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I own both, and for what I want (small scale model railway work) the U3 is a much better machine.It's more rigid (and therefore better for parting off and using forming tools), it has a bigger spindle

The U3 bed will definitely be stiffer.? Of course, rigidity by the time you get to where the tool point meets the work piece also depends on other things, like quality of the slide(s) tool post,

I have been really pleased with the work I have done on my DB / SL mostly brass but some steel as well and not so long ago a U3 came up for sale (owner deceased) on a wood forum I am on and I

I imagine that depends on who you ask and what you want to do with it. I've never used a DB/SL but I'm very happy with my U3 and wouldn't swap it for a DB/SL as they look intrinsically less robust and

Looks to me that a U3 would be a bit more stiff than the DB or SL, but I've seen so much very well made stuff built on a DB or SL that I'd hate to state it as a fact. I've not actually gotten to used

Opinions Please What is a better choice, Unimat 3 or DB/SL? Dick -- http://www.homemadetools.net/ forum/ OFF- SET-tailstock-center-65965#post105972 http://www.homemadetools.net/

James, As I said earlier, I can power tap through holes using ?the Unimat in a vertical mode similar to a drill press and very slows rpm , watch very carefully and stop then reverse rotation while

Many thanks, Scott and apologies for the delayed reply - for some reason your message ended up in my spam box so I only found it today. Cheers,

If anyone is interested, the lathe went for $501.00.

John if it doesn’t sound useful. Don’t use it. there are times in the shop when it saved a lot of time, but I couldn’t relate to you exactly what that occasion was because it was probably 15

For myself, I would not attempt this. Most likely, I would end up with a scratched surface or a crappy cut. Since a finishing cut is still needed with a regular lathe tool, I fail to see the

You scribe a line with a tool tip, in woodworking called a knife wall. then use saw laying slightly to the wasteage side. then finish using normal cutting bit and facing the part… speed of rotation

Using just a saw blade hand held, how can you make a cut in the exact right spot?? My hands are not accurate to one thousandth.? And what sort of finish do you get on the cut off face?

Hi Herman. no tool post. i’ve done it with lathe spinning and just reach over top with saw holding at front (toe) and (heel) handle and apply modest down pressure. usually I started at toe of saw

Thanks for sharing your experience, Pat! Just wondering now about the rocker for the lantern tool post - would a half moon wedge do perhaps? These can be found in various sizes. Verzonden vanuit

When I cut some vee groove pulleys for a larger lathe, on a big Colchester, I cut a central groove first, and then went in with a vee tool, cutting the sides only. This meant zero top rake for

We had an SL1000 at work in the I&C shop for making bushings etc.? ?It had the standard tool holder, as well as two Lantern type tool posts, one plane jane and one rocker.? ?I have used both and

I have a Unimat cutoff tool holder, I also picked up one from Micro Mark that fits.? I found blades at Harbor Freight that can be used in the standard Unimat tool post with a shim under.? ?The HF

First of all, I only power tap through holes, never bottom tap. I reverse the spindle and back the tap out under power slowly. I hope this explains the process. It works very

Thanks for the photo, Peter, I will try this on my Unimat then. The G-clamp is cut, I will try and see if one of my machinist’s clamps fits. Thins up, Herman Verzonden vanuit Outlook voor iOS