Re: second part of the history of an early ww handcrank

#3763

I was wrong tonight, that I saw a black leather gasket. there is only the sign of the screw on the axis turned at force. It has, seems to me the shape of a little circular furrow in the metal
I can't see burrs, perhaps they are too little.? However it still doen't turn

Re: second part of the history of an early ww handcrank

#3762

good morning.? I forgot a question:? how to disassemble the glass foot.? that would be important for not having at least this thought ,? thank you.

?

Re: second part of the history of an early ww handcrank

#3761
Edited

Hi,Miller, thank you.? Now: you said I must rotate the bobbin case??clockwise?,if I could.? yes?
My green arrows was simply for showing which screws I had found.? they are two. the first, lower left in the first element, the second in center in the element called, I think, 'drum'? ? I saw that in the more later ww these screws in center are two.
in conclusion the screws to loosen or put away are 1+1 in the elder machine or 1+2 in the 'newer' one , am I right?? but it is the same
To-night I posted one photo only, so they are 18, now, all together. In the latest one,you can see a little hole (3,5mm,perhaps) into the center's screw seat,at bottom. I see something as a little hole, not well centered, into a sort of black leather gasket. A gasket for the screw. Am I right?
-i don't see burrs (I hope)
But the spindle with the hook doesn't move at all.
I put first, these days, singer oil, today Svitol, a sort of WD40? ?Svitol disappears immediately in the little center hole, as if there was something of espace
This the last updating about our friend ww handcrank. (Ah, it was a little hard to turn, when it arrived )? thank you another time,? arrivederci? ?Cristiana

Re: second part of the history of an early ww handcrank

#3760

Hi;

I am not sure if I am getting the new pictures or not. Are they in the same series as t your others, if not how are they listed?

IF in pictures #8 & #11 the little green arrows are supposed to b showing the direction of rotation, note they?are pointed the wrong way. The top of the hook & pulley as you sit facing the machine should turn away from you.?

Completely remove the two screws from the pulley & squirt a bit of penetrant in the bottoms of the holes. Be sure & not lose them as they will be hard to replace. Let sit a while & try twisting the hook while holding the pulley. You can also try tapping lightly a bit but be sure & not hit a delicate part. You are going to have to get that shaft to move inside the pulley before you can make corrections. Normally this is not a problem, but I highly suspect that somehow the machine was jammed while in operation & the momentum of the flywheel slipped the shaft while under screw tension. Possibly this raised a slight burr on the shaft, thus making it difficult to move.

1miller/TN

second part of the history of an early ww handcrank

#3759
Edited

hi, Miller and all!? ?I update my history with other peximum pictures and a page of the book of Urquhart for I can better understand.? now:
I could unscrew two screws the first in left part, the second in center of the... drum? I could put aside the old nice belt, but thre needle, when it goes down, meets a stumbling block, metallic. I don't know its name so I post a page of Urquhart with the numbers of the parts
I think, simply, it would be necessary that the bobbin case? go to left a pair of millimeters, but I don't know if I must push, pull, turn or only oil... don't want do harm
I'm going to post my pictures, and the numbers of mister Urquhart...thank you all

Re: WW to Singer Side Clamp adapter??

#3758

I have a Singer 9W which once belonged to Ray Sew Slow Waganka. Ray lived near Albany, NY. After he died, I brought several of his machines to Iowa.

??????????????????

The adapter is proprietary to this Singer 9W and will not fit on the needlebar of any of my W&W9s, D9s or Singer 9Ws. Anyone who has treadled this Singer 9W, sees the low shank presser foot and treadles so the hand wheel turns counter clockwise like a Singer.

?

It’s a lovely machine and treadles like silk in one of my Singer tailor style treadles.

-Phyllis in Iowa

Re: WW to Singer Side Clamp adapter??

#3757

interesting but I don't understand very well. it is possible to build some?working?

Re: WW to Singer Side Clamp adapter??

#3756

Note that the W&W/Singer adapters will not work on attachments that drive from the needle clamp as do most?darning feet, rufflers?

&, etc. The needle clamp is on the left side of the W&W's needlebar while it is on the right side on a Singer.

Miller/TN

Re: WW to Singer Side Clamp adapter??

#3755
Edited

yes. I too remember, more than five years ago, about this little bird,perhaps in treadle-on.He is surely here. I searched him in my mail, a chaotic one, but I can't yet find.? do you search an adapter? I would love to have one? ?ciao cristiana

Re: WW to Singer Side Clamp adapter

#3754

开云体育

I'd like to find the adapter also

Thanks

Belinda

Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone

WW to Singer Side Clamp adapter??

#3753

开云体育

A little bird in Washington state, told me that someone’s husband in this group is making and selling adapters that let you use Singer side-clamping feet on Wheeler & Wilson machines. I have both a W&W D-9 and an industrial 12W102 that I’d like to be able to do free-motion quilting on, but W&W never made a darning foot for their machines.

?

There is also an adapter that was patented in the 1950’s that does the same.? Would like to find one of those, if no one is making adapters now.

?

Thanks!

Becky

?

Re: second part of my history

#3752

thank you.
you must excuse my impatience, but the difficulties about distance and photos etc are mine, too, and even a linguistic difficulty,? you are very clear, but I'm italien, and I know, by phone and forums only a person in Italy able to a similar discussion.very far of my home.? obviously I can't find him...in Italy most people knows only singer. they think singer is italian because they change it with necchi, and ther was an important manifacture near Milan....don't talk about solder a little bit of cast iron.....very rare.? all is very different,here, tha in us
it is not different that most forum have an argument, interesting, and they , on the most beautiful, leave it in half...forever
after this machine is?disconcerting in its apparent simplicity, and I'm quite alone with the mind of mr Wilson
however tomorrow I will try with the screws.? I hope it works, with your help, so we will have another entire history for the group.? ?thank you? ? ?cristiana

Replacement brush

#3751

This is a late answer to an earlier post. A fellow member had asked how to replace a worn brush on an early curved needle machine. Remove the old brush and find a artist paint brush the closest in size you can find. Remove the wooden handle from the "tin" section also holding the bristles in. Next, squeeze the tin section in a vice or such to ensure the bristles are held in tight and then cut off any extra tin section you don't need with tin snips or hack saw making it close to the same size as the original one. Then you can trim the bristles with scissors to fit. Remember the ends of the bristles just touch the rotating hook and never press tightly against it. ?

Re: second part of my history

#3750

Hi'

Yes, that is the screws that need loosening. Keep in mind that s the machine is out of time the main shaft may have somehow been forcibly moved with the screws tight, which may have caused a burr on the shaft, making it difficult to now move. You will just have to work with it carefully & patiently.?

The position of the shaft controls only the hook. Once loosened the hook can be rotated 360° so timing can be set as needed. As to whether the hook can be shifted left depends on if there is clearance between the hook & the machine body, I cannot tell that from the picture. The thread is picked from the needle on the right side so it should be as close as it can be set without,?hitting, to the hook point which picks up the thread. From your question I am assuming the needle is hitting on the left side, which does indicate the hook needs to be shifted to the left.?

One other possibility is whether or not the needle is lined up properly with the needle hole. If the pair of cone point screws on which the needlebar rides in the rear have been tampered with & not properly reset the needle itself could be too far left, it should pretty well center in the hole in the plate. Once you get the hook shaft moving though you will be able to tell if it can be shifted left or not.

Sorry about not answering earlier, I have had a rough week & was not online from Sunday till yesterday with a lot of catching up to do. I was suffering a few side effects of my Chemo treatments.

Miller/TN

Re: second part of my history

#3749

Not many of us own the older curved needle machines, so fewer people
can answer you.  (I'd love to own a #3 machine someday!)  And, as you
know, fixing a problem from a distance, with only photos, is also
difficult.

paul

viavillecinque wrote:
 > no one answer to me, in my precedent thread 'two machines for
 > beginning mad' I had posted two new photos.  and three messagea.I
 > post the third photo.  I ask if these ar the screws to loosen for
 > tufning the hook not in time, and I ask if it is possible for the
 > axis? going to left a pair of millimeters, because the needle touch
 > always the metal.  somenne is disposed to discuss yhis argument?
 > 
 > 
 > 

=----------------------
paul fox, pgf@... (arlington, ma, where it's 29.7 degrees)

second part of my history

#3748

no one answer to me, in my precedent thread 'two machines for beginning mad' I had posted two new photos. and three messagea.I post the third photo. I ask if these ar the screws to loosen for tufning the hook not in time, and I ask if it is possible for the axis? going to left a pair of millimeters, because the needle touch always the metal. somenne is disposed to discuss yhis argument?

Re: Spool pin for W&W Industrial

#3747

开云体育

They are are available on eBay. ?If you want the seller I bought mine from send me a message. ?I am not sure what the term “tall” means. ?Do you have an overall length or picture you could reference to the seller?

Mary Freeman?

Show quoted text

On Jan 4, 2020, at 6:27 AM, Becky L <eapglass@...> wrote:

I have a W&W 12W102 long-arm tailoring machine that needs a tall spool pin. Any suggestions as to where I might find one?

Thanks!

Becky

?

Spool pin for W&W Industrial

#3746

开云体育

I have a W&W 12W102 long-arm tailoring machine that needs a tall spool pin. Any suggestions as to where I might find one?

Thanks!

Becky

?

Re: two machines for beginning mad

#3745

now I'm going to post another photo.? ? I lossened that screw,I tried to rotate the hook but the problem is that the needle goes to clash against a solid circular part, and it is too invisible in the common correct position.
the axis, as before can advance to right a pair of millimeters, but it should walk this two millimeters to left for turning free without clashing , or crashing. I tried to disassemble? the part that begin the brush, . the screw? goes away easy, but the round semisound part seems soldered, perhaps by sludge.? I am confused. what do you think?

Re: two machines for beginning mad

#3744

did you have good feasts??
here...... my Pollack & Schmidt made to-morning some stiches.? but now is belt that is a fabric one is loosen and the feed don't walk

now. I can see only this screw. with a green arrow (I posted a photo) is this the screw I must loosen to be able to rotate the hook?

another question: If I buy a leather belt for the P& S is good one wide an inch and thick? 2,5 mm?

another question, the third.? the foot of the ww, a glass foot is very solid.? How may I disassemble it for putting a metal one?

thrice thank you