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I have the original DBSL dividing attachment with 3 dividing wheels or gears. There is no good way of knowing what space or notch I am in as I can’t see the notch. I think this makes it very hard to

Hi Gang: Two formula for deflection: L = length A = area ??? a = interior area D = depth ??? d = interior depth w = load First a solid rod = w*L? / 24*A*D? Second a hollow tube = w*L? /

I don't know if they used "centerless grinding" to make the rods.? But there is a good chance they did.? It is also more efficient if making large number of parts.? No mounting of the part between

I believe that weight for weight tubes are stronger than solid rods but not diameter for diameter

This kind of discussion causes me to imagine that there’s an obscure office in a long forgotten basement in an old NASA or Dept of Defence building somewhere, where someone is drafting the MilSpec

Carl, I have two small precision grinding vises, one smaller and one larger. I use them on my Unimat. They work nicely on the little Unimat and much better than the Unimat vise. --

Good Find Bruno! Those are nice precision vices, the type I've used for grinding small parts. Much nicer than the Unimat vice. Nice looking blacken adapter. I would add some more mounting holes so you

We went through this some time ago in great detail - or at least I did. Hardening steel does not make it stiffer, which is what we want for a lathe bed. It raises the yield point, at which the steel

I've been looking for a long time to find a scrubbing stick for my little Unimat. Either the parts on offer are totally rotten or outrageously expensive. I looked around for an alternative and found a

Ground & finished Drill rod, or "silver steel" that I do not believe was hardened to any degree? Not sure of the alloy used either? I'm very curious though if anyone has more info ?

A tube of the same mass as a solid rod is stiffer, but it will have a larger diameter.? For the same diameter, a rod is stiffer than a tube.? And since the rod has more mass than a same diameter

Am I right in thinking that tubes are stiffer than solid rods? I have a U3 (so don’t know) but do folks swap out the solid rods for tubes, maybe made from some exotic extra-stiff material? Getting

Charles, the DB & SL do not use tubular beds but use solid round steel bar. -- http://www.homemadetools.net/ forum/ OFF- SET-tailstock-center-65965#post105972 http://www.homemadetools.net/

Well said Chuck, ? ? ? ?The "Bar Bed" element of the DB/SL design will forever be their Achilles heel. ?That said, they are worth their weight if they inspire the learning of how and why.

I own both, and for what I want (small scale model railway work) the U3 is a much better machine.It's more rigid (and therefore better for parting off and using forming tools), it has a bigger spindle

The U3 bed will definitely be stiffer.? Of course, rigidity by the time you get to where the tool point meets the work piece also depends on other things, like quality of the slide(s) tool post,

I have been really pleased with the work I have done on my DB / SL mostly brass but some steel as well and not so long ago a U3 came up for sale (owner deceased) on a wood forum I am on and I

I imagine that depends on who you ask and what you want to do with it. I've never used a DB/SL but I'm very happy with my U3 and wouldn't swap it for a DB/SL as they look intrinsically less robust and

Looks to me that a U3 would be a bit more stiff than the DB or SL, but I've seen so much very well made stuff built on a DB or SL that I'd hate to state it as a fact. I've not actually gotten to used

Opinions Please What is a better choice, Unimat 3 or DB/SL? Dick -- http://www.homemadetools.net/ forum/ OFF- SET-tailstock-center-65965#post105972 http://www.homemadetools.net/