开云体育

On Fri, Aug 28, 2020 at 08:47 PM, Dave Brown wrote:

I believe you are referring to the RPR files I put up on TekWiki from the
museum. The museum password protected the files since we added our scanned
information at the bottom so one would know the source of the file, especially
since it is covered by a release from Tektronix. We know it is easy to get
around as was done in order to OCR the file.

I'm afraid I've lost track of what we're trying to do here.
As I understand, the main issue is having OCR'ed versions of the files on TekWiki that are available here:



Dave seems to have locked them for reasons he describes above. I'm not sure if unlocking, OCR'ing and relocking them would pose a problem as to the release by Tek although the release in itself may have made them "untouchable".
If unlocking and relocking is ok, we'll be able to add OCR where necessary and possibly (very likely) reduce size for the very large files (>200MB). Their size seems unnecessarily large but that happens when you just scan and store.
I am willing and able to give OCR'ing and size-reducing a try. I have done that for many manuals, like 7L13, 7L26 etc. etc.
The -155 file (Tek-made IC's) seems to have been done already.

Maybe it has all been done already and I'm just a little behind.

Raymond

On 2020-08-29 6:25 p.m., Ed Breya via groups.io wrote:

Sometimes the "service manual" is built into the appliance. In nearly every washer, dryer, dishwasher, frig, microwave, and HVAC thing I've worked on (many dozens of items) over the years, I have found what are called "service sheets," I think, which may range from a sticker with the wiring diagram, to fairly elaborate multi-page documents with diagnostics

This is a wonderful practice and I hope it returns soon.

Vaguely related, this is also something I saw recently that seems very
hacker friendly and maybe others on the group will enjoy:



--Toby


and all. They are typically folded up nicely and taped or tie-wrapped
onto something inside. The trick is to find them. As soon as you have to
open something up, look all over the place for any sign of this info,
which is usually just behind a cover panel or something a repair person
would first open up to start work. They aren't necessarily easy to find
- I've seen dishwashers with the documents taped to the bottom of the
tub (not easily spotted), or worse, hanging from the back of a built-in
unit. You'd never find it unless it's so bad it had to be pulled out of
the cabinet.

Ed

On Sun, Aug 30, 2020 at 12:38 AM, Gary Robert Bosworth wrote:

I need to purchase the connector used on the end of the cable of the PD
keyboard that attaches to the front panel of the 4041. It looks like a 4-pin
LEMO round silver connector. I cannot find this part listed even on the
keyboard's manual listings.

If it's the same as the power connector for FET probes, I probably have one for you, could be NOS. Also, if its diameter is bigger than the FET-ones.
I have a 4041 in the lab and will be there on Monday and check 4041 and plug availability. Remind me Tuesday if I don't respond with details if I forget - and if you want.
Would have to be shipped from the Netherlands, price to be determined but not ridiculous: make me an offer if we get there.

Raymond

I need to purchase the connector used on the end of the cable of the PD keyboard that attaches to the front panel of the 4041. It looks like a 4-pin LEMO round silver connector. I cannot find this part listed even on the keyboard's manual listings.

Sometimes the "service manual" is built into the appliance. In nearly every washer, dryer, dishwasher, frig, microwave, and HVAC thing I've worked on (many dozens of items) over the years, I have found what are called "service sheets," I think, which may range from a sticker with the wiring diagram, to fairly elaborate multi-page documents with diagnostics and all. They are typically folded up nicely and taped or tie-wrapped onto something inside. The trick is to find them. As soon as you have to open something up, look all over the place for any sign of this info, which is usually just behind a cover panel or something a repair person would first open up to start work. They aren't necessarily easy to find - I've seen dishwashers with the documents taped to the bottom of the tub (not easily spotted), or worse, hanging from the back of a built-in unit. You'd never find it unless it's so bad it had to be pulled out of the cabinet.

Ed

Walter's cable is probably for a word recognizer probe for the 2400 series
scopes, which uses the same 6 pin LEMO as the tracking generator cable, but
only on one end.

BTW, the tracking generator cable was used with both the 7L13 and 7L14
analyzers.


Dave Casey

On Sat, Aug 29, 2020 at 2:10 PM Raymond Domp Frank <hewpatek@...>
wrote:

On Sat, Aug 29, 2020 at 09:04 PM, Mark Huffstutter wrote:

I think the 6 pin Lemo cable was used to connect the TR-502 Tracking

Generator

To a 7L13, Walter. I remember reading a post by Dennis too.

That cable has Lemo connectors on both sides.

Raymond

My problem like this was with a dishwasher. A good one - I’ll name names;
it was a Miele. A design feature that was quite good was that the intake
valve for the water supply was external and located right at the water
supply line. That way, if the line itself failed while the machine was off,
it would not result in flooding since the water was off at the source, not
in the machine. The valve had a cable that went back to the controller.
What failed was that valve and it failed in a safe mode - water off. I
called the US Miele folks and asked if I could purchase the part. The part
number was not readily visible on the valve so I asked if I could purchase
the service manual. The immediate answer was “no” - they only supplied
service manuals to their authorized service centers and personnel. I then
asked if I could have someone service it and they told me to call the local
service center and gave me the number. I called them and they asked from
whom I bought the dishwasher. We had gotten it through the contractor Who
was renovating our kitchen and this had been at least ten years prior to
the failure. I had no idea from whom the contractor bought the machine and
I told them how we got it. Their reply was that they would not service it
if it was not sold through one of their authorized dealers. I explained I
was not asking for warranty service and I would be glad to pay for the
service work. Still, they said they would not service it - no exceptions. I
wound up buying a new dishwasher.

One question I have learned to ask when I purchase a new appliance if
whether or not I can purchase a service manual for it. If the answer is
“no” then I look for a different manufacturer. If nothing else, the service
manual is helpful in narrowing down the source of a problem. There is
little more frustrating than having a service person come out to fix
something and then telling you they don’t have the necessary part with
them. It usually means another delay and sometimes having to take time off
work for the second visit. The service manuals are also useful in helping
determine what you may be able to fix and what you cannot. It turns out
that even if I had been able to purchase the valve for the Miele that a
special crimping tool is required - a tool they made or had made.

Wa have had multiple failures of our HVAC system - usually the heating
side. It is a gas furnace, so I am reluctant to replace anything in the gas
handling side of the system. But they did supply a service manual. The
controller board has an LED that flashes diagnostic/error codes. When I do
call for service, I tell them what the code is (or I look it up myself in
the manual). This way, they almost always have the correct parts with them.
It turned out that the problem was not in the furnace itself - the pressure
in the gas line was higher than their spec. We found this out when we had a
backup generator installed - the installers told us that our gas line
pressure was high and likely higher than the spec for our furnace. They
then asked if we had problems with the gas valve in the furnace failing -
we had; that was the major source of the failures. They recommended that we
have the HVAC folks put a regulator in the gas supply line for the furnace.
The HVAC folks did that and we have not had problems with the heating since.

With the 32v supply at 30v, the +/-5v readings make perfect sense as the reference
for those two regulators is the 32v supply. [30/32x 5] = 4.68v Check the DC and AC
voltages across C721. You should see around 50vdc there.
With equipment this old it is not uncommon to find multiple
failures of aluminum electrolytic capacitors which often dry out with age.
This is not true for tantalum types, however, they do not have the same age related
failure mechanism.
There won't be any +95 volts until you have 50v at C558.

Dave

On Sat, Aug 29, 2020 at 07:32 PM, walter shawlee wrote:

TH720 Question: how can you check the battery condition? other than a low
battery message on power up,
I have yet to find any way to check this, no menu brings it up that I can see.
rats....

I assume you mean charge level, not wear-out or old age condition?
Charge level can be measured (to a certain degree as voltage per cell) by measuring voltage under load but AFAIK, the THS700-series don't support that as an indication other than by just by switching - or not powering on.
Since NiCd cells have a reasonably constant voltage until almost discharged, I usually took 1.05 - 1.1V as a minimum level. The indication possibilities by end-to-end measuring of a battery consisting of more than one cell in series are limited because of unknown differences in charge level. And that's just the start of it...

Raymond

On Fri, Aug 28, 2020 at 08:26 PM, Dallas Smith wrote:

The file was over 30mb's before the OCR conversion, now its 11mb's, My ABBYY
OCR software is very efficient. I think the file should be added rather than
replaced.

I think two of them are larger than 200 MB. I've reduced many Tek manuals that were over 200 MB to 30 - MB with hardly any loss of quality.
If you send me an unlocked version of one of those, I'll see what "dual-layer" OCR'ing does.

Raymond

On Sat, Aug 29, 2020 at 05:44 PM, Dallas Smith wrote:

This process does not make the PDF a OCR version but just searchable The page
images do not change, it just provide information ti make the PDF searchable?

That's my preferred method: The OCR part is a separate "invisible" layer.

Raymond

On Sat, Aug 29, 2020 at 09:04 PM, Mark Huffstutter wrote:

I think the 6 pin Lemo cable was used to connect the TR-502 Tracking Generator
To a 7L13, Walter. I remember reading a post by Dennis too.

That cable has Lemo connectors on both sides.

Raymond

I think the 6 pin Lemo cable was used to connect the TR-502 Tracking Generator
To a 7L13, Walter. I remember reading a post by Dennis too.

Mark

The electronics shop in the physics lab where I once worked just used the outer part of a BNC cable connector (removed from a connector which had had its inner portion's fingers
messed up). It works well enough if you make sure the torque is applied mostly to the panel and not to the "tool". You shouldn't apply much torque to the two posts which engage the tool
anyway. You can even use a good connector, still attached to a cable.

On 8/29/2020 10:07 AM, Harrison wrote:

I checked F558 and to my surprise it was blown. I know I had checked it numerous times and it was okay. It must have blown during one of my probing expeditions. I noted with or without F558 the unit powers up and CRT illumination and power on light work. I lifted the outer lead of C558 and it read 8.34 micro Farad (an in spec reading).
I was thinking of staying out of the scope for a bit and spending more time in the manual rereading the circuit theory and operation theory. I say that because I am confused and going in circles. After replacing C741 I had a solid 32V, +5V and -5V at the TPs. The 95 TP read +7.58. As time has passed those readings are now 30V, +4.7V and -4.9V. The 95V TP reads +7.5V. The junction between CR582 and C582 reads +7.4V. These readings were all taken with the same meter. Nothing else was done nor any other components replaced between the two sets of readings. Monitoring the readings now for a bit it almost seems like they discharge a bit. I.E. like a capacitor discharging.
I also noticed that immediately after replacing C741 the power on light would illuminate steady when the power switch was pulled. Now when I pull the power switch on it seems to blink/flicker once or twice before remaining on steady. Granted there is a linkage and several mechanical connections that might just be suffering the ravages of time and this might be expected.
Regardless, I am just Easter egging now and need to get smarter on the circuits and relationship between them. Don't know where else to go from here. Plus like I said in my first post I am a mechanical guy with limited electrical/electronic theory schooling or background. While I read a lot, not everything sticks.
Anyway, any and all ideas past and future are appreciated. The group has gotten me this far. I don't know if I am close to the goal line or still off in left field. Stay safe and healthy. Harrison N1FAM

Bruce, I wouldn't mind owning one of those BNC wrenches, but the link you gave doesn't ship to the UK. There is one on eBay which looks the same, but the shipping to the UK puts the cost up by an to around twice the selling-price. You say that there are "many different ones available or you can make your own..just a hole and a slot" but I can't find any others. I would also think that while making your own looks fairly easy, you probably need access to a metal-working lathe.
Colin.

if anybody can use one,, I found another new 6 pin Lemo circular connector to tinned end cable from Tek, 20" long.
I believe Dennis said these were used to link to the TR50x style tracking generators, but not sure why one end is open.
In any case, free to anybody that can use it (not me), can ship in a cheap padded envelope anywhere.

TH720 Question: how can you check the battery condition? other than a low battery message on power up,
I have yet to find any way to check this, no menu brings it up that I can see. rats....

all the best,
walter

That's a slippery slope- you eventually end up with more than could possibly need or use.? Ask me how I know... ;-)
-Dave

On Sat, Aug 29, 2020 at 04:50 AM, Timothy W. Koeth wrote:

Hi All,

Being the proud owner of three 556's, (and four 555s), I can give you some
historical info, $25 (2010) and $200 (2012), both were functions and
extremely clean and populated with plugins, the third a little dusty, but
operational and had the P11 CRT (2017) $50, it also had plugins.

It does come down to how badly you "need" one. Generally those parting
with the 556 want to make sure they go to a good home as well as make a few
$$$. I'd say no more than $200 for a clean working 556.

Hope this helps,
Tim

Tim,

Thanks for the info.
I don’t “need” one at all. I have more than enough scopes for my actual needs. I just think it looks cool.
This particular model is also quite rare in Europe, and prices are usually a bit higher than in the U.S.
This one is not particularly “clean” physically, but that can be cleaned quite easily, I guess. If it’s electrically sound, that’s what matters most. It is, however, on the high side price wise. And only comes with 2x1A1 plugins.

Am I trying to convince myself?? Hmmm ?

Hi All,

Being the proud owner of three 556's, (and four 555s), I can give you some
historical info, $25 (2010) and $200 (2012), both were functions and
extremely clean and populated with plugins, the third a little dusty, but
operational and had the P11 CRT (2017) $50, it also had plugins.

It does come down to how badly you "need" one. Generally those parting
with the 556 want to make sure they go to a good home as well as make a few
$$$. I'd say no more than $200 for a clean working 556.

Hope this helps,
Tim



Dr. Timothy Koeth
Assistant Professor
Material Science & Engineering
Institute for Research in Electronics and Applied Physics
University of Maryland
301-405-4952 (office)
609-577-8790 (cell)



radiation.umd.edu

Amateur radio call sign K0ETH "K-zero-ETH" (formerly N2LPN)


On Thu, Aug 27, 2020 at 12:13 PM Colin Herbert via groups.io <colingherbert=
[email protected]> wrote:

Have you checked Barrytech?



OK, this entry is a bit out-of-date, but this can be a useful source of
info on Tek prices.
Colin.

-----Original Message-----
From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of
Raymond Domp Frank
Sent: 27 August 2020 16:59
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [TekScopes] Type 556

On Thu, Aug 27, 2020 at 05:48 PM, Stephen wrote:

Whaooo! No, I didn’t realize that at all!!
That is huge!! How much would it go for?

It consumes about the same power as its predecessor, the 555. Come to
think of it, you need both: The 555 is impressively tall, the 556 is
impressively wide.

I have no idea what it'd sell for. Some would pay a lot to get one, others
would for getting rid of theirs.
A friend of mine bought one complete a few years ago for a few hundred
euros.

Have a look at

Be prepared to become addicted and move to a bigger house.

Raymond