I've used a couple of different reinforcing methods on parts that seem to be a little on the sketchy side strength-wise.

I've printed holes in the part and then just pressed metal pins into the holes.? I always have to print a hole about 0.2mm oversized to get a sliding fit, so I just print the hole to the specified size and then press either a brass or music wire pin into the hole as re-bar.

I've also used M3 button head screws for reinforcement.? I don't trust threading a 3d printed part, especially for M3 or smaller threads, so I either use inserts or captive nuts.? With a little planning and CAD work you can use standard length M3 screws, and have both the head of the screw and the nut in pockets below the final surface of the part.? A little CA glue, or Loctite, on the threads and that screw is not coming out.

This is just a toy for me, so no metal printing for sure. I can buy a metal Unimat 3 part for about 50 bucks.?

What you say Don is true. I intend to use this as the ‘production’ part. That is, plastic, so I should look at some sort of reinforcement there. I am skeptical about it too. I’ll look at reinforcement ideas. The plan is to use 8 walls and 100% infill so it will be strong, but reinforcement with metal would be good. Maybe threaded through holes with metal screws in them. Thinking…?

Of all things, I have the machine ready to use and can’t find the darn tool holders for the QCTP! I’ve been through everything, no luck. They don’t make the one I have either that I can tell. It is smaller than a 0XA. So I ordered a 0XA which should work. They are cheap on Amazon.?

You can test your concept and send it out to be printed in metal.? I've looked at sending stuff out to be printed (in metal) and then stop myself...
I eventually come to my senses when I see the price.? However, if we sought to print in qty, perhaps the price is moderated.

Tamra

Nevadablue:

Are you going to be printing these with a filament printer, or a resin printer?? If it's a filament printer, you might want to think about some reinforcement? for the female half of the dovetails, maybe some through bolts?? Filament prints tend to fail along the layer-lines when they are stressed, and those narrow areas are where they will most likely fail.? An ounce of prevention and all that.

Are you doing this as a proof of concept to see how things look and fit before committing to metal?? Or will this printed compound be the version you actually use?

Don

Thanks for that! I didn’t think of it until I had already ordered the lead screws. I may still get the left hand 8mm. Would be handy for ‘something’.?

It is perfect, thanks a lot!?

I put a file in the Files section called Emco Unimat (1).STL that is the file I used for printing this sign.? Let me know if it doesn't work for you and I can do something else.

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Hi 4square:

Did you order? left handed thread? Right hand will move the carriage opposite of most movements. You will need a LH tap too.

Carl.

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Love the tinker toys

I have made several pulleys for the round belts and they don’t seem to care what the groove shape is. They are ‘grabby’ enough that they just work.?
Hint, don’t use a Deutz diesel engine piston for stock to make pulleys. The most gummy stuff I’ve ever cut. Had to do it in my big lathe and it was a chore. I made this contraption experimenting with motors and stuff.?

This is what I made out of my Basic. It holds a dremel in a modified case from a drill battery. (No pic of that)



I made that after trying all sorts of things to make it work as a lathe. (Grin)

Thanks for reminding me of the boring head option.?

You could also install a Taig tailstock. It is a very nice unit, lots of advantages. Of course the photos loaded in reverse order.?
You have to whittle the bottom of the Taig tailstock as shown, it is aluminum, easy. Then put it together.?

The zip file with the 2 parts (stl files) is tiny, only 68k. I could upload it if anyone wants it. I grab every 3d unimat part I can find. This example gives you the ‘clamping parts) for the ways. Easy way to start making an accessory. Thanks for the heads up on this one.?

James, that’s a 3d print, right? Any chance of getting the .stl file for it?

OK, more scientific head scratching and I think I have the basic parts close to right. Now to wait till Amazon delivers the lead screw. I had ordered a 5mm and changed my mind and have an 8mm coming. The Unimat screws are 8mm so why not. Different thread, but that’s OK, the size is more suitable I think. I did measure my heat inserts so the gib screws and lock screws for the thing will be 3mm with brass inserts. The hole in the base of the rest is sized for the standard Unimat 6mm screw, with the head below the top of the base.?
I hope. Parts due in a week or so.?

Thanks guys! I have a bunch of 1/4” large hole pegboard that has followed me around for years. I decided that this ‘box’ was good for the project. Scrap pieces of 2x2, pegboard and a chunk of scrap plywood and some screws.?
Yes, the space under the bed is for a pan. I will be printing one that fits (the metal one I have now is too long). Found it on thingiverse.?

I am making progress on the compound design. I do NOT know cad so am using Tinkercad and I think I can make it work. Today’s learning was about hole sizing for heat inserts. I want to make the gib screws fit in brass inserts. Now I have to go back to the design and change the hole size.?
Here is what the thing looks like now. I will probably print a test piece when I’m satisfied with the design and fit. The final one will probably be solid, that is multiple walls, top and bottom and 100% infill. I left room for a 2mm gib. 3mm gib screws planned.?

The play in the spindle for watchmakers can be reduced by using suitable shim discs, which are placed either between the outer rings of the angular contact ball bearings (less bearing play) or between the inner rings of the bearings (greater bearing play).
These discs are available in 1/100 mm increments.