Because Emco changed the colors all the time, the only source for the original color sits on the Unimat you want to paint.? If someone already paint a different color on it before, you wil never find out the original color of your specific unimat anyway.
If you want to put an register of original colors together, it only works under controled lightning conditions. That means total manuel control of all camerasettings, total manuel control of all lightning settings and also workingscreen. Otherwise your register is useless as a color reference
Well we always seem to go in a circle and conclude to do nothing.? Someone will say they can get hammered green paint made.? Oh, some nice paint store made this years ago, bit I know nothing about it.? Then we find out that -- not really(and thanks to Tamra for trying).? And then: paint anything however how you like, nothing really matches anyway. For us as a group trying to preserve our Unimats as best we can, we should at least try to finish them in keeping with Unimat history.? I will suggest the following.? Can we all manage photos of our various Unis with original finishes and come up with a file system that shows them all with some description?? ?As of now, I have a crackle black, a hammered silver, a flat greenish gray and of course hammered green.? I can take photos when there is good daylight and post these wherever we choose. Meanwhile, I suppose that we wait for Verde Green.
On Mar 24, 2023, at 7:58 AM, David James via groups.io <davebjames@...> wrote:
?Ruben,
Thank you very much for the link to that website. I managed to buy the vertical column. He unfortunately does not ship out of Europe so I sent it to a friend in the Netherlands for now. Will figure out later how to get it to me, it's a rare item so I grabbed
it.
Thanks again
I agree with Ruben. I also have 3 db200/SLs and they're all different shades of green. And all of their motors are a different shade of green or blue green than the lathes they came with.? Paint them whatever color makes you happy. That's a nice looking cast iron model. Wish I had one.
Cheers,
James
On Friday, March 24, 2023 at 04:01:56 AM PDT, Ruben <groen.drenthe@...> wrote:
Here i have 3 unimat's, all total different tint green. Because I don't think there is a true tint green, I can choose my own color.
Rolling your own is easy,
unless you want the internal hex, then it becomes a real
challenge!
-Dave
On Thursday, March 23, 2023 at 07:24:39 PM PDT, Bill in
OKC too via groups.io <wmrmeyers@...>
wrote:
You can get taps & dies in M12-1 from
Amazon, and make your own, if you want. Seems to
me me I saw allthread in M12-1, as well. Didn't
buy that, since I got the tap & die. ;)
Bill in OKC?
?
William
R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)
Aphorisms to live by:
Good judgement comes from
experience. Experience comes from bad
judgement.?
SEMPER GUMBY!
Improvise, Adapt, and
Overcome. Physics doesn't care about
your schedule. The only reason I know
anything is because I've done it wrong
enough times to START to know better.
Expect
in one hand, expectorate in the
other. See which one gets full
first.
On Thursday, March 23, 2023 at 06:55:18 PM
CDT, Carl <carl.blum@...> wrote:
Hi Gang:
Does any one know
of a source for the SL1000 bolt? M12x1
is a odd thread and the closest I've
found are pipe/tubing fitting.
Thanks, Carl.
On 3/23/2023 2:16 PM, g steinback via
groups.io wrote:
Thank you very much for the link to that website. I managed to buy the vertical column. He unfortunately does not ship out of Europe so I sent it to a friend in the Netherlands for now. Will figure out later how to get it to me, it's a rare item so I grabbed it. Thanks again
Rolling your own is easy, unless you want the internal hex, then it becomes a real challenge!
-Dave
On Thursday, March 23, 2023 at 07:24:39 PM PDT, Bill in OKC too via groups.io <wmrmeyers@...> wrote:
You can get taps & dies in M12-1 from Amazon, and make your own, if you want. Seems to me me I saw allthread in M12-1, as well. Didn't buy that, since I got the tap & die. ;)
Bill in OKC?
?
William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)
Aphorisms to live by:
Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement.?
SEMPER GUMBY!
Improvise, Adapt, and Overcome. Physics doesn't care about your schedule. The only reason I know anything is because I've done it wrong enough times to START to know better.
Expect in one hand, expectorate in the other. See which one gets full first.
On Thursday, March 23, 2023 at 06:55:18 PM CDT, Carl <carl.blum@...> wrote:
Hi
Gang:
Does
any one know of a source for the SL1000 bolt? M12x1 is a odd
thread and the closest I've found are pipe/tubing fitting.
Thanks,
Carl.
On 3/23/2023 2:16 PM, g steinback via groups.io wrote:
I'm about to purchase some ER collet chucks but unsure if I should get one with backplate (will allow more flexibility if it's untrue) vs a directly threaded one.?
On Fri, Mar 24, 2023, 11:46 AM Keith S. Angus <keithsangus@...> wrote:
Can you post a picture of the chuck? Not all of them use a back plate. I have three or four which run badly, and only one uses a back plate. There are a lot of ER collet holders which have the right thread on them, but are not accurately made.
Can you post a picture of the chuck? Not all of them use a back plate. I have three or four which run badly, and only one uses a back plate. There are a lot of ER collet holders which have the right thread on them, but are not accurately made.
If you look?in Files?for Locking Screw DB501-8.pdf that is my drawing of the screw, and my version of it using a hex head instead of a socket head. I made one according to this drawing, with the hex head, and it worked fine. If you use 12 mm silver steel (drill rod) you could harden and temper it to make it a bit tougher. If you use free cutting steel or even hard brass it will probably do the job well enough.
M12 × 1 is a fairly common thread for uses other than nuts & bolts, but I haven't seen anything around that would easily replace this screw. However M12 × 1 taps and dies are not hard to find, so you could make one on your Unimat - though you might need two attempts to get it right - I did.
Just looked at the specs for a Taig Micro Lathe II, should do it just fine! If I'd been able to lay hands on one, I'd have bought the earlier version when I started my serious lathe hunt. Newish HF store had their 7x10 mini-lathe, so got that instead. Recently traded it for a pair of Unimats... :)
Bill In OKC?
William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)
Aphorisms to live by:
Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement.?
SEMPER GUMBY!
Improvise, Adapt, and Overcome. Physics doesn't care about your schedule. The only reason I know anything is because I've done it wrong enough times to START to know better.
Expect in one hand, expectorate in the other. See which one gets full first.
On Thursday, March 23, 2023 at 08:55:08 PM CDT, Carl <carl.blum@...> wrote:
Hello
Andy:
You
don't need a new back plate. Just take the chuck off the plate
you have and return the face and register of the old back
plate. When you put the chuck back on it should run true.
If not,
get a soft hammer and wack it until it does.
(wack
is a technical term)
Good
luck, Carl.
On 3/23/2023 9:44 PM, Andrey Malakov
(gmail) wrote:
Hello All,
I got Unimat 3 E16 Collet chuck that has horrible runout.
Unimat Instruction book mentions the process of turning back
plate for this chuck for the best precision.?
The question is where to get untuned M14 back plate these day?
Don't see them on eBay.
Unfortunately I do not have access to a larger lathe, except for
Taig Microlathe II. Do you think it is doable on Taig??
You can get taps & dies in M12-1 from Amazon, and make your own, if you want. Seems to me me I saw allthread in M12-1, as well. Didn't buy that, since I got the tap & die. ;)
Bill in OKC?
?
William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)
Aphorisms to live by:
Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement.?
SEMPER GUMBY!
Improvise, Adapt, and Overcome. Physics doesn't care about your schedule. The only reason I know anything is because I've done it wrong enough times to START to know better.
Expect in one hand, expectorate in the other. See which one gets full first.
On Thursday, March 23, 2023 at 06:55:18 PM CDT, Carl <carl.blum@...> wrote:
Hi
Gang:
Does
any one know of a source for the SL1000 bolt? M12x1 is a odd
thread and the closest I've found are pipe/tubing fitting.
Thanks,
Carl.
On 3/23/2023 2:16 PM, g steinback via groups.io wrote:
When looking for a milling column, if it's not obvious ask the
seller to send you a photo of the locking bolt on the headstock adapter.
This is one for a SL1000 and will NOT work on a DB200 -
You
don't need a new back plate. Just take the chuck off the plate
you have and return the face and register of the old back
plate. When you put the chuck back on it should run true.
If not,
get a soft hammer and wack it until it does.
(wack
is a technical term)
Good
luck, Carl.
On 3/23/2023 9:44 PM, Andrey Malakov
(gmail) wrote:
The original photo you posted certainly looks like a DB200. One MAJOR change made to the SL1000 was the headstock locking mechanism (which has already been alluded to).
To be absolutely sure, unscrew the locking bolt on the pulley side of the base - just a few turns should do (you might not even need to do that).
This is the DB200 bolt - note the threads are at the far end of the bolt -
This is the SL1000 bolt -
When looking for a milling column, if it's not obvious ask the seller to send you a photo of the locking bolt on the headstock adapter. This is one for a SL1000 and will NOT work on a DB200 -