30 price of the Yaesu cable that irks me but the gouging that most vendors carry out with the shipping charges.

Thanks for the update on the pin outs for your Amazon cable.

Doug
NS4ZM

I also purchased via amazon the cable mentioned, however I think got different pin outs then
previously described. "I could be wrong folks"

However here is what I found, I am also calling the ground of the phono plug a "ring"

Pin

1 blue tip
2 ring of red/black wire
3 tip of red black wire
4 ring blue wire
5 tip green wire
6 no connections and this I think needed for allstar which is what I want it for.
7 ring green wire
8 tip red/gray wire
9 ring white wire and ring of red green wire "both the ring of white wire and green wires shorted."
10 tip white wire

Cable I purchased has blue phono, white phono, green phono and two red phono one gray and one black for ident.

I also just used sharp knife to cut away the rubber so as to fit the socket and fits fine.

Now only need to find one of such wires for cos?needed allstar.

As pin 6 is pk Squech which could have been used for my need.

Micky:

I played around a little with my alternate data cable today, and I was able to get both VaraChat (part of VARA FM) and FlDigi to key the rig using a DB-9 serial, camera- shutter adapter that I had on hand.? Using serial RTS keying on the com port worked reliably when connected to the correct pins on the data jack, and both VARA and FLDigi support this, and both worked well for me today with this method.

I plan to buy another of those shutter controllers for my second rig.? They are marketed as shutter controllers but little does the seller know they make bang-up PTT controllers, too.

If you check Ebay for:? "Opto-Isolated Camera Shutter Controller 2.5mm to DB9/ USB Adapter for Canon DSLR"?you should find it easy enough.? Its marketed by Cables Online.? I think the only caveat I could give on this item, though, is that the USB DB-9 interface they provide is reported to have a Prolific chip, and I had long ago changed mine out for an FTDI based interface, instead.??

Having a separate but reliable PTT interface then gives me the chance to go ahead and experiment with different sound cards, independent of the PTT path.? Only downside is you will wind up using two USB ports this way, to interface with your computer.? ?I expect that after my experimenting is over that I will probably wind up with a MastersCommunications DRA-50, which I have my eye on.? People who use this particular sound card interface are reporting some pretty impressive data speeds with VARA FM Wide/9600.

Doug
NS4ZM

Wow! What an awesome find Doug.
All this time I thought the Advance Manual was just a color glossy brochure!
I am gonna have to scan that manual for more tidbits of info!

I have always been able to find the Technical Supplement for Yaesu radios, I sure hope someone finds it and posts the link here...

Micky K1XH

. . . somehow I managed to reply to post #26 on totally different topic thread, so I'll repost in the right spot:

Micky:

The graphic I sent through on the first post was a screenshot taken from page 22 of my PDF of the advance manual (see Doug Shepard's post #16), and then redrawn to show the component video cable connections, instead of the Yaesu CT-167.? The pin outs referenced on that graphic should be from the perspective of looking directly into the actual data jack of the rig.? When you are looking into the end of the plug, instead of the data jack, you kind of have to do some mental gymnastics to make sure you are referencing the right pin (not necessarily as easy as it sounds !).

Doug
NS4ZM

One thing I forgot to mention:

The FTM6K is supplied with a very sturdy quick-release bracket.

For a very nice, semi-permanent installation you can screw down the bracket, and then have the ability to remove the radio from the installation using the quick-release bracket. You of course need to manually disconnect the antenna and power...

But anyway, the quick release bracked is a very nice addition, and is built very well and tailored to the radio in a very clever fashion. I plan on using it under the seat in my 4Runner, as soon as I can get a chance to screw it down...

Micky K1XH

Doug:
With dummy loads you should be able to operate on your kitchen table just fine at 5 watts.
I have done this before, except with different radios. Granted I could dial them down as far as 1W, but running them at 5W yeilded the same result. (Yaesu FT-100D) This was back when PSK-31 ruled the digital modes. It will probably be down to how well your dummy loads radiate...

One thing that is noticeably absent from the Operating Manual is the pinout of this connector. Where did you find this information?

Micky K1XH

Micky:

I have been wanting to set up a tabletop arrangement where I can play with various weak signal modes from one VHF set to another for use on the low part of 2 meters (with dummy loads, of course), so I can become proficient in the software usage for every weak signal mode I was interested in.? I was hoping the FTM-6000R would go as low as 1 watt for that type of setup, but 5 watts is as low as it goes.? I purchased a second FTM-6000R, which just arrived today.? I really don't know if RFI/desensing will spoil this whole test setup, though, even with dummy loads attached, and with audio piped in and out by way of these alternate cables, but I guess I'll find out.? For $6.35 I was willing to take a chance! (double that, now - since I didn't want to 'splurge' on my first video cable order, and only ordered one, . . . so now I have to wait until the second one arrives).? If there are no major glitches when I set this up I want to experiment with various sound cards and PTT arrangements to see what works and what doesn't, and to see what different types of computer setups might glitch when working close to RF.??

I forgot to mention in my first post that there is no continuity between one shield wire to the next on this alternate cable.? Yes, the PIN #4 conductor is a true copper (not aluminum) shield wire, wrapped around the Green video center conductor, which is in in its own jacket (I cut off the phono plug to look), and it looks to be substantial enough copper, that it easily matches what you see in all the other center conductor wires for the rest of the cable.? The only common ground I could find on the cable was the audio ground found on? the stereo left/right leads, and I won't be using those.? I suspect the reason why our PIN #5 is vacant on this cable is because of this common audio ground.? With five leads they only needed to wire 9 conductors.? Every video lead had its own shield but the two audio leads shared a common ground.??

I didn't list the rest of the pin outs on my first post, but here they are:

PIN #7? ?Video Blue shield
PIN #8? ?White audio/Center
PIN #9? ?Common audio ground
PIN #10 Red audio/Center

Doug
NS4ZM

Considering Yaesu wants 30 bucks for the CT-167, this is a good find.
What is your intent for this cable? What do you need to interface it with?

This 10-pin connector is very difficult to find...

Micky K1XH

Howdy:

I haven't put this alternate data cable into service just yet, but I think it should work for my intended uses (audio In/Out/PTT).? I paid $6.35 for the cable on the Walmart online store, but the cable is available all over the place.? I did VOM the leads, as shown below, and it looks like the 1200 baud pinout (#5 on the FTM-6000R) is missing, so I guess we'll just have to go for the gusto and make it 9600 baud instead.? Works for me.

Doug
NS4ZM

I purchased my FTM-6000R yesterday from Ham Radio Outlet (HRO) in Salem, NH yesterday.

After a seeminly long ride home after a sunny day of shopping, I got to open the box up and check out the new radio. Before I had even fired it up, I took a screwdriver to the control head, and installed the BU-4 BlueTooth unit. The installation was very straightforward, the small circuit board plugs into a small 4mm connector, then the back of the control head is screwed back on.

I was quite surprised by the older t-style spade connector, and the 2-meter long power cable was another surprise. But connecting the radio up in the shack only required me to put a 12V Anderson style connector on a cable and plugging everything in. In a reversal to many of my other Yaesu radios, the control head is connected by an 8-pin modular cable, and the mic is a 6-pin. A longer control head cable is included, but I needed to purchase the MEK-5 mic extension kit. It turns out I diddn't need to purchase the mic extension, as I found an older no-longer-used 6-pin cable in a box filled with older unused Yaesu radio parts & cables. I plan on installing this radio in my Toyots 4Runner, to replace an older Yaesu FT-857D HF/VHF/UHF radio that needs an alignment, and I will need the longer extension cables.

Once I had the radio connected in the shack, I connected the SC-20 USB cable (another extra purchase...) and fired up the free ADMS programming software on my laptop. I prefer the FREE Yaesu software over the RT Systems app and cable, I am hoping that CHIRP will support this radio soon, and if so, the RT systems cable will probably not work, and in that case the Yaesu SC-20 probably will. It has been my past experience that CHIRP does not work with RT Systems stuff, and although I have several RT Systems software offerings, I choose to no longer support their proprietary offerrings.

My Win10 Pro system detected the proper drivers for the cable, and it was fairly easy to communicate with the radio once I selected the proper COM port in the software settings. You have to follow the proper sequence of selecting options and clicking buttons to get the program in and out of the radio, but the software functions are rather straightforward and easy to follow. The programming software is free on the Yaesu.com website, and if files are allowed here on the 开云体育 group I could include then here as well. The 2 main documents you need from that site are the Operating Manual (which is included with the radio for your country) and the ADMS software manual.?

I entered my list of frequencies into the software and programmed them into the radio. It will hold 999 memory frequencies, which it turns out, is far more than I need at the moment. I was easily able to split them up according to band and service, leaving room to add more as needed. I will still need to review the procedure to add memory channels and set the appropriate access tones by hand, as I may not have access to the radio to easily program by computer once the radio is installed out in the truck.

All that is left now is to review the programming, and find a suitable mounting spot for the control head in the 4Runner. This control head is considerably smaller then the one for the 857D, (about half the size) but the alpha channel lettering is twice the size, so it may be suitable to mount it farther away. I will detail the mobile installation in another post, as to not clump everything into one long post.

I am sorry for the long rambling paragraphs, I hope it was easy to follow, and I can answer any questions anyone might want to ask. Again I thank everyone for accepting me into tis group, and I hope I can continue to contribute in the future.

Micky K1XH

Micky congratulations to you.
Many of us will be happy for you.

As you know we are an extremely new group and we are growing. ?So please accept all the delays in replies.

Please update us, and share your journey of this wonderful new transceiver with us as we all wait for delivery of our own units.

screen captures ?
software comments?
your setup ?
etc and anything.

I should have my new FTM-6K tomorrow.
I already have the User Guide as well as the software.
Has anyone found the Technical Supplement (Service Manual) yet?

Micky K1XH

hey jim do you have a link for the best resource?