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Re: Question on probe impedance
arthurok
get a 6201a active probe . thats what i use
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----- Original Message -----
From: Bill R Cc: TekScopes@... Sent: Saturday, February 10, 2007 7:46 PM Subject: Re: [TekScopes] Question on probe impedance Ron, The 7A19 is a very wideband instrument. An input impedance of 1 megohm and 20 or 25 pf would cause it to roll off to quickly, limiting its bandwidth. You can use a probe designed to work with 50 ohm inputs. A X 10 probe will look like 500 ohms at the probe tip, a X100 probe will look like 5000 ohms. There are some probes out there that have switchable input Zs for those applications where you are not using the total bandwidth. Check one of the old catalogs. Best Regards Bill Roberts HBcubed wrote: > I have a 7A19 plugin which has an input impedance of 50 ohms. Why was > this input impedance selected ??.(most scopes are 1M ohm). What > happens if you use a high impedance probe with this plug in?? What is > the "correct" probe to be used with the 7A19? > > Thanks for any replies. > > Ron Simmons > > > > > Yahoo! Groups Links > > > > > > |
Re: Question on probe impedance
Bill R
More, Ron -
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I checked the 1975 catalog. It lists the P6056 as X10 and P6057 as X100, both working into 50 Ohm scope input. There is a super probe out there, a FET probe, P6201 that goes to 900 megaHz and terminates in 50 Ohm or 1 megOhm inputs. If you find a working one for less than $100.00, with all accessories, consider yourself lucky. Bill HBcubed wrote: I have a 7A19 plugin which has an input impedance of 50 ohms. Why was |
Re: Question on probe impedance
Bill R
Ron,
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The 7A19 is a very wideband instrument. An input impedance of 1 megohm and 20 or 25 pf would cause it to roll off to quickly, limiting its bandwidth. You can use a probe designed to work with 50 ohm inputs. A X 10 probe will look like 500 ohms at the probe tip, a X100 probe will look like 5000 ohms. There are some probes out there that have switchable input Zs for those applications where you are not using the total bandwidth. Check one of the old catalogs. Best Regards Bill Roberts HBcubed wrote: I have a 7A19 plugin which has an input impedance of 50 ohms. Why was |
Question on probe impedance
I have a 7A19 plugin which has an input impedance of 50 ohms. Why was
this input impedance selected ??.(most scopes are 1M ohm). What happens if you use a high impedance probe with this plug in?? What is the "correct" probe to be used with the 7A19? Thanks for any replies. Ron Simmons |
CG 5010 / CG 5011 Programmable Calibration Generator, Display fault
Unit origin and identification;
The unit is a Tektronix CG 5011 Programmable Calibration Generator, serial number is B010905, option 01. Date of manufacture is probably early 1992, from device date codes. Unit was purchased on eBay. Repairs where done on the front panel just before this failure. Symptoms; I had just repaired this unit for another fault related to the front panel assembly, AI. At power on the unit does a lamp test. In the right hand window display the left-most character did not light up. It used to work before that last repair. Repair; Remove the unit from it's power supply by pulling on the two lock-tabs. With two tabs and many PWB assemblies connected to the power supply, a measurably large force is required to pull the plug-in from the power supply. Disassemble the front panel by removing all 18 screws that hold the front panel to the rest of the unit. There are 6 screws on the bottom side and 9 on the top side. You will need a phillips type screwdriver for this. Remove the two side covers. Gently pull on the front panel to create a small gap. Disconnect the two pull tabs by pushing down a bit until the rear end slips out of the mating part. Pull the front panel away some more but not too much. You will see one or more pins that are not mated on connector A1J1521, female header. It is at the left side of the A1 assembly, Front Panel, and is mounted vertically. It is a 50 circuits dual row header type connector. On my instrument pin one, the top right pin of mating male connector on Main Interconnect Board, A2J1200, was bent and had not made contact with the mating part on A1. Pull the front panel further out until all the pins are free and you have some work space. If you fold the front panel face down this should allow easy access because all the wires are connected near the bottom. Inspect all the connector pins and carefully bend them back into proper alignment in both axis. Inspect the mating part on the front panel for obstruction or defect. Install the front panel back being careful to make sure all the pins are properly aligned. When the pins are mated do not push in yet. Reattach the two pull tabs. If they do not go all in, check that the small bump on the bottom of the unit, has not caught the assembly, if so just use a small tool and push the protrusion up into the unit to free the tab so it is pulled back by the spring. Push the front panel so the connectors pins go straight in. Inspect. Replace all 18 screws, you may have to push the EMC gasket out of the way to properly insert the screws. Re-install the two side covers. Install in a TM 5000 series power supply. Apply power. My unit was now fully operational. Analysis; The mis-connected pin on A1J1521, pin 1, carries the signal for the left-most character on display DS1501, see schematic Front Panel Display "1" in the manual. Without any power to the display it would not operate. Since there was no other device connected there should be no collateral damage or parts to replace except to realign the bent pin. Daniel from Ville Saint-Laurent, Qc, Canada. D22dufresne ( at ) yahoo ( the usual dot ) ca. |
CG 5010 / CG 5011 Programmable Calibration Generator, Broken ¡°Variable¡± Switch P
Unit origin and identification;
The unit is a Tektronix CG 5011 Programmable Calibration Generator, serial number is B010905, option 01. Date of manufacture is probably early 1992, from device date codes. Unit was purchased on eBay. The unit was advertized as missing this knob. Symptoms; The "Variable" button was missing. The "Units / Div" button was split. The worst was that the "Variable" shaft, plastic, was broken just off the end of the "Units / Div" shaft. Both buttons and shafts are concentric. The two function are done with a single dual concentric switch A1SW1121. It is made by Standard Grisby of Aurora Il, USA, for Tektronix. Tektronix part number is 260-2500-00, SWITCH, ROTARY: FRONT PANEL, CG5010, manufacturer 80009 (Tektronix). Repair; Not wanting to buy another CG 5011 or a rare part for something that could be fixable, I tried to repair it myself. I succeeded. Remove the unit from it's power supply by pulling on the two lock-tabs. With two tabs and many PWB assemblies connected to the power supply, a measurably large force is required to pull the plug-in from the power supply. Disassemble the front panel by removing all 18 screws that hold the front panel to the rest of the unit. There are 6 screws on the bottom side and 9 on the top side. You will need a phillips type screwdriver for this. Remove the two side covers. Gently pull on the front panel to create a small gap. Disconnect the two pull tabs by pushing down a bit until the rear end slips up and out of the mating part. Pull the front panel further out until all the pins are free and you have some work space. If you fold the front panel face down this should allow easy access because all the wires are connected near the bottom. Using a small hexagonal key remove the remaining knob. Remove the screws that hold the assembly to the front panel proper. Remove the assembly. Use a 0.5 inch open end wrench remove the nut holding the switch to the front panel. Remove the lock nut. Carefully unsolder the 6 pins, 3 per side, that hold the switch to the front panel. I used a solder sucker and then heating the solder pad I wiggled the pins one by one and let them cool while moving them constantly. When all the pins are free, pull the switch out. Clean the pins of any leftover solder. Inspect the switch. You will notice it is made of two printed wire boards, PWBs, that hold the pins and a plastic housing. The rear PWB is the "Variable" part of the switch. Using a sharp utility knife cut off the 8 plastic tabs that hold the PWB to the switch. You should be able to pry the PWB off the switch. Remove the PWB and the rotor assembly. You may need to push on the central shaft with a small tool or hard wire. Keep all the parts safely. Take the broken shaft and inspect it, at the rear end there is a small flat piece of plastic that engages into the rotor assembly that holds the moving fingers that make contact with the PWB. Carefully remove the rotor from the shaft. The shaft external diameter is nominally 0.125 inch. First inspect the shaft for any visible defect and correct them. File the front end of the shaft flat and clean. Locate a piece of plastic that is 0.125 inch outside diameter. I found that the ink reservoir and dispenser of low cost pen to be the right size. You may have to check a few different brands and models to find one. If you are lucky the pen ink is all gone. If not, cut it off above the two dents that hold the spring in place and discard the ink. Hours later, when you have removed the ink from the plastic cylinder and from yourself, your clothes and half your house, you are ready to do some real work. By the way nail polish remover worked OK on the ink in my plastic tube. Use a file and file away the end on about 0.125 inch long of the broken shaft to create a smaller shaft, concentric with the broken one and straight so the plastic tube can be slipped at the end. I had to redo this part, the first try was offset and crooked. When the fit is acceptable and straight check that the new extended shaft slips easily into the outer shaft. If not file away any bumps or obstructions. When all is finally OK mixup a small amount of epoxy and apply to two shafts separately and then mate. Make sure all is straight, leave to harden as per epoxy maker instruction. Original shaft, new smaller end, side view ¨C---------------- I-------- I I I-------- ------------------ When dry, remove any excess epoxy and check for fit again in the outer shaft. Make sure it fits OK. Reassemble the rotor and the PWB onto the switch. Check that all is still OK by rotating the new extended shaft in both directions for one full rotation. The PWB should snap tight on the switch assembly and hold tight, if not use some hot glue. Hot glue can be removed for repairs later. Reassemble the switch onto the Front Panel with the lock washer and the nut. Tighten but not too much. Solder only after having installed and tightened the nut otherwise if you solder before installing the nut this will put mechanical stress on the soldered connections and this is bad. Install the assembly to the front panel with the screws. Install the front panel back being careful to make sure all the pins in the 50 circuits connector are properly aligned. When the pins are mated do not push in yet. Reattach the two pull tabs. If they do not go all in, check that the small bump on the bottom of the unit, has not caught the assembly, if so just use a small tool and push the protrusion up into the unit to free the tab so it is pulled back by the spring. Find a replacement knob for the missing "Variable". Replace the "Units / Div" knob. Check the length of the new shaft and the new knob and cut the new shaft to fit the knob. Install the "Variable" knob. Push the front panel so the connectors pins go straight in. Inspect. Replace all 18 screws, you may have to push the EMC gasket out of the way to properly insert the screws. Re-install the two side covers. Install in a TM 5000 series power supply. Apply power. My unit was now fully operational. Optional; You could also replace the shaft completely. Remove the plastic flat end piece on the original shaft. This flat part inserts into the rotor. Replace the shaft has a whole, use epoxy to glue the end piece. Easier. No filing, I hate paperwork. Analysis; Please do not break shafts. Hope this helps someone. Thanks Daniel from Ville Saint-Laurent, Qc, Canada. D22dufresne ( at ) yahoo ( the usual dot ) ca. |
SG 5010 Programmable 160 kHz Oscillator, No output
Unit origin and identification;
The unit is a Tektronix SG 5010 Programmable 160 kHz Oscillator, serial number is B020944, no option. Unit was purchased on eBay. Symptoms; I had just purchased this unit and there was no output. Also when pushing the output "On/Off" button and measuring the output resistance, I would get overload on my ohmmeter. All the bottons and display are fully operational and respond properly to any action. There is just no output signal. Repair; The unit's history was unknown. Remove the unit from it's power supply by pulling on the lock-tab. Remove the side covers. Remove the rear, 2 hex bullet connectors 3/16 inch, and top cover, 5 screws, as a single piece. You will need a phillips type screwdriver and an open 3/16 inch wrench for this. Remove the two side covers. Remove the Oscillator Board, A14, it is the one at the right of the unit. Inspect the Output Board, A13 it is the next board in from the right end. There is a connector at the front near the Front Panel Board, A10, J4011, at the very bottom of the board. Check that all 3 pins are properly mated. If not remove the board and bend the pins straight. Carefully replace the output board, then the oscillator board, then the top/rear covers and side covers. Install in a TM 5000 series power supply. Apply power. Analysis; The mis-connected pins on A13J4011, pins 1, 2 and 3, carry the output signal to the front panel connectors. Without a connection there was no signal getting to the output connectors and no resistance in parallel with the connectors as these are on the output board. Hope this helps someone. Regards Daniel from Ville Saint-Laurent, Qc, Canada. D22dufresne ( at ) yahoo ( the usual dot ) ca. |
SG 5010 Programmable 160 kHz Oscillator, Output Level cannot be calibrated
Unit origin and identification;
The unit is a Tektronix SG 5010 Programmable 160 kHz Oscillator, serial number is B020944, no option. Unit was purchased on eBay. Symptoms; All the bottons and display are fully operational and respond properly to any action. Performing calibration to adjust the output level, the first step, I cannot adjust the output level at all, neither up nor down. The output level is high about 15 %. Repair; The unit's history was unknown. Remove the unit from it's power supply by pulling on the lock-tab. Remove the two side covers. Remove the rear, 2 hex bullet connectors 3/16 inch, and top cover, 5 screws, as a single piece. You will need a phillips type screwdriver and an open 3/16 inch wrench for this. Remove the Oscillator Board, A14, it is the one at the right of the unit. Inspect the Output Board, A13, it is the next board in from the right end. There are two wired connectors (connector with wire soldered to directly to the board) near the top that connect to two transistors located on the central metal piece. Check that the transistor nearest the front is connected to the cable that has the wiring nearest to the front of the Output Board. The same for the rear positioned transistor mated with the wiring harness nearer to the rear of the unit. If not remove the board and disconnect and reconnect the transistors properly. Carefully replace the output board, pay close attention to the small 3 pins connector at the front and bottom of the Output Board. Replace the Oscillator Board, then the top/rear covers and side covers. Install in a TM 5000 series power supply. Apply power. Analysis; The output level adjustment is in fact the adjustment of the regulated positive supply voltage, nominally 17 V. The mis-connected transistors are part of the positive and negative regulated power supplies. With the connections crossed, the transistors are fully on and cannot be controlled by their respective regulator circuits. The supply voltage is too high and the output level is too high and cannot be adjusted to be with specifications. Hope this helps someone. Regards Daniel from Ville Saint-Laurent, Qc, Canada. D22dufresne ( at ) yahoo ( the usual dot ) ca. |
SG 5010 Programmable 160 kHz Oscillator, PLL Error, code 315
Unit origin and identification;
The unit is a Tektronix SG 5010 Programmable 160 kHz Oscillator, serial number is B020944, no option. Unit was purchased on eBay. Symptoms; At power up, the PLL light would turn on and blink, sometimes it would turn off and the unit would function properly at other times, the PLL light wold stay on and ERR 315 would be displayed. Repair; The unit's history was unknown. Remove the unit from it's power supply by pulling on the lock-tab. Remove the two side covers. Remove the rear, 2 hex bullet connectors 3/16 inch, and top cover, 5 screws, as a single piece. You will need a phillips type screwdriver and an open 3/16 inch wrench for this. The PLL error is and indiction that the Phase Locked Loop, PLL, is not working properly. The PLL is located on the left most board and it controls the oscillator on the Oscillator Board, the right most board. The signal, 2 traces, goes across connectors and traces on all the boards in between. Any mis-connection, bad soldering, frayed cable will interrupt the proper operation of this signal. Inspect and correct all the cables and connections between all the boards. The connecting pins should be clean, free of any oxidation or foreign material, the cables should be free of any nix, cuts or frayed insulation. Repair or replace as necessary, clean and reseat all connections. Replace the top/rear covers and side covers. Install in a TM 5000 series power supply. Apply power. Analysis; The PLL circuit has features to detect an out of lock condition, so it's failure is detected by the instrument. Any failure of this circuit will cause the error message and the PLL light to be displayed. The signal is sent over a pair of wires and connections that are most often at the end or near the end of connectors making these more susceptible to been open circuit if the connector is not fully seated and is not parallel to the header. Hope this helps someone. Regards Daniel from Ville Saint-Laurent, Qc, Canada. D22dufresne ( at ) yahoo ( the usual dot ) ca. |
SG 5010 Programmable 160 kHz Oscillator, Output too low
Unit origin and identification;
The unit is a Tektronix SG 5010 Programmable 160 kHz Oscillator, serial number is B020247, no option. Unit was purchased on eBay. Symptoms; Unit operates normally with 50 ohms output impedance. With 150 ohms or 600 ohms output resistance in a 600 ohms load, the level is too low. In balanced mode the positive output is OK, only the negative output is affected, too low. Repair; The unit's history was unknown. Remove the unit from it's power supply by pulling on the lock-tab. Remove the two side covers. Remove the rear, 2 hex bullet connectors 3/16 inch, and top cover, 5 screws, as a single piece. You will need a phillips type screwdriver and an open 3/16 inch wrench for this. The output resistance can be selected from the front panel from 3 values; 50 ohms, 150 ohms and 600 ohms. This is done through relays and resistor networks. Inspection of the relays and resistor networks did not reveal any physically observable defects or signs of overload. The resistor networks are on the Output Amplifier Board, A13, the second one in from the right. Comparing the positive output network, A13R2011, with the negative output network, A13R2012, resistor values showed that one resistor was out of value on the negative network. The output resistance for the 50 ohm setting is direct. For the other two, relays add resistors in series with the 25 ohms. These resistors are connected in parallel for the 150 ohms setting. I measured the defective resistance and calculated the resistance value needed to bring the value with specifications. I ended up using two resistors soldered across the defective network element. The final value is within 0.1 ohm between the positive and the negative sides. Reassemble the Output Board and the Oscillator Board. Replace the top/rear covers and side covers. Install in a TM 5000 series power supply. Apply power. Analysis; With the output resistance much higher than specified, the output level with a load was too low. With a proper output resistance the output level in a load is now as per specifications. Hope this helps someone. Regards Daniel from Ville Saint-Laurent, Qc, Canada. D22dufresne ( at ) yahoo ( the usual dot ) ca. |
HOT Analogue board; Tektronix 2432
Mark
Hi All,
Thanks for letting me join TekScopes. As I look around I see some familiar faces from other groups. Hello everyone! I have a problem with a recent acquisition from the big auction. It is a TeK 2432. It attracted my attention due to the fact it has GPIB. Self Cal fails with 'hardware problem - see service manual' It is failing self tests 7000, 8000 and 9000. If its any help, CH2 7100 tests fail under self CAL but CH2 passes under Self Diag. Please see below for test result detail. I managed to get a manual (another story) and went through the diagnostic tree. The clocks look good. I did notice the TP231 in 0V, but 1.2V is present on pin 1 of the clock switching resister packs. I may have I got the wrong TP. The TP I think is TP231 is placed away from the parts of the board that use 1.2V. The one I checked is up by the PSU connector. The only other odd thing is, everything on the analogue board gets hot, like very hot, some chips such as the CCD are too hot to touch. That's everything from transistor to IC is warm or hot to touch. I have checked for abnormalities in the PSU, everything looks great. The voltages are spot on with no ripple. One of the outputs of the PSU is the mains trig with a lovely 50Hz sine-wave which did give me a fright when I was looking for ripple! Could it be some sort of high frequency oscillation on the Power supply? Or is this just a hot scope? Is is likely both CCD are cactus or is it more likely its the clock generator before the CCD? If anyone wants to do some fault finding on this scope remotely with me, I am all ears and eyes (and fingers).. Best regards, Mark VK2HMC Fail Tests: 7111 /CCD/CENTER/NORM-SP/CH1 7112 /CCD/CENTER/NORM-SP/CH2 PASS under self test but FAIL under Self Cal. 7131 /CCD/CENTER/ENV-SP-SLOW/CH1 7132 /CCD/CENTER/ENV-SP-SLOW/CH2 PASS under self test but FAIL under Self Cal. 7211 /CCD/GAIN/SHORT-PIPE/CH1-1 7212 /CCD/GAIN/SHORT-PIPE/CH1-3 7213 /CCD/GAIN/SHORT-PIPE/CH2-1 7214 /CCD/GAIN/SHORT-PIPE/CH2-3 7221 /CCD/GAIN/FISO-SLOW/CH1-1 7222 /CCD/GAIN/FISO-SLOW/CH1-3 7223 /CCD/GAIN/FISO-SLOW/CH2-1 7224 /CCD/GAIN/FISO-SLOW/CH2-3 7231 /CCD/GAIN/FISO-FAST/CH1-1 7232 /CCD/GAIN/FISO-FAST/CH1-3 7233 /CCD/GAIN/FISO-FAST/CH2-1 7234 /CCD/GAIN/FISO-FAST/CH2-3 7420 /CCD/PD-OFFSET/CH1-3 7440 /CCD/PD-OFFSET/CH2-3 8121 /PA/OFFSET/NORM-FISO/CH1 8122 /PA/OFFSET/NORM-FISO/CH2 8141 /PA/OFFSET/ENV-FISO-SLOW/CH1 8142 /PA/OFFSET/ENV-FISO-SLOW/CH2 8210 /PA/POS-GAIN/CH1 8220 /PA/POS-GAIN/CH2 8411 /PA/GAIN/50MV/CH1 8412 /PA/GAIN/50MV/CH2 8421 /PA/GAIN/20MV/CH1 8422 /PA/GAIN/20MV/CH2 8431 /PA/GAIN/10MV/CH1 8432 /PA/GAIN/10MV/CH2 8441 /PA/GAIN/5MV/CH1 8442 /PA/GAIN/5MV/CH2 8451 /PA/GAIN/2MV/CH1 8452 /PA/GAIN/2MV/CH2 8511 /PA/INV-GAIN/50MV/CH1 8512 /PA/INV-GAIN/50MV/CH2 8521 /PA/INV-GAIN/20MV/CH1 8522 /PA/INV-GAIN/20MV/CH2 8531 /PA/INV-GAIN/10MV/CH1 8532 /PA/INV-GAIN/10MV/CH2 Hmm 8541 and 8542 pass... 8551 /PA/INV-GAIN/2MV/CH1 8552 /PA/INV-GAIN/2MV/CH2 8620 /PA/VAR-MAX/CH2 8711 /PA/ATTEN-GAIN*/CH1/X1 8712 /PA/ATTEN-GAIN*/CH1/X10 8713 /PA/ATTEN-GAIN*/CH1/X100 8721 /PA/ATTEN-GAIN*/CH2/X1 8722 /PA/ATTEN-GAIN*/CH2/X10 8723 /PA/ATTEN-GAIN*/CH2/X100 9211 /TRIGS/GAIN/A-TRIG/CH1 9212 /TRIGS/GAIN/A-TRIG/CH2 9221 /TRIGS/GAIN/B-TRIG/CH1 9222 /TRIGS/GAIN/B-TRIG/CH2 |
tek 5304 scope with wide bar trace
hello, group!
oscilloscope: tek 5304 display unit: D40 horizontal unit: 5B40 vertical units: 5A38 (i have two) settings on the horiz unit are 0.1 sec/div and auto trig on. everything else is off. settings on the vertical units (either unit installed in either slot or both installed or both removed) do not vary the results. i get a vertical bar (instead of a nice dot) that spans from the top of the display to the bottom and about 2 divisions wide that travels across the display in about 1 second. intensity dial on display unit has to be turned way up to see the bar. as i turn the sec/div up bar speed slows down, and as sec/div decreases, bar speeds up. if i pull the horiz unit (and the vert units), i get the same bar about 2 divisions wide and from top of display to bottom, but it doesn't move. i get the same result if i install on a vertical unit (either unit in either slot). i have the manual for the 5403 and the 5B40, but not the D40 nor the 5A38. the 5441 manual seems to have the schematics for the D41 display, which appears very similar to the D40. i used these schematics and tek's scope troubleshooting guide to "common mode" the amp stages on the vertical amp board and saw no changes to the display. i have verified the power board's voltages per the 5304 manual. right before i got the bar, the scope started repeating and phase shifting the channel 1 trace that i was measuring. very quickly after that i got the bar. any help would be greatly appreciated, even if it's just pointing me in the direction of the correct section to troubleshoot. thanks, and sorry for the long post. -chris |
549 Manual Ugly and Almost Free
bobkrassa
I have an ugly but original manual for the Type 549 Storage
Oscilloscope that I will send for $5.00 to the first person who tells me they want it. The $5 includes shipping by media mail. It is ugly because the lower third looks like it got wet - before I acquired it, and the pages are a gray color on the lower one third. But they are not sticking. The reason I thought someone might want it is the pictures are much more readable than in the one on BAMA and the blue on the schematics shows up fine. So if you are working on one, you might find it useful, if you are a collector you do not want this. If no one wants it I will toss it. Please reply off list. |
Re: old fashioned 535 - first start after 35 years
Bill R
Hi, Michael:
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The aluminum chassis in Tek scopes has been Alodized or Anodized (I can't remember which process is used). This process cleans the surface and hardens it. I'm no chemist, but I think part of that process uses potash. If you use potash to clean it I think your chassis surface will be changed (will not look good). Any chem heads correct me please. Bill Roberts michael.petereit@... wrote: Dave, |
Re: 500 series extender cable
Bill R
Hi, Dave:
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The vertical signal connections are where the coax is used, plus two more for the "flipped version (580). Before the 580, they were not coax. For the rest of the connections, you can check any 540 or 580 scope schematic for the pinouts. I have a description in a Calibration Fixtures book that I can scan that page and send you (does not include schematic). The part number for the "Fits All" version extender is: 013-055-00. Contact me off list at bill1904 at comcast dot net. BR Bill Roberts componenx wrote: I've searched the archives a few times, but I haven't found a really good description of the 500 series scope extension cable. Based on what I did find (and looking at my MFs and PIs), the 93 ohm coax should be used for the signals (pins 1 and 3), with gnd connections on both ends. The "HV" lines (9-12)should be generic coax with single- |
Re: old fashioned 535 - first start after 35 years
Stan and Patricia Griffiths
Hi Michel,
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The only part that I know of in that scope that can be damaged by water is the power transformer and then usually only if you submerge it in water or use water with a lot of metal ions in it. You could always remove the power transformer to keep it away from the water and wash the rest of the scope with detergent and water. Warm water works best. I have never heard of using caustic potash to clean a scope so I am not sure how this will work. I would not do it. Stan -----Original Message-----
From: Michael Petereit [mailto:Michael.Petereit@...] Sent: Friday, February 09, 2007 9:05 AM To: Stan and Patricia Griffiths Subject: Re: [TekScopes] Re: old fashioned 535 - first start after 35 years Hi Stan, well, I had really doubts thinking about changing the capacitor of this scope. The one I bought from you seems working fine. There are a lot more capacitor rolled in paper and with no printed value on it. In general it's pretty hard to find any resistor or capacitor on the scope accord to the schematics. There is no part definition printed like on modern pcbs. And the dirt covers really everything, especially the wiring with it's colour scheme. Maybe it's best first to clean this device but all post from the past concerning this issue are not really usefull. From outting it into the dishwasher to placing it into the bath tube and showering it... Hmmm, it don't want to try this. The easiest way to get rid of this dirt is caustic potash. It nags the aluminium and the dirt very good. But without unmounting nearly every part the cleaning won't be succesful. I thought about changing all electircal part except of tubes and coils and special parts at all. What do you thin about that ? Regards, Michael |
Re: old fashioned 535 - first start after 35 years
Stan and Patricia Griffiths
Hi Michael,
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The black capacitors I am talking about are located in the -150, +100, +225, +350, and +500 power supplies and not in the high voltage area. You should be able to remove and replace these capacitors without removing any other parts. If one of the precision resistors in the power supply gets damaged, I have some spares from scrapped old scopes. Stan -----Original Message-----
From: Michael Petereit [mailto:Michael.Petereit@...] Sent: Friday, February 09, 2007 8:57 AM To: Stan and Patricia Griffiths Subject: Re: [TekScopes] Re: old fashioned 535 - first start after 35 years Hi Stan, the plugin is available and installed. Unfortunately one channel will not work for sure since the wire of one coil is broken.... But this won't prevent the startup of the complete "vehicle". For checking the black old capacitors I have to unsold all other resistors above. For cleaning purpose this is the best choice but a little bit risky too. Thanks, Michael Stan and Patricia Griffiths said the following on 09.02.2007 08:00: Hi Michael, |
Re: 500 series extender cable
Craig Sawyers
I've searched the archives a few times, but I haven't found a reallyWell, I have just taken a cover off my 012-038 500-series flexible extender, and the cable is just 16-core plain wire. No coaxes in there at all. BUT it is a good job I took the cover off, since there are two broken solder joints in there with the wires just flapping. Cable length is 2 feet. The rigid extender (013-0055-00) is different entirely. There are coaxes on 8, 9, 11, 14 and 16. All shields are linked and connected to pin 2. Also, the shields are connected via 0.001u ceramic disc (Z5U) to pin 10. This arrangement of shield connection is at both connectors. All other pins (including 2 and 10) are connected with lengths of wire. The distance between the connectors is 6". Craig |
500 series extender cable
componenx
I've searched the archives a few times, but I haven't found a really
good description of the 500 series scope extension cable. Based on what I did find (and looking at my MFs and PIs), the 93 ohm coax should be used for the signals (pins 1 and 3), with gnd connections on both ends. The "HV" lines (9-12)should be generic coax with single- ended grounds, and everything else can be straight thru single wire. Is this correct? Would it be better to use the single ended coax on all the other lines to reduce interferance? Is there a schematic or description of a "real" Tek extender cable anywhere? I know that 16 point to point wires will do in a pinch, but since I have the time and RG62 cable, I might as well do it right. I saw a few posts noting that RG62 is hard to find, but I have local stock of a few different types @ .50/foot -Dave |
Attenuator Parts for SC504?
Howard Ashcraft
I have a fully functional SC504--except for the channel 2 attenuator.
The SC504 attenuator has a cam that causes individual contacts to be pushed into contact with plugin boards containing the attenuator resistors. The contacts are mounted on green elastic bands that are attached to plastic carriers, three bands to a carrier. In my case, the gold plated contacts became unglued because someone in the distant past sprayed some solvent/contact cleaner into the assembly. Because some of the contacts were stuck to an attenuator board, it is possible that the board was damaged, too. Although I have been able to make replacement contacts that have greatly improved the situation, it still isn't correct. So, if someone has a junk SC504, I would like to get the contacts and the carriers and also the 4 plugin boards that are in the attenuator. I probably can get by with 2 of the contact assemblies, if someone only has those. Thanks. |
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