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Team, I have over the past few months acquired 5 7844 scopes, none of which worked. Good thing it was just the cost of picking them up. I have repaired 3 of them so far, one of them still has the power supply on the bench, one was the parts source. On the latest project a R7844, after replacing caps in the power supply, replacing beam 1 vertical amp twice, original was very noisy, first replacement gain was very compressed on the positive side. Working very well now, calibration done. Discovered one last problem. Intensified sweep using a 7B92A. Beam 1 works perfectly, beam 2 the delayed intensified sweep is very dim . Intensity control does control it but at max you can just discern on the screen. Reducing the separation until it corresponds with the main trace it works perfectly. Now for the weird part if I use the older 7B92, intensified Alt trace, it works perfectly Thoughts? Mark W7HPW Real Radios Glow in the Dark

Greetings from Louisiana! I have had several damaged shipments of the SC502, SC503, SC504 scopes. The Slope / Level switch-pot is damaged along with the knob. In a similar way the Volts/Div and Time/Div knobs were broken. In one case the shafts on all 3 knobs were broken. I decided to have shafts built in plastic and 316L Stainless steel. I took the original knob with the printed skirts and drilled out the original shaft and replace with the custom shafts I designed and had manufactured. The plastic shafts are as good as the original, and the 316L stainless steel shafts are far better than the original. I am also working on having the skirts manufactured out of 1/16" acrylic and printed with UV Ink. So now for the question(s)... 1) Does anyone have any SC502, SC503, SC504 knobs with broken shafts that need to be repaired. I can provide the shafts or repair your broken shaft. 2) Does anyone need new skirts for SC502, SC503, SC504. So far I have restored several of these scopes (more than 10). Initially I got plenty of help / suggestions from the group. Many thanks for that. Regards, Barry

I use Google Translate. I don't have brightness adjustment and the reverse path of the beam is visible on my 2337. The A15 board is defective. A15 Vertical Output / H.V. Power Supply board. When I replace it with a working one from another 2337, everything is OK. Where should I "dig"? Thanks!

Barry Breaux <groupsio@...> added the photo album SC503 and SC504 Volts/Div and Time/Div Knob Shaft ( /g/TekScopes/album?id=302038 ) : If your SC503 or SC504 Volts/Div or Time/Div knob shaft was cracked or broken in shipment you can use these to replace the shaft. --- The following photos have been uploaded to the SC503 and SC504 Volts/Div and Time/Div Knob Shaft ( /g/TekScopes/album?id=302038 ) photo album of the [email protected] group. * IMG_2567.JPG ( /g/TekScopes/photofromactivity?id=3909069 ) *By:* Barry Breaux <groupsio@...> --- The following photos have been uploaded to the SC503 and SC504 Volts/Div and Time/Div Knob Shaft ( /g/TekScopes/album?id=302038 ) photo album of the [email protected] group. * IMG_2570.JPG ( /g/TekScopes/photofromactivity?id=3909070 ) *By:* Barry Breaux <groupsio@...>

My lovely 465 died immediately after I finished some cosmetic repairs. Low voltage test points all look good. No beam, except when I disconnect the ground lead of the HV multiplier as suggested by VintageTek Museum on youtube (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hf1qhx3JNRY). (I also hear some crackling sounds with the multiplier disconnected, so I haven't run it in this state for more than a few seconds.) Could the problem be anything else besides the multiplier? I have a digital scope but no high voltage probe. To measure high voltage DC I have been using a 10MOhm resistor and analog ammeter, but of course that's a significant load. If the problem is the multiplier - part number 152-0552-00 - does anyone know if they're still available? I see that a couple members have built replacements, and I would really appreciate a schematic and/or component values. The location of the multiplier within the scope, and the requirement of potting, will make it difficult to troubleshoot a DIY replacement and I have little high voltage experience. So I'd like to get it in 1 shot.

Is anyone else having issues with TekWiki today? I attempted to look up an instrument, but received a message stating that a login is required. I don’t have an account, so I can’t access anything past that.

Hi all. Looks like the HV transformer in my SC502 oscilloscope has decided to die... Does anyone have one of these they can sell to me and send to Japan? The one in my unit has part number 120-1016-00 (looks to be used in the SC504 too?), but any compatible revision of this part would be fine. I have paypal ready to go. :) Thanks!

My ancient Tektronix 547 oscilloscope with 1A1 plugin was working fine until a few weeks ago when the display suddenly went intermittent and bright, and an arcing sound came from the area of the crt high voltage circuit. No arcing could be seen anywhere, but the sound definitely came from the vicinity of the high voltage assembly. At this point, the Intensity control had no effect, and the intermittent sweeps were very bright. The sweeps only occurred when the arcing sounds were heard. Otherwise, a bright spot stayed on the left side of the display. The focus control also had only a slight effect. Suspecting the flyback transformer T801, I sourced an assembly from another 547 that included the transformer and the voltage multiplier comprised of the 5642 diodes. Symptoms remained the same, unfortunately. Replacing one of the regulator tubes in the 350V supply (6CW5) with a brand new one strangely made the arcing go away, but still no display. In fact, no more intermittent sweeps, only the ultra bright spot at the left hand side of the display. Currently, I have no way of measuring the high voltages from this assembly (10kV), so I’m not sure if they’re within spec. I also changed out the four 0.01uF caps in the Intensity circuit in case they were arcing, but no improvement. Scoping the output of the B Sweep Generator section (at tube V91), there was no sign of a sweep waveform (consistent with the stationary bright dot on the left side of the display). I’ve tested every tube in the scope, except for the 6080s (and checked all transistors for opens or shorts). None gave the impression that they would be show stoppers. I also scoped all B+ and B- rails. All were rock steady except for the +350V line, which had some ripple. Even after changing out the 6CW5, the ripple was still there. It’s obviously generating high voltage as evidenced by the bright spot on the crt. I can’t understand the relationship between the inability to control Intensity and Focus and the lack of a sweep signal. It doesn’t matter whether I’m in A, B or ALT timebases. Could the crt have an internal fault? Any advice or best guesses as to where I should look next would be much appreciated. Thanks in advance.

hey folks I plan to open up my Tek T922 scope in the next couple days to hit all the contacts with contact cleaner & reseat the boards & connectors . It looks like 3 screws on top spine & another 3 screws lower spine . Is there any other fiddleing I need to worry about with the front or rear cover ? thanks animal

Anyone have a manual for the 1424? Wiki Down? Sam

2465B s/n 57xxx When I first powered it up, the lights would all come on for a split second, then they would go out, then it would cycle through the self-tests, failing at TEST 05, so I cleaned up the A5 corrosion and replaced a few components there. I also replaced the RIFAs on the power supply. Following that, when I turn it on, the lights all come on, but they don't go out. All J119 points are well within spec. I am a little confused at times when following the service manual, for example the troubleshooting procedure said TP201 should be +10v, but the schematic seems to indicate it should be +5v, which is what I'm getting. I'm not sure how to proceed at this point. I'd like to go as far as possible before I am forced to buy a new oscilloscope to repair this one. Thanks

<https://www.mill-max.com/products/new/zero-profile-press-fit-receptacles> Cheers, David

Found several at Mouser that I don't know which to order The specs look the same and Mouser couldn't tell me the difference CM7152 CM7153AS15 The first one is 30% cheaper.. Thoughts?

I recently acquired a TDS3054C that appears to be functional in all regards, except that I've had trouble accessing the built in web-server with modern browsers on my Windows 11 laptop or my Apple silicon (M3 Max) MacBook Pro. I've updated the firmware on the 'scope to v 4.31, the most recent available on the Tektronix website. On the Windows 11 laptop (an i7 Lenovo ideapad) recent versions of the Microsoft 'Edge' browser and the Google 'Chrome' browser simply wouldn't render the display windows served up by 'scope. Same for current Safari or Chrome browsers on my Apple silicon MacBook Pro. As a sanity check, I tried viewing the 'scope pages with Internet Explorer and Chrome browsers running on a virtual Windows XP environment (hosted with VMWare Fusion on an i7 iMac). With that setup, I could view static screen-shots of the 'scope display, and the 'scope status window. Also, I could download and upload waveform data. However, I found that the tek.com 'cgi-bin/connect' service doesn't appear to be available. After confirming that the 'scope was actually serving screen-shots and waveform data, I started looking for other 'legacy' browsers that would let me access the 'scope from the Windows 11 laptop. I found that the mypal browser (https://www.mypal-browser.org) did the trick. For accessing the 'scope from my Apple silicon MacBook Pro, the Firefox browser v129.0.2 does a great job. Now, if there was just some way to download the cgi-bin/connect scripts from www.tek.com, or the tek 'escope' site was working, I'd be a happy camper. Mark

There has been some discussion over the years as to how to disassemble the knobs for repair/cleaning. I got mine fully apart (thanks to the photos others uploaded when they got stuck) and uploaded photos. For knobs designed like mine, the black cap pops off and there is a screw underneath. Until the screw is removed, the smaller knob cannot be separated from the larger. The clipped off leads on the LED package allow testing each LED individually if desired; mine have a Vf of ~1.5v. Alternately, 7.5v across the array results in them just starting to glow. The center pin on the left of the array (as oriented in close-up) is common. It seems the transistor on the lower left pin in the array is bad, as it doesn't respond to light; the others do. Does anyone know where to find a 1x5 phototransistor array with spacing of ~1.175mm c-c? The schematics don't show much beyond the fact that the array is biased with +/-15V, and nothing shown in the opto section of the 1982 common design parts catalog looks even remotely close. Regards Mark

mark999 <mpictor@...> added the photo album Tek 7L5 resolution & frequency knob disassembly ( /g/TekScopes/album?id=301996 ) : 7L5 knob encoder disassembly

Greetings! I need to re-letter the skirts for some of my scope knobs. Has anyone done that here? I am thinking that black vinyl reversed letters on transfer stock would work. I found a few sites that provide that service, but I am not sure if they can deal with the small size that would be required. Not sure if a design tool is available online. Other suggestions are welcomed! Thanks, Barry

have a trio of Tek 453's. Two are MOD 703K and the other is MOD 703H. I have had one of the 703K's on my bench for many years. Of late, it has developed trigger issues. I can only get a stable waveform if feed it a square wave. It will not trigger on a sine wave. The other 703K triggers fine, but has a few other issues, chief among them it is missing the center control knob for the sweep control. Not just the knob, but the center shaft. Not clear what is actually missing internally since that control is fairly well buried (as is everything else on these). The 703H has many other issues, stability wise, so it may become a donor for missing knobs/controls, feet etc. Thoughts on the trigger issue?

Hi Group Members! Got a broken TM5006 Mainframe and found a few damaged parts showing a short on my Multimeter. Here the original part #, and now I’m looking for x-Types for those parts. I’d be nice if someone could give me a hint or confirm about the parts I found are fitting! 151-0632-00 some people use MJE13007, or some the MJE13009? 152-0655-00 A115AX39 ??? Can not find this type of rectifiers at all… 152-0400-00 1N4936 152-0686-00 MR821 Any help welcome! Best, Joe

I've got an SG503 on my bench that seems to be working fine on all ranges with nice leveled output, etc. However, the finger contacts under the cam switch need to be cleaned as I have to fiddle with the switch a bit to make contact at some settings. It is my understanding that the best way to clean the finger contacts is to get a piece of paper/cardstock with a bit a 99% isopropyl under the contacts and gently pull it across the contacts. For those who have done this before, my question is what is the best approach to do this with a SG503? Is there a way to do this without a major disassembly? I'm not adverse to disassembling the module but I don't wan't to overcomplicate things if I don't have to. Thanks! Jay