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Looking for data on 9-pin Vacuum time delay relays used in old Tek-scopes
Dear forum,
I have been trying to find datasheets for the Amperite time delay relays used in older Tek scopes. They are built in 9-pin tube glass envelopes. Looked in w140.com but maybe not long enough to find any. No hits by simply googling the type number... Is there someone who knows where to find specs? Cheers Ulf Kylenfall SM6GXV |
Sorry - I included a graphic of the pinout on my first reply, but I guess
it was blocked. Here's the Web site that has it - along with a link to download a PDF. Steve Horii On Sun, Jul 18, 2021 at 3:37 PM ulf_r_k via groups.io <ulf_r_k= [email protected]> wrote: Dear forum, |
Ulf,
I designed these into things about fifty years ago. The Amprite type numbers generally provided the data. For example a 117NO60 would indicate a 117-volt unit with normally-open contacts that would close 60-seconds after power was applied. These thermal delay relays were often used to delay the application of plate voltage until cathodes warmed up. Bruce, KG6OJI |
Bruce,
If you were building a replacement for one of these delay relays (hypothetically speaking, maybe for a 533A), would it be enough to have a timer that cut a relay in after a fixed time? Is that really all that the delay relay is doing? Might there be another way to determine when the heaters are at temperature, like by monitoring the current through the heaters, or even by directly sensing the temperature of the tubes themselves? Just curious (though I am in the process of refurbing a 533A, and this may be useful information when I get to the point of applying power to the instrument) -- Jeff Dutky |
" For instance .
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Albert" Albert; thank you; I had been thinking of this too. In industrial controls, we would use on-shot (Time Delayed) relays too, but they are much larger and bulkier than that tube. I guess someone could design a tiny 555 timer and relay to replace it if needed. An extra aggravating (LOL) step, but yaa got ta do what yaa gotta do. Dave On Sun, Jul 18, 2021 at 4:02 PM Albert Otten <aodiversen@...> wrote:
For instance . |
" If you were building a replacement for one of these delay relays
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(hypothetically speaking, maybe for a 533A), would it be enough to have a timer that cut a relay in after a fixed time? Is that really all that the delay relay is doing?" If its filaments are in the heater chain, something would need to be done to replace the filament of the time tube. Also, if it is in the heater chain in a serial fashion (I don't think they are, eh? I have to study the schematics again), that is a safety factor if one tube's filaments open, that power does not get applied. I am probably overthinking it. a 555 and a S202SE2 SS Relay would probably suffice. Dave On Sun, Jul 18, 2021 at 11:06 PM Jeff Dutky <jeff.dutky@...> wrote:
Bruce, |
A few years ago the time delay relay in my 555 died and lacking a replacement I had to cobble up a substitute. I repurposed an old device I had made to trigger a super 8 movie camera (remember them?) for time lapse. That device was designed to work form a 9 volt battery. I started by rectifying the 6.3 volt supply for the time delay relay using a half wave voltage doubler with the input capacitor deliberately kept to a small value to allow the output voltage across the storage cap to rise slowly. When it got to a suitable level it triggered a SCR through a zener diode to discharge the output cap through the coil of a little relay to close the main scope relay. Once the scope relay pulls in the 6.3 supply is disconnected from the voltage doubler. A reverse biased diode from the storage cap to the +100 volt line removes any residual charge as soon as the scope is switched off so the time delay will function properly next time it's switched on.
There's plenty of room in the 555 power supply for small proto board with the circuit on it. All the parts were in my junque box so the whole thing cost nothing and provided a bit of fun. In retrospect it would have been even simpler to slowly charge a cap from the raw +100 supply which is about +165 volts according to the manual, and use that to trigger the SCR.. Morris |
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