On Nov 5, 2022, at 8:26 PM, ADHDOOM < adhdoom@...> wrote:
Hi peeps,
Got a couple of quick questions/requests that I'm hoping someone on here has the technical knowledge/effort to spare to answer for me:
Firstly does the throttle sensor adjust the timing when the bike is in use or is it just there to facilitate the function of the kickstand safety feature? I know that when the kickstand is still down and you drive to rev it kills the power so obviously the throttle sensor is involved in this feature but does it actually do anything else? If the kickstand safety feature was removed along with any associated elements could the throttle sensor then also be removed? I've played round with bikes that have CDI ignition systems like this before and none of the earlier bikes I've messed with have had or needed a throttle sensor so I am curious to know if the kickstand safety kill is all that it is there for.
Secondly would someone be able to post me a pic of the underside of the carbs? I had my float bowls off and was about to start putting them back on and have found a fifth slightly longer screw that I am not sure actually came off of the carb or is simply one that was left on my bench when I started.
I didn’t think the throttle sensor was part of the “kickstand safety feature” at all (neutral switch and clutch switch, yes). ? Happy to stand corrected on that, though.
I never know if my replies with attachments are going to work… these pics help? ?According to my parts manual, all eight float bowl screws are the same size, but maybe one or more are longer? ?Perhaps where the idle adjuster knob bracket attaches? ?It’s been so long since I’ve had my carbs off, I can’t remember.
Hey, that right-side bowl looks like it might be cracked? It isn’t, though...
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I run a custom made 2 into 2 exhaust with 1.5” pipes and straight through baffles which is probably a little too free flowing. I’ve had to up the jet size plenty. Was running 38 pilot’s but have just ordered 40’s which should be spot on hopefully and cut the popping down on deceleration down to an angry crackle. Put in a pair of Dynojet needles and springs from their stage one kit as well so I can tweak the midrange easier. If you wanna use the standard needles I’d recommend putting a couple of washers under the longer one if you haven’t already noticed ones longer than the other. Had made my way up to 132’s on the main jets but they’re still way to small so have ordered 140, 145, and 148’s. Will post pics of the setup and where I end up with the tuning once I’m done.?
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On 6/11/2022, at 8:36 PM, Peter Wainwright <pete.wainwright.nz@...> wrote:
? Yes please ADHOOM?post pics of the inserts. I have pods on my W and have drawn a child's cotton sock over the pods, sprayed with light can oil to improve filtering. You may have to shim the carb needle and put in a slightly larger pilot and main jet in each carb. I have Posh aftermarket exhausts and pods, and the carb had to be enriched due to the more effortless flow, which leaned the standard carb mix. Den s?n. 6. nov. 2022 kl. 13.26 skrev ADHDOOM < adhdoom@...>: Hi peeps,
Got a couple of quick questions/requests that I'm hoping someone on here has the technical knowledge/effort to spare to answer for me:
Firstly does the throttle sensor adjust the timing when the bike is in use or is it just there to facilitate the function of the kickstand safety feature? I know that when the kickstand is still down and you drive to rev it kills the power so obviously the throttle sensor is involved in this feature but does it actually do anything else? If the kickstand safety feature was removed along with any associated elements could the throttle sensor then also be removed? I've played round with bikes that have CDI ignition systems like this before and none of the earlier bikes I've messed with have had or needed a throttle sensor so I am curious to know if the kickstand safety kill is all that it is there for.
Secondly would someone be able to post me a pic of the underside of the carbs? I had my float bowls off and was about to start putting them back on and have found a fifth slightly longer screw that I am not sure actually came off of the carb or is simply one that was left on my bench when I started.
Also I am in the process of fitting pod filters to the standard CV carbs and am trying a custom trick of making some short aluminum tube inserts to sit inside the pod filter that reduce ever so slightly to create a restriction and therefore maintain the constant velocity required to keep these carbs working as they should. If anyone's interested I'll post up pics of my custom inserts and of the results of how it runs etc... and before anyone says why am I putting pod filters on and to just leave the standard air box it's because I am going to start modifying the frame so there is no room for the standard airbox.
Thanks in advance!
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Yes please ADHOOM?post pics of the inserts. I have pods on my W and have drawn a child's cotton sock over the pods, sprayed with light can oil to improve filtering. You may have to shim the carb needle and put in a slightly larger pilot and main jet in each carb. I have Posh aftermarket exhausts and pods, and the carb had to be enriched due to the more effortless flow, which leaned the standard carb mix. Den s?n. 6. nov. 2022 kl. 13.26 skrev ADHDOOM < adhdoom@...>:
Hi peeps,
Got a couple of quick questions/requests that I'm hoping someone on here has the technical knowledge/effort to spare to answer for me:
Firstly does the throttle sensor adjust the timing when the bike is in use or is it just there to facilitate the function of the kickstand safety feature? I know that when the kickstand is still down and you drive to rev it kills the power so obviously the throttle sensor is involved in this feature but does it actually do anything else? If the kickstand safety feature was removed along with any associated elements could the throttle sensor then also be removed? I've played round with bikes that have CDI ignition systems like this before and none of the earlier bikes I've messed with have had or needed a throttle sensor so I am curious to know if the kickstand safety kill is all that it is there for.
Secondly would someone be able to post me a pic of the underside of the carbs? I had my float bowls off and was about to start putting them back on and have found a fifth slightly longer screw that I am not sure actually came off of the carb or is simply one that was left on my bench when I started.
Also I am in the process of fitting pod filters to the standard CV carbs and am trying a custom trick of making some short aluminum tube inserts to sit inside the pod filter that reduce ever so slightly to create a restriction and therefore maintain the constant velocity required to keep these carbs working as they should. If anyone's interested I'll post up pics of my custom inserts and of the results of how it runs etc... and before anyone says why am I putting pod filters on and to just leave the standard air box it's because I am going to start modifying the frame so there is no room for the standard airbox.
Thanks in advance!
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Sorry?to hear that Cory - spark is where I'd start - particularly to see if the coils are getting power. Before I said farewell to mine, it developed?a nasty chafe on the main wiring harness just behind the headlight. You'd want to pull the gas tank to inspect.
Several wires were without?insulation and shorting to the frame. Fortunately, no damage was done and we had merely to carefully tape the wires and we were good to go.?
=S
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Hi peeps,
Got a couple of quick questions/requests that I'm hoping someone on here has the technical knowledge/effort to spare to answer for me:
Firstly does the throttle sensor adjust the timing when the bike is in use or is it just there to facilitate the function of the kickstand safety feature? I know that when the kickstand is still down and you drive to rev it kills the power so obviously the throttle sensor is involved in this feature but does it actually do anything else? If the kickstand safety feature was removed along with any associated elements could the throttle sensor then also be removed? I've played round with bikes that have CDI ignition systems like this before and none of the earlier bikes I've messed with have had or needed a throttle sensor so I am curious to know if the kickstand safety kill is all that it is there for.
Secondly would someone be able to post me a pic of the underside of the carbs? I had my float bowls off and was about to start putting them back on and have found a fifth slightly longer screw that I am not sure actually came off of the carb or is simply one that was left on my bench when I started.
Also I am in the process of fitting pod filters to the standard CV carbs and am trying a custom trick of making some short aluminum tube inserts to sit inside the pod filter that reduce ever so slightly to create a restriction and therefore maintain the constant velocity required to keep these carbs working as they should. If anyone's interested I'll post up pics of my custom inserts and of the results of how it runs etc... and before anyone says why am I putting pod filters on and to just leave the standard air box it's because I am going to start modifying the frame so there is no room for the standard airbox.
Thanks in advance!
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Little help please. Bike ran great, strong, made a noise and stalled. Won’t start with kick or electric. Seems to make a noise ?at the valve cover. Haven’t checked for spark yet. It seems like it happened when it blew a rear turn signal bulb. Don’t know if it was a coincidence. Any ideas??? Thanks?
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Have you checked to see if your air filter needs cleaning? John H. in Omaha
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On Nov 2, 2022, at 2:43 PM, drewwils via groups.io <drewwils@...> wrote:
?Not sure I've posted about this but my right carb has loads of buildup. Didn't have this problem on my last W and it's only the right carb. Hope I've not got ring blowby or something like that. 
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John H. in Omaha
2000 W650
2006 Vino 125
1981 CT110 “The Goin’ Postie Bike!”
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Not sure I've posted about this but my right carb has loads of buildup. Didn't have this problem on my last W and it's only the right carb. Hope I've not got ring blowby or something like that. 
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Fw: Your memories from this day
James Franklin
904 762-8384 (cell)
?
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From: OneDrive <photos@...>
Sent: Saturday, October 29, 2022 5:52 PM
To: jimw650@... <jimw650@...>
Subject: Your memories from this day
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On this day
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October 29
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Look back at your memories from this day.
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Your privacy matters
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No human saw your photos, and no additional storage was used when this collection was created.
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TheGoinPostieBike <nebraska650@...> added the album John H.in Omaha’s Dubya’: 2000 W650 with Omega Racer Comfort Seat and Asahi No. 99 Mini Windscreen.
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Re: Replacement turn signal options
chupaW650 sold me the two blinkers He mentioned.? He is a stand up, honest individual. I enjoyed the process of working with him.? I would trust him again in the future.
Thanks C !
Dadrider
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? great thanks! Regards,
Ian Booth
07899 628837
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On 12 Oct 2022, at 16:19, Tom Herling <thomasjherling@...> wrote:
?The original listing from which I bought it on Ebay doesn't have any more but there?are a number of others selling ?this item.?
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The original listing from which I bought it on Ebay doesn't have any more but there?are a number of others selling ?this item.?
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You have a link for this please? I can't see anything which has the adhesive on it anywhere....cheers
On Tuesday, 11 October 2022, 20:20:55 BST, Tom Herling <thomasjherling@...> wrote:
I've never particularly liked the look of the tank's crimped edge seam, but I found a way to improve it. I got some 1/4" chrome plastic trim material, the kind used for car door edges. It's self-adhesive and pliable enough to fit around the curves at the front and rear of the tank. A heat gun can soften that up to make it easier and it also melts the adhesive so that when it cools it makes a stronger bond. Prior to fitting it, I used some Griot's Paint Prep Cleaner to remove any old dirt and wax that would interfere with the bond.?  The stuff is a u-shape. I used a putty knife to open it at the end and then it just went on easily over the seam. The size is such that it makes an almost seamless transition to the tank metal.?   With the aid of a heat gun and a hobby knife, I managed to get it all the way to the tongue that sticks out of the rear of the tank. That will be hidden once the seat is installed.?  One final touch was to add a coat of wax over the edge of the seam to prevent moisture getting inside and causing rust. I've seen that often on ugly chrome wheel well covers.? I think it's a subtle but effective addition to the tank. It works especially well with the silver, though I'm not sure how it might look on the other colors.?
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On Oct 11, 2022, at 12:20 PM, Tom Herling <thomasjherling@...> wrote:
?I've never particularly liked the look of the tank's crimped edge seam, but I found a way to improve it. I got some 1/4" chrome plastic trim material, the kind used for car door edges. It's self-adhesive and pliable enough to fit around the curves at the front and rear of the tank. A heat gun can soften that up to make it easier and it also melts the adhesive so that when it cools it makes a stronger bond. Prior to fitting it, I used some Griot's Paint Prep Cleaner to remove any old dirt and wax that would interfere with the bond.?  The stuff is a u-shape. I used a putty knife to open it at the end and then it just went on easily over the seam. The size is such that it makes an almost seamless transition to the tank metal.?   With the aid of a heat gun and a hobby knife, I managed to get it all the way to the tongue that sticks out of the rear of the tank. That will be hidden once the seat is installed.?  One final touch was to add a coat of wax over the edge of the seam to prevent moisture getting inside and causing rust. I've seen that often on ugly chrome wheel well covers.? I think it's a subtle but effective addition to the tank. It works especially well with the silver, though I'm not sure how it might look on the other colors.?
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I've never particularly liked the look of the tank's crimped edge seam, but I found a way to improve it. I got some 1/4" chrome plastic trim material, the kind used for car door edges. It's self-adhesive and pliable enough to fit around the curves at the front and rear of the tank. A heat gun can soften that up to make it easier and it also melts the adhesive so that when it cools it makes a stronger bond. Prior to fitting it, I used some Griot's Paint Prep Cleaner to remove any old dirt and wax that would interfere with the bond.?  The stuff is a u-shape. I used a putty knife to open it at the end and then it just went on easily over the seam. The size is such that it makes an almost seamless transition to the tank metal.?   With the aid of a heat gun and a hobby knife, I managed to get it all the way to the tongue that sticks out of the rear of the tank. That will be hidden once the seat is installed.?  One final touch was to add a coat of wax over the edge of the seam to prevent moisture getting inside and causing rust. I've seen that often on ugly chrome wheel well covers.? I think it's a subtle but effective addition to the tank. It works especially well with the silver, though I'm not sure how it might look on the other colors.?
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Re: Replacement turn signal options
I also have a relay for the horns. I replaced the single feeble horn with two that are louder back when I lived in the east where people in giant SUVs were more numerous. Those skinny wires that run from the fuse box, to the horn switch and to the horns likely don't carry as much current. Probably not as big a problem as my convertible, which has the battery all the way back in the trunk, but every little bit helps. There's a file in this site's Files section where there are instructions on how to wire up relays. /g/W650Riders/files/Relays.doc
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Re: Replacement turn signal options
Replaced on my W with the same, the bike looks better., they are similar as what was on my T500 back in the 70s
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It's been many years but I think I may have changed my turn signals to ones like these because a windshield was easier to fit around them in the front. I changed the rear to the same to make a better match.?I got this set off Ebay for about $25. Look for "Lucas style turn signals." There are numerous listings for these at varying prices but they all look like they come from the same factory in China.
If you want to retain the two filament bulb setup with the running lights you can swap the bulb holder/contacts from your existing stock set.?
I sold the original front signals so these only have the single filament bulb but I've got a brighter pair of auxiliary lights mounted on the engine guard.?I've got them running off a relay triggered by the original running light circuit so that the power to the bulbs comes straight from the battery on a heavier gauge wire. I have a switch for the relay so I can turn the aux lights off so they don't run the battery down if I'm doing maintenance or something.
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Re: Replacement turn signal options
It's been many years but I think I may have changed my turn signals to ones like these because a windshield was easier to fit around them in the front. I changed the rear to the same to make a better match.?I got this set off Ebay for about $25. Look for "Lucas style turn signals." There are numerous listings for these at varying prices but they all look like they come from the same factory in China.
If you want to retain the two filament bulb setup with the running lights you can swap the bulb holder/contacts from your existing stock set.?
I sold the original front signals so these only have the single filament bulb but I've got a brighter pair of auxiliary lights mounted on the engine guard.?I've got them running off a relay triggered by the original running light circuit so that the power to the bulbs comes straight from the battery on a heavier gauge wire. I have a switch for the relay so I can turn the aux lights off so they don't run the battery down if I'm doing maintenance or something.
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Re: Replacement turn signal options
I ordered 4 from ebay that came from the UK and in appearance they look exactly like OEM blinkers.? The only exception is that these blinkers only have two wires which is fine for the rear but when installed as front blinkers, they are lacking the third wire for daytime running lights.? I ordered the OEM front ones because I do ride at night and want the front blinkers to be lit up at night.? If you'd like to buy my two front blinkers with just two wires, message me directly.? They are brand new and were just installed a couple weeks ago.? I am located in the US.? Thanks!
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2000 W650
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Tom Herling
Ruari McLennan
chupaW650