Carl, last fall I cleaned up, polished and re-shellacked a D-9. I thought I was going to use it for sewing but not having a device on the wheel to prevent it from going the wrong direction ended that dream. My WW D-9 had just a faint hint of what were decals, but enough to see the placement. I was able to download from this group photos of the correct decals and make them the correct size. I transferred some guidelines to the metal and used regular acrylic artist paints to copy the design. When dry, I sprayed on an acrylic clear coat. It was very tedious painting, but I was able to get it done. Frankly, after that exercise, I was quite satisfied with the decal look on just the front of the machine. In other words, enough was enough for me. So the back is plain black. I used a few colors and the main color was a "gold" acrylic paint that fools the eye. I will try to upload some photos. I don't know what other people have done in my situation but I thought painting on a copy of the decals was a great idea. Sincerely, Shar1

I was finally able to load a scan of Hertzberg's Plate VII to the photos section. ?It appears to depict the details of an early W&W no.1-4.

Well, I have gotten to the point in restoring the no.3 where I am preparing to re-apply the gold (yellow?) detailing on the frame parts. ?I have some questions I hope people may be able to answer. ?First, I have been studying photos of various example machines and it seems the detailing varies significantly between machines. ?Am I right on this? ?Does this indicate that the detailing was applied by hand via paintbrush, rather than by decals? ?Also, has anyone tried to duplicate the detailing? ?If so, are there any recommendations on the paint that should be used? ?Any and all advice would be appreciated. ?Thanks in advance. ?Carl

Thank you, Helen for your suggestions!.

Betty

Miller,?

Yes, I have that adjustment on the bobbin plate. Thank you for pointing that out! I noticed many machines for sale have the bobbin cover missing so I figured sewers found the cover frustrating. No, the link is not coming through, but I would like to see it. I want to make doll clothes like those in Martha Pullen's doll books. My now-adult girls modeled for her way back when. THAT ended when the toddler decided to do a cartwheel on stage modeling a priceless dress.

Betty

Hi Betty.

From the way you worded your question; "Is there an easy way to get the bobbin plate to slide out smoothly?" I assume you have had the plate out, just that it was not smooth. This is a matter of smoothing up the dovetail contacts which the plate slides in. You can first try just oiling with a good light oil or penetrant & sliding the plate in & out several times, This may well loosen it up as much as you need. If this doesn't work my next step would be to rub the contact areas with some oiled 4-O steel wool to knock off any high spots of rust etc. It is also noted that some W&W plates, though not all, have a tightness adjustment built in. This consists of a little slot cut near one edge of the plate. At one end of this slot a 90° cut is made out the side of the plate. To tighten the plate you place a screwdriver in the slot at the open end & twist it thus spreading this finger for a tighter fit. to loosen the fit you simply tap the finger back in a bit.
Yes I use some of my attachments, some more than others. if this link works here is a picture of a wall hanging I made & presented to the very nice lary who gave me her Grandmother's W&W treadle. This was my very first W&W machine, an 1892-95 #9, forerunner of the D-9. Main attachment used on this was the ruffler which was with the machine. The ribs in each quarter of the fan were done by marking the back side, then backing of the bobbin tension & sewing from back & bobbin stitching using pearl cotton.
Miller/TN

Yes, you are correct. I do have that last patent listed on the right side of the plate. Jon has contacted me and i have put in my order for needles and bobbin.

Is there an easy way to get the bobbin plate to slide out smoothly? Has anyone used the attachments?

Some day I would like to get a hand crank model for my daughter's Montessori school. I bet you enjoy that!

Thank You!

Betty Fitzsimmons

Hi Betty;
Sounds like you indeed have a D-9. It should however have a last patent date of Aug 3, 1892. If you note the patent dates on the right hand plate there is likely 7 dates listed. They read numerically from top to bottom in two columns. That 8/18/85 date would be the last (4th) date in the left hand column, when you step over to the right hand column there are only three dates which should end with the 8/3/92 date. This plate should also have a D-9 mark stamped into it. The D-9 machines were made by W&W beginning in 1895 through their sell out to Singer in 1905. Serial numbers seem to have started around 2,200,000 & go into the upper 2,900,000 ths or a total production of between 700,000 & 800,000. I would "Guesstimate" by serial number interpolation your machine would date to 1897/98. I have a rather early D-9 handcrank at SN 2,276,882 which I guess as probably an 1896.
The needles for these machine were originally known as a 9N1, but were later given the designation by Singer as a 127x1. If you are familiar with the Boye tubes, Tube #18 is the correct one for these machines. The needle does have a flat & is fully self setting. Unfortunately none of these are in current production so we are limited to old stock. A member here, Jon, who is also a dealer generally has some of these at competitive prices, perhaps he will contact you.
There is a substitute needle which some use that is proper length but has a small round shank. The smaller shank allows it to pass by the alignment feature for the flat. The two downsides are that first being a round shank the eye must be aligned, not a big deal. The 2nd is that due to the much smaller shank the needle in clamping is pushed away from the hook. This "Could" under some difficult conditions result in skipped stitches. A good number of people have tried this needle & reported no problems with it. I have not personally tried it so am only giving what I deem to be a possibility. Will have to look up the number for it. Have to run for now so will pick back up later.
Miller/TN

One thing that can be said absolutely with certainty about these lovely machines, is that the decals are FRAGILE. I have had several with reasonable decals, one or two with almost none.. If you breathe too hard near them they will come off. ?So, no rubbing, no solvents (kerosene is to unstick frozen machines, please don't), look after what you have, and Please, please do not paint it pink..

Helen Howes

开云体育

Hello, All!

A good friend gave me her aunt's treadle Wheeler and Wilson that originally reigned on a sheep ranch in Oregon for several years. It has the serial number of 2341945 and the last patent on it is 8/18/1885.? There is an S in the middle of the WW's so I wonder if it is a nod to Singer. It has the coffin top. This machine runs well now that I added a belt. I have rubbed sewing machine oil on it. What is a best way to get rust off the plate? Way back when, people used to soak machines in kerosene to clean them up.? Would that be appropriate for this machine?

Can I brighten up the gold lettering? Since this machine's cabinet has spent the last several years holding potted plants as a living room decorative, how do I refinish the water rings left on the top board and the splinters on the edges?

How hard is it to get needles? Can these needles be sharpened?? Has anyone considered creating them via a company like Shapeways that mades 3D copies of designs sent to them?

?I have another treadle machine, a 1910 Singer Cabinet model I have had for several years.? I am looking forward to exploring how this Wheeler and Wilson compares to it. Ironically, my dad threw away the two treadle machines at the house when he became in charge, saying that nobody would be interested in them now that electricity had come to the farm.

Thank you for creating this group and letting me join.?

Betty Fitzsimmons

I finally posted the image of the lid support in my album in the photos section. A family emergency prevented me from doing it sooner. There is another album 'W&W Parlor Cabinet' on page 8 that shows the door and lid support complete and in position. I ordered screws online that I believe are correct, or at least close enough. If the screw is the right fit, all I need to find is a piece of oak to make the new support out of.?
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Anthony from N. California

there are a number of companies that make reproductions, posted online..
one is:

judy in so cal
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Brilliant Trick Melts Belly Fat Overnight (Do This Tonight)
Celebrity Local

Hi Group,
I am looking into making a new lower support/stopper for the door of my cabinet. The original was removed for some reason, leaving the weight of the lid and door on the hinges. Luckily the lid support at top is still intact, so I have a similar original to go by when recreating the missing one. My biggest issue is finding the correct type of screw. If anyone should happen to have a spare cabinet screw the right size that they would be willing to sell or trade I would greatly appreciate it.

I am going to remove the screw for the top support to measure and take pictures tonight. Thank you in advance to anyone who can help me.
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Anthony from N. California

Hi Miller,
I wish we had more information on Mr.Dial while he worked with/for W&W and after Singer took over. When did singers oscillating hook (singer66) come out? It would be interesting if W&W used "vertical hook" in their advertisements when Singer used "Oscillating hook". I have yet to find any documentation in regards to the price of the extra attachments and attachment box. I saw a listing once for a D9 that had the extra attachments and a $5 W&W receipt in the box. Maybe it was for the attachment set, or just a hire purchase plan. It didnt have any details filled in beyond the price.

Does anyone know the original price for singers 27, 66? It would be nice to compare Singers prices and that of W&W.
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Anthony from N. California

Hi Anthony;
Thanks for the price listing, interesting.
I am not truly sure if W&W ever listed these machines as a D-9 in their catalogs, manuals, advertising & etc. They did mark the right slide plate with the D-9 mark, along with a last patent of Aug 2, 1892. The D would seem to be for a designer for W&W named Wilbur F Dial. There are some industrial models with a D in their model No & all appear to have some improved feature patented by Mr Dial. The major factor on the D-9 was the new bobbin arrangement with the built in case & latch finger, rather than the older bobbin Drop with removable case. This bobbin arrangement had been first used on the #11. The #11 had not previously existed & does not carry the D designation. It seems that only existing models which had received some significant improvement patented my Mr Dial had the D applied.
Miller/TN