Re: DIY magnetic pickup tool
Mehmood:
Get the one
that works for aluminum too. I think they are the same price.
Carl.
On 3/24/2024 6:47 PM, Mehmood via
groups.io wrote:
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I could really use one that works for brass chips. ? I’ll have a
look this time next week.
?I wanted an easy way to pick up magnetic
cuttings from saw, grinder, lathe, etc. It can be small
since it is going to be used with the Unimat and at my
little work bench. Inspired by a LONG one I saw someone had
made, I came up with this:
<IMG_5492.jpeg>
To use:?
Pick up the magnetic bits, hold the thing over the disposal
spot and pull the cap. Done. Everything falls off the tip of
the pen.?
You need:
- an old pen (or a new one you don’t like)
- a bit of wooden stick, or plastic or whatever?
- strong, tiny magnets
- a bit of glue, I used hot glue
The pen was gutted, the magnets glued to the stick and the
stick glued in the cap.?
As you can see, the thing has plenty of strength, and will
hang from some convenient spot, like a steel pegboard hook.?
Make one!
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Re: DIY magnetic pickup tool
I could really use one that works for brass chips. ? I’ll have a look this time next week.
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On 24 Mar 2024, at 18:48, Nevadablue <nevadablue@...> wrote:
?I wanted an easy way to pick up magnetic cuttings from saw, grinder, lathe, etc. It can be small since it is going to be used with the Unimat and at my little work bench. Inspired by a LONG one I saw someone had made, I came up with this: <IMG_5492.jpeg> To use:? Pick up the magnetic bits, hold the thing over the disposal spot and pull the cap. Done. Everything falls off the tip of the pen.? You need: - an old pen (or a new one you don’t like) - a bit of wooden stick, or plastic or whatever? - strong, tiny magnets - a bit of glue, I used hot glue The pen was gutted, the magnets glued to the stick and the stick glued in the cap.? As you can see, the thing has plenty of strength, and will hang from some convenient spot, like a steel pegboard hook.? Make one!
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Re: unimat 3d model project
Yea I use 3d printing a lot in the shop.? I just realized how I phrased my post and left out that one of the reasons I wanted to see models of the OEM unimat stuff is I use that a lot on my sherline machines, not always to make a clone of something they make, but for building my own accessories off of.? It can be pretty handy and sherline does a decent job at having models of a lot of their things.?
I'm probably going to get started this week.? I figure as long as I nail the critical dimensions, holes, machined surfaces etc, there's some flexibility in the body/painted surfaces since they're casts.
Now I'm off to search thingiverse, for some reason I didn't think to look there for unimat things haha
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Hello
Nevadablue:
Try OnShape:
It is similar
to SolidWorks, I like the dimension driven models. You can
either print 3D or paper.
Carl.
On 3/24/2024 2:54 PM, Nevadablue wrote:
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I’m jealous of
folks who can drive a real CAD program. My old brain struggles
with Tinkercad, but I have loaded a few CAD programs on my laptop
and am slowly attempting to learn. It probably isn’t necessary,
but fun to try.?
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Re: unimat 3d model project
I just spent quite a bit of time on thingiverse perusing the results of searching for ‘machinist’. All kinds of goodies. I’ve learned to snag anything that looks remotely useful since there are parts that can be used on other things usually.?
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Re: unimat 3d model project
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On Mar 24, 2024, at 8:56?AM, Nevadablue <nevadablue@...> wrote:
?I really don’t like the way github works, but I think you are on the right track. I’ve been collecting 3D Unimat stuff as I find it. There are models of the tailstock and other parts available. I just searched the various sites for ‘unimat’ and some generic terms like ‘vise’ to turn up existing stuff.?
Keep us posted with your progress, hope it works out. I’ve been looking for the standard Unimat tool post (the block) and so far all I have found is a drawing. That is good enough for that part though, it is so simple.?
There are dial indicator holders of several varieties out there too.?
Good Luck!
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Thanks again. I will probably drop the infill on some projects but I wanted to try this to see how it works. This was printed on a Kobra and I’ve had good results with regular PLA on that machine, but no testing of the density I printed this one at. I will try raising the bed temp a couple of degrees for the PLA+.?
I’m jealous of folks who can drive a real CAD program. My old brain struggles with Tinkercad, but I have loaded a few CAD programs on my laptop and am slowly attempting to learn. It probably isn’t necessary, but fun to try.?
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I wanted an easy way to pick up magnetic cuttings from saw, grinder, lathe, etc. It can be small since it is going to be used with the Unimat and at my little work bench. Inspired by a LONG one I saw someone had made, I came up with this:  To use:? Pick up the magnetic bits, hold the thing over the disposal spot and pull the cap. Done. Everything falls off the tip of the pen.? You need: - an old pen (or a new one you don’t like) - a bit of wooden stick, or plastic or whatever? - strong, tiny magnets - a bit of glue, I used hot glue The pen was gutted, the magnets glued to the stick and the stick glued in the cap.? As you can see, the thing has plenty of strength, and will hang from some convenient spot, like a steel pegboard hook.? Make one!
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Learning is the best part I may one day know as much as I thought I did…? Not that I have made a lot of structural prints but On those I have, 6 to 8 perimeters and 50% gyroid? fill has been workable for me.? Early reading I did on the
subject, indicated not much gain in strength over that.?? The warpage is lessened by time on task and raising bed temp some to minimize temp differential of first layer and last.
I’m looking forward to see the finished product.
?
I’ve been proto typing it seems like a lot lately, playing with fusion 360 modeled threads.? I can put proto types together with real bolts.? I am surprised at the strength.? I haven’t put one to use yet, but I am tempted by what I see
and feel.
?
Happy Making
?
BAR
?
Sent from for Windows
?
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From: Nevadablue <nevadablue@...>
Sent: Sunday, March 24, 2024 9:52:12 AM
To: Bruce Rohde <barohde@...>; [email protected] <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: [Unimat] Machining 3d prints
?
Thanks Bruce. Yes, the intent with these parts was to use them as printed, with addition of inserted threads. But, this is the first time I’ve tried such thick and dense prints and both had serious warping on the bottom. PLA+ seems to be more likely to
do this on my printers. I’m learning, I hope and the next attempts may be better. Learning is something I love to do, so I decided to try to machine the parts into something useful. I think it will work.?
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Re: unimat 3d model project
I really don’t like the way github works, but I think you are on the right track. I’ve been collecting 3D Unimat stuff as I find it. There are models of the tailstock and other parts available. I just searched the various sites for ‘unimat’ and some generic terms like ‘vise’ to turn up existing stuff.?
Keep us posted with your progress, hope it works out. I’ve been looking for the standard Unimat tool post (the block) and so far all I have found is a drawing. That is good enough for that part though, it is so simple.?
There are dial indicator holders of several varieties out there too.?
Good Luck!
|
Thanks Bruce. Yes, the intent with these parts was to use them as printed, with addition of inserted threads. But, this is the first time I’ve tried such thick and dense prints and both had serious warping on the bottom. PLA+ seems to be more likely to do this on my printers. I’m learning, I hope and the next attempts may be better. Learning is something I love to do, so I decided to try to machine the parts into something useful. I think it will work.?
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Hi
I get all my paint (RAL Series) from our local scrap yard / auto parts store in Exeter.?
They have a machine that tells you what the colour is with in the RAL Range they then can mix the paint up to the closest RAL colour,
That did this for my compact 5 (yellow) same price as Halfords but a lot more paint for your money ?????
You cannot see the difference between the new and the old paint?
I am repainting my SL but not crickle paint,
And I am going to get a paint match (smooth)
Some form of green ish?
Hope this is helpful
Regards
Byron
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On 24 Mar 2024, at 00:30, Frank In PA <polliof@...> wrote:
?Thank You for all of the replies.? I found a site that shows RAL paint colors. It seems that the 7047 gray may be too dark, but it is an image of it. There are some possibilities in their white category that look close.? ?We still have an automotive
paint store here that handles PPG paints. I probably should have gone there at first but was looking for some kind of common off the shelf substitute.? Not that big of a deal. The paint store does offer custom mixed spray cans. If it works out, I will post
the price and results of it.?
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Not that all jobs have multiple solutions, I thought that the benifit of addative machining was to achieve usable parts right off the machine, minimal finishing required, so why not print the final shape?? Second thought is there are better machinable plastics than pla if you are starting with a solid block of material.? Having said that using what ya got is always a good idea.
Happy making chips!!!
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Hi, I just joined the group recently.? Also pretty new to the unimat stuff but I'm already enjoying this lil machine (db200/sl1000).?
I noticed some of the accessories are pretty hard to find and pricey and it made me think, why not get everything all modeled up and ready to make from scratch when/if necessary.?
Has anyone started a similar project already?? I searched the group and found a couple conversations that were similar in topic, but none lead me to a link to any actual models.? Apologies if I missed one somewhere.?
If no, anyone interested in working on it with me?? I was thinking like a github repo or something with step files of everything. I don't have all of the accessories (yet) but I'm going to start modeling up everything I have soon.?
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Thank You for all of the replies.? I found a site that shows RAL paint colors. It seems that the 7047 gray may be too dark, but it is an image of it. There are some possibilities in their white category that look close.? ?We still have an automotive paint store here that handles PPG paints. I probably should have gone there at first but was looking for some kind of common off the shelf substitute.? Not that big of a deal. The paint store does offer custom mixed spray cans. If it works out, I will post the price and results of it.?
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I have inserts planned for some places and a test of a long through hole, threaded M8x1 left handed for the lead screw. We will see. The proper tap is due here Monday. I hope it works… this is what I’m making.? It was intended to be a compound rest for the Unimat, but I think it is too tall. I will finish it, maybe it will be useful for something else. Also, I am working on a built in QCTP version.?  I need to finish this one to prove it works, then print this top piece.? 
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Someone on facebook said "RAL 7047? - Telegrey4"
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Good work? PLA+ machines nicely. Threads OK if you dont need strength.
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@clankennedy2004?
I’m not sure what you are talking about. I don’t want a wooden compound rest for anything, but I do think that PLA+ will make a good one for this application. And, I’m not worried about microplastics. Too much worry about nonsense. I guess you comment was just a space filler.
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Carl