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K213 Instrument Cart Drawer Jammed

 

After many years, I attempted to open the drawer. I was successful, but it didn't open smoothly and I cannot close it now. Looking underneath, there is a plate covering everything but the last 3 1/2 to 4 inches at the rear of the cart. The front of the drawer is in this gap, and I think it is hitting the plate, preventing it from closing. Tilting the drawer up to clear doesn't help. I assume this area allows the drawer to be removed, something like removing a file cabinet drawer, but no luck there.

I'm guessing I'm missing something obvious, so before removing the scope and tipping the cart over, I thought I would ask the group. I've been retired for over 20 years, so can't go the lab and ask one of the tech's.

Jim
 

Are there locks on the drawer slides that drop into place when you pull it all thew way out? If so you push in on them, while closing the drawer.


Michael A. Terrell

-----Original Message-----
From: Jim Hill <slimjimwas@...>
Sent: Jun 29, 2018 6:53 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: [TekScopes] K213 Instrument Cart Drawer Jammed

After many years, I attempted to open the drawer. I was successful,
but it didn't open smoothly and I cannot close it now. Looking
underneath, there is a plate covering everything but the last 3 1/2
to 4 inches at the rear of the cart. The front of the drawer is in
this gap, and I think it is hitting the plate, preventing it from
closing. Tilting the drawer up to clear doesn't help. I assume this
area allows the drawer to be removed, something like removing a file
cabinet drawer, but no luck there.

I'm guessing I'm missing something obvious, so before removing the
scope and tipping the cart over, I thought I would ask the
group. I've been retired for over 20 years, so can't go the lab and
ask one of the tech's.
 

After much fiddling around, I managed to close the drawer, put the scope on it's side and remove the bottom plate. There is nothing sophisticated like tabs to move when removing the drawer. It is just painted metal sliding on painted metal. I'm unable to remove the drawer, but fortunately don't need to do so. The drawer just binds when attempting to open or close, and if you give it a good try, it jams. I will try using paste floor wax on the sliding surfaces and see if that helps.
Jim

At 05:24 PM 6/29/2018, Michael A. Terrell wrote:
Are there locks on the drawer slides that drop into place when you pull it all thew way out? If so you push in on them, while closing the drawer.


Michael A. Terrell


-----Original Message-----
From: Jim Hill <slimjimwas@...>
Sent: Jun 29, 2018 6:53 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: [TekScopes] K213 Instrument Cart Drawer Jammed

After many years, I attempted to open the drawer. I was successful,
but it didn't open smoothly and I cannot close it now. Looking
underneath, there is a plate covering everything but the last 3 1/2
to 4 inches at the rear of the cart. The front of the drawer is in
this gap, and I think it is hitting the plate, preventing it from
closing. Tilting the drawer up to clear doesn't help. I assume this
area allows the drawer to be removed, something like removing a file
cabinet drawer, but no luck there.

I'm guessing I'm missing something obvious, so before removing the
scope and tipping the cart over, I thought I would ask the
group. I've been retired for over 20 years, so can't go the lab and
ask one of the tech's.
 

Try using a bar of soap for lubricant. It won't affect the paint, and it has worked well for hundreds of years.


Michael A. Terrell

-----Original Message-----
From: Jim Hill <slimjimwas@...>
Sent: Jul 1, 2018 5:04 PM
To: [email protected], [email protected]
Subject: Re: [TekScopes] K213 Instrument Cart Drawer Jammed

After much fiddling around, I managed to close the drawer, put the
scope on it's side and remove the bottom plate. There is nothing
sophisticated like tabs to move when removing the drawer. It is just
painted metal sliding on painted metal. I'm unable to remove the
drawer, but fortunately don't need to do so. The drawer just binds
when attempting to open or close, and if you give it a good try, it
jams. I will try using paste floor wax on the sliding surfaces and
see if that helps.
Chuck Harris
 

I kind of doubt that it is painted metal on painted
metal.

Every scope cart drawer that I have seen has a few
holes at their ends that hold little plastic buttons
that the drawer glides on. They don't become painted
metal on painted metal until the nylon/delrin buttons
disintegrate.

-Chuck Harris

Jim Hill wrote:

After much fiddling around, I managed to close the drawer, put the scope on it's side
and remove the bottom plate. There is nothing sophisticated like tabs to move when
removing the drawer. It is just painted metal sliding on painted metal. I'm unable
to remove the drawer, but fortunately don't need to do so. The drawer just binds when
attempting to open or close, and if you give it a good try, it jams. I will try
using paste floor wax on the sliding surfaces and see if that helps.
Jim


At 05:24 PM 6/29/2018, Michael A. Terrell wrote:
Are there locks on the drawer slides that drop into place when you pull it all thew
way out? If so you push in on them, while closing the drawer.


Michael A. Terrell
 

I didn't realize I had that exact same scopemobile, here are some pictures of the drawer that may or may not help :

/g/TekScopes/album?id=62217

As you can see there are no runners or anything, and the thing at the top of the back obviously keeps it from falling out. In the last picture you can see that the drawer is lockable by that hole, which I checked and it does have corresponding hole on the main thing. (I don't want to call it a mainframe of course)

As far as I can see, you probably need brute strength to get it to come out. If it is not locked then, what else is there ? No rails no nothing. It just fits in the space.

In the back it seems to have a recess but it ends with a piece of sheet metal that blocks any attempt to push from the rear. The handle is attached by 2 screws and that's it. Your work is not cut out for you.

My best recommendation at this time is to pry between the lo locking surface you see in the last of the photos where it mates with the main thing. Ideally if you have the right prying tool (fat chance) you should attempt to attack it from the side as high as possible, as close to the drawer and the frame as you can get to avoid bending it all up.

Sorry I didn't catch this earlier, there is a handle from a 422 that's been giving me the blues obscuring the model number. Nit bottom line, there are no complex runners or rollers or any of that shit. Looks like they wanted to hold to the KISS theory on that.

If you have other people around you might be better off prying on all the points at once, that should minimize any damage. Two on the handle, two on the bottom. One guy each side. Or your olady if you have one, this is not like pulling a car out of a ditch.

(one time when I was young the cops gave us until the tow truck got there to get my car out of the ditch, we did ! I was driving sideways on slicks through the park with ice and snow. If that wasn't stooopid enough, I had bald tires in the front, three guys pushing and me on the clutch to get us out)

Anyway, a bit of "friendly" persuasion should do it.

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