I wanted an easy way to pick up magnetic cuttings from saw, grinder, lathe, etc. It can be small since it is going to be used with the Unimat and at my little work bench. Inspired by a LONG one I saw someone had made, I came up with this:  To use:? Pick up the magnetic bits, hold the thing over the disposal spot and pull the cap. Done. Everything falls off the tip of the pen.? You need: - an old pen (or a new one you don¡¯t like) - a bit of wooden stick, or plastic or whatever? - strong, tiny magnets - a bit of glue, I used hot glue The pen was gutted, the magnets glued to the stick and the stick glued in the cap.? As you can see, the thing has plenty of strength, and will hang from some convenient spot, like a steel pegboard hook.? Make one!
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Learning is the best part I may one day know as much as I thought I did¡? Not that I have made a lot of structural prints but On those I have, 6 to 8 perimeters and 50% gyroid? fill has been workable for me.? Early reading I did on the
subject, indicated not much gain in strength over that.?? The warpage is lessened by time on task and raising bed temp some to minimize temp differential of first layer and last.
I¡¯m looking forward to see the finished product.
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I¡¯ve been proto typing it seems like a lot lately, playing with fusion 360 modeled threads.? I can put proto types together with real bolts.? I am surprised at the strength.? I haven¡¯t put one to use yet, but I am tempted by what I see
and feel.
?
Happy Making
?
BAR
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Sent from for Windows
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From: Nevadablue <nevadablue@...>
Sent: Sunday, March 24, 2024 9:52:12 AM
To: Bruce Rohde <barohde@...>; [email protected] <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: [Unimat] Machining 3d prints
?
Thanks Bruce. Yes, the intent with these parts was to use them as printed, with addition of inserted threads. But, this is the first time I¡¯ve tried such thick and dense prints and both had serious warping on the bottom. PLA+ seems to be more likely to
do this on my printers. I¡¯m learning, I hope and the next attempts may be better. Learning is something I love to do, so I decided to try to machine the parts into something useful. I think it will work.?
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Re: unimat 3d model project
I really don¡¯t like the way github works, but I think you are on the right track. I¡¯ve been collecting 3D Unimat stuff as I find it. There are models of the tailstock and other parts available. I just searched the various sites for ¡®unimat¡¯ and some generic terms like ¡®vise¡¯ to turn up existing stuff.?
Keep us posted with your progress, hope it works out. I¡¯ve been looking for the standard Unimat tool post (the block) and so far all I have found is a drawing. That is good enough for that part though, it is so simple.?
There are dial indicator holders of several varieties out there too.?
Good Luck!
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Thanks Bruce. Yes, the intent with these parts was to use them as printed, with addition of inserted threads. But, this is the first time I¡¯ve tried such thick and dense prints and both had serious warping on the bottom. PLA+ seems to be more likely to do this on my printers. I¡¯m learning, I hope and the next attempts may be better. Learning is something I love to do, so I decided to try to machine the parts into something useful. I think it will work.?
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Hi
I get all my paint (RAL Series) from our local scrap yard / auto parts store in Exeter.?
They have a machine that tells you what the colour is with in the RAL Range they then can mix the paint up to the closest RAL colour,
That did this for my compact 5 (yellow) same price as Halfords but a lot more paint for your money ?????
You cannot see the difference between the new and the old paint?
I am repainting my SL but not crickle paint,
And I am going to get a paint match (smooth)
Some form of green ish?
Hope this is helpful
Regards
Byron
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On 24 Mar 2024, at 00:30, Frank In PA <polliof@...> wrote:
?Thank You for all of the replies.? I found a site that shows RAL paint colors. It seems that the 7047 gray may be too dark, but it is an image of it. There are some possibilities in their white category that look close.? ?We still have an automotive
paint store here that handles PPG paints. I probably should have gone there at first but was looking for some kind of common off the shelf substitute.? Not that big of a deal. The paint store does offer custom mixed spray cans. If it works out, I will post
the price and results of it.?
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Not that all jobs have multiple solutions, I thought that the benifit of addative machining was to achieve usable parts right off the machine, minimal finishing required, so why not print the final shape?? Second thought is there are better machinable plastics than pla if you are starting with a solid block of material.? Having said that using what ya got is always a good idea.
Happy making chips!!!
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Hi, I just joined the group recently.? Also pretty new to the unimat stuff but I'm already enjoying this lil machine (db200/sl1000).?
I noticed some of the accessories are pretty hard to find and pricey and it made me think, why not get everything all modeled up and ready to make from scratch when/if necessary.?
Has anyone started a similar project already?? I searched the group and found a couple conversations that were similar in topic, but none lead me to a link to any actual models.? Apologies if I missed one somewhere.?
If no, anyone interested in working on it with me?? I was thinking like a github repo or something with step files of everything. I don't have all of the accessories (yet) but I'm going to start modeling up everything I have soon.?
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Thank You for all of the replies.? I found a site that shows RAL paint colors. It seems that the 7047 gray may be too dark, but it is an image of it. There are some possibilities in their white category that look close.? ?We still have an automotive paint store here that handles PPG paints. I probably should have gone there at first but was looking for some kind of common off the shelf substitute.? Not that big of a deal. The paint store does offer custom mixed spray cans. If it works out, I will post the price and results of it.?
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I have inserts planned for some places and a test of a long through hole, threaded M8x1 left handed for the lead screw. We will see. The proper tap is due here Monday. I hope it works¡ this is what I¡¯m making.? It was intended to be a compound rest for the Unimat, but I think it is too tall. I will finish it, maybe it will be useful for something else. Also, I am working on a built in QCTP version.?  I need to finish this one to prove it works, then print this top piece.? 
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Someone on facebook said "RAL 7047? - Telegrey4"
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Good work? PLA+ machines nicely. Threads OK if you dont need strength.
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@clankennedy2004?
I¡¯m not sure what you are talking about. I don¡¯t want a wooden compound rest for anything, but I do think that PLA+ will make a good one for this application. And, I¡¯m not worried about microplastics. Too much worry about nonsense. I guess you comment was just a space filler.
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Sorry but i cant help but think we sometimes try to reinvent the wheel ! Block of wood. Drill some holes. Not sure but might have done the same job ! Also would have prevented the release of more microplastics into the environment, wormy or not ! :/
Just Sayin :/
On Saturday, 23 March 2024 at 21:02:03 GMT, John Entwistle via groups.io <jentwistle3@...> wrote:
Woo hoo, the Unimat comes through!
On Mar 23, 2024, at 4:51?PM, Nevadablue <nevadablue@...> wrote: ?I made a couple of items from PLA+ and of course got warping on the bottom of them. That caused me to dig out my poor old neglected Unimat. After finding enough parts to be able to use the mill, and fiddling with setup, I have successfully machined the plastic. These parts are solid, 8 walls, 6 top and bottom layers and 100% infill.? There are lines on the surface, small and insignificant for this project. The mill head is good side to side but slightly off from front to back. The only way I know to fix that is by using a tiny shim under the mill base. This is the column mounted mill that is independent from the lathe bed.? I used a solid carbide end mill. The ¡®chips¡¯ are fuzz and ¡®worms¡¯. No melting, just sticking together made the worms. Easy cleanup.? <IMG_5462.jpeg> And with the fuzz wiped off the part: <IMG_5463.jpeg>
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Woo hoo, the Unimat comes through!
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On Mar 23, 2024, at 4:51?PM, Nevadablue <nevadablue@...> wrote: ?I made a couple of items from PLA+ and of course got warping on the bottom of them. That caused me to dig out my poor old neglected Unimat. After finding enough parts to be able to use the mill, and fiddling with setup, I have successfully machined the plastic. These parts are solid, 8 walls, 6 top and bottom layers and 100% infill.? There are lines on the surface, small and insignificant for this project. The mill head is good side to side but slightly off from front to back. The only way I know to fix that is by using a tiny shim under the mill base. This is the column mounted mill that is independent from the lathe bed.? I used a solid carbide end mill. The ¡®chips¡¯ are fuzz and ¡®worms¡¯. No melting, just sticking together made the worms. Easy cleanup.? <IMG_5462.jpeg> And with the fuzz wiped off the part: <IMG_5463.jpeg>
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Testing the draft message functionality
This is a test. Line one, go to draft¡ and, by clicking outside the message or back on ¡®messages¡¯, the system saves a draft, which CAN be edited. third edit¡ over and over, help file says this will last for 2 weeks. This should be the way I always post because I always want to edit. happy I am¡?  And it saves images and all, test successful. now press send and you can no longer edit it.?
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I made a couple of items from PLA+ and of course got warping on the bottom of them. That caused me to dig out my poor old neglected Unimat. After finding enough parts to be able to use the mill, and fiddling with setup, I have successfully machined the plastic. These parts are solid, 8 walls, 6 top and bottom layers and 100% infill.? There are lines on the surface, small and insignificant for this project. The mill head is good side to side but slightly off from front to back. The only way I know to fix that is by using a tiny shim under the mill base. This is the column mounted mill that is independent from the lathe bed.? I used a solid carbide end mill. The ¡®chips¡¯ are fuzz and ¡®worms¡¯. No melting, just sticking together made the worms. Easy cleanup.?  And with the fuzz wiped off the part: 
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Yes, paint spray cans seem to be more common in the UK than the US.
But the question is: what is the standard color code for the Unimat 3?
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In the UK go go your local automotive paying supplier and look at RAL
codes (German standard colours) I beg you will find a match and they
will then be able to supply a rattle can.
Nick
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John Entwistle