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Re: Sloppy front panel BNC connector - 475
That does look like a carbon film resistor, I agree.
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--Cheers Tom -- Prof. Thomas H. Lee Allen Ctr., Rm. 205 350 Jane Stanford Way Stanford University Stanford, CA 94305-4070 On 2/1/2021 21:33, Torch wrote:
Well here it is in all it's glory: |
Re: Extracting a buggered knob grubscrew
I've never seen one. That's not the same as declaring that they don't exist, but I feel safe in saying that they certainly are rare, if they exist, in Tek scopes.
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Tom -- Prof. Thomas H. Lee Allen Ctr., Rm. 205 350 Jane Stanford Way Stanford University Stanford, CA 94305-4070 On 2/1/2021 21:30, Larry McDavid wrote:
However, I was wrong earlier saying I had not seen a tiny-size Torx. On checking, I actually have a Wiha Torx set from T1 through T10. |
Re: Sloppy front panel BNC connector - 475
Well here it is in all it's glory:
There's a hard stone-like white non-conductive core coated with a thin resistive black layer underneath the tan paint. A metal cap and lead on either end completes the assembly. And by thin, I mean I think the outer layer of tan paint was thicker. So, what's the verdict: is this a carbon composite or carbon film? I think it's carbon film. |
Re: Extracting a buggered knob grubscrew
However, I was wrong earlier saying I had not seen a tiny-size Torx. On checking, I actually have a Wiha Torx set from T1 through T10.
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So, I wonder if there are small set screws with a Torx recess. Has anyone actually encountered such a set screw? Larry On 2/1/2021 7:19 PM, Dave Seiter wrote:
I've *never* seen a Tek knob with a torx set screw.-Dave --
Best wishes, Larry McDavid W6FUB Anaheim, California (SE of Los Angeles, near Disneyland) |
Re: Extracting a buggered knob grubscrew
I've never seen a set screw with a Torx recess.
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The other larger screws that look like Phillips are most likely PoziDriv. There have been lots of good suggestions here on how to remove a tight set screw. Sometimes, when all else fails, you just gotta drill the little buggers out... Left-hand drills can be a big help with all kinds of stuck screws; you must turn them counterclockwise, of course. Larry On 2/1/2021 7:19 PM, Dave Seiter wrote:
I've *never* seen a Tek knob with a torx set screw.-Dave --
Best wishes, Larry McDavid W6FUB Anaheim, California (SE of Los Angeles, near Disneyland) |
Re: 2467B problems? Sparkles and flashing LED's
Ok, I just tried turning off channels 1 and 2 and turning on channels 3 and 4 and the sparkling is still there.If you single step the youtube video (. and ,) the dots show up at very precise places and in the readout area. The issue is most likely in the readout blanking or sequencing. Service manual describes readout processing, simplest one is during hold off. Does increasing hold-off make any change in the dots? For the sparkles, it still occurs even with all intensity controls turned all the way down, seems to decrease as the unit warms up too.Note that readout intensity knob has minimum at the mid position. All the way CCW turns off scales but cursors are full on (you can try by enabling the cursors). When you say "all the way down" is readout intensity at mid point? Ozan |
Re: 2467B problems? Sparkles and flashing LED's
Ok, I just tried turning off channels 1 and 2 and turning on channels 3 and 4 and the sparkling is still there.
I did notice when I play with the v/div and sec/div knobs, it does the sparkle thing as the range is switching then settles down. I wonder if it's just an artifact of the CPU doing it's things alongside driving the CRT that's disrupting the output to the CRT? Thinking about it, I wonder if I need to tweak whatever bias control or dial that controls CRT blanking or similar? Maybe I'm right on the threshold that allows a little of the normally unseen traces to peek through? I have had a bit of a tweak of the settings, but I need a 100+ MHz oscillator to complete all the CRT adjustments, which I currently don't have. (I currently have a gap in function gens from 60.9MHz (3325A) to 245MHz (SG504)) |
Re: Extracting a buggered knob grubscrew
I've *never* seen a Tek knob with a torx set screw.-Dave
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On Monday, February 1, 2021, 12:29:01 PM PST, Joseph Orgnero <josepho@...> wrote:
In my experience Tek uses only Torx screws on their equipment, trying to use Allen or Bristol wrenches is asking for trouble. Jose Orgnero VE7LBI -----Original Message----- From: Jeff Kruth via groups.io Sent: Monday, February 01, 2021 11:56 AM To: [email protected] Subject: Re: [TekScopes] Extracting a buggered knob grubscrew While I am sure there are many tips that others have, I found a thin hot soldering iron pressed into the iron screw socket head will sometimes add enough heat(expansion) to get things going. I have also filed cheap jewelers screwdrivers into an appropriate sized chisel point and, using friction fit, tapped them into the end of the reamed out set screw with a small hammer. This can then be grasped with a small pair of vice grips and the screw may give.YMMVJeff Kruth In a message dated 2/1/2021 2:46:57 PM Eastern Standard Time, snapdiode@... writes: They are typically 1/20" or 0.050" keys. Sometimes it's Bristol drive but if someone forced a hex key in there it's probably not a Bristol drive anymore. Unfortunately I have found no way to extract a stuck set screw of that size. You might try a 1.3mm key, sometimes they really are 1.3 and not 1.27 so you get a bit more grip. I don't know, seems random. -- Jose Orgnero |
Re: Extracting a buggered knob grubscrew
Bob Albert
I have been watching this thread and have a related problem.? The main tuning knob on my Kenwood TS-940S cannot be removed, as the set screw has a ruined hole and when I try to turn it, it's frozen.
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I don't need to remove it but I'd like to know how. Bob On Monday, February 1, 2021, 05:30:04 PM PST, greenboxmaven via groups.io <ka2ivy@...> wrote:
? Because there are two grubscrews, remove the good one that did loosen, apply penetrant to the stuck one, both on it and also down the hole of the other one. Find a good high strength bolt about an inch long of the same thread as the good grubscrew, install it, and tighten it sensibly- not too much!? Loosen and tighten it several times to "work" the bushing inside the knob. Take it easy, the bushing does flex, and that can help work things loose. I have done this many times with great results. Grub srews have a cone shaped recess on their tip to dig into the shaft. Working that loose is key to getting the screw out. ? ? ? Bruce Gentry, KA2IVY On 2/1/21 19:14, Michael A. Terrell wrote: Torx was developed in 1967 and patented in 1971. Bristol was in use during |
Re: Extracting a buggered knob grubscrew
Because there are two grubscrews, remove the good one that did loosen, apply penetrant to the stuck one, both on it and also down the hole of the other one. Find a good high strength bolt about an inch long of the same thread as the good grubscrew, install it, and tighten it sensibly- not too much! Loosen and tighten it several times to "work" the bushing inside the knob. Take it easy, the bushing does flex, and that can help work things loose. I have done this many times with great results. Grub srews have a cone shaped recess on their tip to dig into the shaft. Working that loose is key to getting the screw out.
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Bruce Gentry, KA2IVY On 2/1/21 19:14, Michael A. Terrell wrote:
Torx was developed in 1967 and patented in 1971. Bristol was in use during |
Re: Making your own TM500 containers, some surprises!
I was dubious about the talk of "junker" TM-500/5000-series/7000-series plugins, but stayed silent on the principle that a person saying that a thing can't be done should not interfere with the person actually doing it. Now, however, I am a convert: I just got a TM506 with 6 plugins installed, and one of the plugins (a DC503) had it's face stove-in, which basically destroyed one of the barrel switches and may have done other damage that I can't evaluate without completely disassembling the unit (several small pieces fell out when I was removing the plugin from the power frame, one appears to be a copper leaf spring from the barrel switch, the other escaped into the wild).
If the damage is as bad as I fear then this will be good for little more than parts, so I guess I'm up for building a TM500 test plugin (I'm not looking to get into the group buy at this point, as I have some ideas of my own about how to connect the controls to the main board, that do not coincide with Jared's design). -- Jeff Dutky |
Re: Sloppy front panel BNC connector - 475
Tom Lee wrote:
Carbon comps with metal end caps have bulges, too, so you can't always tell by sight. Crack yours open to be sure (but I'm pretty sure it's a CC).Japanese built electronics was full of them. It was cheaper than using a molded body. I have about a half million of them from a vocational electronics course that was shut down a few years ago. |
Re: Extracting a buggered knob grubscrew
Torx was developed in 1967 and patented in 1971. Bristol was in use during
WW-II On Mon, Feb 1, 2021 at 5:33 PM snapdiode via groups.io <snapdiode= [email protected]> wrote: In the 500 series, there are no Torx screws anywhere AFAIK, rather they |
Re: 7603 + voltage rails high
The +50v regulated supply is used in the +5, +15, and +130v supplies. If +50 is excessive, it can cause the problems you describe by overcoming the difference amplifiers, that is Q919 in the +15v regulator, for example. I would start looking in the +50 volt regulator.
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Dave On Mon, Feb 1, 2021 at 02:45 PM, Sparky99 wrote:
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Re: 2235 Horizontal Calibration Issue
Ozan,
I measured voltage at pins 1-2-7-8 Here are the results: 1. 4.1202 8. 4.1172 2. 5.966 7. 5.986 And finally 5. -3.3835 R751. Side A: 29.955, Side B: -3.3835 There is a slight imbalance between the 2 sides of the differential signal. Could that be corrected by touching R749 (MAG REGIS) maybe? |
Re: Help for DC503A universal counter repair
Hi Nenad, hi Stephen
I have all the digits of the display off with no input signal, with a selector on "Frequency" and the "Timing" selector on "100 us" I have on the decimal point of the third digit from the right and the "MHz" led is on, the "GATE" led flashes. While passing from one selection to another, the digits light up showing 8. What could I watch? --Cheers Attilio |
Re: Extracting a knob grubscrew
I use a small Torx bit to remove them. The Torx bits are tapered and you
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can usually find one that will fit into a striped allen screw. Press the Torx bit into the screw tightly so that it doesn't slip and further strip the hex in the screw. In general when working with set screws, always make sure that your hex bit is in good condition and it's corners aren't rounded off. If they are then grind the bit back some to get fresh corners. Also whenever you remove a set screw check it to be sure it's not starting to strip. If it is then replace it. On Mon, Feb 1, 2021 at 2:33 PM <keith@...> wrote:
Need to remove the horizontal control knob on my 576 so I can remove the |
Re: Extracting a knob grubscrew
I use lefty, counter clockwise twist drills. A tiny triangle file may work
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also. Model railroad hobbyists use the files. You may have to grind the point a tad., aldue On Mon, Feb 1, 2021, 2:33 PM <keith@...> wrote:
Need to remove the horizontal control knob on my 576 so I can remove the |
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