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for me, the most reliable "sticker" remover has consistently been goo-gone.
this is especially true with government asset labels and old cal stockers.
I also use alcohol sometimes, but it is just not as effective.

generally for cleaning, I use windex, scotch-brite pads and sometimes the chemicals above
to get the cases clean.? I find the hardest things to remove are not labels, but those idiotic big permanent marker notations scribbled at random on equipment. they are truly hard to eliminate, especially from plastic finishes.

I sometimes use a solder-flux safety wash spray chemical to remove them, but it can be a problem for the case finish, so real care is required.? generally alcohol and other chemicals merely remove the topmost layer of the marking, and leave the finish-soaked remains intact. very frustrating.

I keep Tek blue paint in stock to re-do covers, but it is only truly successful once the case is thoroughly cleaned and the old finish roughened for good adhesion, and scratches smoothed with scotch-brite. A bit of effort can restore the finish to as-new. I used to have the olive-gray HP paint as well, but it was only useful on older items.

-all the best,
walter

--
Walter Shawlee 2
Sphere Research Corp.
Phone: +1 (250-769-1834 -:-
We're all in one boat, no matter how it looks to you. (WS2)
All you need is love. (John Lennon)
But, that doesn't mean other things don't come in handy. (WS2)

Not this, but vinyl boots on alligator clips and the like eat
themselves into polystyrene parts boxes.
I'm always suspected the softeners in the PVC.
Plastics are weird that way.

I'm told the sticking of adhesives isn't fully understood scientifically.
Not sure if there is any truth to that, but weird magic like
activating plastic surfaces with corona discharge sure means I don't
understand it.

ST

from Chuck:
"Goo gone is not aqueous. It is more like terpene,
made from the citrus, with mineral oil added to
prevent re-adhesion of the stickum."

Yes, oils seem to passivate the glue surface adhesion bond mechanism. Same as pouring Canola oil on a snake stuck in a glue trap. Slowly the glue is rendered ineffective and the snake squirms away none the worse for the experience! Not sure the atomic mechanism going on though.

I have seen some stickers on vinyl covered aluminum that seem to have modified the underlying vinyl by flattening out the orange peal surface. You can remove all trace of the adhesive, but you can do little regarding the latent outline of the sticker. The adhesive, when first applied, must react with the vinyl in some way. Any one else encounter this?

Kjo

On Tue, Jun 12, 2018 at 07:14 am, Mlynch001 wrote:

I have used WD40 and Naptha with great success. Isopropyl works well on some
stains as well. As most chemicals state, "test on an inconspicuous location"
before you start cleaning.

--
Michael Lynch
Dardanelle, AR

Hit "Enter" too Quick. I found that I can take a small piece of cotton rag, cut to fit over the offending spot, soak with naptha or WD40 and allow to soak for a while. This seems to help dissolve the adhesive and reduces the mess.
Good Luck!

--
Michael Lynch
Dardanelle, AR

I have used WD40 and Naptha with great success. Isopropyl works well on some stains as well. As most chemicals state, "test on an inconspicuous location" before you start cleaning.

--
Michael Lynch
Dardanelle, AR

it is crazy here, bunch of loonies! worst part I live and work among them, I do my best not upset them by rational outbursts backed by facts.
R

Sounds like ripple on one of the supplies. Have you checked with a scope?

I use automotive "Wax and Grease Remover" obtained from an automotive paint supplier, it is used a prep agent just prior to painting. Works great for removing sticker residue, and other greasy stuff. Won't harm paint or plastic.
I also use it for it's intended purpose just prior to any refinish job.

I’ve had good luck removing labels, label gunk, and other surface contamination with Clutch & Brake cleaner, like this:

Initially, I was concerned that it would melt plastic or remove paint, but after experiments on stray bits, I’ve not found any evidence of harm and now use it without concern.

I’ve used it on cases, plastic meter lenses, buttons, knobs, etc.

I second the naptha (lighter fluid) suggestion (although I haven't used it
on paint). I had a Simpson multimeter that had a price tag affixed to its
plastic lens for what was probably many years. I didn't want to scratch or
damage the lens. I was able to lightly fingernail the paper part off.. but
the adhesive remained. After asking around (here and on other forums), I
settled on trying naptha. I was worried that it might dissolve the plastic.
But I decided to give it a go. I couldn't find a store that sold it. So, I
went to a smoke shop and there were about a dozen guys inside puffing on
giant stogies. The store was a bona fide gas chamber. I held my breath for
the duration of the transaction and until I exited the store. I got the
lighter fluid but when I got back in the car, my daughters were choking
from the stench that I had absorbed during the 60 seconds I was in the
store. When I got home, I applied the lighter fluid with a q-tip and the
adhesive came of beautifully with no damage to the lens.

On Tue, Jun 12, 2018 at 9:33 AM, Phillip Potter <p.potter@...>
wrote:

For what it’s worth, after scrubbing the covers on my filthy 453 with a
Scotch Brite pad and IPA (the only thing that would cut the slime!), they
had a matte appearance. After consulting the “Tek Brain Trust,” I wiped
them down with WD-40 to return a shiny lustrous appearance. It helped (not
harmed) the blue Tek paint.

Now, my 453 “Shines like a dime!”

Phil, N6OMM

On Jun 11, 2018, at 11:06 PM, Adam <adam_alterman@...> wrote:

I have good success removing sticker residue with WD-40, but cannot

vouch for it’s safety on TEK blue paint.

On Mon, 11 Jun 2018 at 22:12 John Osborne via Groups.Io <JohnROsbor=
[email protected]> wrote:

The scope displays a good sine wave on all inputs. But superimposed on the
perfect sine wave is a rippling wave that travels from right to left in
quick succession. Perhaps 6 waves per second. It does not distort the sine
wave in any way but travels along the wave on both the top and bottom edge
of the trace. The wave is much lower in intensity than the sine wave
displayed but is very noticeable.

Hey John,

welcome to the group and congrats on the 2465 - sounds like you'll feel
right at home here :).
At low sweep speeds, the 2400 scopes borrow the beam during the sweep to
update the on-screen display (OSD). This causes a little bit of artifacting
in the waveform that could manifest as you describe.
If this is what you're seeing, you should be able to verify that the
artifacting goes away when you turn off the OSD, which you do by turning
the display intensity pot to the 12 o'clock position.

IIRC there's an adjustment for this somewhere, though I'd have to grouse
through the service manual to find it.

Siggi

For what it’s worth, after scrubbing the covers on my filthy 453 with a Scotch Brite pad and IPA (the only thing that would cut the slime!), they had a matte appearance. After consulting the “Tek Brain Trust,” I wiped them down with WD-40 to return a shiny lustrous appearance. It helped (not harmed) the blue Tek paint.

Now, my 453 “Shines like a dime!”

Phil, N6OMM

If you soak acrylic plastics in denatured alcohol for more than
about a minute, it will form great cracks at every stress point.

US denatures its ethanol by adding poisons that will make you
blind if you drink it, and sick if it gets on your skin...

Tax cheats must be punished!

The UK, on the other hand, colors their denatured alcohol a
pretty violet color, and housewives everywhere use it as a
mixer.

Check out the comments section for Barrettine Methylated Spirit:

<>

-Chuck Harris

stefan_trethan wrote:

Nah its not so bad. Was only like 25-30$ (american) worth, but it was a
few years ago, so perhaps pricing has changed.

But no, the only testing I did on the old paper caps was to throw them in
the trash. They made a noise when going in, so I presume they were bad.

A few of the electros were definitely dried out tho. I had to take them
apart for restuffing.

David

On Tue, Jun 12, 2018 at 6:18 AM John <John@...> wrote:

Thanks David. That's quite a list of capacitors: did you check the paper
ones you removed to see how they had faired?

John




--

Sent from Mobile Annoyance thingy, please pardon any typos

Thanks David. That's quite a list of capacitors: did you check the paper ones you removed to see how they had faired?

John

Hi Albert,

I have been reading in both the forum and the internet and I found quite interesting info like this page:

Unfortunately, I do not have 2 HV windings, in fact I have 3. I have 3 diode tubes in the secondary...

In this forum however I have not found a clear procedure, I found several links to a previous Yahoo group but I can not access.

I will try to upload photos in that way - thanks for the advice : )

I looked in Ebay and only found a 300USD with another 250USD of shippings, as in the programming fiel, it is out of range... and in bad shape

Anyway, any idea about:
1. Anyone who sell one for parts or just the parts
2. Rewinding it

Thanks for all this support, you are such a nice guys!

Rewinding (and its issues!) HV transformers has very often been discussed in this group. You might search the forum for old messages. A nasty circumstance is that you have 2 HV secondary windings which preferably should be wound bifilar. I recently rewound a 491 HV transformer which had just one HV winding -- far easier. And even then I had to repeat this until I had the proper technique and materials! I would go for a scratch 502A.
You can upload photos via the website. Go to the Photos section and click New Album et cetera. Or add photos to an existing album when that is allowed by the owner. If you refer to a photo then please add a link in the message since there is no good search facility in the Photos section.

Albert

Hi Dave and Bob,

Thank you very much for your answers.
Yeah Dave, Ido not know what has exactly tek 502, I do not know if it is the glow of its tubes, its vintage appearance... but is has some kind of magic (like Freddy Mercury, sorry for the joke I could not resist).

Always is the pòsibility of buying anothger one for parts but, what about rewinding it?

Has anyone done that? is it posible?

I have used Ronsonol lighter fluid for the past 50 years. It is harmless
to nearly all surfaces.

Gary

On Mon, Jun 11, 2018 at 7:10 PM Dennis Tillman W7PF <dennis@...>
wrote:

A far too common problem I have no solution for yet:

What will remove sticker residue on Tek blue paint without harming the
paint
finish?



Stay away from GOOF OFF. Its active ingredient is XYLENE, which dissolves
paint very quickly. Don't ask me how I know :(



Isopropyl alcohol is very mild on most things but it does poorly against
the
sticker residue and often you have to rub the affected area to get the glue
to come off. The rubbing removes some blue paint and mars the finish so
that
is no good.



Would boiling water soften the sticker residue and leave the paint alone or
would it siften the paint as well.



Suggestions are welcome.

--
Gary Robert Bosworth
grbosworth@...
Tel: 310-317-2247

I use denatured alcohol (denatured with denatonium benzoate) and found
it safe on all plastics, but I have been told the stuff in the US can
be denatured with methanol or even gasoline so be careful.

Somewhere between ethanol and acetone in terms of strength is ethyl
acetate. I don't have enough experience to advise on paint
compatibility.

The oil method and citrus based remover work well too, but the citurs
smell can be a bit strong.

ST

On Tue, Jun 12, 2018 at 6:13 AM, Bob Albert via Groups.Io
<bob91343@...> wrote:

I wonder if denatured alcohol would work. I have used it successfully on many things. About the only thing stronger might be acetone but that will eat the paint too.
Bob
On Monday, June 11, 2018, 8:40:39 PM PDT, G Hopper <kb7wsd@...> wrote:

One more vote: Goo gone is my go to. I learned about it from a woman who
refurbished photographic enlargers years ago. Mild and didn't damage
anything, but worked amazingly on adhesives and grease. Has a pleasant
smell too.

73,
Grant
KB7WSD

On Mon, Jun 11, 2018 at 8:35 PM, David M <dgminala@...> wrote:

I've used WD40 with good results. Most paints seem to tolerate it well.
As with any old finish, rubbing will likely damage it. I spray a small
amount of it on the sticker, let it rest for a few minutes, spray again,
and the sticker usually comes right off, leaving what's left of the
adhesive mostly dissolved. A paper towel soaked with WD40 takes care of
the residue.
Don't know what's in WD40, or what's different from GoofOff, but, as with
almost EVERYTHING else, use at your own risk.

Dave M

On Mon, Jun 11, 2018 at 07:10 pm, Dennis Tillman W7PF wrote:

A far too common problem I have no solution for yet:

What will remove sticker residue on Tek blue paint without harming the

paint

finish?



Stay away from GOOF OFF. Its active ingredient is XYLENE, which dissolves
paint very quickly. Don't ask me how I know :(



Isopropyl alcohol is very mild on most things but it does poorly against

the

sticker residue and often you have to rub the affected area to get the

glue

to come off. The rubbing removes some blue paint and mars the finish so

that

is no good.



Would boiling water soften the sticker residue and leave the paint alone

or

would it siften the paint as well.



Suggestions are welcome.

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