开云体育

eBay Item Number: 160076608104.

Didn't pay much. Seller had stellar feedback; though a little low.
Anyhow, I notice that my feedback went down a point; "Garsh, what have
I done?!".

Turns out this person is no longer a registered user, eBay speak for,
SOL. His feedback was removed from my score; so what, big whoop.

However, I can't get my money back, $15.00, er 14.99. I can't even
get ahold of the contact information anymore so that I can originate a
small claim and file fraudulent charges here. That way, everything is
forwarded, yadda, yadda, yadda.

I hope that nothing has happened to this seller. Deaths, sickness,
bills, etc. does happen. On that I'm very aware. Has anyone bought
anything from this seller? Would you also happen to have any info?

I'd sure appreciate it! I haven't gotten a reply or anything.

Thanks.

We need to move with one voice on eBay to get something done.
Something. Maybe a group endoresement of a solution? Dunno.
Suggestions?

Laters.

This is all very true, but lye is used in cleaning aluminum. When
I was a wee lad of 16, I did some anodizing commercially, and the first
step was to take the aluminum object, and put it into a 100F heated
tank of NaOH (lye). The concentration was such that it made your hands
feel very soapy. The aluminum objects went next into a rinse tank, and
then into a tank of sulfuric acid where a small current was applied.
After the sulfuric acid, the parts went straight into a dye tank, and
then straight into boiling water. The boiling water closed the aluminum
oxide cells, and trapped the color.

That said, never put lye, or any other alkaline, on aluminum. It will
do great damage if it isn't done in a very controlled fashion. You can't
do it in a controlled fashion to a finished piece of equipment like a scope.

Follow Stan's instructions, and wash with a mild detergent, such as Simple
Green, and rinse in deionized water. Keep the transformers out of the
water stream. Fashion a convection oven out of a large cardboard box,
and a heater, and a fan, and cook the scope at 50C (~120F) for 24 hours.

-Chuck Harris

Don Black wrote:

Definitely don't put Lye (caustic soda) anywhere near aluminium, it will dissolve it. It was commonly used to clean cast iron cylinder heads of carbon, etc. which it does very well, however on aluminium heads it's a disaster. One case was an aluminium motor cycle head that was "cleaned" by looping a wire through the inlet and exhaust valve ports to support it in a lye bath. When withdrawn all that remained on the wire were two stellite rings (the valve seats) and a pool of sludge in the tank bottom ( the dissolved aluminium head). Ouch!!!
Don Black.

theardvark2003 wrote:

To bulk transport Aluminum it is dissolved in concentrated Lye. I
would NOT suggest cleaning aluminum with any kind of Lye solution
unless you want to dissolve the scope.

Hi Mark,
I'm not sure if I'm right about this but I seem to remember past warnings on some of these "modern" scopes having inadequate cooling with the covers removed. The airflow isn't directed across some of the boards correctly and the run hot. I think it's necessary to provide extra air flow from an external fan with the covers off. Someone else with better knowledge of these scopes will say whether I'm right or not, meanwhile don't run the scope to avoid any risk of overheating and damage.
Don Black.

Mark wrote:

I have a 7A19 plugin which has an input impedance of 50 ohms. Why was
this input impedance selected ??.(most scopes are 1M ohm). What
happens if you use a high impedance probe with this plug in?? What is
the "correct" probe to be used with the 7A19?

Where to start? It is almost like starting a course in basic high frequency
electronics. First thing to do is read Tek's "ABC of Probes" from Tek's
website. Next, if you can get a copy read Tek's Circuit Concept Series
book-ets "Oscilloscope Probe Circuits" and "Probe Measurements", both
published in the late '60s but entirely relevant to probes today.

Finally, get a book on basic electronics and read about impedance matching.

But the long and the short of it is: Wide bandwidth plugins need to operate
at the characteristic impedance of the cable - of which the overwhelming
standard is 50 ohms (there is also 75 and 93 at least). If you use a 1M
scope probe you will at best get strange results, and a very tiny signal at
the plugin. You need what is called a Z0 probe like the P6056 (10x) or
P6057 (100x).

Essentially, if you don't really understand any of this, you don't need a
7A19.

Craig

Seconding Thanks!
for including in these reports.. the nasty little mechano details that Tek (and most others') manuals never give space to.

Indeed, absent a lab stockroom - the lowly ball-point pen appears to be a prime source for tiny brass tubing. I also advocate, when in surplus depots - picking up several sizes/lengths of solid round glass/epoxy sticks. These can sub for many missing pieces, with imagineered connectors to the remaining ends.. collars with Allen screws, for ex. Obv. fine for HV-elevated pots, too.

Have seen more than one 485 with the red variable Vert knobs sheared off
(having been left in the 'out' position while scope was dragged behind a ravaging tribe of Tatars or, such others as say, "Arrrrr... mateys" quite a lot.)

Carrion,

Ashton

D. Dufresne wrote:

Unit origin and identification;
The unit is a Tektronix CG 5011 Programmable Calibration Generator,
serial number is B010905, option 01. Date of manufacture is probably
early 1992, from device date codes. Unit was purchased on eBay.
Repairs where done on the front panel just before this failure.
Symptoms; I had just repaired this unit for another fault related to the front
panel assembly, AI. At power on the unit does a lamp test. In the
right hand window display the left-most character did not light up. It used to work before that last repair.
Repair;

-------------------< snip >--------------

Inspect
all the connector pins and carefully bend them back into proper
alignment in both axis. Inspect the mating part on the front panel
for obstruction or defect. Install the front panel back being careful
to make sure all the pins are properly aligned. When the pins are
mated do not push in yet. Reattach the two pull tabs. If they do not
go all in, check that the small bump on the bottom of the unit, has
not caught the assembly, if so just use a small tool and push the
protrusion up into the unit to free the tab so it is pulled back by
the spring. Push the front panel so the connectors pins go straight
in. Inspect. Replace all 18 screws, you may have to push the EMC
gasket out of the way to properly insert the screws. Re-install the
two side covers. Install in a TM 5000 series power supply. Apply
power. My unit was now fully operational.
Analysis;
The mis-connected pin on A1J1521, pin 1, carries the signal for the
left-most character on display DS1501, see schematic Front Panel
Display "1" in the manual. Without any power to the display it would
not operate. Since there was no other device connected there should
be no collateral damage or parts to replace except to realign the bent
pin.
Daniel from Ville Saint-Laurent, Qc, Canada. D22dufresne ( at ) yahoo
( the usual dot ) ca.

Hi Ron,



Thanks for the kind words. By the way, the original Tek paint is lacquer,
too, and I got it from the same place Tek did . . .



Stan & Patricia



_____

From: Ron Simmons [mailto:RJSimmons@...]
Sent: Friday, February 09, 2007 7:47 PM
To: 'Stan and Patricia Griffiths'; 'Ashton Brown'
Cc: 'TekScopes'
Subject: RE: [TekScopes] Re: AM501 Stuff (op-amp references)



Hi Stan, It looks like the Tektronix engineer you're talking about is a
huge winner of the "He who dies with the most "toys" wins!!!" contest.God
bless him!!

Although the other part of the saying is "He who dies BROKE with the most
toys wins". Sounds like he left his widow in good shape financially.God
bless him and her.



Stan, I bought some Tek Blue paint today from Patricia and if this "bonanza"
of Tek antiquities that you just acquired is what it sounds like , I'll be
buying more stuff!!



To the Group.. I bought some "Tek Blue" paint from Stan and Patricia
(today) and some last fall that I used to paint/ touched up about ten 400
series cabinets with INCREDIBLE results !!!.

It's lacquer and it's stinky but what a job it does!!! If you have a Tek
scope that you "love" buy a can of Stan and Patricia's "Tek Blue" . highly
recommended !!!!



On a different subject. as usual, Deane Kidd comes up "large "again!! Who
else would have a "timing IC Tek # 155- 0021 xx ??? that fixes a broken 7904
so beautifully !!!

What I love about Deane the most is that you E-mail him and ask him for a
"hen's tooth" and he replies with an email describing four different
potential Tek part numbers and then asks "what color do you want?"



Seriously folks, we are all fortunate to have Stan and Patricia and Deane E.
Kidd as invaluable resources of Tektronix knowledge and parts!



Regards to all,



Ron Simmons

Hi Larry,

You might have known him. His name was Larry Lockwood.

Stan

Bill R wrote:

Hi, Michael:

The aluminum chassis in Tek scopes has been Alodized or Anodized (I can't remember which process is used). This process cleans the surface and hardens it. I'm no chemist, but I think part of that process uses potash. If you use potash to clean it I think your chassis surface will be changed (will not look good).

Any chem heads correct me please.

Bill Roberts

michael.petereit@... wrote:

Dave,

I fond that thread but it didn't gave that conclusion.
I used alcohol for slight mud, this scope was placed in a dirty an humid cellar for years without it's coverage.

The aluminium is best cleaned by caustic potash but it will eat up tin too.
Thus I tried with a industrial cleaner which worked pretty good. In the area of the high voltage transformator I didn't used anything else than alcohol. I was afraid of getting shorts by using chemical stuff.

I try to build up ths voltage divider to measure the high voltage.
BR,
Michael

-------------------< snip >---------------------------

I did some Jr. Chemist duty, once -

In a word, re LYE and Aluminum/Aluminium: NO!
Here's just a random quip on a "aluminum + lye effects" Search, yielding 61K hits:




Basically.. (no pun intended) NaOH or KOH wil proceed to dissolve the aluminum, reaction rates depending on temp and concentration.
Note in above link, that: Drano??? IS: *aluminum chips and lye* !!

I suppose that, where some combo of moisture + strange chemicals has already deeply discolored, even made flaky? some chassis part --
a Q-tip with some ~20% lye solution, followed by vinegar, then baking soda (to buffer and neutralize before a final water wash) -- might do a bit more good than harm -??- but that is a crap shoot. Getting the Most-alkaline / ie most 'Base'-ic substance there is, all over random electronics would, I think qualify more as demolition than refurbishment.

There are very powerful industrial detergents which can be tried, sparingly, for such areas as are truly grungy -- else I'd hark back to Kelite??? and the techniques in Stan Griffiths' "Restoring ..." book - for anything like a general washing. There are several threads here, years back - with variants on this theme. One can.. spot-clean an entire scope, if unwilling to improvise a lo-temp convection oven - just savor the pristine areas as they appear, then merge and suddenly you realize: I Did the Whole Thing [!]
Did that on a 503 once == quite smaller than a 535.

Luck,
Ashton

Hi Dave,



You caught me red-handed! I actually DO have a few 4000 series instruments
I did not admit to. I have at least two 4041's and a bunch of tapes but I
don't know if I have a boot tape or not. How would I know it was the right
thing if I had it in my hand? I have a bunch of Tek keyboards, too, but,
again, I'm not sure one of them (or more) is for the 4041 . . .



Stan

_____

From: TekScopes@... [mailto:TekScopes@...] On Behalf
Of Dave Brown
Sent: Friday, February 09, 2007 7:25 PM
To: TekScopes
Subject: Re: [TekScopes] tek 4051 computer

Hi Chris,



For a quick check of the 492 Reference Level you can use the 492's built in
calibrator signal. It puts out a -20dBm signal at its fundamental frequency
of 100 MHz. There are lots of harmonics of the 100 MHz, too, but they are
not specified to be any particular amplitude. So with the calibrator cabled
to the input, the 100 MHz calibrator signal should just be at the top of the
screen when the 492 is set for a Reference Level of -20dBm. With the
vertical display set at 10 dB per division, you should be able to change the
Reference Level in 10 dB steps and see the 100 MHz Calibrator signal change
by I division per step. You can also make some checks on the attenuator as
it can be changed in 10 dB steps independently of the Reference Level
control. There are two front panel screw driver adjustments that can help
you make the reference level correct. There are also two front panel screw
driver adjustments for correctly positioning the trace on the screen.
Assuming your 492 is not broken, plug the calibrator into the input and
tweak on those controls. I think you will find their functions to be pretty
obvious after you play with them for awhile.



Stan



_____

From: TekScopes@... [mailto:TekScopes@...] On Behalf
Of Chris Johnson
Sent: Friday, February 09, 2007 6:57 PM
To: TekScopes@...
Subject: [TekScopes] I should know this but I want to be sure...regarding
492 SA



I just want to double-check some basic assumptions regarding the
operation of a 492, or any spectrum analyzer, for that matter.

Suppose I want to do a quick check of the unit's level calibration, at
the 0 dBM reference level.

Signal generator: Set to a frequency within the range of the 492,
output set to 0 dBM. Say it's 500 MHz, not that it really matter.

On the 492, sweep (time/div control) set to auto. Attenuator at 0 dB.

Now, where to set the reference level? I'm asking this because I know
that the visible noise floor varies according to the span setting and
also according to the resolution bandwidth. (This unit has the 100
Hz resolution option as well as the calibrated preselector and also
digital storage, options 01, 02, and 03). Also the indicated signal
strength can be changed according to whether or not the minimum noise
option is being used, and which video filter is engaged.

So, what are the settings that I SHOULD be using to verify the
accuracy of the unit with a 0 dBM reference signal?

I know that I want the signal to peak at the top of the scale, the 0
dBM reference level. If it's properly calibrated and I'm in the right
operating mode, it'll do that.

I seek confirmation of what the settings should be for that right
operating mode.

The more detailed the info, the better. Knob by knob, setting by
setting, would be idea.

Any help would be appreciated.

Thank you very much for your thorough write-ups. The broken "Variable"
shaft is a common problem with these units. I experimented with trying to
solve this through frontal attachment to the remaining shaft but did not
find a viable solution. I was fortunate enough to be able to buy a complete
replacement switch but have not yet installed it.

- Greg


_____

From: TekScopes@... [mailto:TekScopes@...] On Behalf
Of D. Dufresne
Sent: Saturday, February 10, 2007 3:52 PM
To: TekScopes@...
Subject: [TekScopes] CG 5010 / CG 5011 Programmable Calibration Generator,
Broken "Variable" Switch P



Unit origin and identification;
The unit is a Tektronix CG 5011 Programmable Calibration Generator,
serial number is B010905, option 01. Date of manufacture is probably
early 1992, from device date codes. Unit was purchased on eBay. The
unit was advertized as missing this knob.

Symptoms;
The "Variable" button was missing. The "Units / Div" button was
split. The worst was that the "Variable" shaft, plastic, was broken
just off the end of the "Units / Div" shaft. Both buttons and shafts
are concentric. The two function are done with a single dual
concentric switch A1SW1121. It is made by Standard Grisby of Aurora
Il, USA, for Tektronix. Tektronix part number is 260-2500-00, SWITCH,
ROTARY: FRONT PANEL, CG5010, manufacturer 80009 (Tektronix).

Repair;
Not wanting to buy another CG 5011 or a rare part for something that
could be fixable, I tried to repair it myself. I succeeded.

Remove the unit from it's power supply by pulling on the two
lock-tabs. With two tabs and many PWB assemblies connected to the
power supply, a measurably large force is required to pull the plug-in
from the power supply.

Disassemble the front panel by removing all 18 screws that hold the
front panel to the rest of the unit. There are 6 screws on the bottom
side and 9 on the top side. You will need a phillips type
screwdriver for this. Remove the two side covers. Gently pull on the
front panel to create a small gap. Disconnect the two pull tabs by
pushing down a bit until the rear end slips up and out of the mating
part. Pull the front panel further out until all the pins are free and
you have some work space. If you fold the front panel face down this
should allow easy access because all the wires are connected near the
bottom. Using a small hexagonal key remove the remaining knob.

Remove the screws that hold the assembly to the front panel proper.
Remove the assembly.

Use a 0.5 inch open end wrench remove the nut holding the switch to
the front panel. Remove the lock nut. Carefully unsolder the 6 pins, 3
per side, that hold the switch to the front panel. I used a solder
sucker and then heating the solder pad I wiggled the pins one by one
and let them cool while moving them constantly. When all the pins are
free, pull the switch out.

Clean the pins of any leftover solder. Inspect the switch. You will
notice it is made of two printed wire boards, PWBs, that hold the pins
and a plastic housing. The rear PWB is the "Variable" part of the
switch. Using a sharp utility knife cut off the 8 plastic tabs that
hold the PWB to the switch. You should be able to pry the PWB off the
switch. Remove the PWB and the rotor assembly. You may need to push
on the central shaft with a small tool or hard wire. Keep all the
parts safely. Take the broken shaft and inspect it, at the rear end
there is a small flat piece of plastic that engages into the rotor
assembly that holds the moving fingers that make contact with the PWB.
Carefully remove the rotor from the shaft.

The shaft external diameter is nominally 0.125 inch. First inspect
the shaft for any visible defect and correct them. File the front end
of the shaft flat and clean.

Locate a piece of plastic that is 0.125 inch outside diameter. I
found that the ink reservoir and dispenser of low cost pen to be the
right size. You may have to check a few different brands and models
to find one. If you are lucky the pen ink is all gone. If not, cut
it off above the two dents that hold the spring in place and discard
the ink. Hours later, when you have removed the ink from the plastic
cylinder and from yourself, your clothes and half your house, you are
ready to do some real work. By the way nail polish remover worked OK
on the ink in my plastic tube.

Use a file and file away the end on about 0.125 inch long of the
broken shaft to create a smaller shaft, concentric with the broken one
and straight so the plastic tube can be slipped at the end. I had to
redo this part, the first try was offset and crooked. When the fit is
acceptable and straight check that the new extended shaft slips easily
into the outer shaft. If not file away any bumps or obstructions.
When all is finally OK mixup a small amount of epoxy and apply to two
shafts separately and then mate. Make sure all is straight, leave to
harden as per epoxy maker instruction.

Original shaft, new smaller end, side view
-----------------
I--------
I I
I--------
------------------
When dry, remove any excess epoxy and check for fit again in the outer
shaft. Make sure it fits OK. Reassemble the rotor and the PWB onto
the switch. Check that all is still OK by rotating the new extended
shaft in both directions for one full rotation. The PWB should snap
tight on the switch assembly and hold tight, if not use some hot glue.
Hot glue can be removed for repairs later.

Reassemble the switch onto the Front Panel with the lock washer and
the nut. Tighten but not too much. Solder only after having
installed and tightened the nut otherwise if you solder before
installing the nut this will put mechanical stress on the soldered
connections and this is bad.

Install the assembly to the front panel with the screws.

Install the front panel back being careful to make sure all the pins
in the 50 circuits connector are properly aligned. When the pins are
mated do not push in yet.

Reattach the two pull tabs. If they do not go all in, check that the
small bump on the bottom of the unit, has not caught the assembly, if
so just use a small tool and push the protrusion up into the unit to
free the tab so it is pulled back by the spring. Find a replacement
knob for the missing "Variable". Replace the "Units / Div" knob.
Check the length of the new shaft and the new knob and cut the new
shaft to fit the knob. Install the "Variable" knob.

Push the front panel so the connectors pins go straight in. Inspect.
Replace all 18 screws, you may have to push the EMC gasket out of the
way to properly insert the screws. Re-install the two side covers.

Install in a TM 5000 series power supply. Apply power. My unit was
now fully operational.

Optional;
You could also replace the shaft completely. Remove the plastic flat
end piece on the original shaft. This flat part inserts into the
rotor. Replace the shaft has a whole, use epoxy to glue the end
piece. Easier. No filing, I hate paperwork.

Analysis;
Please do not break shafts.

Hope this helps someone.
Thanks

Daniel from Ville Saint-Laurent, Qc, Canada. D22dufresne ( at ) yahoo
( the usual dot ) ca.

I use a P6201 w/ all the accessories except the ground
lead. Looks unused and will prolly stay that way, as
I don't use it very much. In my applications, it's
hardly needed; you know, verifying that something
works.

I didn't know that there was a P6201A. However, I've
owned a P6202 & P6202A. They are cheaper and
accessories are run-of-the-mill miniature I believe.
I've since sold both and a P6201.

Be careful w/ the P6201's. I've seen several examples
that were unable to be compensated without going
internal. The P6201 that I've left didn't require
adjustment. It was spot on from the door.

Make sure to observe the dynamic range. That is the
downside. The FET circuitry can be overloaded easily
and driven into non-linearity as far as amplitude
goes.

The plus side for the P6201 is that it has a 1X
setting. For those really small signals, its a lovely
way to go. I often have to pull it out for use with
counters when checking the frequency of low power rf
stuff.

Cheers.

Oh yes, the P6202 has an integral power supply--Nice!
However, it's cumbersome to pack in its case. Also
the P6201 examples during the summer in shops without
air conditioning can get a bit warm.

Take the time to crack a P6201 open: they are works
of art, from the attenuators on down, just beautiful.
Who says when form follows function, it has to be a
beast?!

Laters.



____________________________________________________________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Everyone is raving about the all-new Yahoo! Mail beta.

My Tektronix 310A scope, pulled from a smoke-filled, dusty, harsh
environment did not work when i got it. Thanks in great part to the
people here, i have been able to repair this scope, and while it still
needs some serious adjustments, it is showing a trace, and has usable
bandwith out to 4Mhz, just like it's spec'd for. the timebase had a
bad 6922, a bad link cap, and a bad 6AN8A. after replacing the tubes,
and the capacitor, i finally got the sweep working, then started on
adjustments untill i got it to sweep correctly and show an accurate
waveform.

Thanks to all who've offered help and services, and especially to
BAMA, for having the manuals needed.

My next project is to replicate a lesser oscilloscope, then slowly
build my way back up, until i can produce a 'scope to equal a Tek tube
'scope.

Jake

get a 6201a active probe . thats what i use

More, Ron -

I checked the 1975 catalog. It lists the P6056 as X10 and P6057 as X100, both working into 50 Ohm scope input. There is a super probe out there, a FET probe, P6201 that goes to 900 megaHz and terminates in 50 Ohm or 1 megOhm inputs. If you find a working one for less than $100.00, with all accessories, consider yourself lucky.

Bill

HBcubed wrote:

Ron,

The 7A19 is a very wideband instrument. An input impedance of 1 megohm and 20 or 25 pf would cause it to roll off to quickly, limiting its bandwidth.

You can use a probe designed to work with 50 ohm inputs. A X 10 probe will look like 500 ohms at the probe tip, a X100 probe will look like 5000 ohms. There are some probes out there that have switchable input Zs for those applications where you are not using the total bandwidth. Check one of the old catalogs.

Best Regards

Bill Roberts

HBcubed wrote:

I have a 7A19 plugin which has an input impedance of 50 ohms. Why was
this input impedance selected ??.(most scopes are 1M ohm). What
happens if you use a high impedance probe with this plug in?? What is
the "correct" probe to be used with the 7A19?

Thanks for any replies.

Ron Simmons

Unit origin and identification;
The unit is a Tektronix CG 5011 Programmable Calibration Generator,
serial number is B010905, option 01. Date of manufacture is probably
early 1992, from device date codes. Unit was purchased on eBay.
Repairs where done on the front panel just before this failure.

Symptoms;
I had just repaired this unit for another fault related to the front
panel assembly, AI. At power on the unit does a lamp test. In the
right hand window display the left-most character did not light up.
It used to work before that last repair.

Repair;
Remove the unit from it's power supply by pulling on the two
lock-tabs. With two tabs and many PWB assemblies connected to the
power supply, a measurably large force is required to pull the plug-in
from the power supply. Disassemble the front panel by removing all 18
screws that hold the front panel to the rest of the unit. There are 6
screws on the bottom side and 9 on the top side. You will need a
phillips type screwdriver for this. Remove the two side covers.
Gently pull on the front panel to create a small gap. Disconnect the
two pull tabs by pushing down a bit until the rear end slips out of
the mating part. Pull the front panel away some more but not too much.
You will see one or more pins that are not mated on connector
A1J1521, female header. It is at the left side of the A1 assembly,
Front Panel, and is mounted vertically. It is a 50 circuits dual row
header type connector. On my instrument pin one, the top right pin of
mating male connector on Main Interconnect Board, A2J1200, was bent
and had not made contact with the mating part on A1. Pull the front
panel further out until all the pins are free and you have some work
space. If you fold the front panel face down this should allow easy
access because all the wires are connected near the bottom. Inspect
all the connector pins and carefully bend them back into proper
alignment in both axis. Inspect the mating part on the front panel
for obstruction or defect. Install the front panel back being careful
to make sure all the pins are properly aligned. When the pins are
mated do not push in yet. Reattach the two pull tabs. If they do not
go all in, check that the small bump on the bottom of the unit, has
not caught the assembly, if so just use a small tool and push the
protrusion up into the unit to free the tab so it is pulled back by
the spring. Push the front panel so the connectors pins go straight
in. Inspect. Replace all 18 screws, you may have to push the EMC
gasket out of the way to properly insert the screws. Re-install the
two side covers. Install in a TM 5000 series power supply. Apply
power. My unit was now fully operational.

Analysis;
The mis-connected pin on A1J1521, pin 1, carries the signal for the
left-most character on display DS1501, see schematic Front Panel
Display "1" in the manual. Without any power to the display it would
not operate. Since there was no other device connected there should
be no collateral damage or parts to replace except to realign the bent
pin.

Daniel from Ville Saint-Laurent, Qc, Canada. D22dufresne ( at ) yahoo
( the usual dot ) ca.