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I just picked up a 2465DVM from a TV station nearby, I have a few questions but I'm mostly looking for the rear feet/cord wrap that is supposed to be on this scope. The bottom parts of the feet are broken off, I suppose from being bashed around on a cart. Also, is it normal for the fan on this model to be loud, as if it's off balance? The 2445 I bought and got back working, the fan on it is quiet. Not so on this one. Naturally it doesn't have the original manual. I read somewhere there was a different fan put in serials after B050000 but I don't have the manual to see the schematic and part changes there.

At the museum some of the volunteers would use a curve tracer to try and characterize and isolate faults. One of our volunteers used this concept to develop a low cost versatile debugging aid which we now sell. It is a two channel device that uses a weak signal to display two I-V curves on a windows PC. This allows you to compare various circuit elements and look for anomalies to help isolate an area for further investigation. We call this the Curvebug. Our web page has more information including a 9 minute video and the user manual. https://vintagetek.org/curvebug/ Dave

I got knobs and Skirts for the SC502, SC503, and SC504s. The skirts came out perfect! See Photos /g/TekScopes/album?id=302038 Barry

Looking for the above

Greetings from Louisiana! I have had several damaged shipments of the SC502, SC503, SC504 scopes. The Slope / Level switch-pot is damaged along with the knob. In a similar way the Volts/Div and Time/Div knobs were broken. In one case the shafts on all 3 knobs were broken. I decided to have shafts built in plastic and 316L Stainless steel. I took the original knob with the printed skirts and drilled out the original shaft and replace with the custom shafts I designed and had manufactured. The plastic shafts are as good as the original, and the 316L stainless steel shafts are far better than the original. I am also working on having the skirts manufactured out of 1/16" acrylic and printed with UV Ink. So now for the question(s)... 1) Does anyone have any SC502, SC503, SC504 knobs with broken shafts that need to be repaired. I can provide the shafts or repair your broken shaft. 2) Does anyone need new skirts for SC502, SC503, SC504. So far I have restored several of these scopes (more than 10). Initially I got plenty of help / suggestions from the group. Many thanks for that. Regards, Barry

The following photos have been uploaded to the SC503 and SC504 Volts/Div and Time/Div Knob Shaft ( /g/TekScopes/album?id=302038 ) photo album of the [email protected] group. * IMG_2585.JPG ( /g/TekScopes/photofromactivity?id=3916678 ) * IMG_2587.JPG ( /g/TekScopes/photofromactivity?id=3916679 ) * IMG_2583.JPG ( /g/TekScopes/photofromactivity?id=3916680 ) *By:* Barry Breaux <groupsio@...>

My ancient Tektronix 547 oscilloscope with 1A1 plugin was working fine until a few weeks ago when the display suddenly went intermittent and bright, and an arcing sound came from the area of the crt high voltage circuit. No arcing could be seen anywhere, but the sound definitely came from the vicinity of the high voltage assembly. At this point, the Intensity control had no effect, and the intermittent sweeps were very bright. The sweeps only occurred when the arcing sounds were heard. Otherwise, a bright spot stayed on the left side of the display. The focus control also had only a slight effect. Suspecting the flyback transformer T801, I sourced an assembly from another 547 that included the transformer and the voltage multiplier comprised of the 5642 diodes. Symptoms remained the same, unfortunately. Replacing one of the regulator tubes in the 350V supply (6CW5) with a brand new one strangely made the arcing go away, but still no display. In fact, no more intermittent sweeps, only the ultra bright spot at the left hand side of the display. Currently, I have no way of measuring the high voltages from this assembly (10kV), so I’m not sure if they’re within spec. I also changed out the four 0.01uF caps in the Intensity circuit in case they were arcing, but no improvement. Scoping the output of the B Sweep Generator section (at tube V91), there was no sign of a sweep waveform (consistent with the stationary bright dot on the left side of the display). I’ve tested every tube in the scope, except for the 6080s (and checked all transistors for opens or shorts). None gave the impression that they would be show stoppers. I also scoped all B+ and B- rails. All were rock steady except for the +350V line, which had some ripple. Even after changing out the 6CW5, the ripple was still there. It’s obviously generating high voltage as evidenced by the bright spot on the crt. I can’t understand the relationship between the inability to control Intensity and Focus and the lack of a sweep signal. It doesn’t matter whether I’m in A, B or ALT timebases. Could the crt have an internal fault? Any advice or best guesses as to where I should look next would be much appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Hi all, I have a Tek 2432 which fails the following; 1: 7000 CCD 2: 8000 PA 3: 9000 TRIGS I also have a Tek 2432A which fails; 1: 5000 WP 2: 8000 PA -- no pass/fail message 3: 9000 TRIGS -- no pass/fail message Is this an almighty going round in circles job or has anyone been through this before? Before you suggest it - the batteries are ok. I may donate these if they require a lot of time to fix to somebody who has the time. Regards Gearoid Loughnane Dublin

I would like to replace the graticule lamps in my 2465b. I thought I had seen a exploded view of the front panel assembly somewhere but can't seem to find it now. Any suggestions?

My TDS 380 finally quit, not be able to read the NVRAM anymore. I have removed the DALLAS 1655, dug out the battery, and attached an external 3V supply. It now saves the settings between power ups, so I assume the DALLAS part is working again. I obviously lost the calibration while replacing the battery. I have removed the calibration jumper on the main board, and run the voltage reference calibration, using a power supply, setting the voltage with the best that I have for a digital volt meter, using a voltage divider for the lower voltages. After the procedure completes I am told that the calibration has failed. Can anyone tell me why the 'scope indicates a failed calibration? I've also noticed that when I set the date, no month appears, just the year, date in the month, and the time. Thanks, Gary Appel

Not a big fan of Facebook (but I'm interested in Meta AI...so...) Anyway, this was posted, recently, in the "Vintage Electronic Test Equipment" VETE forum/group, on Facebook. Anyway... if it was me... and even though I'd like to get it... it's not going to be. I'd offer him a few bucks for it... especially if he has to USPS it. Remember, it's on Facebook, it in AR, and it's heavy. -- Roy Thistle

I have a 2465B with a broken Volts/VAR shaft and am asking for second opinion on replacing The shaft. My first thought is to pull the front panel out following service manual. Then proceed to the POT module removal process as described in service manual to Gain access to the broken shaft for removal from the actual variable pot. Install a replacement shaft, then reassemble everything. I have a dead 2465A for parts doner that I plan on practicing on first. Is there a simpler solution for what I need to do? After the shaft is replaced, I plan on recapping the LVPS and then replacing the surface mount electrolyte capacitors and DS chip on the A5 board.

https://www.ecosensory.com/tek/tek-fuses7A29-maybe.jpg

I have a few of NFM's Peak to Peak (067-0625-00 clone) PCBs if anyone would like one for free. I only needed one for myself to play around with. https://youtu.be/VVPHifwseJc?si=BO3K54p_2KfN1lOO msg me privately and we'll sort it out.

I got a TM502A that is in working condition but was dropped at some point. The spot welds that held the power transformer bracket gave out (I assume from being dropped) and the weight of the transformer broke the snap in tabs that hold the power entry module in place. It's a custom Tek part, so finding an off the shelf part is going to be tough. I know it's a long shot but was wondering if anyone had a spare one in their parts bin? I'm also trying to think of creative ways to secure the broken one in place (both tabs are broken) and have a few ideas but haven't come up with anything that I'm comfortable with yet. Worst case scenario, I can make an aluminum plate for an off the shelf part and forgo the input voltage selector and wire it for 120V and be done with it. The transformer bracket was easy enough to fix with machine screws and is much stronger than the wimpy spot welds that originally held it in place. Ideas? Thanks Jay

Today, was trying to fix a Wiltron 610D sweep generator with no output. Opening it up revealed the very difficult path to just accessing any of their boards. No slack in connecting wires, no way to access components, etc. Maybe, I'm used to the cool parking lot layout of Tektronix. Anyone have any experience on Wiltron? I won't dare try to fix another one again.

Hello All, I have done many custom hobby level PCB and circuits (four layer and two layer boards), bought thousands of components from Mouser, Newark, etc, purchased hundreds of feet of hook up wire and never once did any of them have that "strong new electronics smell" that I detect when removing a new PC motherboard from its static proof plastic bag or when opening up a new-in-box PC power supply. I have never noticed it when purchasing brand new higher end electronic test equipment (Tektronix, HP/Agilent/Keysight, Fluke). I have done many web searches on what the cause might be I have come across some suggestions as to what may contribute to the chemical off gassing. - bromide based fire protection coating - board cleaning / flux cleaning wash - fire retardant infused hookup wire insulation (this seems a bit far fetched to me) Anyone here involved or had experience with consumer (read as low cost / high quantity) commercial PCB and electronic manufacturing that could give some clues as to what it may be and if it is infused into the PCB / wire / components or if it can be cleaned / removed? Thanks, Dave

Hello, I inherited some old parts and came across this IC, documented on the website (https://w140.com/tekwiki/wiki/155-0019-00). Perhaps a Tektronix user might be interested? It was free to me, so free to whomever might need it. Thanks, --- Zach

The following items have been added to the Files area of the [email protected] group. * /Tek TM500 Power Module Tester 067-1201-99 New Ver/Tek 067-1201-99 Power Test Module Manual v1.9.pdf ( /g/TekScopes/files/Tek%20TM500%20Power%20Module%20Tester%20067-1201-99%20New%20Ver/Tek%20067-1201-99%20Power%20Test%20Module%20Manual%20v1.9.pdf ) *By:* Jared Cabot <jaredcabot@...>

Hi, I recently picked up a faulty P6245 probe, mainly for the accessories that came with it. It looks like someone blasted it past it's ratings and blew a chip in the probe end, but I'm thinking it could be fixed with some spare parts. I found it is quite possible and not too hard to pull the ceramic PCB out of the probe to swap it over. So, I'm wondering if anyone has one of these probes that is damaged in another way, but the probe end is still working? If so, I'm interested in throwing a few dollars at this to get it working again... Does anyone have this part that they could stick into an envelope to Japan for me? Thanks! Jared