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Those little spools of silver bearing solder that come with each Tek scope don't last long when doing extensive restoration work on beat up scopes. So not long ago I purchased one of those tubes of lead free Sn/4%Ag solder that presumably would be an acceptable replacement. I don't like it, it causes too much clumping when mixing with the original Sn/Pb/Ag solder. The right thing to do in my mind is to wick out the original solder and solder all the leads with the new solder. But the problem I encountered is wicking out solder also removes the silver lining of the lead well (if that's what it's called). So back to the drawiing board? Radio Shack used to sell silver bearing tin-lead solder that seemed to satisfy users according to RS website reviews but now it is discontinued. The Kester and Alpha websites claim they still supply tin/lead solders but there's no mention of silver bearing tin/lead solder in their lineups. I'm all eyes for suggestions :-|
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Hi,
If you log into Yahoo Groups and do a search in the Tekscopes "Message"
section on "silver solder", you will get 256 other messages (besides your
own) that will go into this same silver solder subject in great detail.
tom jobe..
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----- Original Message -----
From: "phosphorphile" <gumbear@...>
To: <TekScopes@...>
Sent: Sunday, December 11, 2011 4:07 AM
Subject: [TekScopes] Back to soldering ceramic terminal strips
Those little spools of silver bearing solder that come with each Tek scope
don't last long when doing extensive restoration work on beat up scopes. So
not long ago I purchased one of those tubes of lead free Sn/4%Ag solder that
presumably would be an acceptable replacement. I don't like it, it causes
too much clumping when mixing with the original Sn/Pb/Ag solder. The right
thing to do in my mind is to wick out the original solder and solder all the
leads with the new solder. But the problem I encountered is wicking out
solder also removes the silver lining of the lead well (if that's what it's
called). So back to the drawiing board? Radio Shack used to sell silver
bearing tin-lead solder that seemed to satisfy users according to RS website
reviews but now it is discontinued. The Kester and Alpha websites claim
they still supply tin/lead solders but there's no mention of silver bearing
tin/lead solder in their lineups. I'm all eyes for suggestions :-|
|
Sn62Pb36Ag2 is still commonly available from Kester as well as other manufacturers. Mouser and Jameco carry it: On Sun, 11 Dec 2011 12:07:38 -0000, "phosphorphile" <gumbear@...> wrote: Those little spools of silver bearing solder that come with each Tek scope don't last long when doing extensive restoration work on beat up scopes. So not long ago I purchased one of those tubes of lead free Sn/4%Ag solder that presumably would be an acceptable replacement. I don't like it, it causes too much clumping when mixing with the original Sn/Pb/Ag solder. The right thing to do in my mind is to wick out the original solder and solder all the leads with the new solder. But the problem I encountered is wicking out solder also removes the silver lining of the lead well (if that's what it's called). So back to the drawiing board? Radio Shack used to sell silver bearing tin-lead solder that seemed to satisfy users according to RS website reviews but now it is discontinued. The Kester and Alpha websites claim they still supply tin/lead solders but there's no mention of silver bearing tin/lead solder in their lineups. I'm all eyes for suggestions :-|
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Is the stuff I used when restoring a 575, I don't recall any issues with it...
Twasn't cheap, but they're local to me..... its 4% Silver, and "leaded".
David
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On Sun, Dec 11, 2011 at 9:04 AM, David <davidwhess@...> wrote: Sn62Pb36Ag2 is still commonly available from Kester as well as other
manufacturers. ?Mouser and Jameco carry it:
On Sun, 11 Dec 2011 12:07:38 -0000, "phosphorphile"
<gumbear@...> wrote:
Those little spools of silver bearing solder that come with each Tek scope don't last long when doing extensive restoration work on beat up scopes. ?So not long ago I purchased one of those tubes of lead free Sn/4%Ag solder that presumably would be an acceptable replacement. ?I don't like it, it causes too much clumping when mixing with the original Sn/Pb/Ag solder. ?The right thing to do in my mind is to wick out the original solder and solder all the leads with the new solder. ?But the problem I encountered is wicking out solder also removes the silver lining of the lead well (if that's what it's called). ?So back to the drawiing board? ?Radio Shack used to sell silver bearing tin-lead solder that seemed to satisfy users according to RS website reviews but now it is discontinued. ?The Kester and Alpha websites claim they still supply tin/lead solders but there's no mention of silver bearing tin/lead solder in their lineups. ?I'm all eyes for suggestions :-|
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Yahoo! Groups Links
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I think that is the commonly available 96% tin, 4% silver solder like the stuff I have from Mouser, MG Chemicals cat. no. 4900-35G, "Lead Free Silver Solder," which is what I'm complaining about. Don't get me wrong, I can make serviceably good joints with the stuff, but when working on a joint that has been trashed by previous work just reflowing and adding this lead free solder doesn't work as well as the original tin-lead-silver solder. I hate scavenging the silver from the ceramic strip also. Maybe it is to be....
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--- In TekScopes@..., David Holland <david.w.holland@...> wrote:
Is the stuff I used when restoring a 575, I don't recall any issues with it...
Twasn't cheap, but they're local to me..... its 4% Silver, and "leaded".
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No, WBT-800 definitely contains lead.
WBT-805 is the lead-free type.
Granted if you go through Parts Express, you do have to get by the
"full sonic potential" phrasing of their website.... (Cause you know
how important "sonic potential" is in your oscilloscope... :-) )
Parts Express has some cheaper 2% stuff, but IIRC, the 575 manual
specified 3% Ag solder, since 3% wasn't available, I figured 4% was
better than 2%. (It probably didn't matter much though.)
David
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On Sun, Dec 11, 2011 at 2:18 PM, phosphorphile <gumbear@...> wrote: I think that is the commonly available 96% tin, 4% silver solder like the stuff I have from Mouser, MG Chemicals cat. no. 4900-35G, "Lead Free Silver Solder," which is what I'm complaining about. ?Don't get me wrong, I can make serviceably good joints with the stuff, but when working on a joint that has been trashed by previous work just reflowing and adding this lead free solder doesn't work as well as the original tin-lead-silver solder. ?I hate scavenging the silver from the ceramic strip also. ?Maybe it is to be....
--- In TekScopes@..., David Holland <david.w.holland@...> wrote:
Is the stuff I used when restoring a 575, I don't recall any issues with it...
Twasn't cheap, but they're local to me..... its 4% Silver, and "leaded".
------------------------------------
Yahoo! Groups Links
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I visited the WBT website and there was no info on content percentages or flux activity. That sucks. BOTOH the stuff is available from many DIY audio perveyors but how many of their customers are repairing Tek scopes? What is your comparative experience using WBT-800 on ceramic strips?
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--- In TekScopes@..., David Holland <david.w.holland@...> wrote:
No, WBT-800 definitely contains lead.
WBT-805 is the lead-free type.
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Furthermore, it seems tin-lead-silver solder is disappearing from the US now. Kester 83-7145-0415 pocket pack Sn62/Pb36/Ag2 is in short supply, only a few in stock at MCM and Newark among a few others, none at Digi-Key and Mouser. Get 'em while they last!!!
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How much of 2% Ag solder do you need?
From the reviews of the WBT-800 solder, it appears to be marketed to the audiofools.
This would account for the high price.
73
Glenn
WB4UIV
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At 03:58 PM 12/11/2011, you wrote: I visited the WBT website and there was no info on content percentages or flux activity. That sucks. BOTOH the stuff is available from many DIY audio perveyors but how many of their customers are repairing Tek scopes? What is your comparative experience using WBT-800 on ceramic strips?
--- In TekScopes@..., David Holland <david.w.holland@...> wrote:
No, WBT-800 definitely contains lead.
WBT-805 is the lead-free type.
------------------------------------
Yahoo! Groups Links
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Nope, there isn't a great deal of details on the WBT website. For
what my limited experience is worth, it worked reasonably well. But
I will mention I didn't have a great many ceramic joints to solder.
(My notes show a surprisingly short list of paper caps on the ceramic
strips in a 575.)
Glenn's later post my be more apropos, and that solder is more
targeted at the audiophools. <shrug> Mebbe I got snookered, but it
did work ok.
David
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On Sun, Dec 11, 2011 at 3:58 PM, phosphorphile <gumbear@...> wrote: I visited the WBT website and there was no info on content percentages or flux activity. ?That sucks. ?BOTOH the stuff is available from many DIY audio perveyors but how many of their customers are repairing Tek scopes? ?What is your comparative experience using WBT-800 on ceramic strips?
--- In TekScopes@..., David Holland <david.w.holland@...> wrote:
No, WBT-800 definitely contains lead.
WBT-805 is the lead-free type.
------------------------------------
Yahoo! Groups Links
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I think the lead-free Sn-Ag alloys also need quite a bit higher temperature to melt, unlike the old-style with Pb, which is closer to eutectic. The higher temperature will aggravate the damage potential on the ceramic strips.
Ed
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--- In TekScopes@..., "phosphorphile" <gumbear@...> wrote:
I think that is the commonly available 96% tin, 4% silver solder like the stuff I have from Mouser, MG Chemicals cat. no. 4900-35G, "Lead Free Silver Solder," which is what I'm complaining about. Don't get me wrong, I can make serviceably good joints with the stuff, but when working on a joint that has been trashed by previous work just reflowing and adding this lead free solder doesn't work as well as the original tin-lead-silver solder. I hate scavenging the silver from the ceramic strip also. Maybe it is to be....
--- In TekScopes@..., David Holland <david.w.holland@> wrote:
Is the stuff I used when restoring a 575, I don't recall any issues with it...
Twasn't cheap, but they're local to me..... its 4% Silver, and "leaded".
|
The WBT site mentions 'lead-based' and not for european markets. With
a melting point of 179C I don't see how it could be Sb. WBT is
right up there with the audiophool suppliers, but even the 2% stuff
from Kester is much pricier than good old 63/37. The spool from
PX is 30 feet or so, so keep it around for ceramic strips and use
conventional solder for conventional purposes.
-ls-
David Holland <david.w.holland@...> wrote:
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Nope, there isn't a great deal of details on the WBT website. For
what my limited experience is worth, it worked reasonably well. But
I will mention I didn't have a great many ceramic joints to solder.
(My notes show a surprisingly short list of paper caps on the ceramic
strips in a 575.)
Glenn's later post my be more apropos, and that solder is more
targeted at the audiophools. <shrug> Mebbe I got snookered, but it
did work ok.
David
On Sun, Dec 11, 2011 at 3:58 PM, phosphorphile <gumbear@...>
wrote:
I visited the WBT website and there was no info on content percentages or flux activity. ?That sucks. ?BOTOH the stuff is
available from many DIY audio perveyors but how many of their
customers are repairing Tek scopes? ?What is your comparative
experience using WBT-800 on ceramic strips?
--- In TekScopes@..., David Holland
<david.w.holland@...> wrote:
No, WBT-800 definitely contains lead.
WBT-805 is the lead-free type.
------------------------------------
Yahoo! Groups Links
------------------------------------
Yahoo! Groups Links
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How about 62/32/2 silver bearing solder(Radio Shack local purchase Califonia within the last year)?
Bob
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--- In TekScopes@..., "phosphorphile" <gumbear@...> wrote:
Those little spools of silver bearing solder that come with each Tek scope don't last long when doing extensive restoration work on beat up scopes. So not long ago I purchased one of those tubes of lead free Sn/4%Ag solder that presumably would be an acceptable replacement. I don't like it, it causes too much clumping when mixing with the original Sn/Pb/Ag solder. The right thing to do in my mind is to wick out the original solder and solder all the leads with the new solder. But the problem I encountered is wicking out solder also removes the silver lining of the lead well (if that's what it's called). So back to the drawiing board? Radio Shack used to sell silver bearing tin-lead solder that seemed to satisfy users according to RS website reviews but now it is discontinued. The Kester and Alpha websites claim they still supply tin/lead solders but there's no mention of silver bearing tin/lead solder in their lineups. I'm all eyes for suggestions :-|
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The solubility of silver in tin increases with temperature and for 63/37 solder is about 7% at 600F: 4% will be better than 2% but 2% will be better than 0% and it helps to use a lower temperature iron if possible. Tektronix apparently used 3% silver. Another option might be to use solder with less tin content like Sn30Pb70. I suspect indium/lead, indium/silver, or just indium would work for the same reason they work with gold but they are very expensive. Applying heat for a shorter amount of time or using a lower temperature will help. I have a set of 600F tips for my Weller Magnastat irons and would use the larger tip in preference to a smaller one for maximum heat transfer in a short time. I have actually found a lower temperature useful in general rework as well even if I have to apply the iron for a longer period of time. I found the above link looking for information on soldering to gold for that 7A18 plug-in I posted about earlier. Gold acts similar to silver but with the added complication of embrittlement when the concentration reaches 3% plus interface issues cause by migration at the boundary between the gold and solder over time. On Mon, 12 Dec 2011 00:20:58 -0000, "Robert" <go_boating_fast@...> wrote: How about 62/32/2 silver bearing solder(Radio Shack local purchase Califonia within the last year)?
Bob
--- In TekScopes@..., "phosphorphile" <gumbear@...> wrote:
Those little spools of silver bearing solder that come with each Tek scope don't last long when doing extensive restoration work on beat up scopes. So not long ago I purchased one of those tubes of lead free Sn/4%Ag solder that presumably would be an acceptable replacement. I don't like it, it causes too much clumping when mixing with the original Sn/Pb/Ag solder. The right thing to do in my mind is to wick out the original solder and solder all the leads with the new solder. But the problem I encountered is wicking out solder also removes the silver lining of the lead well (if that's what it's called). So back to the drawiing board? Radio Shack used to sell silver bearing tin-lead solder that seemed to satisfy users according to RS website reviews but now it is discontinued. The Kester and Alpha websites claim they still supply tin/lead solders but there's no mention of silver bearing tin/lead solder in their lineups. I'm all eyes for suggestions :-|
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I think you meant 62/36/2. As I mentioned Radio Shack discontinued their tin-lead silver bearing solder.
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How about 62/32/2 silver bearing solder(Radio Shack local purchase Califonia within the last year)?
Bob
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Yes, you are correct, my typo. the roll in front of me shows 62\36\
2
Also See
If you click on the little "manual" symbol underneath the picture, it takes you to another page where you can click on an MSMDS link to get more details. Is looks like it is still available.
Bob
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--- In TekScopes@..., "phosphorphile" <gumbear@...> wrote:
I think you meant 62/36/2. As I mentioned Radio Shack discontinued their tin-lead silver bearing solder.
How about 62/32/2 silver bearing solder(Radio Shack local purchase Califonia within the last year)?
Bob
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Radio Shack runs one of the sloppiest websites on the net, manuals, among other things, don't get taken down when they should be. Let me know if you really can still get 62/36/2 solder from them.
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If you click on the little "manual" symbol underneath the picture, it takes you to another page where you can click on an MSMDS link to get more details. Is looks like it is still available.
Bob
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I just purchased 2 rolls at my local Radio Shack (Rochester NY) last month.
It still shows up as in-stock at all the local stores.
When I looked up stock for Los Angeles stores, it also shows up as in-stock.
Jon
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I just picked up a 1.5 ounce spool last month from RS 62/36/2. Get it while you can before the lead nazis catch up with them.
From: phosphorphile
To: TekScopes@...
Sent: Tuesday, December 13, 2011 11:47 PM
Subject: [TekScopes] Re: Back to soldering ceramic terminal strips
Radio Shack runs one of the sloppiest websites on the net,
manuals, among other things, don't get taken down when they should be.? Let me know if you really can still get 62/36/2 solder from them. > If you click on the little "manual" symbol underneath the picture, it takes you to another page where you can click on an MSMDS link to get more details. Is looks like it is still available. > Bob ------------------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: ? ? <*> Your email settings: ? ? Individual Email | Traditional <*> To change settings online go to: ? ? ? ? (Yahoo! ID required) <*> To change
settings via email: ? ? TekScopes-digest@... ? ? TekScopes-fullfeatured@...<*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: ? ? TekScopes-unsubscribe@...<*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: ? ?
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Confirmed. While Xmas shopping yesterday at the Sherman Oaks Mall in LA I stopped in at the Radio shack and found two Radio Shack part # 65-035 for $6 each. I bought them both....
George
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--- In TekScopes@..., Jon Fleig <vibrolax@...> wrote:
I just purchased 2 rolls at my local Radio Shack (Rochester NY) last month.
It still shows up as in-stock at all the local stores.
When I looked up stock for Los Angeles stores, it also shows up as in-stock.
Jon
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KB6NAX
David Hess
Glydeck