Hello,

While looking for information i found this group Unimat users.
A lot of information to learn from, thanks.

I,m already have an old model unimat and found a 'new' member that needs some work.
The plan is to use the 2e unimat as mill.


Ruben.

Hello David,

I'm new here and yust read your question.
There is a mill collumn online that fits your Unimat.


I'm not related to the seller, but have bought from him.

Maybe he is willing to send overseas.

Ruben

My Uni came to me without a column but had the bracket and second tapered bolt. I made a column (on a bigger lathe). Making the hole took several ops and a couple of specially made and hardened tools to counterbore and to finish the taper after step drilling.

The planning process and job itself are recorded on the Model Engineer forum at https://www.model-engineer.co.uk/forums/postings.asp?th=148495

Not sure I'd fancy making the bracket myself !

Whether you decide to buy or build... in the meantime you can still enjoy using your Uni as a lathe.

Good luck.

So I recently acquired a unimat pc basic and I've just got it up and running.

Measuring at the spindle nose it looks like a run out of just less than 0.01mm.

See video?

I'm new to lathes and read that less than 0.01mm is OK, but ideally it should be less than 0.005mm.?

1. Is this acceptable for the lathe??
2. Should I bother to get it to sub 0.005mm, or just be done with it and start using the lathe proper??
3. If indeed I should fix it, is the likely problem in the bearings?


Thank you!?

JP (newbie to lathes)?

Ok thank you guys, I have a better idea now. I must admit none of the advertised ones on ebay look like this.
I will keep looking, otherwise I will try to machine one myself.?

Doesn't look like it. The cast iron one has a round flange where it meets the headstock... or where the column has been attached in the case of the photo.

On the whole if the ad doesn't make it clear then it's more likely the newer style.

Is this the correct one for my machine, old model mk4

Thank you to all who have put me on the right track, I was not aware there were different columns. I think all the ones I looked at on ebay were the wrong ones. I will try to look for a manual on the net for the Mk 4.

My local Commercial Sherwin Williams will color match and put it in a spray can, but we are looking at a minimum of 12 cans and $150....
this does not have a hammered finish, so you would have to buy the??clear hammered finish from Rustoleum.? It is available at Amazon.

It is only $28 for a quart of paint and I could purchase 1/2 pint paint cans, and would be a lot less expensive, perhaps $2 for a 1/2 Pint container and lid, Unlined....??

32 oz in a quart
1/2 pint is 8 oz,?

$7 + $2 paint can is $9.... seems to me that the spray cans are easier for $3.50...

Your thoughts?

Tamra

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Hi Gang:

The old style have a bolt with a taper that goes through the stud on the head stock and the milling column. The stud on the head stock rotates to angle the head.

The new style the column has one blind hole to accept the locking set screw. The head stock has two grooves to allow the head to rotate with or with out the 20mm spacer. ( I have a 19mm (3/4") spacer that works fine )

I've made two bases for the milling column so I can mount it behind the machine for more flexibility. I think you could make your own base, column and head adapter. Using a shaft you could use an adapter like this:

Misumi also has shaft bases and are easy to deal with.

But if I were making a milling column I would build with a dovetail with a lead screw so I could accurately move the head up and down.

Good luck, Carl.

Hi Keith,?

By any chance could you share the supplier of pulleys for the UNIMAT Pc??

My motor pulley gear is kinda worn and need replacing.?

Thanks!

JP

Hi there,

Can't help with supplying one but do bear in mind that the column, headstock and milling bracket have two distinct versions. AFAIK you can't mix and match.

The earlier column has a tapered hole straight through the middle of the spigot into which a bolt with a tapered section screws. The later one has a groove (or is it two?) all around the circumference of the spigot.

My Uni has the earlier style... which is why I'm a bit vague on the later style.

I am a new member here and the new proud owner of a Unimat SL, it is an old machine and not complete, it has no vertical column and head stock adapter for milling . I have found a number on Ebay but none of them want to ship out of the US & UK to where I live on Borneo Island. It would be much appreciated if someone had such items they wanted to dispose of and would be willing to ship abroad or knew of someone who could help.
Looking forward to learning how to use this little machine, may need some pointers from you folks on this group, thanks in advance

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They also have this color.

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Just wanted to throw this bit of info out there for you guys looking for original color. Testors makes an Olive Drab that is VERY similar to the factory Unimat green color. It can be found at Michaels, HobbyLobby, and most other crafts/hobby shops for about $6.99 a can. One can is just the right amount to cover the DB200 if you do 2 coats. It's also a paint/primer spray lacquer so it holds up pretty well to scratches/scuffs once it hardens and dries.? Takes about 20 minutes to dry to touch and 24hrs to fully cure at room temperature. It's not quite a 100% match but it's pretty close. Hope this helps!!