Re: A slight diversion from chuck issues: 24v DC motor wire code
As one who is red/green color blind (the most common color blindness) I can tell you that red does not look black.? Contrary to what many think, color blind people do not see just in black & white.? For me, and depending on the shade, red,
green, and brown can all look alike, though not always.? Some shades of blue and purple can look alike.?
?
I¡¯m not familiar with the European wire color standards but I¡¯m certain they didn¡¯t change anything because red looked black.?
?
John in Charlotte
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From: Mehmood via groups.io
Sent: Saturday, July 23, 2022 3:45 AM
To: [email protected];
wmrmeyers@...
Subject: Re: [Unimat] A slight diversion from chuck issues: 24v DC motor wire code
?
Probably ok if this is 24VDC.
But ¡ standand European domestic mains appliances are Brown = Live, Blue = neutral, yellow/green = Earth. ? We stopped using red/black for live/neutral a long time ago due to red colourblindness when red looks
black.
On 23 Jul 2022, at 03:25, Bill in OKC too via groups.io <wmrmeyers@...> wrote:
?
Negative is brown and? blue is positive.?
https://electricalfundablog.com/wiring-color-codes-us. Covers most of the current wiring codes for the world.?
https://electricalfundablog.com/wiring-color-codes-us
William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)
Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement.?
Improvise, Adapt, and Overcome.
Physics doesn't care about your schedule.
The only reason I know anything is because I've done it wrong enough times to START to know better
?
On Friday, July 22, 2022 at 08:30:44 PM CDT, William Macy via groups.io <wkmacy@...> wrote:
Greetings all.
I am in the process of converting my SL to a 24 dc scooter motor according to instructions and illustrations in the ¡°Photos¡± section. What is unclear to me is determining which are the positive and negative leads from the motor to the power supply. My motor
has brown and blue leads. Am I correct is assuming that the brown wire is the ground or negative one? The rest of the wiring is clear to me except where the green ground lead originates. I would think attaching the motor end to the motor or metal mount should
work fine.
Regards, Bill
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Re: Overall Performance of Unimat 3
Thanks, Neil
I will check out the files section.
It probably would be the most logical place to begin.
Dick
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Re: Overall Performance of Unimat 3
The manual is in the files section and is a great help. The thread masters are so expensive it's cheaper to use gears. There's a Unimat set that's just metric or the Sherline set that does both.
Neil?
On Fri., Jul. 22, 2022, 17:33 OldToolmaker via , <old_toolmaker= [email protected]> wrote: Peter,
Does the hand crank threading attachment use thread masters or a lead screw and gearing to establish the lead such as an engine lathe would use? Just trying to understand.
Dick
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Re: A slight diversion from chuck issues: 24v DC motor wire code
Bill,
Thanks much for the link.
As a result I have learned something ¡°new to me¡± about wire color coding world wide.
I have apparently been in my own small world.
Dick
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Re: A slight diversion from chuck issues: 24v DC motor wire code
Probably ok if this is 24VDC.
But ¡ standand European domestic mains appliances are Brown = Live, Blue = neutral, yellow/green = Earth. ? We stopped using red/black for live/neutral a long time ago due to red colourblindness when red looks black.
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On 23 Jul 2022, at 03:25, Bill in OKC too via groups.io <wmrmeyers@...> wrote:
? Negative is brown and? blue is positive.?
https://electricalfundablog.com/wiring-color-codes-us. Covers most of the current wiring codes for the world.?
Bill in OKC?
https://electricalfundablog.com/wiring-color-codes-us
William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)
Aphorisms to live by: Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement.? SEMPER GUMBY!
On Friday, July 22, 2022 at 08:30:44 PM CDT, William Macy via groups.io <wkmacy@...> wrote:
Greetings all.
I am in the process of converting my SL to a 24 dc scooter motor according to instructions and illustrations in the ¡°Photos¡± section. What is unclear to me is determining which are the positive and negative leads from the motor to the power supply. My motor has brown and blue leads. Am I correct is assuming that the brown wire is the ground or negative one? The rest of the wiring is clear to me except where the green ground lead originates. I would think attaching the motor end to the motor or metal mount should work fine.
Regards, Bill
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Re: A slight diversion from chuck issues: 24v DC motor wire code
Thanks Bill for the info and code reference. That¡¯s just what I was looking for. I did find something similar for Chinese wire coding but it was a bit ambiguous.
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On Jul 22, 2022, at 10:25 PM, Bill in OKC too via groups.io <wmrmeyers@...> wrote:
? Negative is brown and? blue is positive.?
https://electricalfundablog.com/wiring-color-codes-us. Covers most of the current wiring codes for the world.?
Bill in OKC?
https://electricalfundablog.com/wiring-color-codes-us
William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)
Aphorisms to live by: Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement.? SEMPER GUMBY!
On Friday, July 22, 2022 at 08:30:44 PM CDT, William Macy via groups.io <wkmacy@...> wrote:
Greetings all.
I am in the process of converting my SL to a 24 dc scooter motor according to instructions and illustrations in the ¡°Photos¡± section. What is unclear to me is determining which are the positive and negative leads from the motor to the power supply. My motor has brown and blue leads. Am I correct is assuming that the brown wire is the ground or negative one? The rest of the wiring is clear to me except where the green ground lead originates. I would think attaching the motor end to the motor or metal mount should work fine.
Regards, Bill
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Re: A slight diversion from chuck issues: 24v DC motor wire code
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Re: A slight diversion from chuck issues: 24v DC motor wire code
Negative is brown and? blue is positive.?
https://electricalfundablog.com/wiring-color-codes-us. Covers most of the current wiring codes for the world.?
Bill in OKC?
https://electricalfundablog.com/wiring-color-codes-us
William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)
Aphorisms to live by: Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement.? SEMPER GUMBY!
On Friday, July 22, 2022 at 08:30:44 PM CDT, William Macy via groups.io <wkmacy@...> wrote:
Greetings all.
I am in the process of converting my SL to a 24 dc scooter motor according to instructions and illustrations in the ¡°Photos¡± section. What is unclear to me is determining which are the positive and negative leads from the motor to the power supply. My motor has brown and blue leads. Am I correct is assuming that the brown wire is the ground or negative one? The rest of the wiring is clear to me except where the green ground lead originates. I would think attaching the motor end to the motor or metal mount should work fine.
Regards, Bill
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Re: A slight diversion from chuck issues: 24v DC motor wire code
Just temporarily hook the wires up the way you think they should go, if it the motor runs backwards reverse the wires.
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A slight diversion from chuck issues: 24v DC motor wire code
Greetings all.
I am in the process of converting my SL to a 24 dc scooter motor according to instructions and illustrations in the ¡°Photos¡± section. What is unclear to me is determining which are the positive and negative leads from the motor to the power supply. My motor has brown and blue leads. Am I correct is assuming that the brown wire is the ground or negative one? The rest of the wiring is clear to me except where the green ground lead originates. I would think attaching the motor end to the motor or metal mount should work fine.
Regards, Bill
|
Re: Overall Performance of Unimat 3
Peter,
Does the hand crank threading attachment use thread masters or a lead screw and gearing to establish the lead such as an engine lathe would use? Just trying to understand.
Dick
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Re: Unimat 3 alignment/levelling
Hello:
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On Fri, Jul 22, 2022 at 01:57 AM, Keith S. Angus wrote:
... a difference in diameter of about 0.005 mm, I would estimate, maybe as much as 0.007.
I see.
... centres are out of line by 0.0035 mm, which would be good enough ... ... work consistently to 0.01 mm on any machine you will be doing well.
Good to know. One thing less then.? 8^) I am pleasantly surprised that this turned out so well. Did not expect such a good result. On Thu, Jul 21, 2022 at 09:40 PM, @juliushenrymarx wrote:
... set up the dial gauge on the carriage tomorrow and see what readings I get.
Done that early today. Here are the results. Readings were taken at extremes separated ~120mm. and then another one @ ~60mm. from each. Bad lighting and parallax will play tricks but the readings are these. The first reading was the one furthest from the headstock, where the dial was set at nought. R1:  R2: roughly half way to the first 0.01 mark  R3: at the first 0.01 mark.  Seems consistent with your observations, more so when I suspect that mounting the dial gauge on the cross slide may not be the best method to check readings taken with a micrometer, more so when carrier/cross slide gibs need to be replaced. I say this because moving the carrier towards the headstock caused the pointer to move forward (ie: +) and doing so in the opposite direction had the inverse effect. A question if I may: I'll have to unmount the U3 from the board further on to finish the adjustment plates and redo the carrier gibs. Do I have to do all this again or can I use this same rod to check alignment? Thanks for your input. Best, JHM
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Re: Overall Performance of Unimat 3
I use mine all the time for small stuff, and it does well, I use the hand crank threading option, this works very well for metric screw threads down to 0.5mm pitch (not dared try anything smaller)
Get
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Overall Performance of Unimat 3
I have no first hand experience with the Unimat 3. Is it considered a good performing lathe over all?
How well does it perform at threading?
Does it use thread masters for threading or is a quick change gear box available?
Dick
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Re: Unimat 3 alignment/levelling
You have a difference in diameter of about 0.005 mm, I would estimate, maybe as much as 0.007. That would mean your centres are out of line by 0.0035 mm, which would be good enough for most work! If you can work consistently to 0.01 mm on any machine you will be doing well. I believe the tailstock on my U3 is out by much more than this, but it has never prevented me from working to quite high precision.
?
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Re: Unimat 3 alignment/levelling
Hello:
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On Mon, Jul 18, 2022 at 03:09 PM, Elliot Nesterman wrote:
... when you've turned the rod to a perfect cylinder ...?
I believe I am almost or maybe already there. I went to my usual? supplier of ferrous materials and fetched myself a pair of 160mm lengths of 19mm SAE1010 drawn steel to work with. The lack of the proper set of center drill bits took me to a dark path ... 
But I eventually managed to get things properly sorted out at both ends and my new dog was able to do its thing. One thing I learned is that carbide, steel and the U3 with its 95W motor is a bad combination. So I went ahead, sharpened the old one and only 6x6 HSS bit I had at hand to what seemed to be the best shape and ...? success.  After a good number of very fine passes, I was able to cover the whole surface of the rod with a new smooth finish with no traces of the original one.  And then came the moment of truth. How cylindrical is the piece I have turned? Will I have to apply torsion to the U3 to correct any discrepancy? I took out my old Mauser MM and took readings at both ends. Haven't used it in a while and is in need of cleaning/adjustment but for this task it should do well enough. Reading #1 - right side -> 19.295 mm (no vernier in this old thing, just a guess)  Reading #2 - left side?? -> 19.290 mm  This is a metric 25mm x 0.01 micrometer. The readings were taken (twice) ~150 mm apart and in reasonably good lighting. Provided the readings were correctly taken, is this a reasonable/acceptable outcome? I'll try to set up the dial gauge on the carriage tomorrow and see what readings I get. Thanks in advance. Best, JHM
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Re: Unimat 3 alignment/levelling
Hello:
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On Mon, Jul 18, 2022 at 11:36 PM, John Hutnick wrote:
This may be of interest ...
Indeed it is. Thanks a lot for your input. Best, JHM
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On Mon, Jul 18, 2022 at 05:17 PM, cornelius mcgillicuddy wrote:
anyone who has gone through this observation about how "off" the unimat three jaw chuck is usually arrived there by doing all the usual steps. and while the machine is an engineering marvel and generally super accurate, the three jaw chuck is crap. that should be the first question when this arises.?
?
"did you know that the three jaw chuck sucks?"
I don't agree - I've never noticed any particular problems with the Unimat chucks. The three jaw on my old SL had a runout of about 0.003". On two other SLs I have used the chucks were good enough to never cause any problems. In general machine shops doing odd jobs for industry 0.005" was common and not regarded as a problem. The chuck on my U3, which does not have a back-plate, runs and out at about 0.0005". Good enough to equal some collets. Everyone knows (don't they?) that a self centring chuck is not a high precision device, but is adequate for a great deal of work. I have rarely seen collets used in a general engineering workshop. Soft jaws are the next step on from a general purpose chuck, and can be more versatile than collets. I have often wanted soft jaws for the Unimat, and have notions of setting up to make them one day - maybe.
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Re: Unimat 3 4-jaw options
Made the same screwdriver at Monroe High School back in the late 60s. Also made a hacksaw with a cast aluminum handle.
Hello:
On Wed, Jul 20, 2022 at 12:40 PM, <evlenarz@...> wrote:
Congratulations ...
Thank you.?
Same feeling I got when I made my first lathe project in school @13.
A screwdriver with a knurled solid aluminium handle and a blade I made, shaped and tempered all by myself.
Best,
JHM
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Re: Unimat 3 4-jaw options
Hello:
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On Wed, Jul 20, 2022 at 12:55 PM, Bill in OKC too wrote:
Check for one of these?
Yes, I have read good comments about Actools. It would seem that the one they sell comes from the same Indian OEM that manufactures both the ones sells in the UK and the one I linked to previously. As their prices seem to vary by small amounts, my guess is that any difference would be in QC by the retailer. Thanks for your input. Best, JHM
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OldToolmaker
Bill in OKC too