Hi Diana;
The D-9 is a very good stitching machine. Is your D-9 a covered top version with the bandwheel out side the leg or the drop head with bandwheel inside the leg. No real difference in the stitching ability, just curious as to type. My D-9 treadle is the drop head variety. I was very fortunate in obtaining a hand crank version at a very reasonable cost which I use much more than the treadle.
Miller/TN

I do the same Judy. I only meant that if you should decide to walk away from the machine, or take your feet off for whatever the reason the treadle brake will prevent the treadle pedal from "falling" most of the time.?
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Anthony from N. California

it's interesting that you say to not keep your feet on the pedal when not sewing..... i have developed the habit of holding my feet on the pedal and, when the machine stops, holding my feet steady in that position, which also holds the machine needle in it's stopping position...
that seems to work on all my treadle machines although a bit diff on each.
judy in so cal
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Also if you accidently run a 9 class machine backwards, no injury will occur to the work, or the machine. The hook and feed are very well designed. In the worst case the cloth will not advance, and the stitch will not be made. No cloth on the machine will cause the thread to slip below the throat plate. Bunchs of thread caught below the plates can be easily removed by removing the plates, and gently pulling the thread out while turning the balance wheel back and forth until clear.?
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Anthony from N. California

Its only needed if you are new to the concept of the balance wheel spinning away from you. Most sewers are used to machines that spin towards you. It also helps keep the machine from turning when you stop if you dont keep your feet on the pedal. It does not alter the function of the sewing machine or treadle otherwise. No.9s and early D9s did not come with the treadle break on the stand. The machine will work without one, you just have to make a mental note to turn the handwheel towards you.

"Give the balance wheel a?push?instead of a pull."
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Anthony from N. California

So, I have a question. How necessary is that device to keep the wheel from going in the wrong direction? My 1939 Singer foot treadle does not have it neither does my new to me Weeler and Wilson 9W.

Betty
9W
Tacoma, WA

Carl, last fall I cleaned up, polished and re-shellacked a D-9. I thought I was going to use it for sewing but not having a device on the wheel to prevent it from going the wrong direction ended that dream. My WW D-9 had just a faint hint of what were decals, but enough to see the placement. I was able to download from this group photos of the correct decals and make them the correct size. I transferred some guidelines to the metal and used regular acrylic artist paints to copy the design. When dry, I sprayed on an acrylic clear coat. It was very tedious painting, but I was able to get it done. Frankly, after that exercise, I was quite satisfied with the decal look on just the front of the machine. In other words, enough was enough for me. So the back is plain black. I used a few colors and the main color was a "gold" acrylic paint that fools the eye. I will try to upload some photos. I don't know what other people have done in my situation but I thought painting on a copy of the decals was a great idea. Sincerely, Shar1

I was finally able to load a scan of Hertzberg's Plate VII to the photos section. ?It appears to depict the details of an early W&W no.1-4.

Well, I have gotten to the point in restoring the no.3 where I am preparing to re-apply the gold (yellow?) detailing on the frame parts. ?I have some questions I hope people may be able to answer. ?First, I have been studying photos of various example machines and it seems the detailing varies significantly between machines. ?Am I right on this? ?Does this indicate that the detailing was applied by hand via paintbrush, rather than by decals? ?Also, has anyone tried to duplicate the detailing? ?If so, are there any recommendations on the paint that should be used? ?Any and all advice would be appreciated. ?Thanks in advance. ?Carl

Thank you, Helen for your suggestions!.

Betty

Miller,?

Yes, I have that adjustment on the bobbin plate. Thank you for pointing that out! I noticed many machines for sale have the bobbin cover missing so I figured sewers found the cover frustrating. No, the link is not coming through, but I would like to see it. I want to make doll clothes like those in Martha Pullen's doll books. My now-adult girls modeled for her way back when. THAT ended when the toddler decided to do a cartwheel on stage modeling a priceless dress.

Betty

Hi Betty.

From the way you worded your question; "Is there an easy way to get the bobbin plate to slide out smoothly?" I assume you have had the plate out, just that it was not smooth. This is a matter of smoothing up the dovetail contacts which the plate slides in. You can first try just oiling with a good light oil or penetrant & sliding the plate in & out several times, This may well loosen it up as much as you need. If this doesn't work my next step would be to rub the contact areas with some oiled 4-O steel wool to knock off any high spots of rust etc. It is also noted that some W&W plates, though not all, have a tightness adjustment built in. This consists of a little slot cut near one edge of the plate. At one end of this slot a 90° cut is made out the side of the plate. To tighten the plate you place a screwdriver in the slot at the open end & twist it thus spreading this finger for a tighter fit. to loosen the fit you simply tap the finger back in a bit.
Yes I use some of my attachments, some more than others. if this link works here is a picture of a wall hanging I made & presented to the very nice lary who gave me her Grandmother's W&W treadle. This was my very first W&W machine, an 1892-95 #9, forerunner of the D-9. Main attachment used on this was the ruffler which was with the machine. The ribs in each quarter of the fan were done by marking the back side, then backing of the bobbin tension & sewing from back & bobbin stitching using pearl cotton.
Miller/TN

Yes, you are correct. I do have that last patent listed on the right side of the plate. Jon has contacted me and i have put in my order for needles and bobbin.

Is there an easy way to get the bobbin plate to slide out smoothly? Has anyone used the attachments?

Some day I would like to get a hand crank model for my daughter's Montessori school. I bet you enjoy that!

Thank You!

Betty Fitzsimmons

Hi Betty;
Sounds like you indeed have a D-9. It should however have a last patent date of Aug 3, 1892. If you note the patent dates on the right hand plate there is likely 7 dates listed. They read numerically from top to bottom in two columns. That 8/18/85 date would be the last (4th) date in the left hand column, when you step over to the right hand column there are only three dates which should end with the 8/3/92 date. This plate should also have a D-9 mark stamped into it. The D-9 machines were made by W&W beginning in 1895 through their sell out to Singer in 1905. Serial numbers seem to have started around 2,200,000 & go into the upper 2,900,000 ths or a total production of between 700,000 & 800,000. I would "Guesstimate" by serial number interpolation your machine would date to 1897/98. I have a rather early D-9 handcrank at SN 2,276,882 which I guess as probably an 1896.
The needles for these machine were originally known as a 9N1, but were later given the designation by Singer as a 127x1. If you are familiar with the Boye tubes, Tube #18 is the correct one for these machines. The needle does have a flat & is fully self setting. Unfortunately none of these are in current production so we are limited to old stock. A member here, Jon, who is also a dealer generally has some of these at competitive prices, perhaps he will contact you.
There is a substitute needle which some use that is proper length but has a small round shank. The smaller shank allows it to pass by the alignment feature for the flat. The two downsides are that first being a round shank the eye must be aligned, not a big deal. The 2nd is that due to the much smaller shank the needle in clamping is pushed away from the hook. This "Could" under some difficult conditions result in skipped stitches. A good number of people have tried this needle & reported no problems with it. I have not personally tried it so am only giving what I deem to be a possibility. Will have to look up the number for it. Have to run for now so will pick back up later.
Miller/TN

One thing that can be said absolutely with certainty about these lovely machines, is that the decals are FRAGILE. I have had several with reasonable decals, one or two with almost none.. If you breathe too hard near them they will come off. ?So, no rubbing, no solvents (kerosene is to unstick frozen machines, please don't), look after what you have, and Please, please do not paint it pink..

Helen Howes

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