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I have tested the "A+" input to U800 and whilst there is a large DC offset there is no AC component.

That's what they look like, but definitely branded Tektronix. Another List Member gave me the right name ... RC Input Normalizer. Thanks, Dick, W1KSZ ________________________________ Sent: Thursday,

Thanks, lots of good suggestions. The IR imaging camera sounds really helpful, have to look into getting one. What I ended up doing was to separate the 15VPS from all the loads, and coincidently, or

/g/TekScopes/files/Fairchild_CCD_VideoDelayLine_PossilbleSL92104.pdf Raymond

Richard, I found what I believe to be the same part. The pins and functions are the same, but under a different part number. I don't remember if Tek had them screened or selected for critical

How quaint, but I guess it happens. I had a problem in my 485 sweep generator where a precision resistor went voltage dependent on me. Measured up just fine on a DMM, but beat Ohms law handsomely at

Pomona maybe?

That's the one. I need to find one or two to make DC Blocking Caps for my pricey HP Sig Gens. Thanks, Dick, W1KSZ ________________________________ Sent: Thursday, September 10, 2020 11:16 AM To:

Hi Dick, You may be thinking of the Tek Input RC Normalizers. They are cast metal boxes with, as you say, a male BNC at one end and a female BNC at the other. They contain in parallel, a (usually 1M)

Pomona still makes them, boxes with connectors: https://www.pomonaelectronics.com/products/boxes/boxes-with-connectors

I am looking for one of these small boxes (around 1" X 1" X 2-3") that had a Male BNC on one end and a Female BNC on the other end. Tektronix made them probably 40 to 60 years ago. What would be a

After winding up stuff day (season) at Sphere for the year, I found a stash of almost mint Tek service manuals for some of the scopes we had on for stuff day. Before I post them up to the page, I

If you've gotten the board out, I'd suggest using a hot air gun to heat the underside until you can pull it off. As for cleaning the leads, you can try a solder sucker or solder wick or both, but

I've done that ... once. I had a main board for a Radio Shack Model III computer with ONE shorted 0.1uf bypass cap out of about 50 or so. 5V at 10 amps cleared it in less than a second. Vince.

31.5 Khz sounds like something generated by the display.? You could disconnect the display power, use an external display, and see if it goes away.? Possibly a bad filter capacitor in the display

Exactly! I have such a camera for some years, it became my most efficient troubleshooting tool as soon as my nose rings the bell... and even beyond that. Recently I was checking an HP function

It looks like there is some 109 DNA in it. Cabinet, controls, some of the connectors. The 109 would do 250 ps and would not do line sync. Otherwise could be a homebrew 109. -ls-

HI all, I am out of my depth, no question but I'm going to ask and see what you guys think. I have a TDS 340A which has behaved well but now has some kind of switching artifact that makes it

Physically, tantalum drop capacitors have a lot of the characteristics of a fuse. The tantalum metal melts at a reasonably low temperature, and pops the capacitor's body, leaving a couple of bare

I'd guess that it's an instrument made for internal use at Tektronix. The unfinished rear panel (2 unused holes for GR connectors and the hand lettering support this suspicion) Also, the complete lack