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"Train related" and " not generally interested in Machine Shop stuff" Makes me wonder if this was either posted to the wrong group or is SPAM. -- Jim Korman

Hi Gang: Hand held tools are traditional for wood turning, and can be quite fun. Production work is done with fixed tools similar to metal lathes. When I want to turn some dowels to a smaller diameter

I sharpen bits because I want to make lots of stuff, and not have to keep buying tooling. I can make and remake tooling in HSS for as little as a couple of dollars in initial investment, and keep it

I got your original message just fine with inline images. Your folow up message had html gobbledygook where the images should have been. Back to the actual topic... I've used a lot worse than that

You can hone them with a fine grain silicon carbide hone, sharpening stone, or slip stone. You can also use diamond hones. It will mess up the indexing capabilities, but that's not so significant for

For wood turning, I would degrease the screw thread and bed with solvent, blow dry, oil again later. When I am using the milling machine for plastics, I hold the tip of the shop vac right next to the

I guess I can't copy/paste images that way. (sorry about the mess!)

Lex, The replaceable tipped tool inserts are carbide, but low quality carbide so probably not very sharp. Whether sharp or not, they are "scraping tools" rather than "shearer tools" and they will

Two different lathes all right - both look to be utter rubbish. Take a good look at the saddle of the 'round head' machine. The best part of either m/c is the flat bottom rail used as a bed! paul B.,

these are not carbide, they have what seems to be HSS inserts (could also be cheap metal for the price) here is the photos of the tooling I got, its what I could find to have a bit of a range with

Definitely not a lathe to pop out on the kitchen table on a winter evening. I hope he didn’t cut the bed out from a running line one dark night! I’m sure it’s very rigid but 120lbs to the yard

If by "inert tools", do you mean carbide?? I wouldn't use carbide on the unimat, and certainly not for wood.? Ok, maybe, but I would grind them myself, so that they were actually sharp, like one

The photo is at a bad angle, it is parallel. I also put a punch mark where the indicator meets the carriage so it will not slip off or move.

** photos added ** The 2nd version of the RapidDrive is a vast improvement and I recommend it to anybody who might try to use a Unimat for multiples that requires a lot of handwheel spinning. It's

The 2nd version of the RapidDrive is a vast improvement and I recommend it to anybody who might try to use a Unimat for multiples that requires a lot of handwheel spinning. It's nothing more than a

Hello: Indeed ... The device is very ingenious, thanks for posting that.? 8^) Best, JHM

Understood ! It was threading that started me doing all of the modifications. But along the way I have a nice mechanism to control backlash on the lead screw….which was what I wanted to share. Good

Hello: Yes. I'm still waiting for my M8x1 LH tap which would seem to have been lost in the mail. Now I get it. I have both the thread cutting gears (150 250) and the lathe threading attachment (150

Please consider making the shaft of the indicator parallel to the bed.? Otherwise the end of a 2" travel indicator might miss the end of the carriage. Re the use of a tire gauge, a 2" indicator can

Kevin that is neat using a tire tread depth gauge.?After looking at the aluminum one, that might be a great project to start on once I get the Unimat in tip-top shape, I can already envision how I