开云体育

I forgot to add I looked at adding plastic washers but guessed they might wear in time, I don't like the bent compression washers I think that would introduce some movement, I think by adding a

Hi Dick, I never gave it a thought about making two like you have I just went looking at bearing supplies and found just what I was looking for, it has improved my little lathe 99% I don't have any

On my 7x16 minilathe I made a small ball thrust bearing on the cross slide and was able to remove virtually all back lash on the cross slide of my minilathe. It was made from tiny loose balls in a

Additionally it’ll add friction to a point in the system where you really don’t want additional friction. I find the best thing is to make a small washer out of a piece of plastic shim stock. That

Hi Jeff: The usual method is to take two motors apart and combine the stampings. I have used my Unimat to rewind a small can motor for one of my Lionel trains. I used my Erector set motor to turn the

Hi: The problem with the wave washer is, under a cutter load the side force will collapse the washer and the cutter path won't be straight. Carl.

Hi Gang: To improve the casting is just half of the job, you need to improve the runout on the knob. Both can be corrected with a file. Use some Persian Blue, coat the back of the know and run it up

The hard part would be the layered sheet steel stampings for the armature. You need them for it to work instead machining a solid armature.?Jeff

Hammertone paint used to be considered a very rugged industrial coating that was also oil and solvent resistant.?Jeff

Just to confirm, what is this cross slide nut material?

Perhaps using a curved, or wave, disk spring washer under the handle would give enough pre-load to minimize the backlash. Something similar to one of these: https://www.mcmaster.com/9714k323/

Thanks Alan, I stand corrected (I'm in the US.) Personally I would have preferred a machine gray finish on my DB200 (maybe if I ever have to repaint it) and wonder why the hammertone silver/green was

Thanks for that link! I have ordered everything I need to make my own collet holder - sounds like a fun project! And - the threading technique in the procedure is just genius. Thinking of making a kit

Incidentally I have installed a new lead screw when I rebuilt the lathe. ?So my backlash is in the cross slide.

I've been musing about building a small electric motor from scratch on my Unimat SL.? Just for the fun of it and to learn something new. Seems like a doable project, including using the lathe to

So on the SL the cross slide does not have a “nut“ in it. The Cross light itself is threaded to match the lead screw. So adjusting for wear is hopeless unless one can find a good as new cross

Seems like a common plan. I was buying parts for my recently acquired SL, and suddenly realized I had almost enough parts for a second unit, which I will use as a mill. Adding a DC motor and speed

Thank you everyone for the advice / knowledge sharing! I've realised that for my case, backlash is from both handle assembly (maybe 30% of the backlash) AND cross slide nut (majority of the backlash)

Yeah that completely makes sense, I have a Taig CNC machine that uses the same technology as a Unimat, and I program the backlash compensation into it. When it reads the code it compensates for

Yes John, you don't have to change anything just slide them on the shafts, I don't know where you can get them your side of the pond but this is the place in the UK: 4 pieces AXK0515/AS0515 Budget