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Re: 3d printed steady rest for unimat 3/4

 

You may be able to buy a unimat SL fixed steady on Ebay usa, but I haven't seen on for sale in Europe for the last 6 months.
I can tell you that the cost for 3D printing form Shapeways, a 3D printing company. would not be cheap I am guessing more than $100.
When I've proven my steady I'm going to post them here for all to use.
Re: Good books CHEAP!

 

Here is another one of my favorites. The Wonders of Machinery Hall. This is a large book 8 1/2' x 11" with 192 pages. It walks you through the construction and the expositions of the Machinery Hall of the Chicago Columbian Exposition of 1893 ( Worlds Fair) it is full of old photos and drawings from a 127 years ago.?

?Jeff
Re: 3d printed steady rest for unimat 3/4

 

What is the cost of having a steady rest commercially printed for either an original Unimat or a Unimat 3, or who is selling printed ones and for what price?? I want to compare printed ones to buying original on?Ebay.? ?I am also thinking that I can sell an original one on Ebay if I no?longer need it, but maybe a printed one has little resale value? There is no need to tell us that you have this great printer and CAD system, you can design and print your own, for almost no money.??
Re: Good books CHEAP!

 

The "Echoes fro Oil Country" series are good to read. they are many different stories about early machine shops (steam powered) and how they had to go out and make/repair equipment. Most of these are from the very early American Machinist magazines going back to the 1800's. This books are on sale now at close out prices and are very cheap. i just ordered a dozen more books.
?Jeff
Re: 3d printed steady rest for unimat 3/4

 

Thanks for the reply.
I used 20% fill and 1.2 wall section, feels quite rigid. The arms are printed on a 3D Resin printer, I am do the body in that later.
The bearings (the brass looking parts) are 4mm ID, 9mm OD x 4mm wide, these are still in the post. I also done have the small screws yet.
I suppose it all depends on what you use them for. Mine will probably be to hold 6mm + bars the centre drill the ends.
Re: 3d printed steady rest for unimat 3/4

 

Hi guys,?

It looks like the business. I would have thought that sacrifical legs approach would be the best option.?

Great work.?

Stay safe,?
James, locked down in sunny Fife.?

Sent from my Sony Xperia on the hoof
This email contains recycled electrons


On Sun, 26 Apr 2020, 09:20 Peter ashby via , <aescinga.pgen=[email protected]> wrote:
I print in ABS and did this with a solid fill, even then it was less than 30m filament, i havent tested it yet, but my thoughts are that the legs can easily be reprinted for a matter of a few pennies worth of filament, so why worry about wear, the ABS should be pretty good for that anyway.
testing will be later today.
worst case wear wise i could create a leg with a hole at the end and turn up some brass inserts to pop into the ends.

------ Original Message ------
Sent: 26/04/2020 08:38:16
Subject: Re: [Unimat] 3d printed steady rest for unimat 3/4

Hi Peter, nice steady.
Can I ask what material you used. I have mine 3D printed in PLA and I'm waiting for the small bearings to go on the end of the 3 legs before I can use it.
Do the legs wear much?


--
James Batchelor?
Dunfermline, Fife, UK.?
07805 207238
Re: 3d printed steady rest for unimat 3/4

 

I print in ABS and did this with a solid fill, even then it was less than 30m filament, i havent tested it yet, but my thoughts are that the legs can easily be reprinted for a matter of a few pennies worth of filament, so why worry about wear, the ABS should be pretty good for that anyway.
testing will be later today.
worst case wear wise i could create a leg with a hole at the end and turn up some brass inserts to pop into the ends.

------ Original Message ------
Sent: 26/04/2020 08:38:16
Subject: Re: [Unimat] 3d printed steady rest for unimat 3/4

Hi Peter, nice steady.
Can I ask what material you used. I have mine 3D printed in PLA and I'm waiting for the small bearings to go on the end of the 3 legs before I can use it.
Do the legs wear much?

Re: 3d printed steady rest for unimat 3/4

 

Hi Peter, nice steady.
Can I ask what material you used. I have mine 3D printed in PLA and I'm waiting for the small bearings to go on the end of the 3 legs before I can use it.
Do the legs wear much?
3d printed steady rest for unimat 3/4

 

Primed by the earlier post of a 3d printed steady rest for a Unimat SL or DB, I was inspired to create my own for my Unimat 3.

IMG_2914.jpg
IMG_2915.jpg
IMG_2916.jpg
IMG_2917.jpg

Re: Good books CHEAP!

pkjimdandy
 

Cool... I ordered a few. Thanks for sharing.?


On Saturday, April 25, 2020, Jkle379184 via <jkle379184=[email protected]> wrote:
?If you remember the old Lindsay Publications Reprints of old machinist, machinery and technical books. Here is where they wound up and they are on sale again!
?
Jeff

Good books CHEAP!

 

?If you remember the old Lindsay Publications Reprints of old machinist, machinery and technical books. Here is where they wound up and they are on sale again!
?
Jeff
Re: Tapping drill chucks for M12x1

 

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Hello Dick:

You are right, the body is mild steel where you need to cut. That is how I did the threads on my ER32 Chuck:

/g/Unimat/photo/195716/4?p=Name,,er32,20,1,0,0

Carl.

On 4/25/2020 1:22 PM, OldToolmaker via groups.io wrote:

Hi Carl,

I was assuming the chuck body was able to be machined and not too hard.
That makes it very doable.
Dick
Re: Tapping drill chucks for M12x1

 

Hi Carl,

I was assuming the chuck body was able to be machined and not too hard.
That makes it very doable.
Dick
Tapping drill chucks for M12x1

 

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Hi Gang:

This is almost what I do, the big difference I put a dowel pin in the lathe for the drill chuck to clamp on. If the dowel pin is running true, the clamping surfaces of the chuck are too. Then I'm very gentle about drilling / boring before the tapping. And I think it reaches the possible limits of a three jaw drill chuck to be consistent.

Next I should get an Albrecht chuck for my Unimat, they are the best.

Carl.

On 4/25/2020 2:08 AM, lesorton@... wrote:

When I got my Unimat SL it had a 3 jaw chuck and a 4 jaw chuck, not self centering. I bought a 10mm drill chuck that had a B2 I believe taper in it. I clamped the drill chuck in the 4 jaw chuck and made sure it was running true. I bored out the back to 11mm and then put the M12x1 tap in using a fixed centre in the tailstock to make sure it was aligned. I tapped the M12x1 then bored the 12mm section. It worked fine with only a small run-out.

Re: We seem to be thriving!

 

Hi guys,?

I think Paul is right, the format and organisation of certainly helps a lot.?

Stay safe,?
James in sunny Fife?

Sent from my Sony Xperia on the hoof
This email contains recycled electrons


On Sat, 25 Apr 2020, 13:23 paul b via , <pointfivebsw=[email protected]> wrote:
Yes, lockdown must be helping, I've certainly done more modelling and lathework in the past few weeks than I normally would. I've even got my airbrush out of storage which hasn't seen the light of day for quite a few years.

I wonder if the new format is helping as well, it does seem easier to use and you can actually post photos now.

Paul, locked down is sunny Derbyshire, U.K.


--
James Batchelor?
Dunfermline, Fife, UK.?
07805 207238
Re: We seem to be thriving!

 

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Keith

I think you would be surprised by the number of people visiting this site gleaning great ideas.

Just because not everyone contributes, that does not mean it's not appreciated .

I'm not into making models but do lots of repairs .

My oven door hinges would not be the same without pins made on the unimat .

Great forum

Ray ( In UK)



On 24/04/2020 23:25, Keith S. Angus via groups.io wrote:
Looking at the activity numbers we are having the best month for a good few years now. With everyone being in isolation, shut down, lock up or lock in it's a good job we still have our forum to help keep us amused. Not many months ago it looked like it mught have shut down for lack of interest, but it staggered on. Just as well!


Keith

Virus-free.

Re: We seem to be thriving!

 

Yes, lockdown must be helping, I've certainly done more modelling and lathework in the past few weeks than I normally would. I've even got my airbrush out of storage which hasn't seen the light of day for quite a few years.

I wonder if the new format is helping as well, it does seem easier to use and you can actually post photos now.

Paul, locked down is sunny Derbyshire, U.K.
Re: We seem to be thriving!

 

I am one of the new members, though I have been interested in Unimat lathes and machining on a bigger scale for many years.

I have noticed an increase in interest in these little lathes and I think thanks to youtube and more recently lockdown there has been a resurgence in crafts in general.

I would like to say also that IMO the old group was confusing to use and difficult to find through a web search. I put off joining many many times because of that.?
Re: Clamping large dia. for centre-drilling

 

When I got my Unimat SL it had a 3 jaw chuck and a 4 jaw chuck, not self centering. I bought a 10mm drill chuck that had a B2 I believe taper in it. I clamped the drill chuck in the 4 jaw chuck and made sure it was running true. I bored out the back to 11mm and then put the M12x1 tap in using a fixed centre in the tailstock to make sure it was aligned. I tapped the M12x1 then bored the 12mm section. It worked fine with only a small run-out.

Re: Clamping large dia. for centre-drilling

 

Keith,
That sounds like a good method to insure close T.I.R. I have an existing 1/4¡± Emco drill chuck with T.I.R. issues since new back in the fifties or sixties. It is threaded 12mm x1mm and has around .005¡± T.I.R. runout. I also have two new old stock 1/4¡± Supreme key drill chucks with a Jacobs taper having an 8mm taper shanks to fit the watchmakers spindle. They both have a small amount of runout. I would have expected better TIR from this tooling but it is acceptable.
Dick
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