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Re: 3d printed steady rest for unimat 3/4

 

Hi Peter?
Would you mind putting the modeling files in our files section or somewhere like Thingeverse.
Also what Modeling software are you using I'm still struggling with Fusion 360.
There are easier ones but Fusion looks the best.
With Covid19 restrictions making me stay at home I have the time to learn a new skill.
Thanks in advance Mike


Re: We seem to be thriving!

 

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Blimey Slough !

Know it well , although a long time ago .

Worked for ICI Paints Division in the research dept .

Played lots of football round and about Windsor? - Castle and all .

Unbelievable weather , pity about the lock down

Keep safe and let's get though this nasty virus .



On 26/04/2020 18:03, ksangus via [] wrote:
On Sat, Apr 25, 2020 at 02:34 PM, Raymond King wrote:
Just because not everyone contributes, that does not mean it's not appreciated .
That is true, and good to know, but the rate of posting messages is the only measure we have of activity. Anyway, the numbers are encouraging, and that will do for me!

Keith, in sunny Slough

Virus-free.


Re: Good books CHEAP!

Queen Nanu
 

Thank Jeff,
I read one in a town library and it's a good read. I have always been looking for the opportunity to own one.
Thanks for sharing.
Queen


Re: 3d printed steady rest for unimat 3/4

 

Hi Les,?

I am liking that, I drive an SL.?

I don't have access to a 3D printer at the moment. Most of the ones I know of are printing mask bits.?

I would be interested in the necessary files for that for later, is there going to be a later??

Stay safe,?
James, locked down in sunny Fife.?


Sent from my Sony Xperia on the hoof
This email contains recycled electrons

On Sun, 26 Apr 2020, 09:36 , <lesorton@...> wrote:
Thanks for the reply.
I used 20% fill and 1.2 wall section, feels quite rigid. The arms are printed on a 3D Resin printer, I am do the body in that later.
The bearings (the brass looking parts) are 4mm ID, 9mm OD x 4mm wide, these are still in the post. I also done have the small screws yet.
I suppose it all depends on what you use them for. Mine will probably be to hold 6mm + bars the centre drill the ends.


--
James Batchelor?
Dunfermline, Fife, UK.?
07805 207238


Re: We seem to be thriving!

 

On Sat, Apr 25, 2020 at 02:34 PM, Raymond King wrote:
Just because not everyone contributes, that does not mean it's not appreciated .
That is true, and good to know, but the rate of posting messages is the only measure we have of activity. Anyway, the numbers are encouraging, and that will do for me!

Keith, in sunny Slough


Re: Clamping large dia. for centre-drilling

 

On Sat, Apr 25, 2020 at 01:34 AM, OldToolmaker wrote:
Keith,
That sounds like a good method to insure close T.I.R. I have an existing 1/4” Emco drill chuck with T.I.R. issues since new back in the fifties or sixties. It is threaded 12mm x1mm and has around .005” T.I.R. runout. I also have two new old stock 1/4” Supreme key drill chucks with a Jacobs taper having an 8mm taper shanks to fit the watchmakers spindle. They both have a small amount of runout. I would have expected better TIR from this tooling but it is acceptable.
Dick
I got a precision Jacobs chuck, 4 mm capacity, aiming to bore it out to use on the DB/SL. Once I looked at it I reakised that boring it out would mean it would fall apart, or at least be seriously damaged. Then I found I was equipped for collets (the right combination of parts arrived)? so I left it alone. Once I got the ER11ram for the tailstock (GGtools), I don't think I've used a drill chuck since. ER11 goes up to 7 mm, the usual drill chuck from Rohm is 6.35 mm. Dunno where that small chuck is now.

Keith


Re: 3d printed steady rest for unimat 3/4

 

You may be able to buy a unimat SL fixed steady on Ebay usa, but I haven't seen on for sale in Europe for the last 6 months.
I can tell you that the cost for 3D printing form Shapeways, a 3D printing company. would not be cheap I am guessing more than $100.
When I've proven my steady I'm going to post them here for all to use.


Re: Good books CHEAP!

 

Here is another one of my favorites. The Wonders of Machinery Hall. This is a large book 8 1/2' x 11" with 192 pages. It walks you through the construction and the expositions of the Machinery Hall of the Chicago Columbian Exposition of 1893 ( Worlds Fair) it is full of old photos and drawings from a 127 years ago.?

?Jeff


Re: 3d printed steady rest for unimat 3/4

 

What is the cost of having a steady rest commercially printed for either an original Unimat or a Unimat 3, or who is selling printed ones and for what price?? I want to compare printed ones to buying original on?Ebay.? ?I am also thinking that I can sell an original one on Ebay if I no?longer need it, but maybe a printed one has little resale value? There is no need to tell us that you have this great printer and CAD system, you can design and print your own, for almost no money.??


Re: Good books CHEAP!

 

The "Echoes fro Oil Country" series are good to read. they are many different stories about early machine shops (steam powered) and how they had to go out and make/repair equipment. Most of these are from the very early American Machinist magazines going back to the 1800's. This books are on sale now at close out prices and are very cheap. i just ordered a dozen more books.
?Jeff


Re: 3d printed steady rest for unimat 3/4

 

Thanks for the reply.
I used 20% fill and 1.2 wall section, feels quite rigid. The arms are printed on a 3D Resin printer, I am do the body in that later.
The bearings (the brass looking parts) are 4mm ID, 9mm OD x 4mm wide, these are still in the post. I also done have the small screws yet.
I suppose it all depends on what you use them for. Mine will probably be to hold 6mm + bars the centre drill the ends.


Re: 3d printed steady rest for unimat 3/4

 

Hi guys,?

It looks like the business. I would have thought that sacrifical legs approach would be the best option.?

Great work.?

Stay safe,?
James, locked down in sunny Fife.?

Sent from my Sony Xperia on the hoof
This email contains recycled electrons


On Sun, 26 Apr 2020, 09:20 Peter ashby via , <aescinga.pgen=[email protected]> wrote:
I print in ABS and did this with a solid fill, even then it was less than 30m filament, i havent tested it yet, but my thoughts are that the legs can easily be reprinted for a matter of a few pennies worth of filament, so why worry about wear, the ABS should be pretty good for that anyway.
testing will be later today.
worst case wear wise i could create a leg with a hole at the end and turn up some brass inserts to pop into the ends.

------ Original Message ------
Sent: 26/04/2020 08:38:16
Subject: Re: [Unimat] 3d printed steady rest for unimat 3/4

Hi Peter, nice steady.
Can I ask what material you used. I have mine 3D printed in PLA and I'm waiting for the small bearings to go on the end of the 3 legs before I can use it.
Do the legs wear much?


--
James Batchelor?
Dunfermline, Fife, UK.?
07805 207238


Re: 3d printed steady rest for unimat 3/4

 

I print in ABS and did this with a solid fill, even then it was less than 30m filament, i havent tested it yet, but my thoughts are that the legs can easily be reprinted for a matter of a few pennies worth of filament, so why worry about wear, the ABS should be pretty good for that anyway.
testing will be later today.
worst case wear wise i could create a leg with a hole at the end and turn up some brass inserts to pop into the ends.

------ Original Message ------
Sent: 26/04/2020 08:38:16
Subject: Re: [Unimat] 3d printed steady rest for unimat 3/4

Hi Peter, nice steady.
Can I ask what material you used. I have mine 3D printed in PLA and I'm waiting for the small bearings to go on the end of the 3 legs before I can use it.
Do the legs wear much?


Re: 3d printed steady rest for unimat 3/4

 

Hi Peter, nice steady.
Can I ask what material you used. I have mine 3D printed in PLA and I'm waiting for the small bearings to go on the end of the 3 legs before I can use it.
Do the legs wear much?


3d printed steady rest for unimat 3/4

 

Primed by the earlier post of a 3d printed steady rest for a Unimat SL or DB, I was inspired to create my own for my Unimat 3.


Re: Good books CHEAP!

pkjimdandy
 

Cool... I ordered a few. Thanks for sharing.?


On Saturday, April 25, 2020, Jkle379184 via <jkle379184=[email protected]> wrote:
?If you remember the old Lindsay Publications Reprints of old machinist, machinery and technical books. Here is where they wound up and they are on sale again!
?
Jeff


Good books CHEAP!

 

?If you remember the old Lindsay Publications Reprints of old machinist, machinery and technical books. Here is where they wound up and they are on sale again!
?
Jeff


Re: Tapping drill chucks for M12x1

 

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Hello Dick:

You are right, the body is mild steel where you need to cut. That is how I did the threads on my ER32 Chuck:

/g/Unimat/photo/195716/4?p=Name,,er32,20,1,0,0

Carl.

On 4/25/2020 1:22 PM, OldToolmaker via groups.io wrote:

Hi Carl,

I was assuming the chuck body was able to be machined and not too hard.
That makes it very doable.
Dick


Re: Tapping drill chucks for M12x1

 

Hi Carl,

I was assuming the chuck body was able to be machined and not too hard.
That makes it very doable.
Dick


Tapping drill chucks for M12x1

 

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Hi Gang:

This is almost what I do, the big difference I put a dowel pin in the lathe for the drill chuck to clamp on. If the dowel pin is running true, the clamping surfaces of the chuck are too. Then I'm very gentle about drilling / boring before the tapping. And I think it reaches the possible limits of a three jaw drill chuck to be consistent.

Next I should get an Albrecht chuck for my Unimat, they are the best.

Carl.

On 4/25/2020 2:08 AM, lesorton@... wrote:

When I got my Unimat SL it had a 3 jaw chuck and a 4 jaw chuck, not self centering. I bought a 10mm drill chuck that had a B2 I believe taper in it. I clamped the drill chuck in the 4 jaw chuck and made sure it was running true. I bored out the back to 11mm and then put the M12x1 tap in using a fixed centre in the tailstock to make sure it was aligned. I tapped the M12x1 then bored the 12mm section. It worked fine with only a small run-out.