开云体育

Brought home this cute D9 yesterday. W&W's are somewhat rare to find in my area--this is only the fourth decent W&W that I've seen for sale locally in several years. The machine has some minor cosmetic issues but the mechanics were spinning within 5 minutes of the initial oiling, as expected. The seller purchased the machine 30 or 40 years ago basically to use the cabinet as a lamp stand. He was amazed that anyone would really want to sew on it.

My #9 (1889 or so) came to me with a treadle from which the pedal, the pitman, and the band wheel had all been removed. I used to wonder why, until I noticed the three clearly non-factory holes in the pillar, which were almost certainly added to mount a motor. When they added the motor, they likely stripped the irons at the same time. I guess that made sense, to a modern sewist in the 1920s or 30s. More recently I got a new treadle. (This is the one I asked about the other day, missing the drop leaf support arm.) It came with another #9, and when I installed mine in the treadle, I noticed a significant difference: the bobbin winder wheel on my original head sat to the left of the pivot arm, had a tire on it, and rode somewhat off-center on the hand wheel. The wheel on my "new" machine has no tire, sits to the right of the pivot arm, and, probably like all of your #9 machines, the wheel rides on the belt. My conclusion was that when they electrified, they also reversed the bobbin winder in the arm, since there was no longer a belt to drive it. Flipping it side to side let them drive it from the wheel. You can see the two bobbin winders in the first attached picture. I wanted to flip it back, but it's not at all obvious how one removes the bobbin winder from its pivoting arm, and it was a little scary finding out. I tried unscrewing it, by clamping the spindle in the jaws of my drill press, but that got me nowhere. So I decided it must be pressed on. I had a spare I could use from the "new" machine, so I resorted to a hammer. :-) I balanced the wheel on top of the (loose) jaws of my vise, with the spindle hanging down, and used a nail punch and a small hammer to hit the end of the axle. A few taps and I felt it give. It took me more time to find the axle after it fell on the cellar floor than it did to get it out. I cleaned all the pieces (for the first time in many many decades, I'm sure), flipped it around, set the wheel on a block of wood with a small clearance hole for the axle to come through a bit, and tapped it in the other way. So. If your bobbin winder points the wrong way, don't replace it. Just hit it with a hammer. (Carefully. :-) (Many Singer bobbin winders have similar construction. I'll certainly try this trick next time I need to clean one up.) paul =---------------------- paul fox, pgf@... (arlington, ma)

I recently got a Wheeler & Wilson treadle table with a drop leaf on the left end. It looks as if the support for the leaf should be a bar of some sort that slides out from a gap above the drawers just under the tabletop. When retracted, it may have extended all the way into the little cubby beside the bobbin area. Can anyone tell me what that support should look like, or be made of? Dimensions? From the opening that it retracted into, it looks like it had just a rectangular cross-section, perhaps 1" x 1/2" (from memory), lying on its side. Which makes me think it might not have been wood, but perhaps steel. paul =---------------------- paul fox, pgf@... (arlington, ma)

Hello! I was asked to do an introduction so here is mine. I recently purchased an early wheeler and Wilson. I was told it’s an 1872, and needs a bit of work to get it going. I joined this group to learn more about the machine and what parts I’m missing, and how to restore it. I’m excited to learn as much as possible!

Hello, all. I've been lurking here for a few months and have so appreciated your wealth of knowledge. I currently have a beautiful W&W 9 in a gorgeous cabinet, a D9 machine head that was rescued from a salvage bin, a working W9 in a Singer cabinet and four early No. 8's with two No. 8 bases. One of the W&W 8 bases is destined to become a conversation piece as it's missing the top and all of the drawers. The other base was professionally stripped of it's wood finish and is nearly pristine--I'm told that its chestnut wood. (I did not have the finish stripped...it arrived here in that condition.) This past weekend, I found a Singer badged cobbler on a Wheeler & Wilson industrial base. Am not finding much info here on W&W industrials. I'm also not finding much info on the so-called Singer cobbler machine head as it doesn't match anything that I find online. I'm thinking that it could be a re-badged W&W from Singer's acquisition...? I read not to post photos here so I just set up a shutterfly account to share photos and am hoping that I'm doing this correctly. Here's the link to my photos. https://link.shutterfly.com/OEST1C0FTjb Thank you all in advance for any information you can provide. Roxy

Hi There! I just brought home my first Wheeler & Wilson! Its a No.8 in a treadle base. The machine looks like it has not been abused (no scratches, glass foot still intact), but it was stored in a garage so it has some amount of rust. I'm pretty good at restoring 1930's Singers, etc. but I've never tackled anything this old before! I see that they recommended whale oil on these. Is there anything different about removing varnish left by whale oil from varnish left by petroleum oil? I'm going to assume there isn't unless someone here says different... I've got a few newbee questions: 1. Does anyone have a method to create working keys for the coffin top and the drawers? 2. Is the brightwork on these chrome, or nickel plate? 3. Where can one find an extra needle or three? 3a. Also, bobbins, same question... Nice to meet you all! --Sam Here's my girl: Previous owner seems to have assembled the base trestle upside down...

I found an old post on quiltingboard.com (https://www.quiltingboard.com/7058873-post17.html) talking about modifying the needle bar in order to accommodate 15x1 needles. I have been successful using Groz-Beckert DBX1 needles on my W&W D9 but it's kind of tedious to set the proper height and to have to align the needle manually (although using a vintage Kenmore needle threader helps). Since I recently managed to get a donor machine (W&W D9), I decided to give it a try. I am pleased to report that I was able to modify the needle bar to accommodate 15x1 needles. It was pretty easy and it works great. I tested with a variety of 15x1 needles (Schmetz, Organ, Singer) in different size (11,14 and 16) and also tried with the only 127x1 needle I have with no issue. I didn't try a DBX1 needle as it is even skinnier than the 127x1 and after dressing down the index screw to accommodate the larger diameter of the 15x1 a DBX1 wouldn't be held properly. I used a 2mm (5/64") drill bit on a drill press to enlarge the bore, making sure that I only drill enough so that the shorter 15x1 needle sits at the proper height. Since the 15x1 needle is slightly larger that 2mm, I used a cordless drill with the same drill bit to slightly remove some extra material. I finally grinded the little index screw on a sharpening stone, just enough so that the needle clamp assembly would fit on the needle bar. After reassembling, I checked the timing and it was perfect! On a side note, I noticed that the index screw of the original needle bar seems to be "welded". So I assume that not all D9 can be modified as easily.