SL replacement drive belts
Hi
Just had a belt? break on my SL today while milling (on the Myford). Could someone tell me who sells SL belts in the UK please?
Thanks. Leslie
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Re: Overall Performance of Unimat 3
Neil,
I checked the files section for the drawing of the Sherline threading attachment adapter for the U3 and saw what I think is the file you referenced but I could not open the file for viewing.
Do you know if the file is empty or corrupted?
I am going to contact Sherline directly to get information that may shed some light on this. I am sure I can figure this out myself but did not want to reinvent the wheel if I can avoid that.
Thanks for your help.
Dick
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Re: Mauser caliper question
I would suggest that JHM, you search the internet for “how to read a Vernier scale”, it’s easy to do but harder to describe here in words than see in a sketch online. ?
(I’m in my mid sixties and when I was in year 3 secondary school (13-14yo), one pupil had an electronic calculator with glowing red numbers. ?We learnt to read vernier callipers in Physics classes, but it would have dropped off the syllabus within a few years. ?I had a slide rule that my uncle, an eminent physicist, said, had more functions on it than he’d ever used, but my fellow pupils scorned my claim to be able to read 4 significant figures off it. ?4 figure logarithm tables were the norm. But I still use my slide rule to take dimensions off an odd-scaled drawing of a model subject. )
?Digital devices give us a wonderful sense of precision, but the workpiece’s actual precision is never better than its least accurate dimension.
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Show quoted text
On 25 Jul 2022, at 21:43, sawbona@... wrote:
?Hello: On Mon, Jul 25, 2022 at 02:07 PM, Bill in OKC too wrote:
This site may help you ...
Thanks for the link. It does read in mm I can read 25.4mm when I set it at 1.0" like in the photo I uploaded. It is the lack of numbers in the lower scale is what seemed strange to me. I found a Mauser-Messzeug catalogue from the early/mid 1950's with what would seem to be the complete Mauser line of measuring instruments. My 25mm / 0.01 micrometer is there and now my 160mm caliper. I'll upload it to the files section for reference. Thanks for your input. Best, JHM
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Re: Mauser caliper question
I have a cheap dial caliper (~$30) I got in the mid 80's, and it's still doing well after all these years with almost daily use.? I have better ones, but the old one still gets the most use.? I will also add that the HF digital calipers are hit or miss.? I have one that has always been a bit flakey, but when it's working correctly, it performs just as well as my Mitutyou digital micrometer.? When it's misbehaving, it zeros randomly and likes switching units, particularly inch to mm.? Some people never have problems, others are similar to mine.
-Dave
On Monday, July 25, 2022 at 01:54:50 PM PDT, sawbona@... <sawbona@...> wrote:
On Mon, Jul 25, 2022 at 04:04 PM, Carl wrote:
... lower scale is metric, each line is 1mm and with the vernier you can read to 0.1mm ...
Yes, I can make it out to 0.1 mm. Then the lack of numbers must be because this model can read only up to 0.1 mm The rest you have to guess.
... top scale is inches, each line is 1/16" and with the vernier you can read to 1/64" ...
I have never been able to make much sense of inches, even though I went to school abroad and learned how to measure in inches before doing so in the metric system.? 8^/
... use dial calipers instead.
I have never had the chance to use them and my eyesight constantly reminds me that it may be a good thing to get one. But I have always had the feeling that they are fragile, same as the electronic ones. The less expensive ones ie: cheap even more so, as well as inaccurate. When I get my U3 fully set up and all the needed tooling I am now needing has been purchased I may undertake one of the many basic digital readouts I have seen published for the U3. Or maybe just invest/make a decent set of handwheels, the original ones are a real PITA. Thanks for your input. Best, JHM
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Re: Overall Performance of Unimat 3
Neil,
Thanks for the quick reply and the heads-up
Steve
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Show quoted text
On 7/25/2022 4:06 PM, Neil Morrison wrote: Buy the Sherline set for their lathe. There are instructions on our site
to make a little adapter to use them on a U3.
Neil
On Mon., Jul. 25, 2022, 15:46 Steve, <srjones@...
<mailto:srjones@...>> wrote:
Where on the Sherline Web site do they offer "gears" for a Unimat U3?
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Re: Overall Performance of Unimat 3
Buy the Sherline set for their lathe. There are instructions on our site to make a little adapter to use them on a U3.
Neil
On Mon., Jul. 25, 2022, 15:46 Steve, < srjones@...> wrote: Where on the Sherline Web site do they offer "gears" for a Unimat U3?
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Re: Overall Performance of Unimat 3
Where on the Sherline Web site do they offer "gears" for a Unimat U3?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On 7/25/2022 9:07 AM, OldToolmaker via groups.io wrote: I am aware Sherline has thread gear sets for the Unimat 3 in both metric
as well as imperial.
I am not sure if they are compatible or adaptable
to the SL and DB.
I would think they could be adapted.
Dick
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The following files and folders have been uploaded to
the Files area of the [email protected] group.
By: @juliushenrymarx <sawbona@...>
Description:
Scan of an early/mid 1950's Hans Lehmann photo catalogue of what seems to be the whole line of measuring instruments manufactured by Mauser-Messzeug GMBH at that time. Only photos and model numbers, unfortunately no descriptions or details.
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Re: Mauser caliper question
Hello:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Mon, Jul 25, 2022 at 04:04 PM, Carl wrote:
... lower scale is metric, each line is 1mm and with the vernier you can read to 0.1mm ...
Yes, I can make it out to 0.1 mm. Then the lack of numbers must be because this model can read only up to 0.1 mm The rest you have to guess.
... top scale is inches, each line is 1/16" and with the vernier you can read to 1/64" ...
I have never been able to make much sense of inches, even though I went to school abroad and learned how to measure in inches before doing so in the metric system.? 8^/
... use dial calipers instead.
I have never had the chance to use them and my eyesight constantly reminds me that it may be a good thing to get one. But I have always had the feeling that they are fragile, same as the electronic ones. The less expensive ones ie: cheap even more so, as well as inaccurate. When I get my U3 fully set up and all the needed tooling I am now needing has been purchased I may undertake one of the many basic digital readouts I have seen published for the U3. Or maybe just invest/make a decent set of handwheels, the original ones are a real PITA. Thanks for your input. Best, JHM
|
Re: Mauser caliper question
Hello:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Mon, Jul 25, 2022 at 02:07 PM, Bill in OKC too wrote:
This site may help you ...
Thanks for the link. It does read in mm I can read 25.4mm when I set it at 1.0" like in the photo I uploaded. It is the lack of numbers in the lower scale is what seemed strange to me. I found a Mauser-Messzeug catalogue from the early/mid 1950's with what would seem to be the complete Mauser line of measuring instruments. My 25mm / 0.01 micrometer is there and now my 160mm caliper. I'll upload it to the files section for reference. Thanks for your input. Best, JHM
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Re: Mauser caliper question
Hello
JHM:
The
lower scale is metric, each line is 1mm and with the vernier
you can read to 0.1mm, (0.004"). The caliper is set to 25.4mm
( 1" ).
The top
scale is inches, each line is 1/16" and with the vernier you
can read to 1/64" ( 0.015625" or 0.4mm ). 4 times courser that
the metric scale. Not the handiest scale, a scale that reads
to 0.001" is much more useful.
I never
use my vernier caliper, I use dial calipers instead. The
electronic calipers are handy, they switch from metric to
inches and you can set zero anywhere for comparison
measurements. But they take batteries and the electronic may
fail some day with no way to repair. On the plus side Harbor
Freight has them cheap.
Carl.
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Show quoted text
Hello:
While looking for something else, this morning I came across a
brand new 6" Mauser caliper on sale at? the local e-place.
I'm a magnet for these things and could not let it pass by.
Much less when it was going for a bit under US$16.00.
A beautifully made instrument, it has an aura of quality all over
it.
There is a inch/mm Whitworth equivalence table on the back of the
slider (with German/Italian/Spanish abbreviations) and what seems
to be a table of weights for round and square steel in kg/m, have
to study to see how to read it properly.
Two things caught my attention: it does not say "Made in Germany"
or "Made in W. Germany".
But the small leaflet with the Mauser logo says Mauser-Messzug
GmbH and Oberndorf-Neckar, where heavy industries such as Heckler
& Koch are located.
Could it be from as far back as the mid 1950's?
The tiny two page leaflet inside the plastic box it came in reads
56-100-12.56-HB., which could well be date of print.
That would make it ~67 years old.
The other is the scale.
I have not been around much, but all the calipers I have used have
a different type of scale.
ie: with numbers
Maybe because it is just for up to 0.1 mm?
Thanks in advance.
Best,
JHM
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Re: Mauser caliper question
This site may help you:?
I have a Helios vernier caliper I bought very used when I was 17 or 18. Unfortunately, I'm not exactly sure where it is right now. ;) IIRC, the scales are numbered on mine. I suspect yours is meant to measure in centimeters and fractions thereof, not millimeters. I'm not at all sure how to measure with that sort of vernier, despite having owned one for so long. Mine was meant for fractional inches, though it does have the metric scales, as well. Even if not great for fractional millimeters, it's going to be fine for measuring raw stock, and I'd have snapped it up, myself. I'm fond of Mauser firearms, too.?
Bill in OKC
William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)
Aphorisms to live by: Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement.? SEMPER GUMBY!
On Monday, July 25, 2022 at 11:49:35 AM CDT, sawbona@... <sawbona@...> wrote:
Hello: While looking for something else, this morning I came across a brand new 6" Mauser caliper on sale at? the local e-place. I'm a magnet for these things and could not let it pass by. Much less when it was going for a bit under US$16.00.  A beautifully made instrument, it has an aura of quality all over it. There is a inch/mm Whitworth equivalence table on the back of the slider (with German/Italian/Spanish abbreviations) and what seems to be a table of weights for round and square steel in kg/m, have to study to see how to read it properly. Two things caught my attention: it does not say "Made in Germany" or "Made in W. Germany". But the small leaflet with the Mauser logo says Mauser-Messzug GmbH and Oberndorf-Neckar, where heavy industries such as Heckler & Koch are located. Could it be from as far back as the mid 1950's? The tiny two page leaflet inside the plastic box it came in reads 56-100-12.56-HB., which could well be date of print. That would make it ~67 years old. The other is the scale. I have not been around much, but all the calipers I have used have a different type of scale. ie: with numbers Maybe because it is just for up to 0.1 mm? Thanks in advance. Best, JHM
|
Hello: While looking for something else, this morning I came across a brand new 6" Mauser caliper on sale at? the local e-place. I'm a magnet for these things and could not let it pass by. Much less when it was going for a bit under US$16.00.  A beautifully made instrument, it has an aura of quality all over it. There is a inch/mm Whitworth equivalence table on the back of the slider (with German/Italian/Spanish abbreviations) and what seems to be a table of weights for round and square steel in kg/m, have to study to see how to read it properly. Two things caught my attention: it does not say "Made in Germany" or "Made in W. Germany". But the small leaflet with the Mauser logo says Mauser-Messzug GmbH and Oberndorf-Neckar, where heavy industries such as Heckler & Koch are located. Could it be from as far back as the mid 1950's? The tiny two page leaflet inside the plastic box it came in reads 56-100-12.56-HB., which could well be date of print. That would make it ~67 years old. The other is the scale. I have not been around much, but all the calipers I have used have a different type of scale. ie: with numbers Maybe because it is just for up to 0.1 mm? Thanks in advance. Best, JHM
|
Re: A slight diversion from chuck issues: 24v DC motor wire code
Had a solar hot water heater controller like that on my house in Las Vegas in the early 80's. That company didn't another dime from me.?
A few years ago one of the industrial washing machines I was working on had a small electrical fire that damaged? a bunch of the wiring. All the wire in that machine was red, but there were number tags on all the wires. It took me most of a week, but I completely rewired the machine. Marking on the wires & connectors makes the difference.?
A lot of years ago, I built my first computer from articles in Radio Electronics magazine.? It used wire-wrap sockets, and I could only afford one roll of the wire, at $25 per. First-time power up let the magic smoke out of some very expensive chips. They? call that "pound wise, penny foolish." It would have taken a couple more months to get more colors of wire but I didn't want to wait any longer.?
It's easier do it right than do it again. See my first aphorism. :)
William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)
Aphorisms to live by: Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement.? SEMPER GUMBY!
On Monday, July 25, 2022 at 02:11:38 AM CDT, Brian Symons <brians@...> wrote:
You can always sleeve the leads of your motor for safety sake
even with heatshrink.?
It is cheap enough & readily available as well as easy to use.
I've done it before on gear that I wanted to make MORE fool
proof.
I once worked on a dental chair that the manufacturer wired
everything in the same gauge white wire.?
There were multiple voltages all the same wire - DC extra low
voltage to manual controls with metal parts, mains wiring ... the
works.?
Even many earths were in the same white but I think the mains was
green earth.
No wiring had any markings on it & the same single pin
connector was used on every wire to the PCBs.
The PCB also had no markings identifying what any connector was
for or even a connector number.?
That was years ago & that manufacturer did it to stop anyone
servicing their gear.?
Every IC had the markings sandblasted off them & even the
transistors had been defaced as well as some discrete components.
They would probably not be game to go quite so far now days with
wiring for safety reasons but I have seen newer gear that has all
the IC markings removed.
On 25-July-2022 4:08 pm, Gerald Feldman
wrote:
The
problem is the same as that with thread sizes – there are
simply too many of them to be uniform everywhere.
?
Even
just In the US, for house wiring (120 / 240 volts), ground
is bare or green, hot is black, and neutral is white (or
gray).? If the other phase of the hot is in the same
conduit, it may be any other color, but is usually red.? For
industrial three-phase wiring, the “standard” colors will
vary with the voltage, and whether the distribution is delta
or wye.
?
Of
course, what is important is that the colors (or thread
sizes) used throughout the job are uniform and that everyone
working on the job understands exactly what “standard” is
being used.
?
Jerry
F.
?
?
The colours used on the motor in question indicate the
manufacturer has given no thought to safety and just used a
commonly available cheap cable. I would never use the colours
for mains wiring on anything not intended to be plugged into
the mains.
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Re: Overall Performance of Unimat 3
I am aware Sherline has thread gear sets for the Unimat 3 in both metric as well as imperial.
I am not sure if they are compatible or adaptable?
to the SL and DB.
I would think they could be adapted.
Dick
|
Re: A slight diversion from chuck issues: 24v DC motor wire code
Thanks for the correction John.? I think it is what I was taught
in school many years ago, but it may have been reinforced or
misremembered by knowing that in monochrome processes such as
photocopying that I guess are optimised for the centre of the
visible sprectrum, red comes out as dense black and yellow comes
out as bright white.? Meanwhile the poster who suggested that this
motor was wired using whatever came to hand, has the most
plausible explanation to my mins.
regards
Mehmood
On 24/07/2022 04:07, John Clark wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
As one who is red/green color blind (the
most common color blindness) I can tell you that red does not
look black.? Contrary to what many think, color blind people
do not see just in black & white.? For me, and depending
on the shade, red, green, and brown can all look alike, though
not always.? Some shades of blue and purple can look alike.?
?
I’m not familiar with the European wire
color standards but I’m certain they didn’t change anything
because red looked black.?
?
John in Charlotte
?
?
Probably ok if this is 24VDC.
But …
standand European domestic mains appliances are Brown =
Live, Blue = neutral, yellow/green = Earth. ? We stopped
using red/black for live/neutral a long time ago due to red
colourblindness when red looks black.
On 23
Jul 2022, at 03:25, Bill in OKC too via groups.io
<wmrmeyers@...> wrote:
?
Negative
is brown and? blue is positive.?
.
Covers most of the current wiring codes for the
world.?
William
R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)
Good
judgement comes from experience.
Experience comes from bad
judgement.?
Improvise,
Adapt, and Overcome.
Physics doesn't care about your
schedule.
The only reason I know anything is
because I've done it wrong enough times
to START to know better
?
On
Friday, July 22, 2022 at 08:30:44 PM CDT,
William Macy via groups.io
<wkmacy@...> wrote:
Greetings
all.
I am in the process of converting my SL to
a 24 dc scooter motor according to
instructions and illustrations in the
“Photos” section. What is unclear to me is
determining which are the positive and
negative leads from the motor to the power
supply. My motor has brown and blue leads.
Am I correct is assuming that the brown
wire is the ground or negative one? The
rest of the wiring is clear to me except
where the green ground lead originates. I
would think attaching the motor end to the
motor or metal mount should work fine.
Regards, Bill
|
Re: A slight diversion from chuck issues: 24v DC motor wire code
You can always sleeve the leads of your motor for safety sake
even with heatshrink.?
It is cheap enough & readily available as well as easy to use.
I've done it before on gear that I wanted to make MORE fool
proof.
I once worked on a dental chair that the manufacturer wired
everything in the same gauge white wire.?
There were multiple voltages all the same wire - DC extra low
voltage to manual controls with metal parts, mains wiring ... the
works.?
Even many earths were in the same white but I think the mains was
green earth.
No wiring had any markings on it & the same single pin
connector was used on every wire to the PCBs.
The PCB also had no markings identifying what any connector was
for or even a connector number.?
That was years ago & that manufacturer did it to stop anyone
servicing their gear.?
Every IC had the markings sandblasted off them & even the
transistors had been defaced as well as some discrete components.
They would probably not be game to go quite so far now days with
wiring for safety reasons but I have seen newer gear that has all
the IC markings removed.
On 25-July-2022 4:08 pm, Gerald Feldman
wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
The
problem is the same as that with thread sizes – there are
simply too many of them to be uniform everywhere.
?
Even
just In the US, for house wiring (120 / 240 volts), ground
is bare or green, hot is black, and neutral is white (or
gray).? If the other phase of the hot is in the same
conduit, it may be any other color, but is usually red.? For
industrial three-phase wiring, the “standard” colors will
vary with the voltage, and whether the distribution is delta
or wye.
?
Of
course, what is important is that the colors (or thread
sizes) used throughout the job are uniform and that everyone
working on the job understands exactly what “standard” is
being used.
?
Jerry
F.
?
?
The colours used on the motor in question indicate the
manufacturer has given no thought to safety and just used a
commonly available cheap cable. I would never use the colours
for mains wiring on anything not intended to be plugged into
the mains.
Groups.io Links:
You receive all messages sent to this group.
View/Reply Online (#58449) | Reply To Group | Reply To Sender | Mute This Topic | New
Topic
Your Subscription | Contact
Group Owner | Unsubscribe [brians@...]
_._,_._,_
|
Re: A slight diversion from chuck issues: 24v DC motor wire code
The problem is the same as that with thread sizes – there are simply too many of them to be uniform everywhere. ? Even just In the US, for house wiring (120 / 240 volts), ground is bare or green, hot is black, and neutral is white (or gray).? If the other phase of the hot is in the same conduit, it may be any other color, but is usually red.? For industrial three-phase wiring, the “standard” colors will vary with the voltage, and whether the distribution is delta or wye. ? Of course, what is important is that the colors (or thread sizes) used throughout the job are uniform and that everyone working on the job understands exactly what “standard” is being used. ? Jerry F. ?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Keith S. Angus
Sent: Sunday, July 24, 2022 10:21 PM
To: Mike Gidley; [email protected]
Subject: Re: [Unimat] A slight diversion from chuck issues: 24v DC motor wire code? On Sun, Jul 24, 2022 at 04:28 AM, Mike Gidley wrote: I was told that the Brown Blue and Green with a yellow stripe was changed because of the Red /Green colourblindness. I dont think Black was part of the change. And green was always earth ? As I recall the change was made because of the many different and often dangerously contradictory colour codes around the world. The colours arrived at were what was left when all the contradictions were deleted. The use of brown and blue for DC supplies is a major mistake and will inevitably lead to someone connecting a low voltage DC motor to the mains supply, 240 V 50 Hz around here. You may say no-one would be that daft, but I know someone who wired the power inlet of his radio, clearly labelled 6 V DC, to the mains and was most surprised when it all went BANG.
A generally accepted convention is black for 0 V, red for positive, and blue for negative, if you have a split supply. However, my German built motorbikes use the DIN standard for vehicles (very possibly superseded by now) is brown for 0 V and red for +12 V. Other colours including green and yellow (but not Green/Yellow) and many bi-colour wires are used for different wires around the vehicle. The colours for wiring industrial machines, according to the international standard, is black for power supplies, regardless of voltage, AC or DC, or polarity, red for AC control signals, again without regard to voltage, and blue for DC control signals, also regardless of voltage. There are a few other uses of colour, and the colours are not mandatory, but Green/Yellow is strictly reserved for safety earthing, and all Green/Yellow wires are to be earthed.
The colours used on the motor in question indicate the manufacturer has given no thought to safety and just used a commonly available cheap cable. I would never use the colours for mains wiring on anything not intended to be plugged into the mains.
Anyway, in terms of the motor in question, the polarity does not depend on the wire colours, but on which way you want the motor to rotate. If the motor was being used in both forward and reverse the colours would have little meaning, at least in a one off installation.
|
Re: A slight diversion from chuck issues: 24v DC motor wire code
On Sun, Jul 24, 2022 at 04:28 AM, Mike Gidley wrote:
I was told that the Brown Blue and Green with a yellow stripe was changed because of the Red /Green colourblindness. I dont think Black was part of the change. And green was always earth.
?
As I recall the change was made because of the many different and often dangerously contradictory colour codes around the world. The colours arrived at were what was left when all the contradictions were deleted. The use of brown and blue for DC supplies is a major mistake and will inevitably lead to someone connecting a low voltage DC motor to the mains supply, 240 V 50 Hz around here. You may say no-one would be that daft, but I know someone who wired the power inlet of his radio, clearly labelled 6 V DC, to the mains and was most surprised when it all went BANG. A generally accepted convention is black for 0 V, red for positive, and blue for negative, if you have a split supply. However, my German built motorbikes use the DIN standard for vehicles (very possibly superseded by now) is brown for 0 V and red for +12 V. Other colours including green and yellow (but not Green/Yellow) and many bi-colour wires are used for different wires around the vehicle. The colours for wiring industrial machines, according to the international standard, is black for power supplies, regardless of voltage, AC or DC, or polarity, red for AC control signals, again without regard to voltage, and blue for DC control signals, also regardless of voltage. There are a few other uses of colour, and the colours are not mandatory, but Green/Yellow is strictly reserved for safety earthing, and all Green/Yellow wires are to be earthed. The colours used on the motor in question indicate the manufacturer has given no thought to safety and just used a commonly available cheap cable. I would never use the colours for mains wiring on anything not intended to be plugged into the mains. Anyway, in terms of the motor in question, the polarity does not depend on the wire colours, but on which way you want the motor to rotate. If the motor was being used in both forward and reverse the colours would have little meaning, at least in a one off installation.
|
Re: A slight diversion from chuck issues: 24v DC motor wire code
Hi John?
I was told that the Brown Blue and Green with a yellow stripe was changed because of the Red /Green colourblindness. I dont think Black was part of the change. And green was always earth.
|
OldToolmaker
Carl
Bill in OKC too
