The position of that black stuff leads me to believe it's the crankcase breather vent that feed the front of the air box that is the source.? You can always remove the hose, block the air box hole and put a filter like this on the crankcase breather vent. 
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Has anyone suggested that you check the right muffler connection
to the cylinder head. You may find that a new gasket and correct
fitting (often incorrect fitting of split shims) may solve the
soot problem.
Keith
On 12/11/2022 02:47, drewwils via
groups.io wrote:
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Have opened it several times - not a drop ever comes out.
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Have opened it several times - not a drop ever comes out.
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Correct, but if you suddenly have a defective battery in the middle of a ride ( twice this has occurred, once on the W and once on an SR500, however on the Yam, it was no problem as all?is manual ) the W will run erratically under certain load and revs due to the drain from the headlight low beam. Also, should the battery be ok but low on charge, it will fill quicker with an off front light. Den tor. 10. nov. 2022 kl. 18.44 skrev John Whit < whitj@...>:
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Good idea for most bikes Peter but on the W neither headlight beams are used during the cranking process. They only come on once the the bike is started..
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Good idea for most bikes Peter but on the W neither headlight beams are used during the cranking process. They only come on once the the bike is started..
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Empty out the blowby spooge collector tube that comes out of the bottom of the air box.? You probably have a bunch of liquid hanging around the bottom of your air box.??
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Cheers for the advice, I have a copy of the manual and couldn't find the ignition barrel in there at all.
Problem I have is it spins in the barrel but does nothing. Meanwhile the Steering Lock remains on wherever the key is positioned. It?does click in when I turn it and then?it becomes much harder to move it again.
As soon as its "free" the cylinder rotates but does nothing?
Detached?from the sensors at the bottom maybe. Hard to diagnose without it being in the manual.
Thanks again Ding
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On Tue, 8 Nov 2022 at 14:03, ADHDOOM < adhdoom@...> wrote: Hi Ding,
I think I found the same thing when I originally looked at removing my key barrel as well now that I think about it. The screws at the bottom were some sort of security ones. I just uploaded a pdf copy of the service and repair manual to dropbox:
You might be able to find something in there helpful. I would try some wd40 or some silicon spray and also spray it down the key barrel as well. It's ammazing how easily a key turns when lubricated well. I thought my front door key was fornicated till I was advised to spray some silicon in to it.
Lemme know how you get on.
Thanks for replying, there is of course no info on how to remove the ignition barrel in the manual. - Stopping thieves I guess. Looks like the screws are one use snap off underneath the barrel too - may look to see if I can grease the pin in situ??
On Mon, 7 Nov 2022 at 22:37, ADHDOOM < adhdoom@...> wrote: Hi Ding,
Off the top of my head I think the key pushes out a pin to lock the steering so the key might be moving back and forward but the pin is stuck and therefore not returning. You might find once you remove the barrel assembly it just needs a little jiggle and some lube… though personally I’ve been considering removing the barrel and hiding a kill switch too.?
I’m not a fan of the overly large dash and want to cut back to just a single small Speedo which I think would look nice nested where the key currently resides. Just grind the loop off of the top tree and you’ve got a nice little half round recess.?
Had the aluminium tube arrive today and should hopefully be taking it to my friends workshop tomorrow to cut it to size. Will post pics once I’m done.?
? Would be very keen to hear how your Pod filters are going - cant help with the throttle sensor though I am afraid.
Had a weird?issue with the ignition barrel though. Key turns, but does nothing and the steering lock is now on permanently!. Thinking of removing the whole shebang and hiding a kill switch.
What do you reckon?
Cheers for your time.?
Ding. On Sun, 6 Nov 2022 at 13:26, ADHDOOM < adhdoom@...> wrote: Hi peeps,
Got a couple of quick questions/requests that I'm hoping someone on here has the technical knowledge/effort to spare to answer for me:
Firstly does the throttle sensor adjust the timing when the bike is in use or is it just there to facilitate the function of the kickstand safety feature? I know that when the kickstand is still down and you drive to rev it kills the power so obviously the throttle sensor is involved in this feature but does it actually do anything else? If the kickstand safety feature was removed along with any associated elements could the throttle sensor then also be removed? I've played round with bikes that have CDI ignition systems like this before and none of the earlier bikes I've messed with have had or needed a throttle sensor so I am curious to know if the kickstand safety kill is all that it is there for.
Secondly would someone be able to post me a pic of the underside of the carbs? I had my float bowls off and was about to start putting them back on and have found a fifth slightly longer screw that I am not sure actually came off of the carb or is simply one that was left on my bench when I started.
Also I am in the process of fitting pod filters to the standard CV carbs and am trying a custom trick of making some short aluminum tube inserts to sit inside the pod filter that reduce ever so slightly to create a restriction and therefore maintain the constant velocity required to keep these carbs working as they should. If anyone's interested I'll post up pics of my custom inserts and of the results of how it runs etc... and before anyone says why am I putting pod filters on and to just leave the standard air box it's because I am going to start modifying the frame so there is no room for the standard airbox.
Thanks in advance!
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Hi Ding,
I think I found the same thing when I originally looked at removing my key barrel as well now that I think about it. The screws at the bottom were some sort of security ones. I just uploaded a pdf copy of the service and repair manual to dropbox:
You might be able to find something in there helpful. I would try some wd40 or some silicon spray and also spray it down the key barrel as well. It's ammazing how easily a key turns when lubricated well. I thought my front door key was fornicated till I was advised to spray some silicon in to it.
Lemme know how you get on.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Thanks for replying, there is of course no info on how to remove the ignition barrel in the manual. - Stopping thieves I guess. Looks like the screws are one use snap off underneath the barrel too - may look to see if I can grease the pin in situ??
On Mon, 7 Nov 2022 at 22:37, ADHDOOM < adhdoom@...> wrote: Hi Ding,
Off the top of my head I think the key pushes out a pin to lock the steering so the key might be moving back and forward but the pin is stuck and therefore not returning. You might find once you remove the barrel assembly it just needs a little jiggle and some lube… though personally I’ve been considering removing the barrel and hiding a kill switch too.?
I’m not a fan of the overly large dash and want to cut back to just a single small Speedo which I think would look nice nested where the key currently resides. Just grind the loop off of the top tree and you’ve got a nice little half round recess.?
Had the aluminium tube arrive today and should hopefully be taking it to my friends workshop tomorrow to cut it to size. Will post pics once I’m done.?
? Would be very keen to hear how your Pod filters are going - cant help with the throttle sensor though I am afraid.
Had a weird?issue with the ignition barrel though. Key turns, but does nothing and the steering lock is now on permanently!. Thinking of removing the whole shebang and hiding a kill switch.
What do you reckon?
Cheers for your time.?
Ding. On Sun, 6 Nov 2022 at 13:26, ADHDOOM < adhdoom@...> wrote: Hi peeps,
Got a couple of quick questions/requests that I'm hoping someone on here has the technical knowledge/effort to spare to answer for me:
Firstly does the throttle sensor adjust the timing when the bike is in use or is it just there to facilitate the function of the kickstand safety feature? I know that when the kickstand is still down and you drive to rev it kills the power so obviously the throttle sensor is involved in this feature but does it actually do anything else? If the kickstand safety feature was removed along with any associated elements could the throttle sensor then also be removed? I've played round with bikes that have CDI ignition systems like this before and none of the earlier bikes I've messed with have had or needed a throttle sensor so I am curious to know if the kickstand safety kill is all that it is there for.
Secondly would someone be able to post me a pic of the underside of the carbs? I had my float bowls off and was about to start putting them back on and have found a fifth slightly longer screw that I am not sure actually came off of the carb or is simply one that was left on my bench when I started.
Also I am in the process of fitting pod filters to the standard CV carbs and am trying a custom trick of making some short aluminum tube inserts to sit inside the pod filter that reduce ever so slightly to create a restriction and therefore maintain the constant velocity required to keep these carbs working as they should. If anyone's interested I'll post up pics of my custom inserts and of the results of how it runs etc... and before anyone says why am I putting pod filters on and to just leave the standard air box it's because I am going to start modifying the frame so there is no room for the standard airbox.
Thanks in advance!
|
Thanks for replying, there is of course no info on how to remove the ignition barrel in the manual. - Stopping thieves I guess. Looks like the screws are one use snap off underneath the barrel too - may look to see if I can grease the pin in situ??
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Mon, 7 Nov 2022 at 22:37, ADHDOOM < adhdoom@...> wrote: Hi Ding,
Off the top of my head I think the key pushes out a pin to lock the steering so the key might be moving back and forward but the pin is stuck and therefore not returning. You might find once you remove the barrel assembly it just needs a little jiggle and some lube… though personally I’ve been considering removing the barrel and hiding a kill switch too.?
I’m not a fan of the overly large dash and want to cut back to just a single small Speedo which I think would look nice nested where the key currently resides. Just grind the loop off of the top tree and you’ve got a nice little half round recess.?
Had the aluminium tube arrive today and should hopefully be taking it to my friends workshop tomorrow to cut it to size. Will post pics once I’m done.?
? Would be very keen to hear how your Pod filters are going - cant help with the throttle sensor though I am afraid.
Had a weird?issue with the ignition barrel though. Key turns, but does nothing and the steering lock is now on permanently!. Thinking of removing the whole shebang and hiding a kill switch.
What do you reckon?
Cheers for your time.?
Ding. On Sun, 6 Nov 2022 at 13:26, ADHDOOM < adhdoom@...> wrote: Hi peeps,
Got a couple of quick questions/requests that I'm hoping someone on here has the technical knowledge/effort to spare to answer for me:
Firstly does the throttle sensor adjust the timing when the bike is in use or is it just there to facilitate the function of the kickstand safety feature? I know that when the kickstand is still down and you drive to rev it kills the power so obviously the throttle sensor is involved in this feature but does it actually do anything else? If the kickstand safety feature was removed along with any associated elements could the throttle sensor then also be removed? I've played round with bikes that have CDI ignition systems like this before and none of the earlier bikes I've messed with have had or needed a throttle sensor so I am curious to know if the kickstand safety kill is all that it is there for.
Secondly would someone be able to post me a pic of the underside of the carbs? I had my float bowls off and was about to start putting them back on and have found a fifth slightly longer screw that I am not sure actually came off of the carb or is simply one that was left on my bench when I started.
Also I am in the process of fitting pod filters to the standard CV carbs and am trying a custom trick of making some short aluminum tube inserts to sit inside the pod filter that reduce ever so slightly to create a restriction and therefore maintain the constant velocity required to keep these carbs working as they should. If anyone's interested I'll post up pics of my custom inserts and of the results of how it runs etc... and before anyone says why am I putting pod filters on and to just leave the standard air box it's because I am going to start modifying the frame so there is no room for the standard airbox.
Thanks in advance!
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?I had the throttle position sensor fail on mine.
I would ride a few minutes and get up on the highway and it
would die like it was out of gas. Wait a few minutes it would
start right up. At first I thought possibly the fuel tank vent
wasn't venting and it was pulling a vacuum in the tank. I opened
the fuel cap and it started up. I soon realized that didn't have
anything to do with it. Somewhere I read to check the TPS. I
ordered a test harness (part # in the service manual) and it was
out of spec and couldn't be adjusted. Ordered a new one, set it
with the test harness (in ohms) and it's been fine since.
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Hey Guys, Is there a Listing for Sale thread / area here? I can't find it. I know no one will understand why - but I think I need to sell my 2001 W650 - I just have too many bikes, and it doesn't really fit me well. Otherwise it's in great shape. Wife doesn't really want me to - as she "loves the color" - but I'm just trying to be practical. So, let me know if there's a For Sale section to post in or ? Thanks, P
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Honda used to have a center position on the high/low beam handlebar switch.? If the battery needs an extra boost, you just turn on the lights and position the high/low switch in the center position.?? My 1963 Honda 305 Super Hawk is set up this way.?? Comes in handy especially when you have a dumb charging system that is fixed to charge at a set amount and doesn't start putting out a useful charge until you hit 3000 rpm.
Bob
On Sunday, November 6, 2022 at 08:20:51 PM PST, Peter Wainwright <pete.wainwright.nz@...> wrote:
I have put a toggle switch, breaking electricity to the front light low beam filament. It Saves 55w in case of battery goes dud and needs a quicker charge. One is then only using the 5w on the backlight.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Good point - the W is infamous for acting wonky if a) the battery is weak or b) the terminals are anything less than gorilla-tight. S
Perhaps check if the battery is failing or the termia ?connections?
Andy? ?Little help please. Bike ran great, strong, made a noise and stalled. Won’t start with kick or electric. Seems to make a noise ?at the valve cover. Haven’t checked for spark yet. It seems like it happened when it blew a rear turn signal bulb. Don’t know if it was a coincidence. Any ideas??? Thanks?
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Thanks, going to check for spark. Engine turns over seems to make a funny noise at the valve cover. I will keep you posted. Thanks Everyone?
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Hi Ding,
Off the top of my head I think the key pushes out a pin to lock the steering so the key might be moving back and forward but the pin is stuck and therefore not returning. You might find once you remove the barrel assembly it just needs a little jiggle and some lube… though personally I’ve been considering removing the barrel and hiding a kill switch too.?
I’m not a fan of the overly large dash and want to cut back to just a single small Speedo which I think would look nice nested where the key currently resides. Just grind the loop off of the top tree and you’ve got a nice little half round recess.?
Had the aluminium tube arrive today and should hopefully be taking it to my friends workshop tomorrow to cut it to size. Will post pics once I’m done.?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On 7/11/2022, at 9:27 PM, Ding <vocationalassessment@...> wrote:
? Would be very keen to hear how your Pod filters are going - cant help with the throttle sensor though I am afraid.
Had a weird?issue with the ignition barrel though. Key turns, but does nothing and the steering lock is now on permanently!. Thinking of removing the whole shebang and hiding a kill switch.
What do you reckon?
Cheers for your time.?
Ding. On Sun, 6 Nov 2022 at 13:26, ADHDOOM < adhdoom@...> wrote: Hi peeps,
Got a couple of quick questions/requests that I'm hoping someone on here has the technical knowledge/effort to spare to answer for me:
Firstly does the throttle sensor adjust the timing when the bike is in use or is it just there to facilitate the function of the kickstand safety feature? I know that when the kickstand is still down and you drive to rev it kills the power so obviously the throttle sensor is involved in this feature but does it actually do anything else? If the kickstand safety feature was removed along with any associated elements could the throttle sensor then also be removed? I've played round with bikes that have CDI ignition systems like this before and none of the earlier bikes I've messed with have had or needed a throttle sensor so I am curious to know if the kickstand safety kill is all that it is there for.
Secondly would someone be able to post me a pic of the underside of the carbs? I had my float bowls off and was about to start putting them back on and have found a fifth slightly longer screw that I am not sure actually came off of the carb or is simply one that was left on my bench when I started.
Also I am in the process of fitting pod filters to the standard CV carbs and am trying a custom trick of making some short aluminum tube inserts to sit inside the pod filter that reduce ever so slightly to create a restriction and therefore maintain the constant velocity required to keep these carbs working as they should. If anyone's interested I'll post up pics of my custom inserts and of the results of how it runs etc... and before anyone says why am I putting pod filters on and to just leave the standard air box it's because I am going to start modifying the frame so there is no room for the standard airbox.
Thanks in advance!
|
Would be very keen to hear how your Pod filters are going - cant help with the throttle sensor though I am afraid.
Had a weird?issue with the ignition barrel though. Key turns, but does nothing and the steering lock is now on permanently!. Thinking of removing the whole shebang and hiding a kill switch.
What do you reckon?
Cheers for your time.?
Ding.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Sun, 6 Nov 2022 at 13:26, ADHDOOM < adhdoom@...> wrote: Hi peeps,
Got a couple of quick questions/requests that I'm hoping someone on here has the technical knowledge/effort to spare to answer for me:
Firstly does the throttle sensor adjust the timing when the bike is in use or is it just there to facilitate the function of the kickstand safety feature? I know that when the kickstand is still down and you drive to rev it kills the power so obviously the throttle sensor is involved in this feature but does it actually do anything else? If the kickstand safety feature was removed along with any associated elements could the throttle sensor then also be removed? I've played round with bikes that have CDI ignition systems like this before and none of the earlier bikes I've messed with have had or needed a throttle sensor so I am curious to know if the kickstand safety kill is all that it is there for.
Secondly would someone be able to post me a pic of the underside of the carbs? I had my float bowls off and was about to start putting them back on and have found a fifth slightly longer screw that I am not sure actually came off of the carb or is simply one that was left on my bench when I started.
Also I am in the process of fitting pod filters to the standard CV carbs and am trying a custom trick of making some short aluminum tube inserts to sit inside the pod filter that reduce ever so slightly to create a restriction and therefore maintain the constant velocity required to keep these carbs working as they should. If anyone's interested I'll post up pics of my custom inserts and of the results of how it runs etc... and before anyone says why am I putting pod filters on and to just leave the standard air box it's because I am going to start modifying the frame so there is no room for the standard airbox.
Thanks in advance!
|
I have put a toggle switch, breaking electricity to the front light low beam filament. It Saves 55w in case of battery goes dud and needs a quicker charge. One is then only using the 5w on the backlight.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Good point - the W is infamous for acting wonky if a) the battery is weak or b) the terminals are anything less than gorilla-tight. S
Perhaps check if the battery is failing or the termia ?connections?
Andy? ?Little help please. Bike ran great, strong, made a noise and stalled. Won’t start with kick or electric. Seems to make a noise ?at the valve cover. Haven’t checked for spark yet. It seems like it happened when it blew a rear turn signal bulb. Don’t know if it was a coincidence. Any ideas??? Thanks?
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Good point - the W is infamous for acting wonky if a) the battery is weak or b) the terminals are anything less than gorilla-tight. S
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Perhaps check if the battery is failing or the termia ?connections?
Andy? ?Little help please. Bike ran great, strong, made a noise and stalled. Won’t start with kick or electric. Seems to make a noise ?at the valve cover. Haven’t checked for spark yet. It seems like it happened when it blew a rear turn signal bulb. Don’t know if it was a coincidence. Any ideas??? Thanks?
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Perhaps check if the battery is failing or the termia ?connections?
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Show quoted text
On Nov 5, 2022, at 2:41 PM, Cory Campbell via groups.io <corym52@...> wrote:
?Little help please. Bike ran great, strong, made a noise and stalled. Won’t start with kick or electric. Seems to make a noise ?at the valve cover. Haven’t checked for spark yet. It seems like it happened when it blew a rear turn signal bulb. Don’t know if it was a coincidence. Any ideas??? Thanks?
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Thanks Matthew!
I hadn’t considered a clutch switch. I know it kills power once a gear is engaged and you try to take off with the kickstand down so was thinking that maybe that was what the throttle sensor was for. I also had been informed that if the throttle sensor is taken off it’s a bitch to put back properly. Clutch switch for the kickstand safety would make more sense though.?
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On 7/11/2022, at 1:34 AM, Matthew Szostak <gurdy4me@...> wrote:
? On Nov 5, 2022, at 8:26 PM, ADHDOOM < adhdoom@...> wrote:
Hi peeps,
Got a couple of quick questions/requests that I'm hoping someone on here has the technical knowledge/effort to spare to answer for me:
Firstly does the throttle sensor adjust the timing when the bike is in use or is it just there to facilitate the function of the kickstand safety feature? I know that when the kickstand is still down and you drive to rev it kills the power so obviously the throttle sensor is involved in this feature but does it actually do anything else? If the kickstand safety feature was removed along with any associated elements could the throttle sensor then also be removed? I've played round with bikes that have CDI ignition systems like this before and none of the earlier bikes I've messed with have had or needed a throttle sensor so I am curious to know if the kickstand safety kill is all that it is there for.
Secondly would someone be able to post me a pic of the underside of the carbs? I had my float bowls off and was about to start putting them back on and have found a fifth slightly longer screw that I am not sure actually came off of the carb or is simply one that was left on my bench when I started.
I didn’t think the throttle sensor was part of the “kickstand safety feature” at all (neutral switch and clutch switch, yes). ? Happy to stand corrected on that, though.
I never know if my replies with attachments are going to work… these pics help? ?According to my parts manual, all eight float bowl screws are the same size, but maybe one or more are longer? ?Perhaps where the idle adjuster knob bracket attaches? ?It’s been so long since I’ve had my carbs off, I can’t remember.
Hey, that right-side bowl looks like it might be cracked? It isn’t, though...
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The sound I have no idea but I might check the fuse box for a blown circuit. Possibly related to the blown signal.?
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